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General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: xcrag_corex on March 03, 2013, 10:34:20 pm

Title: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: xcrag_corex on March 03, 2013, 10:34:20 pm
Looking for routes to hone my skills on.  Good pro and fun climbing. I'm not affraid to hike and would love to avoid crowds. Fire away with suggestions if ya got em :)
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 03, 2013, 10:48:20 pm
cannon-

Sticky fingers p1

Whitehorse-

Seventh Seal/ Looselips

Cathedral-

the Slot

bartlett-haystack-

Clear cut Crack
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: Admin Al on March 03, 2013, 10:52:20 pm
there's always the 3 5.10's at North End of Cathedral, that's as good a place as any to start. Bombardment is a great 5.8 as well and Intimidation is classic 5.10+. on Whitehorse the Ethereal Buttress is also good, with a classic 10 & 11. the second pitch of Hotter than Hell (5.8) and Tranquility (5.10) are also mega classics. lots to choose from in the 8-10 range right here in the Valley.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2013, 09:15:18 am
Whitehorse

Avenger
the 5.10 next to it that i can't remember
Powderfinger is decent and a gimmy 10+

Lichen It a Lot on Cathedral is really good... It's written up as a variation to Lichen it a lot but deserves it's own listing. Well geared, great rock et.. 10C

Vultures- hardest 5.10 crack ?  maybe, but good gear and nice climbing
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: xcrag_corex on March 04, 2013, 12:27:00 pm
Thank you guys! Did bombardment this past year and it was fun. Looking into some of these other routes. Thanks for the suggestions!!!
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2013, 05:14:15 pm
Bomb may be the best 5.8 i NH (fuck moby)
 >:(

Pine Tree is more hands but so good and 5.9 for sure

bartlett-haystack mentioned is pretty good , tr all routes or lead and it's out there so nobody hears your whimpers
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: xcrag_corex on March 04, 2013, 05:29:13 pm
Defiantly interested In pine tree this year and as far as whimpering in Bartlett.... I like a little suffering haha
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2013, 05:46:20 pm
OH- you'll suffer, remember I did these routes 20 years ago, they may be a little  stiff... very nice 10+   (cough) wide out there as well.

Owl's which is fucking awesome is 30 minutes beyond
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2013, 06:13:08 pm
Airation is kinda moderate these days
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: tradchick on March 04, 2013, 06:57:50 pm
As an addition to the above, Bon Temp Roulee out at Sundown goes at 5.9 and has a little bit of everything including a finger crack.  Takes gear all the way and is almost a full 60 meters.

Second pitch of Sleeping Beauty (at Whitehorse) is a stellar diagonal finger crack similar to Loose Lips only harder. 
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 04, 2013, 07:10:44 pm
Thanks trad- i could not remember the name of that line.. even after 3 beers

try the direct to Avenger- Vigilante 10c   TR  ( or x-y skyhook)
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: xcrag_corex on March 04, 2013, 10:42:59 pm
Tradchick. I stumbled across a posting about Bon Temp Roulee.... sounded awesome and the guy said great pro the whole way.

Strandman..... As for skyhooks....hahahah i think i'll pass for now :) that might just be a TR for me .
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: DLottmann on March 04, 2013, 11:13:51 pm
Bomb may be the best 5.8 i NH (fuck moby)

Slab climb disguised as a crack climb...

Sticky is better... that 5.7 new route on White’s Ledge (Albany) is better than Bomb, though it is also slabby... for pure 5.8 crack on Cathedral I think Black Lung and The Roof has best jamming.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 05, 2013, 06:51:03 am
Vertigo with the Crecent moon finish 8)
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: old_school on March 05, 2013, 09:56:37 am
DMan is correct when he mentions "Go West" at White Ledge. It is a total blast!!! Picture a fantastic and somewhat challenging 5.7 slab with gear at your fingertips for 85% of the way. All small gear, but it is there when you need it. Fantastic little find out there and nothing like I have climbed or experienced out here in the Whites. Truly one not to be missed!
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: frik on March 05, 2013, 10:42:16 am
On Cannon:
 Virtigo - three pitches (5.8, 5.9, 5.9) of stellar finger cracks if you wuss out an avoid the half moon.
 Union jack 5.9 - rap after the 3rd
 Slow & Easy 5.8
 1st pitch of Claustrophobia 5.8 
 harder:
    sticky fingers  10+ - whatever that means
    Meat Grinder 10+ 

 All of these are on excellent rock and have very good pro.

Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: DLottmann on March 05, 2013, 12:35:03 pm
... "Go West" at White Ledge... Truly one not to be missed!

This newly developed cliff is the main reason I'm kinda stoked for the rock season to begin... cant' wait to get back out there!

Go West:

(http://davidlottmann.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/looking-down-go-west.jpg)

Manifest Destiny:

<Manifest Destiny crack pic removed, too big for this website format> You can see it in the Trip Report linked below.

Trip report from that day: http://davidlottmann.wordpress.com/2012/11/20/back-to-whites-ledge/
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: kenreville on March 05, 2013, 08:42:14 pm
How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: darwined on March 05, 2013, 09:12:02 pm
How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
  aren't birds and they died HAND cracks though?
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 05, 2013, 09:28:55 pm
Last time I checked.. YA

Todd Skinner- ' a good crack is hard to find"
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: DLottmann on March 05, 2013, 10:17:01 pm
How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
  aren't birds and they died HAND cracks though?

