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General => Climbing Gear Q & A => Topic started by: apbt1976 on April 20, 2012, 08:46:48 am

Title: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 20, 2012, 08:46:48 am
What are peoples thoughts.

I have tried the Mythos on and they fit my feet awesome. I have terribly battered injured feet so comfy shoes matter to me more than most.

On the other hand being new to climbing i have worn a beginners shoe 5-10 Coyote and not so beginner shoe LS Katana. I wish my dogs could handle the Katanas but they destroy my achilles. They climb like a dream in comparison to my Coyotes, so much so it makes me want to suffer the Katanas out however i just can't do it.

For micro and small edges and smearing how do the Mythos and TcPros compare to each other. I really want something stiff that edges well for the small stuff you start to find around 5-10 b and up.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: slink on April 20, 2012, 09:07:06 am
Been climbing on Mythos for years and they are a great all around shoe. I think with battered feet find something that feels good.Most shoes now have good rubber and any brand will work well under 5.12.BLASPHEMY :P
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 20, 2012, 09:18:34 am
Been climbing on Mythos for years and they are a great all around shoe. I think with battered feet find something that feels good.Most shoes now have good rubber and any brand will work well under 5.12.BLASPHEMY :P

Thanks Slink.

I agree anything will work. On the other hand my Coyotes feel like chopped liver after being given a taste of rib eye with the Katanas.

I can climb anything in my coyotes that i could wit the Katanas however the Katanas def give me extra confidence in my footwork and i feel like i can hold onto much small features with ease than i could in the Coyotes.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: JBro on April 20, 2012, 09:28:55 am
Mythos don't fit my feet properly so I've never used them, but I know a lot of people who love them. My main climbing partners wear them, and they are primarily slab and face climbers. But I've also climbed with plenty of people who wear them crack climbing, and also another partner who wore them for the Gunks. I guess what I'm saying is if they fit your feet well, it's probably going to be hard to find a better all around shoe for you.


 
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: OldEric on April 20, 2012, 09:53:19 am
First step is to try both on and see how they FEEL TO YOU before dwelling on theoretical differences.  In theory the Mythos will be a more versatile all around shoe that should adapt itself to your foot better then the TC Pro.  On the other hand the TC Pro is going to be very durable and if your forte is standing on time edges all the time it will be better at it. 
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: fresh on April 20, 2012, 09:57:33 am
you'll do fine edging with mythos on slabby to vertical terrain, but you'll have a harder time with overhanging boulder problems/sport routes. for smearing they are the bomb. lots of hard routes have been put up with mythos, into the 13's for sure.

that said, the TC Pro is definitely a better edger. but, edging is more about crunching your toes and raising your heels anyway. sure, you'll edge better with the TC Pro's than with mythos, but the difference that good technique makes is orders of magnitude more than the difference a more aggressive shoe makes. just make sure you're focusing on the right things :-)
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 20, 2012, 10:22:49 am
I do agree focusing on the wrong thing will not solve anything and if anything only put a temporary band aid on it. I assure you that is not my game.

I have a small cunundrum on my hands. I have there Katanas that can and will be returned to EMS. I have tried on the Mythos and they fit like well broken in glove right outa the box. I have heard the TCPros edge a bit better and are also a great all around shoe. Only problem is i can not find any on a shelf local to me to try on and see how they fit on my feet. When i am north i always climb to till all the stores that do stock them close  and miss out on that option. 

Really i am just trying to figure out if it is worth ordering the TCPros just to try them on and see how they fit my feet when i already know the Mythos fit perfect. If they are that much better a shoe and also fit  my feet i would say it would be worth it to play the mail order size game?

Thanks for the help!
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: sneoh on April 20, 2012, 10:25:32 am
Mythos (or at least the old ones) were easy on my feet and comfy for me but I switched to Miura and Katana Lace for more edging power/confidence.  That said, for you, a shoe that fits you well and you feel comfortable with should be more important than the more subtle differences among shoes.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 20, 2012, 10:35:56 am
I kinda see it this way. I really do not want to put 4 pairs of shoes on my credit card. Two sizes each shoe...

The Mythos i know fit my feet very well and with my foot problems probably makes the most sense? If anything they will always be a great go to all day trad climbing shoe to have that i am sure i will not regret having?

