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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: SA on February 12, 2013, 07:40:15 AM

Title: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 12, 2013, 07:40:15 AM
I had loaned this photo, a few years ago, to a girl working on a climbing movie. It popped up a few days ago, on the internet, and got me thinking about my lack of experience BITD.

This is a photo of a 1st ascent I did, with a few guys from the HMC, in 1967; only one year after I started climbing.  It is the South Ridge of Mt. Wallace, in the Bugaboos. There were 4-5 steep rock pitches, getting to this ridge, and we hadn't taken ice axes. There was no pro on the ridge, and in hindsight, we all were lucky nobody took the big slide.

I vaguely remember being worried about the exposure.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: Admin Al on February 12, 2013, 07:45:18 AM
wow - great picture, and definitely a great adventure. yes - you were very lucky. and since you guys were apparently roped together, a fall might have been catastrophic for all.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 12, 2013, 07:55:45 AM
A lot of those HMC guys learned as they went  ;)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 12, 2013, 07:58:03 AM
I totally agree.

I remember having those thoughts , at the time, but I have also seen many similar photo's taken by our experienced alpinist,

here in the Northeast.

At my age, I wouldn't do this type of thing today.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 12, 2013, 08:23:23 AM
Nice Steve.
On my first trip to the mountains, I went to the East ridge Wolfs Head in the Wind Rivers. We figured it's only 5.5, it's easier than Thin Air for Gods sake, and we'll pitch it out, take our time and work it out. We arrived at the summit block at midday just in time for a spectacular electrical storm. I remember it like it was yesterday, after thirty years. Some of the best lessons are hard won I think.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: Admin Al on February 12, 2013, 09:14:00 AM
Some of the best lessons are hard won I think.

++++
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: lucky luke on February 12, 2013, 10:03:57 AM
I had loaned this photo, a few years ago, to a girl working on a climbing movie. It popped up a few days ago, on the internet, and got me thinking about my lack of experience BITD.

lack of equipment or knowledge, I can't understand.
Traveling on this arrete, in a sunny days, without signs of recent snow storm, look more amasing for me.

The step look like very well done, but we are far, you have a rope...soif someone fall, you can fall on the other side. It look like to me a second or third class snowfield on a ridge. I don't see corniches. If the climber know the ridge and someone did it before!!!

With a lot of experiences, one can decide that climbing with tools will make you slower and make you more in danger on the ridge. although I will prefer to have crampons and tools for at least one member of the party, the leader.

It is not a lack of experiences because you are in an exposed situation, what is the real danger here? and the way to protect your life??? 
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: top-rope-happy on February 12, 2013, 10:04:43 AM
wow - great picture, and definitely a great adventure. yes - you were very lucky. and since you guys were apparently roped together, a fall might have been catastrophic for all.
Would jumping opposite of ridge work?  So if lead falls right of ridge, 2nd jumps to the left of ridge.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DLottmann on February 12, 2013, 10:42:21 AM
With a lot of experiences, one can decide that climbing with tools will make you slower and make you more in danger on the ridge. although I will prefer to have crampons and tools for at least one member of the party, the leader.

I would love to see a roped group with only the leader wearing crampons and using an ice axe... pure awesome...
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DLottmann on February 12, 2013, 10:44:15 AM
Would jumping opposite of ridge work?  So if lead falls right of ridge, 2nd jumps to the left of ridge.

That’s the general idea, though using a ice axe to self-arrest could really shorten how far down the ridge you must fall before the rope catches you, reducing the risk of injury in the fall... so as has been mentioned most modern climbers would be holding an ice axe in this kind of terrain...
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 10:50:09 AM
Awesome photo Steve. Did you guys at least have crampons?

@top rope happy:
Yes, that does work, I actually did that (once...) when descending a climb in Chamonix. We had done the North face of La Tour Ronde a classic moderate route, and were descending the SE ridge, still short-roped together. I was in front, and my rope mate stumbled off the side of the ridge at a pretty exposed spot. He yelled, and I looked over my shoulder, he was starting to roll, and I wasn't sure he was going to be able to arrest. Since he was behind me, I didn't think I could get myself set up in time to slow the fall. It was a really easy decision, and seemed to be made very quickly, I just hopped off the opposite side of the ridge and arrested about 5 feet below it. The rope dug down a little into snow on the ridge, I can't say I even felt any kind of a tug, but where we were was not super steep. Turns out the rope did actually stop him though, so I'm glad I did it, as he probably could have yanked me off with him. I climbed back up and poked my head over, and he was lying face down in the snow, cursing like a sailor because he was so jacked up on adrenalin, and super pissed at himself. He said, afterwards, that he tangled his feet with his crampons, and just tripped.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 12, 2013, 10:55:11 AM
Maybe it's too late but before it turns into another safety argument cage match.
OP
Dumb things you did when you were young and inexperienced.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DLottmann on February 12, 2013, 10:57:16 AM
JJ, great story. I’ve always wondered how it would be if you had to pull this save on a corniced ridge, and the falling climber was going down the non-corniced side... THAT would be exciting!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 11:35:31 AM
I'd say that story qualifies... :D
 I didn't even know the guys last name. English guy. We met in the Bar National, (English climbers' hangout spot in Chamonix) compared notes on what we wanted to climb, found that climb in common, and met the next morning for the first Midi telepherique.
Never having climbed together, had no clue as to each other's ability. Turns out, he wasn't too good at walking downhill in snow.
I'd say that qualifies as dumb!

Even dumber, I first started my climbing career using a goldline rope I removed from the back of the maintenance truck at my High School, tying in on a bowline on a coil, then graduating to 1" webbing tied into a swiss seat as a harness. We would go top roping on no name crags in the woods, taking turns giving each other hip belays. We figured out that is was better to walk down to take your turn to climb up, as lowering the other guy hurt too much.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 11:46:20 AM
Only Picture I have of him, the guy closest to me, climb is in the background.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 12, 2013, 12:58:09 PM
I didn't take too many pictures that day, but these are the wool knickers I was wearing for the "lunchtime break".
I was was with an Englishman as well. I see a trend here.
He said the knickers made me look like " Ghastly Rubberface" whenever I mentioned Gaston Rebuffat as an alpinist to aspire to... guess he didn't care for his neighbors.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: frik on February 12, 2013, 02:20:34 PM
I did way too many stoopid things to post here....
plus i want to hear more of Luke's thoughts
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: mopowers on February 12, 2013, 03:00:29 PM
Wool Knickers! wow, how old are you Dave?

When i was 14 i saved up and bought a rope, ATC and harness from the Campmor catalog. I convinced two friends to go climbing with me and had my mom drop us off at the crag for the day. We all soloed up the most obvious route in our sneakers until we found an anchor. We then took turns rappelling down with the one harness.

Later that summer my buddies got their own harnesses, another rope and i got some nuts and hexes. We made it up three pitches to the base of the Great Corner at Wheeler. It was there i realized i had no idea how to tie two ropes together for the rappel. One of my buddies did some sailing so he tied the ropes with a square knot, no backup on the tails. It held.

I also consider every ice route i have climbed as pretty dumb.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: top-rope-happy on February 12, 2013, 03:56:33 PM
When I was 10 or so, we used to live in a big city where hugh apartment buildings were side by side.  We used to play soccer on roof top and once in awhile, ball will fly over to other buildings.  I'd  jump between roof tops to retrieve the ball.  It must have been 100 feet drop or so.  I wouldn't do it now, even if I was on belay.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DLottmann on February 12, 2013, 04:32:31 PM
I started climbing at 15 at Mill City Rock Gym and started working after-school at EMS Salem. I had bought a basic rack, some hexes, nuts, a few cams, and a 50m 11mm rope. At 16 I read a R&I article "10 classics under 5.10". Lakeview on Cannon was featured.

I started skipping school with who ever I could talk into skipping to go attempt it. I would show them how to belay at the start of the climb.

I hadn't yet heard of Pawtuckaway, Rumney, Cathedral, or Whitehorse. Lakeview seemed like a good first trad lead. It took 3 attempts, 3 partners, 2 times getting off route followed by 2 heinous bushwhacks, and one whip (not me) and lots of passing climbers shaking their heads to finally get that route bagged that summer.... it was awesome...

I try to remember how little I knew, and that we all start there at some point when I see 16 year old helmet-less kids climbing on Canon (luckily not often these days)...

I also epic'd the next year on Whitney-G after getting so dehydrated I was hallucinating (OD'd on electrolyte powder). My partner was in eighth grade, I was 16, I had met him at the climbing gym. I led the last pitch placing 7 or 8 pieces of gear in a state of delirium... when he arrived at the top he asked me why I hadn't clipped any of the pro into the rope...   :o   I had simply been so out of it I didn't realize... I remember the anchor I had us on was quite sketch as well... probably closest I've been to dying...

