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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 10:22:05 AM

Title: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 10:22:05 AM
What's on the list ??

Lights In The Forest ?
Direct Direct ??

New Routes ???
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 22, 2012, 10:39:02 AM
Hmmm... Loose Lips- Reign of Fire-Turners just because-Bon Temps-Sleeping Beauty again-Starfire-Jacques wants to do the DD, and I have led the first four myself,about 25 yrs ago...lol...so dunno. Oscars Final Stand again and another lap on the RH 5.9+ there(somebody give this a name eh?), plus Oscar da Grouch finally. Airation if the opportunity comes. Pine Tree without groveling, paint the Interloper bolt pink so I can find it again, direct finish to Atlantis maybe, square up Mandrill ( last time I stepped out right then back, got the bottom part wired OK).

Any and all on the Family Wall at Shell Pond, good stuff there. Project on Total Recall Again( just P1),I've yet to get it clean.

Probably most want to complete the 11a above French Roast......uh.....Coffee Acheivers, done the FR part. Do a cleaner job of Triplicious too.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 10:50:48 AM
So that's April Tom..... ;D
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 22, 2012, 10:53:57 AM
No itz a dream, you said dream right...lol...

What are yours John?
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 11:07:24 AM
Next time up Looselips,   TR P2 of Revolt.... a TRUE gimme NH 11a, I'm not kidding.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 22, 2012, 11:09:56 AM
Ya, that was my first 5.11a in N.H. onsite. It could use some cleaning from the F1 belay to the overlap. That first pitch has two bolts, remember when it just had that funktoid cam at the start?
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 11:19:37 AM
YA- 'cause the pins fell out.. too bad . I never did it with the bolts. 9+++
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: Climber57r on February 22, 2012, 05:47:35 PM
Last season was my personal best out of 14 years. Still super thankful to everyone that was involved. This season shall be just as good. Sleeping Beauty and Ego trip are on the list...and Across the Universe..suppose to do that thing every season.. Direct Direct...well I can not be the only one that says that route got the best of me, hopefully? But it is still on the future list. Loose Lips is a personal favorite of mine. Get out and enjoy.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 07:07:02 PM
Nice- SB is so overlooked, a classic.

Western Lady is IMHO way better than Ego, just a great lead from '74
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: sneoh on February 22, 2012, 07:08:51 PM
Get in 40 days of roped climbing.  Trips to The Gunks, Shagg Pond, and The Red or Foster Falls or Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.  I am soooo dreaming.  :)
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: DWT on February 22, 2012, 07:30:24 PM
Get in 40 days of roped climbing.  Trips to The Gunks, Shagg Pond, and The Red or Foster Falls or Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.  I am soooo dreaming.  :)

40 days would be good in my book. 
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2012, 07:36:20 PM
Oh shit,,, come on !   Heather ????    Wild Women ???  Heavy Weather ???????????
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: sneoh on February 22, 2012, 11:18:06 PM
Yeah, 40 is a going to be a real stretch for me (half days at College Rock or Crow Hill and bouldering don't count in my book).  I usually get in 15 to 25, depending on weekend weather, the wife, etc.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: steveclimbs on February 22, 2012, 11:23:02 PM
Lichen delight, on a warm evening with beer waiting in the truck waiting.

steve
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: bennybrew on February 23, 2012, 06:10:20 AM
more climbing

ct cracks
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: apbt1976 on February 23, 2012, 09:24:27 AM
Just climb rock once or twice a week. I only climb ice at this point so that would make me happy. Once up north and once local to me.

Also work more than i climb so i can take the winter off to climb ice again. Also wanna extend the winter the season with a pre and post season trip to someplace colder that has ice and snow before and after us.

So climbing moderation and more work and saving.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: OldEric on February 23, 2012, 09:41:35 AM
Get all 4 limbs out of rehab at the same time.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: apbt1976 on February 23, 2012, 09:55:33 AM
Get all 4 limbs out of rehab at the same time.

I can relate but i only have three i need to worry about. You got me by one limb ;)
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 23, 2012, 09:59:45 AM
Shit- i was talking with Bob D'Antonio the other day about injuries. he had a heart attack while climbing ! Tough.  We are going to do a walking wounded group climb
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: apbt1976 on February 23, 2012, 10:14:21 AM
Shit- i was talking with Bob D'Antonio the other day about injuries. he had a heart attack while climbing ! Tough.  We are going to do a walking wounded group climb

That more than sucks. Sorry to hear about that......