I guess when am in the right place at the right time and have the opportunity to try on other shoes right off the shelf i will fond a more aggressive shoe that fits my foot. Without getting hung up ont he shoes doing the work for me i def did notice the Katanas perform much better than the Coyote on stuff in the 5-10b and up range. Below that for me i agree any old shoe will do, who knows maybe even at that level any shoe should still do?
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: Admin Al on April 20, 2012, 11:03:57 am
can't compare, cause I haven't used Mythos. however I love my TC Pro shoes. got them at the end of last season & they really climb everything very well. FWIW I like hard friction & thin face the best.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: DGoguen on April 20, 2012, 01:05:46 pm
Climbed with Mythos for years, then Miuras, now TC pro.
Mythos are great, but I have really wide feet and they seemed to stretch the most of the three for me. Not good. That was the main issue for me and they didn't fit very well at the end of their life. A couple pair per season.
Got the TC pros on clearance so the price wasn't as crazy. I think they edge better and are definitely more durable. We'll see about the stretch with my Fred Fintstone feet.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: frik on April 20, 2012, 03:56:09 pm
If you do end up heading towards the Mythos, be forewarned that they will stretch alot, probably close to a half size.This is especially troublesome for high end edging and smear jobs. Get them as tight as you can stand, which could be trixy considering your podiatary concerns.  Can't comment on other pumps.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: sneoh on April 20, 2012, 04:27:08 pm
If you do end up heading towards the Mythos, be forewarned that they will stretch alot, probably close to a half size.This is especially troublesome for high end edging and smear jobs.
All true and the reason for me to switch to Miura and Katana Lace.  I have narrow feet and the Mythos used to stretch side-to-side so much that edging becomes a problem after 6~9 months.  Mythos is still not toe-down, right?  I prefer a little toe-down in my shoes.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: ELM on April 20, 2012, 05:38:39 pm
I have not worn the Mythos but I love my TC pros. They edge very well and are super stable. Last year I laughed my way up a crack because they felt amazing and worked so well. The ankle protection was a big point that drew me toward them, on sale of course. You need to really train that tongue not to roll on you at first. I will say though that they are not the best for me on slab. I like to be able to really get my foot flat and have as much contact as I can get and I just can't get the TC pro's flat enough. For slab I use...yes 5.10 coyotes...they get flat really well and are super comfey after a resole. For you other TC pro users...what rubber are you going to use when you resole?
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on April 20, 2012, 10:21:13 pm
I have had Mythos. Loved them! Now I have TC Pros. I really like them alot! The stiffer toe box is nice to my abused toe joints, and the extra rubber makes them even more comfy. They seem to slab climb well and edge amazingly. I have done some crack climbing in them, and am impressed.  Longevity? Not sure yet. Only had em for a month
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: Stickyfingerz on April 21, 2012, 01:21:46 am
What are peoples thoughts...

I have tried the Mythos on and they fit my feet awesome...

I wish my dogs could handle the Katanas but they destroy my achilles. They climb like a dream in comparison to my Coyotes, so much so it makes me want to suffer the Katanas out however i just can't do it...

For micro and small edges and smearing how do the Mythos and TcPros compare to each other. I really want something stiff that edges well for the small stuff...

Get a hold of a pair of TC Pros, they are essentially a trad version of the Katanas. They use the same last, but they've relaxed the heel rand, decreased the toe volume, stiffened them up considerably, and they cover your anklebone for wide cracks. Size them with a slight toe curl for a performance fit, as they will stretch a little.

The Mythos are super soft, and round in the toebox. Good for thin cracks and friction, but not a good choice for wider cracks or edging. Having said that, it's ultimately all about the fit of the shoe and your foot. If they fit you better, that's more important, get them. They are unlined and will stretch a lot, at least a full size.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 25, 2012, 08:09:52 pm
Freaking new local gear store that has been all gung ho about ordering me anything i need anytime contacts me 3-4 days after i place an order to tell me they can not get the TcPros in my size until Mid summer. Before said there retail store moved into my local mall i ordered a sleeping bag from them with a free 2nd day shipping promo. It ended up taking over 2 weeks to get the dam bag. Had i known i woulda payed the shipping as i needed the bag for a trip. The best they could do was give me like 10% off and really did not care i felt dicked around or if i ever purchased with them again. Needless to say i think i am done buying from them!!

