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General => Bouldering => Topic started by: JChepes on June 16, 2013, 07:12:29 PM

Title: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: JChepes on June 16, 2013, 07:12:29 PM
Heading up soon with my parents dog and looking for some boulders to play on for the weekend.  Humphrey's, Whitehorse and the Covered Bridge blocks all look good but was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.  Under a half an hour approach would be great as Chippy(the dog) has a bum leg that acts up after a long hike. 
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: JoeC on June 16, 2013, 09:55:51 PM
The other whitehorse boulders.  Up by the Old Cabin is pretty good.  Cathedral Boulders, I know theres some other stuff.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: Admin Al on June 17, 2013, 07:36:17 AM
there is good bouldering at Humphrey's with a 2 minute approach!
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: Jeff on June 17, 2013, 09:46:32 AM
Although I don't boulder any more (too much titanium in my hips to want to jump off things), I remember good bouldering at Jockey Cap just over the Maine border--also REALLY short flat approach from the car! 8)
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: terminusnout on June 17, 2013, 12:54:34 PM
the base of humphries or Jockeys cap are both super easy approaches and quite a few good problems within a short distance of each other.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: steve weitzler on June 17, 2013, 01:23:29 PM
Cote Boulder in the wood at the base of Cathedral.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: terminusnout on June 17, 2013, 02:08:06 PM
cote boulder is radical!!!! So many problems and variations....and apparently even more now that a come along was used to rip out the boulders at the base.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: JChepes on June 17, 2013, 08:02:39 PM
Thanks for the responses.  Think Jockeys Cap will be on the hit list.  Might check out some of the blocks near Harts ledge if time permits.  Have only roped up in the North Conway area so excited to sample some of the boulders.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: mendonza on June 17, 2013, 09:04:43 PM
Which boulder is the Cote boulder?
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: Admin Al on June 17, 2013, 10:29:41 PM
Which boulder is the Cote boulder?

Right behind the kiosk at Cathedral.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: JBeta on June 18, 2013, 11:31:02 AM
The Harts Ledge Boulders are really good, better than those at the base of Cathedral or Humphreys. Definitely worth a look.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: DLottmann on June 18, 2013, 03:33:23 PM
Which boulder is the Cote boulder?

Right behind the kiosk at Cathedral.

Or right near the start of the Thin Air Trail (signed)...

I vote for Jockey's as having the best amount of problems with a short approach anywhere in MWV
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: M_Sprague on September 03, 2013, 11:14:04 AM
Since it was raining yesterday, I took a hike up to check out Harts Ledge. I agree with JBeta. The boulder field is one of the most impressive I have seen in NH. Some of them are as big as the biggest of Pawtuckaway and there was lots of high quality. I didn't even get down to see the lower cluster.

Access was really easy, 15 minutes along a nice, mellow logging road. Drive into Bartlett along rt 302. At the blinking light (Bear Notch Rd) take a right if coming from NConway, which takes you north through the village and across the Saco River. Immediately take a left onto Cobb Rd. In a couple miles it hooks away from the river and becomes Raccoon Run. Continue less than half a mile and it ends with a good dirt parking spot on the left. Hike in the logging road just right of the parking. Note: Handren's directions don't mention that the logging road immediately splits. Take the left, that traverses rather than the branch that heads directly up the hill. The logging road is nice and clear except  for one short spot of thick goldenrod and later a downed tree. When the trail hooks down to the old shack the boulders are very obvious on the hillside above.

Handren lists the 20' crack towards the right side here as a V7 and 3 stars. It looked classic to me
(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/98/78/108319878_medium_48a13c.jpg?1378219268)
http://www.mountainproject.com/images/98/78/108319878_large_48a13c.jpg?1378219268 (http://www.mountainproject.com/images/98/78/108319878_large_48a13c.jpg?1378219268)

The old sugar mapling shack
(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/99/59/108319959_medium_d841c4.jpg?1378219931)
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: DGoguen on September 03, 2013, 11:38:24 AM
The old sugar mapling shack
(http://www.mountainproject.com/images/99/59/108319959_medium_d841c4.jpg?1378219931)

In Bartlett, that's a condo!
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: JChepes on September 03, 2013, 03:37:35 PM
How clean did most of the blocks look?  Would this area be full sun leaf off?
I think I want to move into the shack and take care of the boulders.  Condo fee
include landscaping and plowing? 
The Handren guide also lists the long wall with more problems at harts.  Anyone
have an info on getting to them.  Looks like they are on a private rd.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: M_Sprague on September 03, 2013, 03:55:37 PM
It was a quick run in between rain showers and I wanted to get up to the cliff to have a look so I couldn't inspect everything, but I saw quite a bit that looked like it had been cleaned. It looked like a full mix of cleanliness.
The hillside is south facing and the forest is pretty open, so it should be pretty nice when the leaves are down.
I think the Long Wall cluster is just  a short walk towards the river from the shack, but I didn't explore further that way.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: JChepes on September 04, 2013, 08:41:11 PM
Nice. Thanks.  Been meaning to check those out.  Looking for a good
circuit to play on in the area.  Sounds like an easy approach also.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: Abpelton on October 03, 2013, 09:46:54 AM
I have been cleaning lines on the boulders for the last couple years at harts. Unfortuately I learned last night that the land had been bought and is now private property, extending all the way to the summit cliff. I have received the land owners contact information and I am in the process of finding out the status of accessibility. I would be careful if you decide to go out there. Apparently, there has been reports of breaking and entering in the main building. So cars in and out are being watched. Just a heads up. If you would like more info pm me.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: M_Sprague on October 03, 2013, 01:09:12 PM
You should take a look at the plat map for the area in the town hall if you can. Also see if it is under "current use" designation. While speaking with the owner you can let them know that climbing is now an explicitly protected activity by the state, meaning if climbers are allowed on the property no charge, they can not hold the owner liable for a climbing accident.. I think there was discussion of that here a while back if you need more info.

We just had that come up recently for some of the privately owned cliffs and boulders at Rumney. The Forest service folks had a talk with the owner and reassured him.
Title: Re: Bouldering in the North Conway Area
Post by: Abpelton on October 03, 2013, 04:59:23 PM
Thanks for the info. I will check it out.