A couple decades and i am sure it will be a stroke for me as i am addicted to stress!
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 23, 2012, 10:23:02 AM
He's fine, really.  After thousands of f/a's , it will take more than a couple of blocked arteries.  8)
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 23, 2012, 10:34:57 AM
Benny, Connecticut Crack is very do-able ! As if I don't have enough silly goals on my list, were I to get to Acadia this season, well, for a while I have dreamt of doing Connecticut, to Fingers on a Seascape, to the last pitch of Return to Forever. I led them all once on a trip a few years ago, but separately. Them's three fine pitches.

Come on folks, post up yer lists!
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 23, 2012, 10:44:30 AM
A poor photo I know but the face visible is about1,200' , starting at 13K and has ONE route
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: perswig on February 23, 2012, 11:21:46 AM
I recall belaying Andrei on P2 of SB, me looking at those kinda bunk pins and then that poor excuse of a flaring crack for gear at the beginning and thinking, "This is not gonna end well...". 

I did a bogus job following that pitch; rematch would be nice.  Maybe this year.
Dale
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 23, 2012, 12:30:31 PM
Hi Dale !! I had to do a rematch on that as well, we were absolutely freaking about bugs that day. A real man like Strand would probably do it in one pitch, since the gear is diff for the upper than the lower, but I haven't the guns for it. Here's a little tip though.

I don't usually power point stuff as I belay olde school off the harness and I am on doubles, so make an exception and PP the anchor. Clip it as a piece, and move up into the finger crack until you can set a good piece. Henry tells me he gets good stoppers all the way, but I am happy with small cams. Once you have a good piece or two for one of your ropes, climb back to the belay, bring yer rope gun up, pull the line through, and voila! It will end well. It's not a bad trick on ice when the next pitch is brisk right off, but of course your partner has to feel ok about the proceedure too.

The climbing is really only 10b, getting the gear in moves it to 10d. Some shweet rock up there. The first pitch you just have embrace....lol...

Edit to add: duh, if you are swapping leads you don't even have to pull the line through.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: DWT on February 23, 2012, 08:15:40 PM
I hope this isn't a dumb question?  What is power point?  What are the reasons you'd use it?  What are the advantages and disadvantages?  Are there any safety concerns to be mindful of?

Derek
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: sneoh on February 23, 2012, 08:57:07 PM
I hope this isn't a dumb question?  What is power point?  What are the reasons you'd use it? 
I am guessing to avoid a possible FF 2. fall on to the P1 anchors?
I could be totally wrong however .....
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 23, 2012, 09:02:48 PM
There are people better qualified to answer than me but, here goes. Power point, to me, is what you get when you equalize an anchor with a cordelette. Pretty much SOP today for people who belay their seconds off the anchor. I'm way olde school, so always belay my partner off my harness. I also climb mostly on doubles, and in my opinion I can do a better job equalizing and providing redundancy with them, so don't carry a lette.

Now that you are drawn into the discussion you are morally obligated to divulge your 2012 dreams. Just climbing, not whirled peas.

Yes soon, the plan is to avoid FF2. I hate those....
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: sneoh on February 23, 2012, 09:30:15 PM
Now that you are drawn into the discussion you are morally obligated to divulge your 2012 dreams. Just climbing, not whirled peas.
What a play on words!  I missed that on the 1st read! :)

Sorry for going off on a tangent here with something I have wondered about -
what would be safer a) catch a FF2 fall directly onto an equalized anchor (belaying directly off the anchor), or b) belayer catching the same fall directly 'off his/her harness' with he/her tied to the anchor with a bight of rope / a cordelette?  Assume belayer is able to catch the fall in both scenarios and do not get slammed with b).
I am thinking b) is marginally safer unless the anchor is 100% bomb proof.  Correct?  Thoughts?

Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: The other tomcat on February 23, 2012, 09:49:09 PM
Soon, I think you know every bit as much as I. Basically, does anyone other than Euros belay a leader direct off the anchor?

