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General => New Rock Routes => Topic started by: jayconway on July 01, 2013, 04:08:05 pm

Title: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: jayconway on July 01, 2013, 04:08:05 pm
Yes, I finally sent my project. In the end a small tweak of beta had me send on my first try using this sequence. Almost 2 years of bad beta! Here is the info

This route is basically a direct start to the Soft Iron aid route. Same start as the second pitch of Highway 61, then up the corner using some crazy beta, 13b-ish to here. Get a small shake then launch into a long series of hard moves, joining the soft iron route. Gain the hanging crack, and enjoy some awesome 12a climbing to join the finish of highway 61.

I placed 4 new bolts on new territory for this pitch, use one bolt on the iron route, and 5 pieces of gear, fingers, a .5 camalot, and a small nut.

Awesome climbing!

Jay

(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh310/jasonconway/difficultiesbedamned.jpg) (http://s259.photobucket.com/user/jasonconway/media/difficultiesbedamned.jpg.html)

(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh310/jasonconway/P6091201.jpg) (http://s259.photobucket.com/user/jasonconway/media/P6091201.jpg.html)

(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh310/jasonconway/PastedGraphic-1.jpg) (http://s259.photobucket.com/user/jasonconway/media/PastedGraphic-1.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: eyebolter on July 01, 2013, 04:53:59 pm
Looks awesome Jay, congrats.
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: M_Sprague on July 01, 2013, 04:56:37 pm
Damn, that's impressive! Congratulations!
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: JoeC on July 01, 2013, 06:40:51 pm
Nice Work Man!
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: David_G48 on July 01, 2013, 07:05:23 pm
Jay congratulations on your new route!
I only wish that I could try it but, you are in a special league of talented climbers that I am not worthy of belonging. I am elated that you were able to reach this goal through tenacity, hard work and skill.
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: darwined on July 01, 2013, 07:37:35 pm
Badass!
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: Chinos on July 01, 2013, 08:22:28 pm
killer!
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: JChepes on July 01, 2013, 08:42:12 pm
I bet Oran gave you get the good beta ;)
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: Admin Al on July 01, 2013, 10:45:16 pm
all I can say is WOW....
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: xcrag_corex on July 02, 2013, 06:26:44 am
Awesome!!!! Congrats man!!!
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: Climber57r on July 02, 2013, 10:32:23 pm
Right on man. That is sick. Thanks for inspiring and all the continued climbing tips. Keep killing it...
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: Smear on July 03, 2013, 04:41:26 am
Well done Jay!
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: JasonLaflamme on July 07, 2013, 11:41:12 pm
How you climb that hard in that humidity?  Put the Soft Iron up years ago solo.  Always thought that was nice rock and nice features.  Loved the orange lichen.  Put that thin soft iron pin in that small hole, thus the name of the route.  It was my grandfather's from his Alps climbing days; hope you didn't have to trust it.  It was early spring and I had climbed to just below that pin.  The cliff had warmed and ice was sheeting off the upper wall making it unwise to continue.  I returned a couple of weeks later having grabbed those specialty pins out of a box at home. The thing I always remember about this climb is soon after rapping to the ground upon completion, I was talking to Uve(?) Schnieder just to the right of the route when a gigantic dead tree came crashing down to the base of the route.  After we recovered from the shock and assured ourselves the coast was clear, we investigated the crater zone and found a huge raccoon lying dead on its back.  Congrats.
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: Admin Al on July 08, 2013, 08:03:17 am
How you climb that hard in that humidity?  Put the Soft Iron up years ago solo.  Always thought that was nice rock and nice features.  Loved the orange lichen.  Put that thin soft iron pin in that small hole, thus the name of the route.  It was my grandfather's from his Alps climbing days; hope you didn't have to trust it.  It was early spring and I had climbed to just below that pin.  The cliff had warmed and ice was sheeting off the upper wall making it unwise to continue.  I returned a couple of weeks later having grabbed those specialty pins out of a box at home. The thing I always remember about this climb is soon after rapping to the ground upon completion, I was talking to Uve(?) Schnieder just to the right of the route when a gigantic dead tree came crashing down to the base of the route.  After we recovered from the shock and assured ourselves the coast was clear, we investigated the crater zone and found a huge raccoon lying dead on its back.  Congrats.

Great story Jason. Thnx so much for posting...
Title: Re: Difficulties be Damned (5.14a) Cathedral
Post by: sneoh on July 08, 2013, 07:04:23 pm
Yeah, great story.  One can't make this kind of funny s*&# up!