One small epic in Red Rocks when I was 17 and had my dad belaying me up some 5.8 crack tied to a boulder (no harness)...

Around 18 I started getting a bit smarter ;)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 06:09:06 PM
Here's me in my wool knickers, Chouinard harness, plus koflachs, SMC Rigid crampons, you can actually see a SMC camlock dangling in front of my harness, not shown, the Simond Chacals I'm drytooling with. The mantle I'm about to do was a thrash of epic proportions. It was either get it done or take a nasty swinging fall onto a bowl shaped ledge. Down climbing was not an option. But what the hell? Back then we bounced, right? Now i'd just make a big hole in the ground. No bounce left.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 12, 2013, 07:17:46 PM
NOW your talkin' JJ

Wool knickers were an upgrade for me.. and I looked damn fine in them.. they gave way to lycra when I met Coach Niland
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 07:35:08 PM
OK, John, this one's for you...
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: WharfRat on February 12, 2013, 07:57:30 PM
There was the time that i got lost on my way to see the Dead in Highgate VT. I had a car full of girls ripping tubes out of a three foot bong tripping our brains out with every know controlled substance known to man aboard.

Somehow i just turned around and drove back through. Pretty sure i would remember if we had gotten in trouble ;)

Many many many more i could share but that is just a glimpse. Plus this is supposed to be about climbing right!

Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 08:17:24 PM
Good point you make there, the OP didn't say anything about climbing...
This could take a serious turn for the worse.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: neiceclimber on February 12, 2013, 08:52:23 PM

Would jumping opposite of ridge work?  So if lead falls right of ridge, 2nd jumps to the left of ridge.

I believe many call this the Fairbanks belay. Have never actually used one, but on several occasions have started up and down ridges and cornices knowing this was better pro than pickets.

While I've had many dumb exploits the one that sticks out the most in my mind was trying to skinny ski tuckerman ravine. Junior year in college a friend decided that their grandparents place in Jackson would be a good place to spend a january weekend boozing it up. A third of the group raced x-c for 16 or so years and the others were newish to the sport. Long story short around 4 or 5 am after many hours of beer, scooby snacks, and  some extreme "skiing" someone wondered if one could skate ski to the bowl. So after a trip to the local  breakfast joint and raiding the houses liquor cabinet we struck off. We skated to hojos sometime around mid morning to find a few people lamenting that it was very dangerous in there and a ranger that thought we were crazy and in no shape to trudge on through the day. With the help of  some liquid courage, lo and behold we found ourselves booting just below the head wall. At this point the ski boots stopped purchasing the icy base and one friend took a big slide to the valley floor, skis in hand! 3 of us pushed on left to the rocks between the chute and the head wall and kicked out a platform. One slipped while putting his ski on and took a beautiful half the bowl slide while his other ski sat next to us. My friend and I were the last two remaining, so we set off traversing to the chute, stuck turns and traversed back over To the headwall and then back over to the chute with both of us making it to the floor unscathed. We all enjoyed a few more pulls off the bottles and set out for home. At some point on the sherbie I hit a rough patch and in one fell swoop put my knee through my ski, snapped a pole, broke the opposite binding, blew out the plastic on my skate boots, and had to crawl back to the car.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 09:16:07 PM
Great stuff. I will admit, I first read your post as skinny skiing, as in, you know, sans vetements. ( For Luke) , Which instantly conjured up all kinds of memories of being young and inexperienced. ;D
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 12, 2013, 09:44:32 PM
Wow, a lot of great stories.  Good read.

JJ - loud Lycra, Sportiva Kendo, Smith Rock.  Great stuff.  All "all the rage" when I started climbing at the age of 29.  So sorry, no memorable young and dumb story to share.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 12, 2013, 09:48:26 PM
I'm waiting for Ken Reville to throw down, he has some CRAZY stories. (Bus ride?) One shared one, if he checks in...Remember how we taught belaying for the Outing Club?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JChepes on February 13, 2013, 09:21:37 AM
Thanks for the good stories.  I'm on injury reserve and squeaking out a laugh or two really makes me feel a bit better. Keep them coming please.
My quick story involves Loon Mountain and some hallucinogens.  Got to the top and had to relearn how to ride again after a few years of experience.  A non-repeatable offense that's for sure.  The ride home in a snowstorm was the crux.  Star Wars anyone?  High school never really produced many good decisions on my part.
The tin cans at wildcat were always quite the thrill.  Get in them on a windy day and they would produce quite the pucker. Had some good times on that hill. The retired one at the Moat gets a good luck rub every time I'm there.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: lucky luke on February 15, 2013, 02:03:54 AM
I had loaned this photo, a few years ago, to a girl working on a climbing movie. It popped up a few days ago, on the internet, and got me thinking about my lack of experience BITD.

Quite amasing place to be.

Still don't understand why it is a lack of experience...

and any relation to mt wsashington?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: crazyt on February 15, 2013, 12:41:17 PM
Nice Steve.
On my first trip to the mountains, I went to the East ridge Wolfs Head in the Wind Rivers. We figured it's only 5.5, it's easier than Thin Air for Gods sake, and we'll pitch it out, take our time and work it out. We arrived at the summit block at midday just in time for a spectacular electrical storm. I remember it like it was yesterday, after thirty years. Some of the best lessons are hard won I think.
Talk about understatements. I saw the pants you wore that day.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 15, 2013, 01:26:19 PM
Talk about understatements. I saw the pants you wore that day.
Ha, that's funny. I remember showing them to you. You wouldn't touch them, like they were bad voodoo.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: lucky luke on February 15, 2013, 01:45:57 PM
Nice Steve.
On my first trip to the mountains, I went to the East ridge Wolfs Head in the Wind Rivers. We figured it's only 5.5, it's easier than Thin Air for Gods sake, and we'll pitch it out, take our time and work it out. We arrived at the summit block at midday just in time for a spectacular electrical storm. I remember it like it was yesterday, after thirty years. Some of the best lessons are hard won I think.
Talk about understatements.

I can understand that Dave take too much time to climb the route (take our time and work it out)...in a mountain. That he didn't know and see the first sign of a thunderstorm, that he didn't know how the high and low pressure is moving in that particular area.

 Nothing like that in the post of steeve. Yes it is exposed, but there is step cut in above, he was with a women who make film and climbed for five years and other guys too. There is no snow on the rock and it was a sunny day without wind.

The problem is that Dave said, long time ago, don't climb!! and Steeve ask, as an understatement, why is it a lack of experiment to have a beautifull sunny day in that kind of area. One promote climbing and the other discourage people.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JBro on February 15, 2013, 04:04:25 PM
(http://fast1.onesite.com/thq.com/user/setokaiba/4d469ff5ecd85e22d163c6b70602d27d.gif?v=60025)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 15, 2013, 05:14:03 PM
Don't Climb
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 15, 2013, 05:29:11 PM
Leaving Camp V on the Nose ???
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 15, 2013, 06:43:21 PM
Looking down on Camp 6.
Don't climb here. You will be killed.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 15, 2013, 07:30:30 PM
Lucky Luke,

I suggest you read my original post again. There was no girl on that climb in 1967. I loaned the photo to a girl, 2 years ago, who wasn't even born when the photo was taken.

The guys on the climb; including me, had very little climbing experience, and the fact that we didn't take ice axes, is an indication of our poor judgement. If you look at the photo carefully, you will notice that on the left side, there is a vertical drop, and if the snow on the right started to slide, we would of been in trouble. In fact, I'm not sure an ice axe would of helped. A self arrest on bare rock, is hard to do.

I could post plenty of "dumb" pictures of BITD, but I don't have the equipment or ambition to bother.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 16, 2013, 10:08:02 AM
Looking down on Camp 6.
Don't climb here. You will be killed.

Close - last time I was there, it was getting kinda dark
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 16, 2013, 04:13:51 PM
I hear you there. It got dark four or five times on that adventure. Ha
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: lucky luke on February 16, 2013, 09:09:31 PM
Lucky Luke,
In fact, I'm not sure an ice axe would of helped. A self arrest on bare rock, is hard to do.

I heard about some route that finished on a snow ridge. And it was normal not to bring ice tools. I saw the vertical drop and think about herman bull, sumiter of nanga parmat i think, who felt on a corniche. Nothing like that in that picture. 

I am still thinking that it is not a mistake. And I don't think that I overestimated your quality as a climber even when you began. i appologize if I use your comment in a wrong way.