I am just gonna order the shoes online from like Backcountry or REI so i can return them with ease if they don't fit. How are people sizing the TcPro and Mythos  in comparison the their street shoe. I wear a 11.5 US men's shoe. Although one foot is a whole half size smaller give or take?

Thanks for the help again.....
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: gaiagirl on April 25, 2012, 11:03:47 pm

"I am just gonna order the shoes online from like Backcountry or REI so i can return them with ease if they don't fit. How are people sizing the TcPro and Mythos  in comparison the their street shoe. I wear a 11.5 US men's shoe. Although one foot is a whole half size smaller give or take?"

Looks as if maybe the 11.5 does not exist.  Zappos.com also has them for the same price, believe it or not.
Here's a link to them on amazon. 
http://www.amazon.com/La-Sportiva-Mens-Climbing-Shoe/dp/B007KG7QDG
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on April 26, 2012, 09:02:29 am
I wear a 10 1/2 - 11 street shoe. I bought a 42.5 TCpro, it stretched out in 3 days. I can tighten them or loosen them to my needs.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on April 26, 2012, 09:18:59 am
Please don't give me negative karma <grin> but I didn't warm up to the TC Pros. I found the XS Edge rubber to be long wearing...but shitty on slab. They slipped all over the first pitch of Ego Trip and Seventh Seal...gave the heart a jump for sure! Then I tried them on Chris's 12b/c project at the Hump and couldn't seem to get them to hold an edge (a very stiff and insensitive shoe). Could be pilot error...but my 5.10 Verdes and Gallieos stuck like glue. I have to admit that they were hands down the most comfortable shoe I have ever tried on...right out of the box I was standing in them all day. Construction seems good but the tongue design sucks...I found what you have to do is just push the tongue all the way down and then pull it back out...not sure why they were designed this way...but to each his own. They are awesome in cracks however...by far the most comfortable to jam and torque in anything 3" and up! Regardless, I prefer my Miuras over the TC's anyday.

The mythos never fit my foot. Wish they did because I have heard great things about them. My feet would cramp up in them, but they have a huge following and have for years. Just my 2 cents FWIW.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 26, 2012, 09:55:00 am
The only other LS rock shoe i have experience with is the Katana. Like i said i have two different size feet by almost by a half size. My running sneakers are a 11.5 and i wear LS trail runners. The Katanas i bought in a size 43... they felt good in the store, def on the tight side but i figured they would stretch and i did not want them to end up overly loose. In the end i wore them for two days and my achilles were killing me!!! Granted i have achilles problems on and off but rock and ice climbing never seem to bother it. I wonder if it was the shoe or the size, i may have sized them waaay to small?

Being i am ordering a zillion pairs of shoes as i also need new trail runners i think i am gonna add the Pythons to the quiver  with the Mythos and TcPros,  from what i read the Pythons are a very nice all around shoe also? I tried the cobras on in the store and the heel did run a bit high and maybe in the end would end up bothersome to my achilles?  Otherwise they felt real good. I guess the Cobra is a improved version of the Cobra?

Anyway time to throw a G on the credit card for a couple weeks sigh.....
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: frik on April 26, 2012, 10:36:24 am
I would be very wary of ordering Mythos online if you haven't fitted them first. I like the boot, but the stretch factor kind of screws up the whole process.  They don't come close to their potential if they are not snug.   
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 26, 2012, 12:00:51 pm
I would be very wary of ordering Mythos online if you haven't fitted them first. I like the boot, but the stretch factor kind of screws up the whole process.  They don't come close to their potential if they are not snug.   

Just got back from REI and figured some sizing out. Well at least on the Mythos? Was also able to try on the Miura Vs and get a size on those also. I am gonna do my best to use size comparison and reviews on Backcountry and various other blogs to order the right size. If i get em form Backcountry and i can they can all be returned if they don't work. It a real fucking pain in the ass!!

Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: apbt1976 on April 27, 2012, 06:27:12 pm
Got both the Tc Pros and the Cobras in the mail today.

Hands down at least on my feet the Tc Pro is the clear winner. Man is this shoe cozy and from what i can tell edging around on random stuff in and around my house a edging machine as others have said. I am a 11.5 in casual shoes with one foot being a half size smaller at size 11 even. The shoes fit perfect on my big foot and on my small foot they feel fine now but i am worried they may stretch and end up big. As is the laces at near my ankle only have like 3/4 inch between them. If i press around the toes i may have a tiny tiny bit of extra room in from of my big toe. My other foot the toes have a slight crunch and the ankle is spread apart plenty if the shoe stretches.