This gets complicated to discuss, I just tried it the other night. The underlying issue is the type of belay device. If you are using a tube type, like atc or whatever, a lot depends on whether, when your leader falls past you, you lose the "bend back". So imagine yer yanked around backwards, is your hand still bent around the device enough to arrest? Gloves become a great idea.

You must now post your 2012 dreams too, you have been assimilated...lol

Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: DWT on February 23, 2012, 10:08:03 PM
Wavelength, Bombardment, Black Lung, PTE, and Pinnacle Buttress.  Birdsnest too.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: bennybrew on February 24, 2012, 05:21:12 PM
Benny, Connecticut Crack is very do-able ! As if I don't have enough silly goals on my list, were I to get to Acadia this season, well, for a while I have dreamt of doing Connecticut, to Fingers on a Seascape, to the last pitch of Return to Forever. I led them all once on a trip a few years ago, but separately. Them's three fine pitches.

after i send ct cracks we'll see about the rest of that!  ;)
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: perswig on February 24, 2012, 05:51:02 PM
(Tomcat, that's a savvy strategy to have in the toolbox for SB and other less-than-ideal anchor setups; I've used in on ice/mixed a couple times.  This is why it pays to climb with the old guard - lots of tricks.)

Derek, that is a fine and very doable list if your rock is at all at your ice level last season.  If you like Wavelength, do Pathfinder.  Haven't done BL or PTE, but you will -so- like Pinn Butt:  clusters of pins, hip belays and single point anchor opportunities, way old-school! 

Now I'm getting excited...
Dale
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: slink on February 24, 2012, 06:39:18 PM
Red Rocks, the Gunks. Diagonal on Wallface.I would love to get through the third pitch of consolation prize ( it messes with my mind) More backwoods no guide book areas Sykes love to give directions and very little beta which makes fun climbing and no crowds. I am also in the hunt for loose lips.Ahh we can dream.
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: DLottmann on February 24, 2012, 09:20:43 PM
...does anyone other than Euros belay a leader direct off the anchor?...

There is absolutely ZERO reason to ever belay a leader directly off the anchor.

PERIOD.

Seriously, anyone reading this, do not try to belay a lead climber off the anchor.

Even the subtle movement of a belayer’s harness squeezing the belay helps dissipate fall forces. If you anchor is strong enough to belay directly off, it is strong enough for you to hang off and provide a more dynamic belay, even if using a Gri-Gri.

One last time... There is NO reason to belay a LEADER directly of an anchor.

None.

Zero.

We’re cool right?
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: sneoh on February 24, 2012, 10:00:51 PM
One last time... There is NO reason to belay a LEADER directly of an anchor.

None.

Zero.

We’re cool right?

Got it loud and clear, DMan.  I'm totally cool with it. :)
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: tradchick on February 25, 2012, 08:14:07 AM
The Watermelon route and Lily on Mt. Hor
The Great Corner on Wheeler (c'mon over Dale!)
Check out North Bald Cap and Green's Cliff
Square up with Oscar the Grouch
The Petit Grepon in August
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: strandman on February 26, 2012, 06:52:23 PM
If your talkin' the  grepon in RMNP, you better get in  line NOW.. it's way popular
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: M_Sprague on February 26, 2012, 07:50:16 PM
Tradchick, when you head to Green's, if you would like a tour, let me know and see if you can drag Ed out with you.

My dream is for my life situation to clear up a bit so I can get back up north regularly to climb with my friends and finish up some projects. Partly from having to stick closer to home, I have been getting back in to bouldering though. I would like to find some beautiful new hard line, say a V10, and get the FA before getting back to roped routes. I'll need the bouldering power for the cruxes. We have been finding all kinds of great new boulders in southern RI, but nothing quite that hard and good yet.
I threw myself at this crimpy arete and a high overhanging sloper one in the back so much today that I left them covered with blood, but it felt so good. perfect conditions :)
(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/93/18/107489318_medium_d504e1.jpg?1330304519)
Title: Re: 2012 Dreams ?
Post by: tradchick on February 27, 2012, 05:59:34 AM
Mark - I'll take you up on that offer and will pm you after the black flies are gone. 

John - My buddy in Boulder is keeping my place in line.