I just want that more people will be able to see those spectacular climb safely. If someone think that trainiing and bringing more euipmen can save is life, I will be very happy...

if they climb, not take the lyon head trail...   
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 16, 2013, 11:07:55 PM
Nice Steve.
On my first trip to the mountains, I went to the East ridge Wolfs Head in the Wind Rivers. We figured it's only 5.5, it's easier than Thin Air for Gods sake, and we'll pitch it out, take our time and work it out. We arrived at the summit block at midday just in time for a spectacular electrical storm. I remember it like it was yesterday, after thirty years. Some of the best lessons are hard won I think.
Ahhh.... Wolf's Head.Cirque of the lightening rods. I've got my own story on that "5.5". Ha! I can only imagine yours'!
Remember Warbonnet smartpig?
Crazzzieee St.Elmo's FIRE. Like THIS IS IT THE ROPE IS WIRE I"M ABOUT TO VAPORIZE electrical phenomena.
First and hopefully last time I've ever been zapped.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on February 17, 2013, 08:44:22 AM
Ken and I went to the same school back in the day (me '79-'83), were both active in the Outing Club.
For belay training before going on a climbing trip, to give a good simulation of catching a fall, we came up with the following:
There was a fire escape on the side of the infirmary on campus. We rigged a top rope anchor off it, then a separate pulley that had a second rope. We lifted and rolled a steel manhole cover over to the bottom of the fire escape.
We tied both ropes (at least one was a Goldline) to the manhole cover, used one to hoist it up.
The other was the belay rope, manhole cover was "the climber". The belayers, using a hip belay, would take up slack as the cover was raised. The belayer would catch announced falls, and lower the cover, but would also have to catch an un-announced fall, with a couple of feet of slack. They wore belay gloves, but I'd say about half of of them got rope burns or rash on their sides from the rope.
Made perfect sense at the time, but seems pretty sadistic in hindsight!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 17, 2013, 04:00:33 PM
LOL, really amusing story.  Back when men were (not very smart) real men, and hip belays were de rigueur! 
I bet (though never done one myself), by their nature, hip belays produce soft catches.  They might just mount a comeback on that account! :)


Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: eyebolter on February 17, 2013, 04:28:08 PM
I've done one hip belay catch of a leader fall.  It was on a short angling 5.2 that my friend had previously climb unroped, so I didn't anchor as he was leading for practice placing nuts.

I ended up higher on the wall than he did, but I did not let go!

What a moron I was.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 17, 2013, 07:33:51 PM
The other was the belay rope, manhole cover was "the climber".
That would be a hard one to explain in Accidents in NA mountaineering.
Why the lifeless belayer had the word "sewer" embossed in the back of their head. Ha
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 17, 2013, 08:38:56 PM
hat's wrong with the hip belay ?? i will continue to use it for some Tr's  .. and esp to impress young chippies
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 17, 2013, 08:42:10 PM
Hip belays score wimmen.

Who'd a thunk?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 17, 2013, 09:01:31 PM
"Everything old is new again" :)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 17, 2013, 09:04:20 PM
John Long- " everything is so you get laid,, everything"
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: terminusnout on February 17, 2013, 10:51:13 PM
The first time I ever topped out on the Mordor Wall I rapped from over the fourth pitch roof back down to the sidewalk ledge and pulled the rope out of my rap device before getting in on a daisy to the anchor. Total bonehead move, I think the reason this happened is that when you have both of your feet on the ground after rappelling the first thing you do is pop the rope out of your device, Im just quite happy I didnt lean back.

you live you learn, you die you most definitely dont, someone else does.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: smartpig on February 18, 2013, 12:33:06 AM
Ken Reville: "Ahhh.... Wolf's Head.Cirque of the lightening rods. I've got my own story on that "5.5". Ha! I can only imagine yours'!
Remember Warbonnet smartpig?
Crazzzieee St.Elmo's FIRE. Like THIS IS IT THE ROPE IS WIRE I"M ABOUT TO VAPORIZE electrical phenomena.
First and hopefully last time I've ever been zapped."

[/quote]

Oh yaha, Cirque of the Lightning Bolts.

Navigating on dirt roads via Big Sandy at night: after the glow of the pipe, Reville turned to Cunningham and said, "Oh, shit, fork in the road, which way to go?" BLAM! FLASH of light.  "That way," pointed Cunningham with his finger.  Reville matted the rental car right, fish tailing the curves in the road and bounding madly over the rip rap bumps at suspension breaking speed.  The two Hunter S. Thompson wanta-bees had begun their day from Logan Airport in Boston.  Drove from Denver to Big Sandy, hiked into the Cirque at night, roped up by sunrise, and climbed some route that looked good on the left side of Pingora all in one frenzied push.

Freaking out in the tent in the middle of the night as lightning bolts blasted all around us. Rapid fire, alternating, black and blinding flashes illuminating Ken's anguished face and stand-up hair. We were certain we would be found as a pile of crispy black carbon mixed in with the melted remains of our green tent and blobs of climbing hardware.  Longest half hour I ever spent with Ken.

Baling Wolf's Head in a lightning storm, arbitrarily retreating off the middle of the ridge, to make a bee-line to the valley floor we were forced to rap from one found manky pin backed up by a rp.  The knife blade wiggled and could only be loaded in one direction.  I drew the short straw and Ken rappelled first.  If memory serves me: I elected not to tie into the anchor while Reville descended. I stared wide eyed at the suspect set-up, looking for any signs of movement that may give me an instant of time to yell down to Ken to unweight the rope and go solo.  I had no guardian to warn me other than blind faith.

....and of course the Warbonnet on another trip that Ken refers to!!!  Ken is on the last lead to tag the summit via a groove (aka a conduit water course) that terminates at a notch just right and 40' below the top. About 20' before Ken reaches the intersection of the groove and the summit ridge, the granite rock begins to buzz, crack, and pop like a short circuiting transformer.  Freak out!!!!!  Ken, who thanks be to St. Elmo, is on 5.3 ground, yells down to Tom Roth and I to take him off belay as he scrambled licitly-split up and over to the other side of the mountain and well below the exposed summit and groove.  Meanwhile, Tom and I being pelted by rain, madly pull off our packs and pile up the rope to stand on as insulation, strip ourselves off most metal hardware, and slacken our tie-ins to the anchor, being sure to not touch the rock with our hands, then wait for the imminent strike.  We were certain we would experience the end of our lives there in one blinding and booming blast of electricity surging skyward from our mortal brains!  Ka-Blam! The lightning blasts the very top of the Warbonnet 80' above us.  We feel the tingly exchange of ions through our feet and all our hair stands on end. Moments later we hear Reville yell, "rope's fixed! BATMAN THE FUCKING ROPE!"  Hand-over-hand Tom and I, each in turn, go up and over the mountain to join Ken on the other side.  We then rappel about 800' down into unknown terrain to scamper away happy to have escaped the wrath of Thor with our lives.  BAM!

A bit of irony: Ken is an electrical engineer!  OHM!!!!!!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 18, 2013, 08:14:38 AM
That's awesome Jamie. Hands sweating just reading it.
Here's mine.
As mentioned earlier we were inexperienced and slow on Wolfs Head. Just below the summit we got a view over to the oncoming swirl of blackness headed our way. It looked like the witches castle from OZ. We too decided to arbitrarily rappell the south face. On the first rappell off of a natural horn, Roger started down, and as I'm standing there the horn started clicking loudly. I remember thinking, huh, that's weird. Then the full rack I was wearing bagan to spark and jump around, uh oh. Blam. I was blown or jumped into the air ten feet covered in light landing back on the ledge. I was on fire, and not in a cool Alicia Keyes kind of way. I was deaf, had no feeling from the waist down and my legs were smoking. I was screaming, couldn't here myself scream, but ran out of breath. I remember thinking, O.K. calm down or your gonna die., then thinking, shit, I might already be dead, I've never been dead before.Ha. Then the obvious, where's Roger. He went all the way to the knots in the end of the doubles. He had been hit also and lost the use of his arms while on rappell. He was out of sight and sound as the storm was still raging. I thought he was gone. I lay there as the sleet built up on me for about forty five minutes. I figured I wasn't going to make it through the night, it wasn't scary, but felt like the end of a Movie, some sense of finishing the story. The shot had blown the sole off my left E.B., entered up my left calf, arched across my inner thighs about three inches below my " belay device" and exited out my right thigh. Looked about medium well done. The storm passed and I heard Roger yell that he lost his arms but they were coming back. This gave me hope and I began to rub my lower legs and began to get a tingle in my feet. I finally rapped down to him. He had landed in an alcove and his hands were burned pretty good. We did several raps to the valley from all the gear we had, cams whatever. The cloud ceiling in the valley was low and the last rap to the ground was in the clouds. We had friends in the valley and the look on their face when we appeared was shocking. A couple of days later we walked into the clinic in Jackson Hole.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 18, 2013, 09:23:08 AM
This thread has really turned into a trip down memory lane.

It could even turn into the type of thread, which you see regularly on Supertopo, about the "good old days."  I know that I could write down, at least 10 cases where things got real bad, up on a climb.

Like the time, when I was in my early 20's.

 I decided to solo Thin Air, just before a thunderstorm was rolling in ----and lost the bet.  I continued up anyway in a torrential downpour, with lightning.