Thoughts on size?

I kinda wanted to keep the Pythons also as they are a whole different animal and pretty sweet them self. The fit was a little funky on my low volume foot with extra leather on the top of my foot. Otherwise they fit great and felt great on. Maybe if i sized them down a size the upper would fit better? Anyway i have a feeling the Tc will end up getting 99.9% of my use so why have another pair of shoes around that are not perfect. Plus i put $500 of shoes on my credit card and needed to return 2 of the 4 pairs as i just don't have it like that....

Anyway thanks for the help and i cant wait to get out this coming week and give these thing s a test drive!!!
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on April 28, 2012, 09:52:48 am
good luck with the TC's bro. See you out there this spring!
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on October 26, 2012, 10:27:23 am
Soooo. update.

The Tcpros were a great shoe.  BUT..... the 42.5's I had (I have 10 1/2- 11 US feet)  stretched so miuch this summer that I had to wear socks with them.  Also, the rand on each side of the ball of my feet completely delaminated.  NOT impressed!  Brought them back to EMS to exchange for a Miura. But the Miuras dont fit my feet well (My second toe is just as long as my first toe).  I could see them working really well for pockets etc.  Also, I got 42.5"s the miuras, but they definitely dont stretch as fast as the TCpros. 

Soooo.  I am going to bring the Miuras back and exchange them for the time tested Mythos, which fit my feet really well and feel great in all types of climbing (I dont do much super steep climbing anymore).

Bill
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: sneoh on October 26, 2012, 10:47:36 am
Bill, sorry to hear about your TC Pro.
The Mythos stretch a lot with use (of course you know this already).  How do you compensate for that?
The Miura Lace and Miura VS fit very differently.  Did you try both?

Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on October 26, 2012, 11:44:26 am
I will check out the other miura this weekend. I will also check out other companies too.  I really like the toe box of the mythos (not so pointy). I do understand that stretch is an issue with most shoes.  I did like the way the tcpros fit, but they kept stretching?  Plus, the fact that the rand delaminated  so quickly is a real downer for shoes that are so expensive.

Not an easy choice, but thankfully EMS is really good with their return policy.

Bill
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: sneoh on October 26, 2012, 04:00:40 pm
I have Scarpa Vapor for my indoor shoe (more toe-down, very sticky rubber) and they do not seem to stretch  much at all.  They do not fit my feet as well as Sportiva but good enough for playing around indoors.
Outdoors I have the Katana Lace which is better at edging ..... but I too see quality problems after about 8 months of use. Both soles are delaminating a bit at the same spot on the inside edge!  Makes micro edging a touch tricky so I have resorted to toe-pointing more to compensate.  Of course this accelerates the wear on the rand ..... I am going to try to get them resoled after outdoor season winds down.

I know Grammy likes Scarpa shoes!
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on October 28, 2012, 08:02:54 pm
Went and picked up a pair of Mythos size 42.5. They felt just like the pair I had 8 years ago! Im glad I went back.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 29, 2012, 10:07:18 am
I know Grammy likes Scarpa shoes!

Yah buddy!
Good call on the mythos bro...you would have been unhappy with the TC cheapos...I mean pros. Overpriced, over rated and the rubber sucks...both soles and rand ( which continues to pull away from the shoe).  ???
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on October 29, 2012, 11:19:27 am
Grammy, I did have the TCPros and returned them for all the reasons you stated. Now I have $40 to spend at EMS.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 29, 2012, 12:02:49 pm
Grammy, I did have the TCPros and returned them for all the reasons you stated. Now I have $40 to spend at EMS.

Sweet!!!!  :D
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: Jeff on October 29, 2012, 04:49:41 pm
Grammy, I gotta say that I found the TCPros just fine and sticky on everything on Found Ledge in July, as well as on Rapid Transit, Interloper (P1) in September and Can You Believe It, with Smear, 2 weeks ago. I know what you mean about rand delamination (I've seen a bit  :( ) but I find the soles plenty sticky for my ability level. 8) I haven't notice much stretch but I didn't buy them really tight in the first place--my old dogs don't like really tight shoes!
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: Admin Al on October 29, 2012, 08:36:00 pm
...you would have been unhappy with the TC cheapos...I mean pros. Overpriced, over rated and the rubber sucks...both soles and rand ( which continues to pull away from the shoe).

