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General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: ralbert20 on March 24, 2014, 09:11:12 am

Title: New England Cracks?
Post by: ralbert20 on March 24, 2014, 09:11:12 am
Another Monday, another question.

We were at TWall last week, and these two burly kids from New Hampshire came by. They proceeded to get on an offwidthy-horrible looking thing, and sent it no problem. I watched in fascinated horror, and asked them where they learned to crack climb, since I am ignorant of good/ hard cracks in the New England area. They replied (rather gruffly) that they are here, you just have to look for them. I know of a couple, but few "true" cracks, where you can't cheat with face holds.

So, now I want a list of vertical crack climbs in New England/ North East. I am very bad at crack climbing, and it is frustrating, since it should be easy. There is a crack. Get inside it. Don't fall off. Simple. Yet, every time I go west, I fumble, bumble, groan, layback and do just about everything wrong to get to the top of crack pitches.

So, what are the best cracks in New England? Obscure to the North End.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on March 24, 2014, 09:21:26 am
Most cracks in NE are foot intensive affairs IMO..Vultures, Airation etc..
Women in Love is really good ..Jack the Ripper...Slot..Piss Easy...Passing thoughts..Peanut gallery

and a real obscure one that i was involved in--Fear of Ejection at bartlett/Haystack..way out in the woods so no one can see, or hear you crying..5.11 stemming to 5" 
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: MT on March 24, 2014, 12:02:19 pm
At Cannon, Duet (5.7) and Duet Direct (5.10+), Slow and Easy (5.8), Sticky Fingers (5.10), Vertigo (5.9), etc. None are pure crack climbs, per se, but all offer an opportunity to practice the skills. Reppy's, but I think it's a bit overrated.

Go to the Daks and hit up Poko, Spider's Web, and Moss. Few crack climbs there too. I know, I know, upstate NY isn't NE, whatever. It's a relatively short drive and some of the best climbing in the area.

Good luck.

Mike 
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: ralbert20 on March 24, 2014, 12:41:36 pm
Yup, keep em coming. "New England/ North East." was meant to include the Dacks. Reppy's is great - just painful on the feet... I did it in approach shoes last time - much nicer!
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: eyebolter on March 24, 2014, 12:52:47 pm
Farley upper tier has some of the best.   Bulletproof is a 5.13 offwidth, and just left is Barndoor, stiff 5.10a.   Further left is Yosemite Crack (8/9) up an obvious right-facing corner to anchors; or step left before the anchors angle up left (9) to the top of the Peapod Crack.  Other finishes are bolted: 11a straight up (classic with the trad corner), and Scared Straight (11/12) which climbs over a huge detached finger to height-dependant crux moves.  Peapod Crack is a great (10b). 

No guidebook but from the new parking area hike straight up past the sport wall to the upper tier.  Maybe not as good as Crack in the Woods and Duet Direct in NewHampshire, but on par with the other NH classics.
 
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: old_school on March 24, 2014, 02:22:07 pm
Not hijacking or anything but have you guys been on They Died Laughing lately?? Jeezuz...it felt like someone had slathered it in grease. I remember the feet getting a bit polished the last time I climbed it (which was probably 12 years ago), but ran a lap on it after doing Diedre last summer...and I couldn't believe how sketchy it felt. Maybe I just turned into a crack climbing puss??? ;D :P
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: ralbert20 on March 24, 2014, 02:35:45 pm
You have to do "They Died" before everyone gets it all greasy with chalk. Early season, or right after a big rain is when it is best.

This qualifies as one of those climbs where you can cheat substantially - there are footholds all over the face, and even some holds if you don't feel like jamming... Add in the ledge rest, and it is not really a "true" crack like I am thinking.

Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: kenreville on March 24, 2014, 03:18:48 pm
Take MT's advice and go to the Spider's Web in the ADK's. If you can get up everything that's there, consider yourself a damn fine crack climber.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: DLottmann on March 24, 2014, 03:49:58 pm
...Reppy's is great - just painful on the feet... I did it in approach shoes last time - much nicer!

Truth! Approach shoes + Reppy’s = WIN. Will never lead or follow that pitch again in rock climbing shoes...
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: eyebolter on March 24, 2014, 05:18:47 pm
Take MT's advice and go to the Spider's Web in the ADK's. If you can get up everything that's there, consider yourself a damn fine crack climber.