 You can bet  that I was pretty focused, concentrating on every foothold on that climb.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: old_school on February 18, 2013, 10:10:57 AM
It was about 1980 maybe 1981...had just started ice climbing. My buddy Jason and I had just finished an ascent of Odell's and my feet were frozen solid. I had recently purchased chouinard VB liners that were too big and every time I kicked my feet in, the VBL's would shift forward an inch at a time and before long had curled my toes into a knurled frozen fist. Worried about the feet we decided to glisade down the escape hatch which was a bit firm for the time of year. No one ever told me that it was a good idea to take the crampons off first...needless to say...about 75 yards down the thing at about 40 MPH I hooked a heel and performed one of the most spectacular and acrobatic descent/ death throws ever experienced in the White mountains. Nothing broken but a few tree limbs and my pride. While I gently came to rest in the rocks below I discovered that the violent starfishing and tripple gainers (that I so artfully performed) displaced most of what was in my pack at the time including one of my grivel Patrick Edlinger tools...somewhere in the snows above. It was a long, quiet and dark hike out.  :-\
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 18, 2013, 11:21:06 AM
This thread has really turned into a trip down memory lane.

It could even turn into the type of thread, which you see regularly on Supertopo, about the "good old days."  I know that I could write down, at least 10 cases where things got real bad, up on a climb.

Like the time, when I was in my early 20's.

 I decided to solo Thin Air, just before a thunderstorm was rolling in ----and lost the bet.  I continued up anyway in a torrential downpour, with lightning.

 You can bet  that I was pretty focused, concentrating on every foothold on that climb.

yes Steve, but did you finish up Pine Tree as usual ???
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: lucky luke on February 18, 2013, 11:44:50 AM
This thread has really turned into a trip down memory lane.

It is where I saw the noun sense.

On one hand you telling people that amasing story

and on the other you said: don't climb when it is wet, don't climb when there is wind, don't climb with him he his crazy....

I was been caught by heavy rain in pinacle gully. It was raining so hard that I had to stop my progression, without resting on the rope, because I can't see the next hole in an onsight. And...if I never trained, I won't be able to safe my life (I don't call the rescue and we went to the tipi top of washington.

Weather can change brutaly and every body can be caught.

don't train for that, it is going to save your life and we can't ridiculise the stupid climber (sarcastic)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 18, 2013, 12:28:01 PM
I discovered that the violent starfishing and tripple gainers (that I so artfully performed) displaced most of what was in my pack at the time
Damn brother, that's some funny stuff.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: smartpig on February 18, 2013, 12:48:16 PM
That's awesome Jamie. Hands sweating just reading it.

If your hands are sweating Goguen, then I just had a total body emersion bath reading yours.  Geez Louise!!!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: old_school on February 18, 2013, 12:50:14 PM
Damn brother, that's some funny stuff.

 ;D
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: smartpig on February 18, 2013, 01:24:35 PM
Who'd a thunk?
[/quote]
hat's wrong with the hip belay ?? i will continue to use it for some Tr's  .. and esp to impress young chippies

Hip belays score wimmen.

Roger Damon and Dan Brodien, life long buddies, who still live in St. Johnsbury, VT, show cutting edge technique and technology in 1963.  Me, on the other hand, was stuck in a pot hole in Joshua Tree in 2009.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: smartpig on February 18, 2013, 01:33:40 PM
Old pics in photo above: Roger Damon and Dan Brodien, life long buddies, who still live in St. Johnsbury, VT, show cutting edge technique and technology in 1963. 

Me, on the other hand, was stuck in a pot hole in Joshua Tree in 2009.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 18, 2013, 03:03:25 PM
C'mon old timers, you know you have one your holding back.
Afraid to face "The director of training"? :-\
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: slink on February 18, 2013, 03:30:23 PM
Dave it is about time I got the whole story.Ouch. But next time I see you I will ridiculise you and we will not climb as it is dangerous. :) Jamie I love the HST reference must have been a gonzo experience.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 18, 2013, 08:57:33 PM
Dave, that is amazing.  Few live after experiencing "Then the full rack I was wearing bagan to spark and jump around, uh oh. Blam. I was blown or jumped into the air ten feet covered in light landing back on the ledge..... The shot had blown the sole off my left E.B., entered up my left calf, arched across my inner thighs about three inches below my " belay device" and exited out my right thigh. Looked about medium well done."
Did you detect a strong smell of ozone (a by product of the intense ionization caused by the lighting)? 
Luckily, I have been rained heavily on only twice while on lead (HighE being one of them of all things).  I did smell ozone once as we were beating a hasty retreat in the face of a violent summer T-storm.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: OldEric on February 18, 2013, 09:33:39 PM
Wolf's Head epics seem to be popular - all I got there was attacked by mosquitoes - although I did have the usual thunder/lightning/hair-on-end going over Jackass pass on the way out (running from the mosquitoes).

Also classic lightning experiences on the Petite Grepon and the Diamond.  Usual drama - semi fried.  Long ago.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 18, 2013, 10:08:22 PM
Eric, You must have a good one from the revered AMC bucket drop. Preceding the innovative "manhole cover the climber" tradition.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 18, 2013, 10:23:11 PM
The bucket got decapitated a number of years ago but I heard it was made whole again, just in time to torment more belayers.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 18, 2013, 10:45:42 PM
Wolf's Head epics seem to be popular - all I got there was attacked by mosquitoes - although I did have the usual thunder/lightning/hair-on-end going over Jackass pass on the way out (running from the mosquitoes).

Also classic lightning experiences on the Petite Grepon and the Diamond.  Usual drama - semi fried.  Long ago.

Not for nothing Eric..... every time you get "zapped"- stick your finger in the socket, get buzzed from a lightening strike, etc., you've lost a bit of your body's ability to transfer electrical signals- it's synapse. Science shows that it is accumulative. The more you get zapped, the duller you get (so to speak). Usual drama? Hardly. Long ago cause maybe you're cooked?  "OLD" Eric is spot on?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 19, 2013, 10:15:51 AM
Who you calling dull ? :D

Sounds like the Winds should require lightening rods.

Synapse Collapse, in the Valley, nice climb but I think the name may not refer to any storms
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: OldEric on February 19, 2013, 11:09:18 AM
The bucket got decapitated a number of years ago but I heard it was made whole again, just in time to torment more belayers.

Yeah the venerable bucket still exists - makes it's annual appearance every April - sort of like a late groundhog.  Breaks a few ropes every year etc.  It has lost a few pieces over the years and is down from a solid 175 pounds to 150 or so - must be becoming a sport climber in its old age.

At least we actually allow the students to use belay devices now as opposed to catching it with a hip belay - cuts down on the shredded shirts and ribs.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: lucky luke on February 19, 2013, 11:24:55 AM
For belay training before going on a climbing trip, to give a good simulation of catching a fall, we came up with the following:
There was a fire escape on the side of the infirmary .....

But you trained!!!

Better to have belay technique with knowledge than a technique without practice.

I don't say climb in a thunderstorm, which is dangerous, but you can do tope roping while it was raining ounce in a while...instead of going to a gym.

Young climber think that they climb 5.10 in a gym and are able to climb a 5.6 slab. The four pitch of standard at white horse is often wet and could be very hard when you don't master the technique. Doing traverse at the bottom after a rain can help a lot of leader to gain more experiences.

But many of you said it it ridiculous to trained in bad situation because some can be hurt and have to call rescue...and the rescue risk there life... and I don't want to go outside

Better not to be in a rescue team at that price!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JBro on February 19, 2013, 11:57:10 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/asXg9N7.gif)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: pappy on February 19, 2013, 12:31:32 PM
Unfortunately, my pool of stupid stories pretty much extends to the present, but I did generate a few good ones when I went to the Bugs in the late '80s. We thought we'd start with one of moderates on the west side of Snowpatch. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch col was very icy that year (during our two weeks there were three helicopter evacs from people who fell on it), and I can read a map, so we went around the other side of Snowpatch, cause it was shorter. Icefall? What's an icefall? So, shut out from our original, low commitment objectives we decided to do the SW Corner, which we know almost nothing about and at ~16 pitches is a bit more to bite off. F/U #1. Left our packs at the col, including headlamps, and went with the rope, rack, shirt on the back thing. F/U #2. Blew off our turn around time, cause we were just so close to the top (mostly because I have this learning disability where I always think that pretty line must be the 5.6 crux and usually turns out to be .10 with the 5.6 around the corner). F/U #3. Then as we start down we get blasted by a sleet storm, gale winds, zero visibility, but hey, isn't that why we go to the mountains?