I think that the rubber is plenty sticky. I've done lots of thin face and hard slabby stuff this past year and felt it was excellent. the delam is starting to happen, but it's not bad. they didn't stretch on me at all. I like 'em...
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 30, 2012, 10:32:25 am
Glad you guys have found the rubber to be good Jeff and Al. I have to respectfully disagree with you. you both climbed with the Tradmasters in the past so perhaps there is not much difference there in the feel of the rubber and fit? I have climbed primarily on C4 or XSgrip and find it to be a much stickier and confidence inspiring purchase. Some people really like the shoes...I simply am not one of them.  ;) they are good crack shoes, are comfortable and seem to breathe pretty well. The tongue design sucks, rands are too thin and bonded poorly and the craftsmanship is terrible for a $180 shoe IMO.

To each his/her own   :)
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: sneoh on October 30, 2012, 10:58:10 am
For rubber, XS Grip 2 rules but I do not know if it is durable or not.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 30, 2012, 11:14:37 am
For rubber, XS Grip 2 rules but I do not know if it is durable or not.

so far so good on my Instincts...a FULL season under them and very little signs of wear. They are well made shoes.  ;) I would imagine that the xs edge (on TC pros, miuras and now Katanas) will last a bit longer as it is less sticky and a much harder rubber which is what enables them to hang on thin edges and gives the lateral/torsional support in cracks.

I still have my TC's but will only use them guiding on easy stuff and on some crack climbs where I find they really excel and are comfortable. I have had them out 4-5 times and they look like I have used them all season.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: Jeff on October 30, 2012, 03:25:07 pm
you're right Grammy, I've climbed a lot in Tradmasters, and had them resoled with C4 (both pair); I find the new TC rubber just as good, maybe it's my extra bulk giving me more gription  ;D (or flexible ankles, or fit, or....) who knows-- that's how these companies  sell so many shoes.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: punxnotdead on October 30, 2012, 07:19:13 pm
I just can't understand why their rands would delaminate. And to see that the tension strip ends just below it really pissed me off. 180$ for a shoe that overstretched with the before mentioned manufacturing problems, that is a rip off in my book. At least I know the mythos are good (wish they still made boreal vectors) and will probably stay with them.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 30, 2012, 07:35:17 pm
I find the new TC rubber just as good, maybe it's my extra bulk giving me more gription  ;D (or flexible ankles, or fit, or....) who knows-- that's how these companies  sell so many shoes.

 ;D
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 30, 2012, 07:36:13 pm
(wish they still made boreal vectors) and will probably stay with them.

OMG...those were the BEST shoes ever!! Why did they ever stop making those???
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: Jeff on October 30, 2012, 10:46:51 pm
Some of us think the original Sportiva Megas were "da bomb"-- I wore out 2 pair, with 2 resoles each-- then the Synchros fit my feet great-- two pair of those--also discontinued--can anyone say "planned obsolescence"? :-\ 
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: old_school on October 31, 2012, 07:21:08 am
Some of us think the original Sportiva Megas were "da bomb"-- I wore out 2 pair, with 2 resoles each-- then the Synchros fit my feet great-- two pair of those--also discontinued--can anyone say "planned obsolescence"? :-\

I too loved the Megas....and the synchros were an unbelievable shoe. Actually, I think it was a pretty close race between the synchros and the Vectors. Two very different shoes and feel, but they performed equally well in all situations. Those Megas could edge on atomic particles...couldn't they? What an amazing face climbing shoe.
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: strandman on October 31, 2012, 10:41:52 am
(wish they still made boreal vectors) and will probably stay with them.

OMG...those were the BEST shoes ever!! Why did they ever stop making those???
Vectors were second only to the great Mega (with new rubber of course).. Just superb shoes.
TC's $180 and delam issues ? Really that super sucks

Hard to find but i like the Red Chili's and even harder to find Acopa legend
Title: Re: Tc Pro or Mythos..
Post by: mechanicalchris on December 06, 2012, 09:14:34 pm
I got TCs to replace my worn Mythos but I didnt take to them. I got my Mythos resoled and let visitors use the TCs.