NEClimbs.com forum

General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: Admin Al on April 09, 2012, 11:43:10 PM

Title: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 09, 2012, 11:43:10 PM
So I finally got some time to work on the site.  :o  I have added some routes for Green's Cliff that Mark Sprague sent me this winter, added a route on Willard that Tradman asked for and started putting in the routes for Dickey Mountain over in Waterville Valley. I should finish up Dickey this week and start on the Percy Peak area routes that Brad White will be sending me.

I am also looking at adding code to put the routes on order so that they will be easier to find on the cliffs. That should keep me busy for a bit.   ::)

Enjoy...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 10, 2012, 01:02:49 PM
Just finished Dickey Mountain and am downloading stuff from Brad White for Percy Peak. I still have some time between software development gigs and the weather isn't too good, so hopefully that will be up this week.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: slink on April 10, 2012, 08:32:30 PM
Al
 You put "Subversive behavior" up twice with two different descriptions.If I remember correctly the second one is right.Did it in the early 90s so I could be mistaken.Crazyt would know as I think he did the FA.Need to get out there again some day as the rock is incredible.
 Jim
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: slink on April 10, 2012, 08:44:27 PM
Mt Dickey Toe Crack 5.5
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: dpen on April 10, 2012, 09:37:47 PM
Looks good Jim.

Dave
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 10, 2012, 11:47:23 PM
thanks for the heads up JIm. I'll check it out tomorrow afternoon. not surprised that i made some errors. lots of data entry over the past 2 days...

Al
 You put "Subversive behavior" up twice with two different descriptions.If I remember correctly the second one is right.Did it in the early 90s so I could be mistaken.Crazyt would know as I think he did the FA.Need to get out there again some day as the rock is incredible.
 Jim
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: punxnotdead on April 11, 2012, 08:41:52 AM
dont forget the stuff on north bald cap that Jack and I added. plus the stuff mike lee added (bubbalee)

Thanks for the hardwork Al. It truly is appreciated!!!!!

More to come elsewhere.........

Bill Keiler
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 11, 2012, 10:52:59 AM
Bill:
I think the Bald Cap stuff is there, check it out...

Jim:
I think I fixed the Dickey stuff now.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: M_Sprague on April 11, 2012, 03:06:29 PM
Thanks, Al. I should be getting back on track with the new routing out at Green's and Owl's this year, so hopefully I will have some more information for you. My first goals are to finish up a couple projects and clean and put an anchor on the top pitch of Stewarts Crack.  I'll post up in the conditions thread when the areas are looking good for visits, re. bugs and wetness.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 11, 2012, 03:35:36 PM
thank YOU Mark... I sincerely appreciate your getting me information.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: punxnotdead on April 12, 2012, 10:09:08 AM
NORTH BALD CAP

THE APRON:
walk in to the obvious low angled apron of rock in the middle of the cliff. Hike around the left side until you see an (obvious?) Arete. 
P1:  Follow the arete proper with natural gear and one bolt to a blue sling and rap ring on a pine tree.  5.5, 120'

P2 :  climb straight up to a natural belay at 180'.  5.4.

P3 :  climb up slab to tree ledge. 5.2, 50'

FA: Bill Keiler, Jack Dorsey: 11/13/10

Hike up through the woods directly above to access the next climb.

THE ARETE:
P1 :  climb up the obvious arete on the right past a bolt and natural gear to a 2 bolt ring anchor.  5.7, 120'

FA: Bill Keiler, Jack Dorsey: 11/13/10
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 11:53:46 AM
DONE Bill, thanks...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 11:54:33 AM
starting to put up the climbs on Crag Y now. more to come, as well as GPS and better directions.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 11:55:22 AM
SLINK: hope it's OK to use the picture of Toe Crack. if not please let me know. Who took it, and who was it?
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 11:56:12 AM
Posted Percy Peak climb and area.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: mopowers on April 12, 2012, 12:20:31 PM
Great work Al!

Whats up with the lack of first ascent info for Dicky. MtProject does not have any either nor does a mini guide i have seen. It would be great to know some history of the place. 
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: strandman on April 12, 2012, 12:45:36 PM
Mark- your gonna need a trencher for the upper part of Stewart's
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: frik on April 12, 2012, 12:45:49 PM
Percy Peak? Jeesh, you may as well include Lac Lyster - which is quite good BWT!
 
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: mopowers on April 12, 2012, 12:56:10 PM
Quote
you may as well include Lac Lyster - which is quite good BWT!
VERY GOOD!!! A big cliff with lots of variety of grades and styles. Even has its own version Thin Air but better.

Quote
your gonna need a trencher for the upper part of Stewart's
John- What do you think the FA of Stewart's was like? Did Jim just dig in with his fingers and climb the dirt and bushes or do you think he cleaned out each jamb as he went?

Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 04:03:21 PM
Whats up with the lack of first ascent info for Dicky. MtProject does not have any either nor does a mini guide i have seen. It would be great to know some history of the place. 

I don't have that information and the (intentionally nameless) person who gave me the guide did that deliberately.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 04:05:43 PM
Percy Peak? Jeesh, you may as well include Lac Lyster - which is quite good BWT!

good idea but that's in Canada, so it's a bit out or my range...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: M_Sprague on April 12, 2012, 04:34:38 PM
Great work Al!

Whats up with the lack of first ascent info for Dicky. MtProject does not have any either nor does a mini guide i have seen. It would be great to know some history of the place.

Tom Bowker is too modest.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 12, 2012, 05:06:34 PM
Tom Bowker is too modest.

OOPS...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: strandman on April 12, 2012, 07:44:09 PM
Quote
you may as well include Lac Lyster - which is quite good BWT!
VERY GOOD!!! A big cliff with lots of variety of grades and styles. Even has its own version Thin Air but better.

Quote
your gonna need a trencher for the upper part of Stewart's
John- What do you think the FA of Stewart's was like? Did Jim just dig in with his fingers and climb the dirt and bushes or do you think he cleaned out each jamb as he went?
Lac Lyster is really good, but talk about bugs !!!!

I think Jimmie did Stewarts around '75 ? I did it in '93 and it was pretty bad. But i am almost sure we rapped off the now dead tree at the top. He may have finger jammed in the dirt, i hope to see Mr Dunn in couple of weeks and will see if he remembers.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 16, 2012, 10:07:39 AM
Just finished adding another 15 routes to the Crag-Y section [whew] and there's still more to come!!! I have to get out there soon...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: M_Sprague on April 16, 2012, 03:42:33 PM
I will definitely have to check out Crag Y sometime this year.

Al, how hard would it be to add a star system, even better, one where we all can give our opinion, so we get some sense if people think a route is a piece of crap or a NE Classic?
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: strandman on April 16, 2012, 06:55:51 PM
i think the hardest line a Y is 12B ?  There is an arete there Mark  -- HO MAN
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 16, 2012, 07:17:43 PM
Al, how hard would it be to add a star system, even better, one where we all can give our opinion, so we get some sense if people think a route is a piece of crap or a NE Classic?
'
I have been  thinking about that & I think it is doable with not too much effort. the big thing on my list now is to make the routes come up in order, left to right or r-t-l.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: neiceclimber on April 17, 2012, 12:35:20 PM
Not a huge fan of the star system. I feel it tends to coral people mindlessly to certain spots, as in only the 4-5 star routes get repeatedly climbed. I felt Mellor hit it right with his simple + if the climb had merit, perhaps a thumbs up or down if you really feel the need for rating. I just assume that since you've taken the time to include routes on this site that for the most part they are worth climbing.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 18, 2012, 11:07:24 AM
busy morning, WHEW

I just finished adding in all the info I have on Crag-Y. lots of stuff out there. I always thought it was all hard, but apparently that's not really the case. time for me to make a pilgrimage.

also popped in two additional routes for Cathedral, Burning Bridges and Warlock.

enjoy...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: Admin Al on April 18, 2012, 11:09:36 AM
I just assume that since you've taken the time to include routes on this site that for the most part they are worth climbing.

not necessarily... routes are here so folks can find information about them, not because I think that they are good or bad. I would never want to only include what I think are the good ones.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 18, 2012, 05:21:30 PM
I like my star system.  I feel that I have a high tolerence for adventure so a rout needs to be really brushy, really loose or stupidly bolted to not get a star. 1 star and you definatly should check it out as it is tons of fun all the way up to 5 stars for as good or better than anying of the grade that I have experienced. So I guess what I am getting at is that if most of the routs @ an area get at least some form of a star hopefully it will get folks out on stuff they would never get on  when the star system is limited to just the 2 or 3  best climbs @ an area.   No stars at all and folks often chicken out and only do the ones everyone knows about. They que up like lemmings rather than try a trad climb that they know little or nothing about.  Spurt is different. Anything with bolts and they will give it a shot.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: David_G48 on April 18, 2012, 06:26:15 PM
Tradman
What is spurt? Being as old as I am I think that I might know what it is.
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 18, 2012, 06:28:38 PM
Sport Climbing. I call it spurt climbing because of the ammount of time spend on the ground belaying or waiting your turn followed by a spurt of climbing...
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: David_G48 on April 18, 2012, 06:32:36 PM
I guess that is different from the spurt that I remember as a youth ;).
Title: Re: New Routes Added
Post by: strandman on April 18, 2012, 06:53:23 PM
Anyway- Y is great.. lots of good routes. It cand be a bit frightening on first visit because it;s pretty complicated... She Ra is awesome ... as good as if Dogs at Band M..3 s ;)star 10+