Normally you should be able to downclimb, almost walk down, the rock next to the snowpatch itself, but everything is now verglassed so we've got to rap everything. The first few pitches of the SW corner follow a narrow ridge before abutting the main bulk of the mountain with the huge east and south faces sweeping away to either side: Descending the route, (which no one ever does, but our packs are down there) it is imperative that you find the top of that ridge. We get below the snowpatch, and Mark disappears down the rope into the gloom and clouds. There is no possible communication, and the rope stays taut for a looong time, and it's now getting dark. Finally it goes slack, but I'm shivering so violently it takes like five minutes just to rig my device, then I rap into the gloom, sleet stinging my face, and the wind whipping the ropes out to the side.

And we're fucked. We are in fact out on the east face, the rappel is free hanging, it is many hundreds of feet of vertical rock to the glacier, and Mark is way over to the left on a tiny stance with his arms wrapped around a big loose flake and no anchor. Seems when he realized we were too far east he tried to traverse over to the ridge and wound up taking a huge swing out on the face with about two feet of rope left in his hand--which must have been exciting, we never tied knots in the ends in those days--and he's not going anywhere if I don't get him. But all I've got to work with is a flared vertical crack, and it's now too dark (like 15 min. to full dark) for me to tell by sight whether a piece is any good, so I just start firing in nuts, five of them I think, yanking and beating on them until I figure one of them has to be good. Mostly I remember when it came time to pull the ropes, 'Oh god, please don't let this get stuck, or we are gonna die.'

A week later we get slammed by six inches of snow on the Beckey/Chouinard. As I rapped the big dihedral in the snow (another free hanger) with this huge friggin' pack (Mark's fault, he's a caver by upbringing and cavers, especially cavers from the south, are all bat sh!t crazy with bizarre ideas of what is necessary equipment. I've got this huge pack, but no stove, tent, or sleeping bag. Don't ask.) I flip over, hanging up side down, the wind slamming me from side to side, and I remember thinking, 'you just don't f$cking learn do you,' and, 'I'll bet it would be cool to have some sort of back up right about now.'
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: old_school on February 19, 2013, 01:37:04 PM
I flip over, hanging up side down, the wind slamming me from side to side, and I remember thinking, 'you just don't f$cking learn do you,' and, 'I'll bet it would be cool to have some sort of back up right about now.'

Lol....Epic Pappy!  ;)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 19, 2013, 02:57:15 PM
Looks like I started a record breaking thread, for the number of post already submitted.

I'm saving a few stories for later.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 19, 2013, 03:05:29 PM
Ha, Nice one Pappy,  That's a wild place to be upside down and swinging in the breeze. Yikes

C'mon Steve, It's like confession.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 19, 2013, 05:45:36 PM
Looks like I started a record breaking thread, for the number of post already submitted.

I'm saving a few stories for later.

Come on SA-- i hate waiting
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 19, 2013, 07:46:08 PM
O.K. John,

Having gotten wounded in Vietnam, I was able to take military hops, out of Dover,N.H., almost any week I wanted. I would fly usually to Spain and connect to England or Germany.

I decided to go to Chamonix, and take a look around. It was 1970, in mid-February, and hardly a time to find a climbing partner. In frustration, I made the dumb decision to climb Mt.Blanc, starting from the valley floor.

I really didn't know the area, but somehow made it to the trailhead, where the easy route started, except in places I was up to my waist in snow. I made it to the Gouter Hut, and found it unlocked.

I slept in the caretakers bed, and struck out next morning for the summit, wearing crampons, as there was this vast sheet of ice in places, and super cold. I made it back to the hut in one piece, and decided to do a little search of the place.

There was a huge selection of liquor in a cabinet, and  wooden cask of wine, in a lower basement area.

Since it was getting late, I decided to stay over another day, which turned into a 2 day layover. The next day proved really beautiful, with no wind and bright sun. I decided to sample the wine and hung out on the tin roof, basking in the sun, and with the altitude and all, in a great mood, the day went by.

The next morning I started down, plunging down the slope, when I broke thru a hidden crevasse. I reacted instantly, and since I had quite a bit of forward momentum, I managed to spread eagle my arms and save myself from a permanent tomb.

I remember the blue ice underneath, which looked like it was a hundred feet deep.

The dumb things you do when your young and inexperienced.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DLottmann on February 19, 2013, 08:17:10 PM
God, you guys are SO good at ignoring his posts... I think I am learning...
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 19, 2013, 08:52:53 PM
O.K. John,

Having gotten wounded in Vietnam, I was able to take military hops, out of Dover,N.H., almost any week I wanted. I would fly usually to Spain and connect to England or Germany.

I decided to go to Chamonix, and take a look around. It was 1970, in mid-February, and hardly a time to find a climbing partner. In frustration, I made the dumb decision to climb Mt.Blanc, starting from the valley floor.

I really didn't know the area, but somehow made it to the trailhead, where the easy route started, except in places I was up to my waist in snow. I made it to the Gouter Hut, and found it unlocked.

I slept in the caretakers bed, and struck out next morning for the summit, wearing crampons, as there was this vast sheet of ice in places, and super cold. I made it back to the hut in one piece, and decided to do a little search of the place.

There was a huge selection of liquor in a cabinet, and  wooden cask of wine, in a lower basement area.

Since it was getting late, I decided to stay over another day, which turned into a 2 day layover. The next day proved really beautiful, with no wind and bright sun. I decided to sample the wine and hung out on the tin roof, basking in the sun, and with the altitude and all, in a great mood, the day went by.

The next morning I started down, plunging down the slope, when I broke thru a hidden crevasse. I reacted instantly, and since I had quite a bit of forward momentum, I managed to spread eagle my arms and save myself from a permanent tomb.

I remember the blue ice underneath, which looked like it was a hundred feet deep.

The dumb things you do when your young and inexperienced.

So the QUESTION is: What would you different today? And don't say you'd be more cautious- I attribute "caution" to older age. Meaning you're going slower cause your an old ****er. Not that there's anything wrong with that.

Sounds like you did everything right that day.
Proof being you lived to tell us all about it.

Looking back, I've had several days like that SA. Where the reaper swings, but misses. Ha-ha mother****er.
Many of my most memorable moments. Not my finest. Most memorable though. Lightening strikes, avalanches, slides for life, lost solo at 20,000ft, etc.....

As John Bouchard once told me- "ya gotta get that 6th sense".

I wouldn't trade those memories for ANYTHING!

Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 19, 2013, 09:24:33 PM
the 6th sense---  good thing 'cause i had some times with JB and we weren't young or inexperinced
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 19, 2013, 09:28:48 PM
Did you get into explosives with JB? He was all over that shit.
My experience with John was some climbing but mostly paragliding.
We sure had some fun.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 19, 2013, 09:35:01 PM
I will not mention any explosives on this site  :) Shit happens, motorcycles, ropes,  half Dome  etc

Who holds the west side road speed record ?? NOT  ME  oh that's right, that never happened.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 19, 2013, 09:48:49 PM
West side road? I can only imagine.
Heard from the horses mouth about maxxing out in Crawford Notch. And the subsequent jonny law run in.
Good times for sure.
JB- one intense human.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: pappy on February 19, 2013, 10:22:34 PM
It isn’t climbing and I wasn’t young, though inexperience certainly played a part: The one that gets me screaming all over again was in a cave. It was July and way too damn hot to go climbing, so Mark and Sporty decided we should go caving, especially as I had never been in one. But with these guys it’s always go big or go home, so for my first cave we were going to do the Incredible Pit drop in Ellison’s. This involves a 520’ free hanging rappel down a vertical shaft that you’ve reached after squirming a mile or two into the mountain (toting this ridiculous 520’ static line), with a 120’ drop and some thought provoking down climbing on mud along the way.

It’s kind of nice that you can’t actually see the 500’ to the bottom, there’s just a black void above and below and rippled limestone walls all around you. I tried to concentrate on my descending rack and ignore all of it, because I was freaking the f#$k out. And then when I got to the bottom I was faced with the next part, which is now you have to climb 520’ back up the damn rope.

Cavers are jumar pros. In comparison, virtually every climber I’ve ever seen jumar looks like he’s having a seizure. None of that Yosemite bullshit for cavers. Sporty had a racing rig—because one of the things these nut jobs do is have jumar races—which is where you have an ascender on each foot and one on your chest to keep you upright and you go as fast as you can do a few hundred knee bends. This is considered too complex and foreign for me, so I’m rigged up with a chest box system. Not to go into too much detail, but you don’t actually clip your harness into your jumars. The rope and the sling from the top jug go through a box on your chest to keep you upright, and besides, Mark informed me calmly, the foot slings are attached to your ankles by chicken loops so that they can’t come off your foot, so if disaster strikes, that will catch you.

Since I find myself at the bottom of a hole way underground with a pair of lunatics, I’m not happy, especially since as the newbie I left myself in their hands and don’t have any extra gear, not even a spare sling. Sporty starts zipping up the rope, and when he’s about half way up I start climbing. I am soon acutely aware that I’m hundreds of feet off the deck and not actually clipped to anything. And then there’s this loud ‘swooosh’ like I’ve been buzzed by a pterodactyl and I’m cowering on the rope but I can’t hang off anything and from down at the bottom I hear mark yell something like ‘Bat!’ and all I can think of is that must have been one f#$king big bat.

