NEClimbs.com forum

General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: apbt1976 on April 19, 2012, 08:41:34 AM

Title: Bombardment..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 19, 2012, 08:41:34 AM
What is the deal with the bolts to the start of Bombardment at Cathedral?

All we had was a old book and it was unclear what the true start of the climb was. I am now pretty sure after taking a look on rappel and then on MP that it was the white dike just over the roof?

Still that three bolt slab was a bitch what is the info on that?

Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Admin Al on April 19, 2012, 09:11:46 AM
no bolts on Bombardment ever - with the exception of the (abortive) attempt to add an anchor & save the trees.

the climb starts up on a small ledge, just left of an obvious roof and climbs a short unprotected slab to a tree. the start of the "real" climb is the dike to the crack just behind the sappy tree.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: alclimbup2 on April 19, 2012, 10:12:10 AM
Al , while there are no bolts on the true Bombardment route, at the beginning 5.6 runout part, there are now a series of bolts (saw them for first time last year after not doing that route for about 10 years) at the beginning, just left of the 5.6 runout part, up blank slab, goes straight up, instead of veering right a bit at the beginning to keep it at 5.6

Someone had told me who put those bolts up but I forget who that was, I think they said it was 5.10, perhaps it is a seperate route somehow?, cause was surprised it had not been chopped so the intent cant be to be part of bombardment, it was kinda disapoinitng seeing that there, in my opinion

who else knows the history of those bolts?
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 19, 2012, 10:28:14 AM
It is a 5.10..three bolts and you can get gear in the diagonal crack to protect the exit moves. I believe George Hurley put those in about 3 years ago. It is kind of a fun alternative to the start of Bombardment. Pretty stout for a short little route, but good moves.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: alclimbup2 on April 19, 2012, 10:55:51 AM
thanx old school, thats right they did say it was George, I guess its ok, specially since he must have put them up on the lead, just was such a shock seeing those shiny new bolts after not doing that route for years, hope you are healing up fine 
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 19, 2012, 11:19:58 AM
Ow man i really hope i did not start something.... It was not my intent, it doesn't seam like it will start a shit storm but one can never tell with the interweb. Can we try and keep it the topic mellow as i am really trying to make friends at this point and not the other way around.

Anyway that is exactly the info i was looking for. Thank you all very much for chirping in on this guys. Def a slippery little son of a pitch that's for sure!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Jeff on April 19, 2012, 11:46:20 AM
"Son of a Pitch"-- LMAO--I like it--may use it sometime as a route name!! As for slippery, it is indeed; I've done it 3 times now for grins over the past 2 years and only made it once without at least one  of those bolts catching me! Fun little variant!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 19, 2012, 01:20:08 PM
Oh no worries apbt1976....no shit storm here! You are certainly not the first to ask. The move after the last bolt is thin! Pretty fun variation for sure Jeff.

Healing up well my friend. It is a pretty slow and painful process, but no question I will be out there in the next few weeks. I sent Standard route on Whitehorse last Sunday...but don't tell anyone...I am not supposed to be out there yet!! :-X

Grammy
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Jeff on April 19, 2012, 05:37:59 PM
Grammy, I have no doubt you'll be back at it soon, and as far as ratting you out,  :-X lol! After all, I'm the guy who, when my surgeon told me at 6 months post hip replacement surgery that I'd be safe to ski again, said "I know", to which he responded "when did you start" and I answered "you don't want to know, but I've got about 5 weeks under my belt". That said, brother, don't push it too hard and set yourself back --it's just not worth the hassle, and wives don't give you ANY sympathy if you do!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 19, 2012, 07:43:08 PM
Sound advice Jeff!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Admin Al on April 19, 2012, 07:52:08 PM
...and wives don't give you ANY sympathy if you do!

LOL
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: DLottmann on April 19, 2012, 09:21:01 PM
thanx old school, thats right they did say it was George, I guess its ok, specially since he must have put them up on the lead...

Ummm, why must they have been on lead? Chances are they werenít. I put up a route with George above the North End a few years ago, The Liger, and he bolted that on rappel.

I think many of us would prefer bolts where they are needed vrs. bolts where you can stand and drill... just my $.02
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: dpen on April 19, 2012, 11:27:02 PM
I like Son of a pitch, but the original is cool too.

I've done SOAP twice.  Once on a hot kinda greasy day and I think i tested that second or third bolt too.   A second time on a drier day it was really nice but still had my attention for little pitch..

Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 20, 2012, 06:16:49 AM
Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough

Getting there Dave! A bit of a setback this week for some reason? I think I may have pushed it too hard at PT Wednesday....very sore and tender. But soon enough...you up for it? 
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: alclimbup2 on April 20, 2012, 06:36:51 AM
Dave: I was assuming George would put something like that up on cathedral on lead, but ok, I should not assume anything, sure it is a fun 30 foot challenge, it just looked so out of place after not being there for a decade or so, I take it back, I take it back
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: strandman on April 20, 2012, 09:54:29 AM
Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough

Getting there Dave! A bit of a setback this week for some reason? I think I may have pushed it too hard at PT Wednesday....very sore and tender. But soon enough...you up for it?

Sack it up Grammy  :D Possessed is waiting.  !

George gets a rap bolting pass from me.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: alclimbup2 on April 20, 2012, 10:17:06 AM
I figured you would chip in on this John, man getting soft in your old age, just kidding
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: DLottmann on April 20, 2012, 01:51:44 PM
There is another cool climb just above it that makes a nice alternative to Bombardment. You climb the 2nd pitch of Pleasant Street then up and left is a short headwall with a few bolts protecting some good face climbing... 5.10+ I think... not sure if its in the route section here, Iíll look....

Nope, not in the route section. Al you should ask George for the details of that route... I think he put it up 2 years ago...
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 20, 2012, 09:01:36 PM
Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough

Getting there Dave! A bit of a setback this week for some reason? I think I may have pushed it too hard at PT Wednesday....very sore and tender. But soon enough...you up for it?

Sack it up Grammy  :D Possessed is waiting.  !

George gets a rap bolting pass from me.

LOL...OK OK John...I'll sack up!!!!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: terminusnout on April 21, 2012, 04:52:15 PM
SOAP is a much harder and sooooo much more direct variant to the og start of bombardment. All the moves from getting off the ledge to getting to the tree are full value 5.10 NH slab. The best part of it is being able to continue past the old belay and hit the anchor tree with a 60 meter as opposed to one short pitch and a medium length one.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: DLottmann on April 21, 2012, 05:04:33 PM
The best part of it is being able to continue past the old belay and hit the anchor tree with a 60 meter as opposed to one short pitch and a medium length one.

You can do this easily using the original start, and itís what I do every time now. Starting at the ground climb that one move finger crack, up and right to the horizontal crack, drop the #2 with a shoulder sling, up the 5.6r dike, next piece up in Bombardment crack and you should have almost no drag and 40+ rope left over at the tree...

You know for the 3 days that there was a bolted anchor at the top you could actually rap to the ground with 1 60m rope without stopping at that tree 50 feet up...
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 21, 2012, 08:08:26 PM
You know for the 3 days that there was a bolted anchor at the top you could actually rap to the ground with 1 60m rope without stopping at that tree 50 feet up...

 ;)
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: strandman on April 22, 2012, 01:05:55 PM
Is this the dark slab ?? i swear it used to have bolt bitd   ???
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: DLottmann on April 22, 2012, 05:14:42 PM
Is this the dark slab ?? i swear it used to have bolt bitd   ???

If youíre talking about the new 3 bolt Hurley route no, itís very clean, lighter slab, directly above the start of Pleasent St.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 23, 2012, 08:25:50 AM
That bolted rap anchor would still be there if the (right) person installed it. Perfect example of  NC bolting ethics. Who you are means much more than what you do :P
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: xcrag_corex on April 25, 2012, 07:23:11 PM
that 3 bolt alternative is a blast. did it a couple times last year..... totally worth it :)
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: WanderlustMD on April 25, 2012, 08:58:19 PM
Grammy,   sounds like you're almost ready for move or lose it, well, soon enough

Getting there Dave! A bit of a setback this week for some reason? I think I may have pushed it too hard at PT Wednesday....very sore and tender. But soon enough...you up for it?

Glad to hear you are getting better, Grambo!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 26, 2012, 09:11:16 AM
Glad to hear you are getting better, Grambo!

Thanks Matt! Can't wait to get back out there! This is torture!!!
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: icejock on April 27, 2012, 08:12:55 AM
The route was put up by George Hurley, Joe Cote and a Dr. Kaan. The route is called Age before Beauty and was named by George's wife. Would make a good trivia question, don't you think? 
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on April 28, 2012, 07:46:17 AM
The route was put up by George Hurley, Joe Cote and a Dr. Kaan. The route is called Age before Beauty and was named by George's wife. Would make a good trivia question, don't you think?