Agreed.  It is the Waimea of the trad crack walls in the Northeast (sorry North Conway....).  Most of the grades are kind of sandbag, but Drop Fly or Die (11a) isn't that bad for the grade, and takes a classic line up the high part of the wall, with a Henry Barber FA for history.   

At Pokomoonshine, Gamesmanship at 5.8 is the crack Reppy's wishes it could be (in its' dreams).  My non-climbing girlfriend seconded Reppy's in the 80's with her feet on the slab the whole time because her feet hurt so badly in the crack.  Not my definition of a classic, though it does look good from the ground.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: M_Sprague on March 24, 2014, 08:13:22 pm
I've got the same feeling about Reppies. Now if you could turn it up past vertical we would have something, but of course it would fall over on you.  :P
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: Jeff on March 25, 2014, 02:38:09 pm
There are cracks in Connecticut, and that IS in NE; Caveat--the grades are stiff-- check out Ragged, East Peak and other areas for test pieces and "sand bags"! Rock dries earlier than in NH (especially this year), there is virtually NO fixed pro and the bugs don't usually get TOO ferocious for too long.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: M_Sprague on March 25, 2014, 03:39:29 pm
I never go there anymore, but I learned a lot climbing in CT in my early years, mostly following Whitey around. The jamming of flared cracks has stood me well for other places and I think I learned how to use little spoogie feet well there. Gear can be a little funky though. Traprock is the only place I have ever had gear pull and basically decked. That experience taught me to trust well placed wires a lot more than small cams.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: eyebolter on March 25, 2014, 06:38:49 pm
Connecticut does have some great cracks.  Unconquerable Crack at 5.9 (+) is better than anything at the the North End (sorry again North Conway).   Subline, Carey Corner, Vector (probably the first 5.9 in the country despite being rated 5.8) are all great routes at Ragged.  Lots of other great cracks at the outlying crags as well.

Also don't overlook "Endeavor to Persevere" (10) in Great Barrington, probably the best crack in Mass despite my Farley preference.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on March 25, 2014, 06:41:13 pm
Unc is good, but better than the Slot ??? maybe
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: M_Sprague on April 10, 2014, 09:32:48 pm
Here you go rob http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106860338 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106860338)
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: Admin Al on April 11, 2014, 07:38:59 am
Screaming Yellow Zonkers & Zonked Out...

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=338

Powderfinger & Steak Sauce

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=943
http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=944


Crack In The Woods

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=121


Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: ralbert20 on April 11, 2014, 07:51:44 am
Sprague - Ha! 12a! I do want to check out that cliff though!

Al - I wandered around for 3 hours one time looking for Crack in the Woods... If I hadn't been there in the winter and seen it, I would not believe it exists... I have walked by Powderfinger a bunch - it looks hard! Steaksauce is right out of my league. I got on SYZ last year for the first time. That is an amazing climb!
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 11, 2014, 10:14:04 am
IMO powderfinger may be a bit over the top..it gets much easier after the first 10'..Meatgrinder at Cannon and Duet Direct.....Jack the Ripper
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: eyebolter on April 11, 2014, 03:36:32 pm

Al - I wandered around for 3 hours one time looking for Crack in the Woods... If I hadn't been there in the winter and seen it, I would not believe it exists... I have walked by Powderfinger a bunch - it looks hard! Steaksauce is right out of my league. I got on SYZ last year for the first time. That is an amazing climb!

Go when the leaves are off the trees and you will find it; I did first try.    Gets my vote for best handcrack in New England.  While we were there a bear came down around the end of the cliff through the woods.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: M_Sprague on April 11, 2014, 04:41:22 pm
Does the fixed anchor of Crack in the Woods still need replacement? I have been wanting to check this crag out for a long time and wouldn't mind replacing it and giving a bit of a scrub if needed. How is it getting around to the top where you could rap in? and how long a rope would you need to reach the ground single strand?

Also, what is the deal with the old pins on Pumping Station? I would imagine they would be rotted out by now. I suppose it would be blasphemous to even broach the subject of whether they should be replaced with stainless bolts 1 for 1 if modern clean gear doesn't protect it. I haven't even seen a picture of the route, so have no idea, nor do I know Tom's current thoughts. Some are fine with modernizing gear when replacing and it makes sense (like Jimmy Dunn), others take it as a personal affront. It sounds like a great route. It would be a shame people aren't getting on it because the fixed gear is rotting out and it needs a brush.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 11, 2014, 06:59:02 pm
I would guess Tom would be OK with it but I'm not positive..he worked really hard getting those pins in.. I'll get you in touch if you like.