It turns out he yelled “Rack!” because when Sporty pulled over the lip at the top unbeknownst to him his descending rack fell out of his pack. Those things are ginormous, several pounds of metal, and by the time it passed me it had already free fallen 250’. I have no idea how close it came, but Mark said at the bottom it spun down hooked on the rope. All I can think of is if it had hit me, and I came to hanging upside down by my chicken loops in a black hole in the ground 250’ off the deck. That’s the ‘what if’ that gets me screaming.
Well, it’s in the top three.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 19, 2013, 10:35:39 PM
Caves. I don't go in caves.

I'm hoping Pappy that you've learned your lesson and don't go in caves. Anymore.

Great story.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on February 20, 2013, 07:18:36 AM
Great story Pappy.

Similar thing happened to me in Yosemite, but it was a rock, about the size of a grapefruit. I was jumaring up a fixed line and felt like I got hit by a baseball bat. The rock just grazed my head, cutting me pretty good. We retreated. I was pretty lucky
that day, back in 1971.

I just started wearing headgear, after seeing this guy, about my age take a leader fall. he was definitely saved by the helmet.

Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 20, 2013, 08:38:02 AM
This ones local. Thought of it the other day as it's 30th anniversary passed.

I had a pretty steep learning curve starting out, like most climbers back then. Second day of ice climbing, the first being one pitch of toprope and having never led a pitch of rock, decided to lead the Waterfall route over at Frankenstein. Stopped off at IME real quick to pick up 2 new Desmaison axes, half dozen Chouinard screws and some webbing for runners.

Clawed my way up the route, occasionally using a knee on the awkward humpfest that is that route. Brought up my brother in law and poor Roger from the other story. We rapped back down to the base of the climb and coiled the rope, feeling pretty good about my new status as alpinist. Then immediately stuck my crampon in my aforementioned knickers at calf hieght pulling myself into a forward roll off the snowy platform. The approach gully was mostly ice and I did an Evil Kneival at Caesars palace style descent all the way to the tracks. I had a tib/fib high, a tib/fib low as well as a spiral into the knee and a spiral into the ankle on my left leg. I'm not a doctor but I knew it was broken because my foot was pointing the other way. I landed literally at the feet of a wonderful gentleman named Marvin that I still see at the Moat regularly. Marvin splinted the leg with webbing and my two new Desmaison medical devices, and they dragged me down the tracks to the car. The freight train was still running regularly in those days, making the trestle crossing a bit anxious. Off to memorial for a week of rest and relaxation.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 20, 2013, 09:58:09 AM
And why exactly did i stop ice climbing ??? Gripper D

The prow, winter '77/78. Tom c and I decided to try aid climbing, I had never done any and he maybe 2 pitches. Great gear, pile jackets, hiking boots etc. I did p1 & 2 combo, Tom came up and led off.. guess what ? it startd to rain, what a shock, then sleet and ice.
Off belay ! and now I;m screwed because i have never used jumars before, nice diagonal and slipping all the way. i don't know how long it took but the gloves had frazen on to the jugs and we had to barehand the rap set up.. hanginging belay of course.

I guess this is what hypothermia is like.. we tied two big loops of fig 8 in the ropes and clipped together with biners.. like 3 of them and off into the Big Flush
We couldn't coil the ropes and dragged them through the woods to the van.. Good old VW heater. between that and some 151, i think we got colder.
good thing Daisie's had 40 cent beers back then..
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: WharfRat on February 20, 2013, 10:47:11 AM
Sounds like good times to me!!

And why exactly did i stop ice climbing ??? Gripper D

The prow, winter '77/78. Tom c and I decided to try aid climbing, I had never done any and he maybe 2 pitches. Great gear, pile jackets, hiking boots etc. I did p1 & 2 combo, Tom came up and led off.. guess what ? it startd to rain, what a shock, then sleet and ice.
Off belay ! and now I;m screwed because i have never used jumars before, nice diagonal and slipping all the way. i don't know how long it took but the gloves had frazen on to the jugs and we had to barehand the rap set up.. hanginging belay of course.

I guess this is what hypothermia is like.. we tied two big loops of fig 8 in the ropes and clipped together with biners.. like 3 of them and off into the Big Flush
We couldn't coil the ropes and dragged them through the woods to the van.. Good old VW heater. between that and some 151, i think we got colder.
good thing Daisie's had 40 cent beers back then..
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 20, 2013, 11:02:35 AM
Sure was.. i went aiding ONE more time.. learned the Yosemite aid method later.. much better.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: eyebolter on February 20, 2013, 06:10:42 PM
Well I've got a ton of dumb ass stories; here is just one.

It is 1977, I'm in high school.   I've only been ice climbing a few times. I drive up to Crawford Notch with my older buddy in his 20's.  We smoke a bunch of pot (a recurring theme in my early epics), and head up cinema gully.  We wanted to set up a belay but it was super - thin, no apparent anchors, so we kept climbing.  My buddy went straight up an ice flow, I went right up a snow ramp.   The ramp dead-ends, so I'm trying to traverse left with my tools in frozen mud, my crampons skating on verglassed rock.  My buddy is safe, only about 20 feet away on the ledge at the top of the route, saying "come on!", but he can't help me as I have the rope in my pack.   

I look down between my feet and panic seeing the railroad and the highway far below me.  I'm slamming my left hand tool into the frozen dirt, again and again, trying to get it to stick, when I realize that the pick of my Simond hammer (google it if you want to see a bad ice tool) has broken off.

Somehow I claw my way over to my buddy and collapse in a heap, drenched in sweat. 

Never been back to Cinema.  However, on every sport route I've put up since then I have used that same hammer because it has a handy clip-in loop at the bottom.  I'm still using it.

 
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JBro on February 20, 2013, 07:35:55 PM
I thought of this one because of the accident in the gully under Dracula.

The first time I went up into the Ravine was sometime around '95.  My partner was experienced, but I had only been dragged up a couple of ice routes by Hurley and Shimburg the month prior. (No rock experience either -- started climbing ice first.)

Anyway I was following my partner to the start of Yale, and we approached it by heading up toward the fan then traversing hard right under the rock buttresses. The snow was hard and icy in spots, but our crampons and tools were still strapped to our packs. We got to one particularly sketchy looking spot where I thought crampons or at least a tool would be nice, but my partner didn't even slow down and just crossed it by edging in with the side of his boots. I felt uncomfortable but didn't want to seem like a wimp so followed. Made it about three or four steps before my feet popped and I was off like a rocket headed for the boulder field. Slid a hundred feet or a little more and luckily was able to grab a few bushes (ripping some branches off) to slow down before hitting anything too hard.

That was the last time I let the possibility of looking like a wimp influence any of my decisions.

Edit: Also then led some pitches, and I remember when my partner handed me the rack I was concerned because it had some pitons on it and I thought they were not allowed. My partner thought that was pretty funny worrying about driving pitons in Yale Gully.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DGoguen on February 21, 2013, 07:35:31 AM
Pancakes to Pie?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: frik on February 21, 2013, 10:12:27 AM
Bristolpipe... it that you?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: Old Mans Ghost on February 21, 2013, 10:28:08 AM
Bristolpoop... it that you?