+1
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: kobrien87 on May 03, 2012, 08:44:32 PM
Regarding bombardment and not wanting to start a new thread... I've heard its possible to climb the first pitch of Starfire and traverse to the Bombardment crack?  How close are they and is this just a walk over on the ledge?  Not too familiar with Lower left wall, and it wasn't super clear to me after looking at the topo in Websters guide. 
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Admin Al on May 03, 2012, 11:57:54 PM
kobrien87:

yes you absolutely can do this. it's not exactly a wide ledge, but it is easily traversed. there is, however, no gear so you should be very careful as you do it. then you can belay at the tree, your second can follow, again carefully. I just find it easier to climb the little slab, tho it is a bit dicey.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on May 04, 2012, 07:22:27 AM
kobrien87:

yes you absolutely can do this. it's not exactly a wide ledge, but it is easily traversed. there is, however, no gear so you should be very careful as you do it. then you can belay at the tree, your second can follow, again carefully. I just find it easier to climb the little slab, tho it is a bit dicey.

+1 (agreed) very little pro between the two routes with the exeption of the crack that marks the start of Wester Lady. The slab is a lot of fun and even after 20+ years of climbing it, it still gives the heart a jump! 
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Erik N on May 04, 2012, 07:56:25 AM
Climbing the start to Western Lady and then stepping left into Bombardment is also fun and is still only 5.8.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Erik N on May 04, 2012, 07:56:50 AM
Climbing the start to Western Lady and then stepping left into Bombardment is also fun and is still only 5.8.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on May 04, 2012, 09:18:09 AM
Climbing the start to Western Lady and then stepping left into Bombardment is also fun and is still only 5.8.

I did that variation a couple of years ago and I agree Erik! Great gear and really fun moves, Western Bombardment I think it is called?
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: steveclimbs on May 05, 2012, 11:25:32 PM
Hey Chris,

On the traverse, just after you step up, several feet on the ledge is a piton.  It is usually covered over, but if you look closely you will find it, and it could be useful so you can protect from a big fall if you slip on the rotting pine needles.  Hey have you sent the climb to the right of star fire yet?  (Once upon a climb, I think.)  It is really fun and thin, and you can join up with the top of starfire, a thin crack.

steve Frechette

And there is no way the Hurley climb above the start of bombardment is 5.10, it is more like 5.8 slab.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on May 06, 2012, 05:07:17 PM
Hey Chris,
On the traverse, just after you step up, several feet on the ledge is a piton.  It is usually covered over, but if you look closely you will find it, and it could be useful so you can protect from a big fall if you slip on the rotting pine needles.  Hey have you sent the climb to the right of star fire yet?  (Once upon a climb, I think.)  It is really fun and thin, and you can join up with the top of starfire, a thin crack.

steve Frechette

Yes I know where that piton is and yes I have climbed those routes to the right. Very spicy but very fun!!! When are you coming back East partner?
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: sneoh on June 01, 2012, 09:18:27 PM
Just added to the "other" website -
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/age-before-beauty/107636420
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Girard on June 01, 2012, 09:53:12 PM
Am I not supposed to do that? I'm new to the community so I don't know all the rules yet. =D
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: sneoh on June 01, 2012, 10:03:18 PM
I think it is fine, newer routes are often 'cross referenced' at this site.
You don't mind, do you, Admin Al?
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Girard on June 01, 2012, 11:02:58 PM
I just saw it in the new guide book then went out and climbed it today. I wanted to add a tick but the route wasn't added there yet.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on June 02, 2012, 08:00:27 AM
Good seeing you out there yesterday Girard. Fun route isn't it?
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Girard on June 02, 2012, 10:10:11 AM
You too Chris! Yeah Bombbardment was great, it's a perfect line.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on June 02, 2012, 01:11:31 PM
You too Chris! Yeah Bombardment was great, it's a perfect line.

Very fun indeed! I was testing the shoulder on Ego Trip's first pitch down there below you guys...it hurt, but it passed! This morning...no real noticeable swelling or pain...so a step closer to full recovery. We then went over and ran up the Saigons! Great evening despite the bugs!  :)
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Admin Al on June 02, 2012, 05:09:19 PM
no worries...
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: Girard on June 03, 2012, 02:45:13 PM
You too Chris! Yeah Bombardment was great, it's a perfect line.

Very fun indeed! I was testing the shoulder on Ego Trip's first pitch down there below you guys...it hurt, but it passed! This morning...no real noticeable swelling or pain...so a step closer to full recovery. We then went over and ran up the Saigons! Great evening despite the bugs!  :)

That's good to hear! If it every stops raining we'll get out there some time, haha. I got a lap in on the Saigons as well, only a little wet.
Title: Re: Bombardment..
Post by: old_school on June 03, 2012, 04:47:38 PM
That's good to hear! If it every stops raining we'll get out there some time, haha. I got a lap in on the Saigons as well, only a little wet.

Yah...second pitch was a seeping mess. We rapped off the top of the first pitch and then continued our climb at the Moat!  ;)