Pumping is a good line,, way steep and has a nice crack at the end..hand & fisty  !! i think only one of the bolted lines has been re done.

Crack anchor was a horror show years ago..it kinda mossed over so you can't see it  Good, it was a hex and stopper.  brilliant climb
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: M_Sprague on April 11, 2014, 10:12:06 pm
Thanks, John. I'll try to get out there this spring and have a look, probably once the bugs are out. I am trying to actually get some climbing in before then. I can scrub and bolt in my bug suit. I think Tom Nonus gave me Callaghan's # last year. I'll see if I still have it. If not, your help reaching him would be great.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: SA on April 12, 2014, 06:32:26 pm
Crack in the Woods is perhaps the best pure "Yosemite Type" crack in New England. I just came back from Yosemite yesterday, climbing with a true crack master Donini for 10 days. Crack in the Woods would be rated in the 11 range if it was in Yosemite.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 12, 2014, 07:11:38 pm
it's a gimme at 10C..really it's closer to 9+...  given that possessed is 11C   RIGHT
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: eyebolter on April 12, 2014, 07:27:29 pm
Didn't seem 11 to me when I did it, but then I'm good at hand cracks for a sport climber.

I must say that my buddy the Droid who was pretty good at 5.10 face couldn't get ten feet off the ground on it, but then he couldn't hand jam to save his life.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: ralbert20 on April 14, 2014, 08:34:48 am
Oh man! I am in TROUBLE then!  ;D
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: Maxsuffering on April 17, 2014, 05:25:36 pm
A second thumbs up for the Spiders Web. Drop, Fly or Die is the one route up there which everyone says isn't a sandbag, but Mellor will still look you dead in the eye and tell you its's "certainly no harder than .10c." Seems to me about as hard as Lichen Delight.

Crack In The Woods would be 5.11 at Indian Creek.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 17, 2014, 05:29:27 pm
Ouch ! 11 at IC ???   i will be out there in a couple of weeks, maybe I'll compare it to all the IC 11's i have fallen on
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: Maxsuffering on April 17, 2014, 05:38:02 pm
I'm going to be in The Creek in a couple of weeks too... let me know, I don't drink but I'd certainly have a seltzer with the legend. Should be entertaining since I haven't climbed in five months.

Maybe I'm not the person to ask since I've only been on C.I.T.W. once but I was definitely working for it, seemed at least as hard as the .11s I did at I.C. last fall.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 18, 2014, 06:43:06 pm
"legend"  HAH  not at IC..!!  You really should check out sushifest if your there may2-3..Nature does a great job..it's $30 I think

and of course mississipi half step and quarter of a man..they will get you in shape.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 23, 2014, 09:31:38 am
i have been slacking on this thread;
Budapest..one of te best pitches on Cathedral
White..a real ass kicker,,technical and sustained. Also a really good top pitch that can be rapped into
Passing Thoughts..i haven't done the whole route, but P 4? is outstanding
Peanut gallery\
Lichen Delight/lichen it a Lot

Sleeping Beauty
Avenger

nice moderates

Stewarts,, Greenpeace  at Greens

Meat grinder
Duet Direct

cannon

Stairs...Back Sundown... bartlett Hatstack  etc
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 26, 2014, 10:48:15 pm
I do not remember Sleeping beauty being a crack climb in the jamming sense? P1 an akward flared chimny? to steep face climbing with discontinous cracks for pro? P2 A finger traverse out left? not a crack climb like Moby, Generic etc.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 27, 2014, 11:33:35 am
Maybe i don't remember so well....i thought fingers on P2 ?
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on April 27, 2014, 07:05:02 pm
Sleeping beauty was amazeing fun climb but I certainly do not remember any of the kind of crack climbing that I would tape up for?
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: kenreville on April 27, 2014, 08:48:19 pm
correcto tradman.

john you no remember so well.
Title: Re: New England Cracks?
Post by: strandman on April 28, 2014, 09:18:08 am
You guys made me get out Websters'  "diagonaling finger crack"  :D  maybe not tape material, but certainly a crack.. Virtually nothing in NE requires tape...Roofer madness..Raptor Roof  ????