Fixed your post.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: pappy on February 21, 2013, 12:19:18 PM
Once you get me started…another not young and not climbing, but super inexperienced. It’s just too damn hot to climb in the summer down south, and we were always looking for something cooler. This time it was white water kayaking. Despite the fact that I had never done it before (played a little in canoes on Class 2-3 water many moons before, but no kayaks), my badass whitewater climbing buddies decided that for my first effort we should shoot Section IV of the Chattooga, which is a world famous Class 4/5 run. Think Deliverence, part of which was filmed on the Chattooga. (You may detect a theme here. I always thought that Stegg was our version of Mikey from the old Life cereal commercials: ‘We’ll get Shannon to do it, he’ll try anything.’ As my buddy Steve told me later, ‘No dude, that’s you.’)
There is a deep pool at the top of IV, and the three guys I was with (including Steve) undertake teaching me to roll. I didn‘t notice because I was too busy trying to avoid drowning, but during this session a guided raft trip from NOC floats into the pool after finishing Section III. Steve tells me later that the guides, upon observing someone learning to roll (or not) at the top of IV, exchange worried, disbelieving looks, but, screw it, they’re guides which automatically makes them busybody know-it-alls.  :-* I can’t get it at all, though. I have to visualize an action before I can do it, and the geometry of rolling is just too weird. After 15-20 min. we say screw it, this is boring, let’s do it. So off we go.
It is relatively low water, we may be crazy but not entirely stupid, and I get to walk around a couple of runs and I go swimming a couple of times, but it is cool. Then we come to a class 5 rapid called ‘Corkscrew’ (I assume a description is unnecessary). We land river left to scout the run, which seems a little pointless to me, cause I ain’t running it regardless, and after a minute Steve says, ‘OK, we’ll walk around this one.’ Then he tells me we have to cross to river right to portage.
Now we landed right at the entrance to Corkscrew, and it’s a deep swift channel between me and the other side of the river, so I’m, like, how do we do dat? Steve says, ‘We’ll ferry across.’ Ferry? Evidently there are a few other holes in my knowledge besides rolling. As he quickly explains to me, you diagonal upstream to get across. Sounds simple enough, and he zips across, though I’m a little nervous because we are literally 20-30’ above the intake for Corkscrew.
The key to ferrying is to keep the tip of the boat pointed upstream, but one of the problems tyro kayakers have with a whitewater boat is making the MF go straight. And when I’m about halfway across that tip veers downstream and the current catches it, and the boat whips around and starts rolling over and I know I’m going to die. It’s on its side before I’m able to give a huge adrenalin stoked back stroke to keep it up and whip it further around and now I’m facing straight into the maw of the beast, but back into a good ferry position, just backwards. But I’m operating on pure adrenalin now and I’m a back stroking monster and a few swift strokes and I practically run the boat on top of the rocks on the other side.
Steve’s sitting on his kayak and says calmly, ‘Damn Jim, your whole life just flashed before my eyes.’ This affair probably doesn’t even make the top half dozen, but it was such a cool line.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 21, 2013, 01:50:55 PM
Damn, that is a good line indeed Pappy.
Close call.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: Admin Al on February 22, 2013, 02:21:22 PM
‘Damn Jim, your whole life just flashed before my eyes.’

LOL... Love that one
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: perswig on February 22, 2013, 06:42:57 PM
Will you guys knock off the scary climbing shit?
If my mom ever sees this thread, she'll stop signing my permission slip for after-school trips to the climbing wall at the Y!

(Hi, MOM!  I have no idea what happened to your bottle of Dilaudid, honest!)
Dale


(cool thread!)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 22, 2013, 09:16:44 PM
the first guidebook my Mom ever saw was the Webster'96   .. she was horrified
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 22, 2013, 11:19:44 PM
January 1986. Myself and smartpig (Jamie Cunningham), both living (at the time) in the greater Boston area, are "camped out" in the unoccupied front porch of the very infamous "Red House", in Keene Valley NY (I'll let James fill in the details on that).

We were drinking beers eating pubgrub at the Elm Tree Inn in Keene, when I proposed to JC that we should go climbing. And climbing we did.

Starting out at the base of the Spider's Web at 9:00pm, half cocked, with a shitload of gear, we made the approach. In a blizzard.

With our headlights barely cutting through the falling snow, we chose "TR" as our objective.

Looking up, I told Cunningham- looks like your lead. After getting snuggled in a sleeping bag I'd carried along I readied myself to belay him on the head-lighted aid assualt. I fell asleep often only to be awoken by "rope"....."rope"....."Rope"...."ROPE"....YOOO WTF!!!! Alright. Alright. Alright. Here's some rope. <yawn>

We topped out at 6:30am.
 
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 23, 2013, 09:46:37 AM
Jesus Ken, what did you  expect ? Climbing and drinking with a Scot ?!

Shit, i;m part Scot
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: smartpig on February 23, 2013, 11:53:13 AM
Jesus Ken, what did you  expect ? Climbing and drinking with a Scot ?!

Shit, i;m part Scot

Och eye, John! Ye up fer eh bit of Ferret leg'in are ya?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: perswig on February 23, 2013, 07:34:11 PM
Ferretlegging.
Now that's just nasty.

Dale
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: sneoh on February 23, 2013, 09:08:34 PM
I laughed until I cried reading this one - http://www.wesjones.com/ferret.htm

Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 23, 2013, 09:29:12 PM
Jesus Ken, what did you  expect ? Climbing and drinking with a Scot ?!

Shit, i;m part Scot

Och eye, John! Ye up fer eh bit of Ferret leg'in are ya?

jamie, i see an f/a in the making
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: xcrag_corex on February 23, 2013, 10:39:18 PM
So an ethics question for you old timers..... if one were to do a FA whilst Ferret Legging would every subsequent ascent of said route have to be done in the same fashion?
 
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: xcrag_corex on February 23, 2013, 10:41:21 PM
.....and how do you feel about someone Retro-Ferreting some of your past FAs?
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on February 24, 2013, 09:49:21 AM
You canno deny the ferret
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on February 24, 2013, 07:29:06 PM
JC laddie- I recall a time whilst skiing where every time you turned left you let out a blood curdling scream. I remember it as pretty funny. You I'm thinkin remember pain.

If there ever was a ferret in yer pants, it for sure was then.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: smartpig on February 25, 2013, 11:32:14 AM
JC laddie- I recall a time whilst skiing where every time you turned left you let out a blood curdling scream. I remember it as pretty funny. You I'm thinkin remember pain.

If there ever was a ferret in yer pants, it for sure was then.

No doubt youth!  Back in the day with leather boots and 200mm double camber skinny skis- talking about Morton's neuroma!  Skiing off of Lafayette I believe.

(Ken's reference to the Red House Gang in the Adirondacks: read my essay in Jim Lawyer's latest rock guide to the Adirondacks).



Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on March 04, 2013, 09:13:18 PM
Bump this thread.
Forget young and inexperienced.
Go with dumb.
I know I've got a few more tales.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: JJ Jameson on March 04, 2013, 10:03:33 PM
OK, here's a non climbing one.

Around '90-'91 there was a winter with almost no snow, but several big rain events, and very cold. I was in Bartlett with the crew, (my eventual wife, my climbing partner Joel, his GF, and some other locals) in between skiing and Ice climbing, we looked for fun winter activities. Since there was no snow, all the ponds had frozen into glassy smoothness, perfect for ice skating.
We undertook to Drive/Hike up to a bunch of ponds to go skating, over the course of several days. Back Country Skating. Awesome fun. We'd bring liquid and herbal refreshments, and have a blast.
This culminated in a journey up Town Hall Road up to Mountain Pond. We drove up as far as we could, then the road ceased to be sanded and salted, but had a solid coating of ice on it. Once the trucks started to slide sideways off the road, we parked and hiked the rest of the way, probably about a mile, of a steady incline. The only way to walk safely was to walk in the brush/rocky edge of the road. The road itself was treacherous.
We all made our way up to the pond and skated until the sun was about to drop behind the ridge line. Great times.
As we booted up and started to walk back, it occurred to me, this road is completely iced over, and downhill, all the way to the trucks. Why are we hiking?




We should skate.



So, we put the skates back on, and tried it out. Yup. it worked, we were quickly able to get way more speed than we wanted. So we would go, then stop after a bit, then start again. Joel and I wanted longer runs, so we grabbed long branches, and used them trailing behind us as outriggers, as the blades were so short, the fore and aft stability was awful. With this support in the back, we could maintain stability and get going really fast. we went flying down the road, carving turns like skiers. With the light fading, it was getting a bit darker, that's when it got really cool. There was the occasional piece of gravel or sand, and we found that if your blade hit it, it would make a spark off the skate blade. So there we were, flying down the hill whooping and hollering, laughing at the tops of our lungs, carving turns with some serious sparks flying off our feet every 10-15 feet. Racing down the hill, side by side.
We made it down to the bottom in one piece, then sat there in the dark, listening to all the others come down, seeing those sparks jumping around as the others came in to view.
We almost lost one of our number, when, without the benefit of the outrigger, she got going too fast, and was wildly windmilling her arms to keep her balance before finally tumbling off the road into the brush. Thank god for fluffy winter clothing and mittens, as she escaped with not even a scratch, but just some bruising.

We called it "Extreme Skating". One of the most fun days I've ever had in the Mountains. We all laughed so hard we couldn't talk.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: darwined on March 04, 2013, 10:11:57 PM
So I'm still fairly young and inexperienced, so my story isn't going to come close to some of the great stories in this
thread.  Last summer some guys were gracious enough to let me tag along on their trip to the Winds.  Here's a snippit.

The drive from the airport in Salt Lake to Pinedale was complete with a store that sold "LIQUOR AND FIREWORKS",
a rest stop toilet that could've passed for a crime scene, and an entire herd of cattle being driven off a hundred foot
cliff(this, I did photograph).  Lots of laughs were had.

The stoke in the first twenty-four hours was like nothing I've ever felt.  You know what I'm talking about, last minute packing, joking
around,and sluggin' back the last cold beer you'll even see for eight days. It was awesome.