Both have lots of finger jams, especially down low...
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: wiggins on March 05, 2013, 10:29:12 pm
 there's a nice finger crack at whites ledge bartlet that's a 10 (inside straight maybe) hunchback crack at lincoln crag's 10a loves gear and fingers,  echo's got a couple great 8/9's think mandrills fingers and 5.9, the horn at pway busy but tr'able, throw your fingers in the whip while your there.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: JBro on March 05, 2013, 10:46:07 pm
That little 5.9 above Upper Refuse is pretty nice fingers.

Edit: I guess it's called "Little Feat."

 
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: M_Sprague on March 11, 2013, 06:54:52 pm
Owl’s Left cliff has a few routes that may fit your bill. You will want to wait until after the black fly season though.  I have a nice unnamed 9+/10a finger crack in a corner that is pretty sweet http://www.mountainproject.com/v/nameles-corner/107788951   Jerry called it Nameless Corner in his book. By the time you get out there, I might even have a second pitch ready.
Owling Good Time is a great 80 ft pitch 5.9. The crux is a section of pockets, but the upper half is another finger crack in a corner. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/owling-good-time/106926250
These are both well protected, with bolted anchors.
Most of the finger cracks that are not in a corner out there are quite a bit harder, but if you do the 5.8 corner on the right side of the White Owl face that Jerry called Wingless, and continue angling up left , you can get to the anchors of White Owl 11+ for setting up a TR, a finger crack that is well worth playing on if you want to work on your technique. Continue a little more (5.8+)  to the next anchors (a nice route in itself) and you can check out Ward's 13c face climb too if you want to have a laugh. There are plenty of other routes there in the 5.5 to 5.10 range to fill out your day.

(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/91/60/106839160_medium_c124cd.jpg)
OM on Nameless Corner
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2013, 06:58:35 pm
That little 5.9 above Upper Refuse is pretty nice fingers.

Edit: I guess it's called "Little Feat."

Should be called  sucky and short !  Oh wait, that's someone I know  :)
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2013, 07:00:14 pm
mark- you got a lot of shit to do ..and about that other crag ????
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2013, 07:48:10 pm
Time's have changed- i guess Airation is a moderate finger crack...i used to think it 11C.. really and then good shoes came and you could do "NH" crack climbing IE face holds.. much easier.
Like Heather and Vultures and...

There still is Shadowline. though.. hardest "11" around
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: M_Sprague on March 11, 2013, 08:48:18 pm
mark- you got a lot of shit to do ..and about that other crag ????

You’re telling me, John. I have at least 20 pitches just at Owl's that I am excited to do, a bunch that I already have anchors on, and have cleaned and TRed. Get them done and I bet I would find another 20. And then there is Green's- another 2 dozen easily I really want to do, then Woodchuck, Painted Wall and stuff in Maine, and ...., and then there is bouldering, lol.

By the way, speaking of cracks, there are another 4 or 5 nice looking finger/hand cracks in the 5.9/10 range that I have set my eyes on at Green's. One at the Eastern Crags is a beauty I TRed, a 75-80 ft straight up finger and hands crack. I just need to finish putting the anchors in and one bolt at the bottom and a quick freshening up with the brush. I can't wait to have these ready for folks.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2013, 09:05:50 pm
i used to think it was just psycho (not Sycho) that these outback routes were so good.. i was doing them in the 80's and they seemd really good, but..

Guys like like Mark prove over and over,, some of the BEST lines in NE are a ways from the road. green Peace at green's is about as good a crack as can be found.. period. mechanic's on Washington is so good .10

and to plug- my route on the Captain is the best 11a slab in the state !
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: kenreville on March 11, 2013, 09:14:54 pm
There still is Shadowline. though.. hardest "11" around

5.11 my ass Mr.Strand. On a top rope it's a twelve move off the ground.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on March 11, 2013, 09:24:33 pm
No Shit-- even niland flayed away.  I give it 12b  more techy than possessed , but not as beefy  a 'moderate" 5.12  :'(
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: Chinos on June 26, 2013, 04:31:23 pm
check out Hall's Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Very off the radar! Littered with cracks of all grades! I think you would dig it...
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: xcrag_corex on June 27, 2013, 12:48:31 am
I'll definately have to make my way up there... I dig what you Chinos boys put up at Longstack and if you are recommending this place I'm sure it's spectacular.  8)
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: DLottmann on June 27, 2013, 09:25:05 am
check out Hall's Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Very off the radar! Littered with cracks of all grades! I think you would dig it...

Which one is Hall’s? EDIT: Nevermind, here’s the MP link:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/halls-ledge/107908183
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on June 27, 2013, 09:35:30 am
The one NOT on the hall's ledge trail
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: steveclimbs on June 30, 2013, 11:40:59 am
nobody mentioned youth challenge.  Great climb.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: strandman on July 01, 2013, 01:33:18 pm
one of the few Cathedral route to get downgraded..it was 11A for the f/a
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: marklynch on July 10, 2013, 02:00:20 pm
How about Birds Nest and They Died Laughing? Mandatory.
  aren't birds and they died HAND cracks though?

You know what they say about dudes with small hands?  JK.  ;)

Finger cracks for me . . .   :)

One person's thin finger crack is another person's face climb as I have found more than once.
Title: Re: moderate Finger cracks 5.8- 5.10
Post by: Admin Al on July 10, 2013, 05:37:18 pm
One person's thin finger crack is another person's face climb...

+1