So we head in at Big Sandy opening with these HUGE hundred pound packs.  It's flat, so it's pretty cruiser for the first five
miles to Big Sandy Lake.  We'd heard about a climber's trail around the back side of Big Sandy Lake that was supposed to shave
forty-five minutes and a mile and a half off the approach to Haystack.  No brainer right? Well, if you've ever been, you prolly
know about the million plus little paths the look promising at the start but eventually peeter out to wilderness.  So the next
six hours or so was spent kinda thrashing about the hillside behind Big Sandy Lake.  Finally, after a pretty hair-raising
river crossing, we reached some high ground where we could see the trail about two miles and a thousand feet BELOW us.

Trying to find that "climbers trail" with HUGE packs was pretty dumb. That first day definitely evened out the stoke a bit.
Great trip!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: SA on March 05, 2013, 07:18:48 AM
Hey Darwined,

I think I know exactly where you were when you looked down on the correct trail. I was in there last August, and did much fishing as well. The trails leading into Black Joe Lake, skirt high above the Haystack trail, and I bet you were heading that way.

Fun place!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: darwined on March 05, 2013, 08:18:55 AM
Nah.  We had hiked up onto the shoulder of Schiester Peak.  The river we had to cross was fed by Temple Lake.  Black Joe Looks like a great area.  Did you spend anytime on that wall north of Wind River Peak?  That baby looks really impressive. I definitely want to get back out there before too much time passes.
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on March 05, 2013, 09:11:04 AM
Me and Jimmy decide it's a good day to go paragliding. Mind you, James has only flown a few "test flights" at Point of the Moutain in SLCity, a year and a half prior. So we hike up the Webster Cliff trail, breaking trail the whole way. At launch, we encounter complete whiteout conditions. The wind direction is perfect but a wee bit strong. James turns to me and says, "I'm not very experienced with all this, so I'm gonna take your word on it. If you think it's doable, I'm launching". As I got him harnessed up and the canopy layed out, I really wasn't sure. I stood in front of him and held tightly onto his harness as he pulled the canopy up. SNAP!! The wind being as strong as it was,the chute immediately inflated, and James goes straight up. I was 5ft off the ground when I "released" him. He went 30ft above me before he  s l o w l y  started penetrating the wind. I watched with mixed feelings as he dissapeared into the cloud/blizzard. Sure hope he finds the LZ.


Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: darwined on March 05, 2013, 09:23:10 AM
 :D ROFLMAO
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: pappy on March 05, 2013, 03:29:13 PM
Apparently I haven’t posted the Mt. Fay affair here. At least it’s about climbing this time…

Sporty and I went to Canada for my 40th birthday. I had a long list of retreats to try and clean up now that I was knocking on the door of being too old. It was a lean snow year, so after we got bombed off of the N Face of Edith Cavell we decided we wanted something we knew would be ice and no rock, so we aimed at the Center Ice Bulge on Fay. Normally this is a two or three day affair, but we were cocky bad asses in our own minds, so we decided we were going to go car to car in a day. Bear in mind you have to hike a couple of thousand feet of steep scree, climb a 300’ 5.7 rock wall, and traverse at least a mile of heavily crevassed hanging glacier just to get to the shrund below the 1600’ ice face, which starts at a mellow 65 degree angle and curves gracefully up to vertical at the top, overhanging if you go further left. We left the Moraine Lake parking lot about 4AM, and were at the base of the ice by noon.

If you just want steep, pure, massively thick alpine ice without mucking with that rock stuff it’s hard to beat this route. My last lead ended about 100’ from the top, I popped in a couple of screws for a hanging belay, and looking down at the smooth sweep of ice down to the glacier I just thought, ‘This is alien, people don’t belong here.’ But everything is going like clockwork and by 7PM we’re on top and the car to car is in the bag, so I ask Sporty, “Which way down?” and he says, “Shit, I thought you knew which way down.”

It turns out I actually did know the right way, which is to rap the W Ridge, but what we could see of it was a near vertical knife edge of loose stacked plates of especially gruesome Rockies limestone. It looked like a marvelous way to die, so we start casting about for alternatives, now acutely aware that it’s getting late and we have no food, water, shelter, or any of those other essentials. Finally we dive down a gully on the south side, which proves to be the normal route up, and by 9:00 we’re at the base on another glacier slurping melt water. Only we now have the Ten Peak range between us and the car. So it’s trudge miles down that glacier then turn right and trudge miles up another one. We’re not roped, cause it’s August and a lean snow year and all the holes are open, right?

By 1:30AM we’re near the head of that glacier trying to figure out how to get to a hut up at the col when my foot breaks through and, um, maybe all the holes aren’t open. But we’ve been on the go, hard, for going on 22 hours and breaking the rope out just seems like way too much work, so I’m going along probing with my shortie tool, sans rope. It gets a little hazy here, but Sporty says at one point the tool slid into the hilt, and I vaguely remember thinking something like, ‘It’s probably thick enough’ (because one of the keys to being really stupid is being able to rationalize it) and I take another step and pop through.

Fortunately, like SA in an earlier post, I throw out my arms and catch myself, and I’m shoulders deep in a biiiig hole. It’s really disconcerting to look down and see your legs dangling in space in the spot of your headlamp and there's nothing for another hundred feet to the rushing water at the bottom. Sporty is freaking out and trying to reach out to me with his tool for me to grab, but of course, he has no idea which way the hole goes. With my unique vantage point I can tell where the edge is and somehow manage to heave up, plant my tool and pull myself out. Pure adrenalin. Of all the really stupid things I’ve done, this is the one where I can drive in a stake and say, ‘from this point forward, every day is now just gravy.’ But it’s not the end of the story.

We get to the top of the glacier and scramble up a loose steep headwall for a couple of hundred feet and traverse to the hut, falling through the door at about 3AM. The half dozen Euros inside are very pleased, but, screw’m, they’re Euros. We just collapse on the sleeping platform in our gear, and in about ten minutes one of the Euros starts to get violently sick, heaving convulsions, only after a second I realize that it’s Sporty, who has passed out and is trying to throw up on himself (and me) while asleep though there’s not much other than bile for him to dredge up. I shake him awake and say, ‘Sporty, you’re throwing up on yourself,’ and he looks at me bleary, ‘OK’, and passes out again.

Dawn comes and we make our way back to the parking lot. Like any good drunks, err, alpinists, who have just had an ‘experience’ of some note, we don’t clean up, change, or eat. We break out the vodka. It’s 9AM on a sunny bluebird morning, and we’re sitting on the tailgate of Sporty’s truck. We look like we’ve been beat to shit, smell like puke, and are taking hits straight from the bottle. The parking lot is filling with tourists and as they scuttle past us, parents herd their children to the far side. After awhile (a very short while), we’re pretty lit and decide we want to eat the bakery down in Lake Louise. It’s a very good bakery. And as we drive into town I see that the RCMP has a roadblock at the four way stop. And Sporty isn’t wearing his seatbelt.

‘Sporty, goddammit, put on your seatbelt,’

‘Whaaa?’ And then the Mountie has his head in the window but manages to keep a straight face despite the smell, although maybe that covered the smell of the booze, and starts lecturing us about the importance of seat belts and he was sorry but he was going to have to give us a ticket because they didn’t want us to get hurt while we were visiting their country. And I just couldn’t help it, I really couldn’t, and I start laughing uncontrollably.

I thought they were going to throw us under the jail.

Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on March 05, 2013, 06:58:39 PM
pappy- i need to send you some photos of my bud, crazy jeff ice climbing in GA

Why do all these posts involve the slippery stuff ???
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DaveR on March 05, 2013, 07:43:27 PM
Pappy,
Why didn't you call for a rescue on your cell phone? :)
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: strandman on March 05, 2013, 09:24:55 PM
'cause pappy's cell was in the car.. frozen, next to the booze
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DaveR on March 05, 2013, 10:08:49 PM
'cause pappy's cell was in the car.. frozen, next to the booze

Must have learned hanging out with you and Callahan! ;D
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: pappy on March 07, 2013, 08:16:16 AM
Pappy,
Why didn't you call for a rescue on your cell phone? :)

This was '98, didn't have a cell until the board made we get one in '04. Besides, that would be such an embarrassing conversation: 'Hello, 9-1-1? We've been stupid and now we're uncomfortable, could you come pick us up? And could you bring a pizza, too?'
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: DaveR on March 07, 2013, 09:49:27 AM
that would be such an embarrassing conversation: 'Hello, 9-1-1? We've been stupid and now we're uncomfortable, could you come pick us up? And could you bring a pizza, too?'

I know to many guys on MRS. I would rather eat cyanide than make that call. I would never hear the end of it!
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: Admin Al on March 07, 2013, 06:11:47 PM
I know to many guys on MRS. I would rather eat cyanide than make that call. I would never hear the end of it!


+++ 1,000,000,000
Title: Re: Dumb things you do when you're young and inexperienced
Post by: kenreville on March 26, 2013, 11:11:48 PM
Bump to the top.
C'mon you dogs.
Let's hear all about your screw ups.
I haven't really begun.....