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General => Epics and Accidents => Topic started by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2014, 11:18:01 AM

Title: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2014, 11:18:01 AM
There were rescue personnel at Rumney this past Sunday for a couple hours and a LifeLift helicopter landed in the Camera's field to take the patient to Hancock Hospital. From second hand reports, somebody was lowering and cleaning The Wimpy Gilman Ridge ( a bolted 5.3 sport climb that looks like a mini Whitney Gilman) and then let go and pendulumed into the rocky ground. Apparently she suffered a broken ankle and possible broken ribs. Hopefully the ankle was not busted up too badly and she will recover quickly.

Lessons to learn: Be aware of basic physics.  When lowering to clean an overhanging or angling route, stay clipped into the belayer's side of the rope with a draw (two or lockers would be safer) and don't unclip the lowest bolt. Lower to the ground still clipped to the rope and clean the last bolt from the ground. Be aware of the extra length of rope needed. Better yet, have somebody clean the draws while seconding. If the second doesn't want to or can't go all the way to the top, it may be possible for the leader to clean the upper draws on the way down for them, but only clean down as far as it would be fine for the second to swing from. The second would only have to clean to the point where it is safe to swing.

Be a good belayer. The belayer should never have let the climber make this basic mistake. It is part of your job to watch out for your partner. If you are bringing a beginner out, make sure they understand the ramifications of cleaning an angling route and how to do so safely.

Thirdly, have heath and or climbing accident insurance. Call in the rescue people and a relatively miner accident can quickly turn into a major incident that will put you in the poorhouse.

If anyone has more details or corrections, please post up.

On a related note, it was the first hot weekend at Rumney this year and it was crowded, with tempers on edge and people distracted. If you are going to climb in this situation it is important to remember to give everybody a break and be mellow with each other, not get in fist fights over parking or make unnecessary noise. The noise is not only unpleasant to others, but it is dangerous. I wanted to take a crossbow to a few people this weekend (quieter than a machine gun).
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: DLottmann on June 09, 2014, 11:32:41 AM
Thanks for posting.

Hoping for speedy recovery but airlifted for a "broken ankle and possible broken ribs"? Any first responders there think there were more serious injuries?

And since it's been a hot topic; helmet?
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: Max Forbes on June 09, 2014, 01:12:44 PM
There must have been more going on if rescue personal decided that she needed to be airlifted. I am curious to hear more. Hopefully everyone remembers to use caution in an area that careful practice is often forgotten because of its popularity.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2014, 01:41:46 PM
There is a report on MP that she may have been on Constipation Prize, a 5.8 in back of the gully, missed a clip and fallen on to the rock below. Again, third hand info from a person involved in the rescue via somebody climbing around the corner.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: markvnh on June 09, 2014, 02:05:16 PM
I can't imagine why someone wouldn't second Wimpy Gilman and clean it. With that said if it was Constipation Prize I can understand the potential long fall. I climbed it via the "right hand variation" as opposed to staying on the arete and could not make the last clip and wound up running it out to the anchors. I think it would be a nasty fall if you fell from that area before actually clipping the anchors.

Hopefully the climber isn't too badly hurt and gets better soon!

As an aside about parking - everyone knows how crowded it gets and how hard it is to park some days. It frustrates me when I see three or four cars show up each with a person in them meeting at the parking lot instead of meeting and parking behind the historical society / church and bringing one car to the crag. Inconsiderate or ignorant - maybe both.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: Pete Jackson on June 09, 2014, 02:07:27 PM
There is a report on MP that she may have been on Constipation Prize, a 5.8 in back of the gully, missed a clip and fallen on to the rock below. Again, third hand info from a person involved in the rescue via somebody climbing around the corner.

OUCH. Both of those situations have some serious injury potential. Here's hoping for speedy recovery.

The Little Cannon area in particular is a tricky, accident prone spot. I go there with kids and beginners all the time, and it's important to keep alert. On one hand, the gulley does make it easy to keep track of your whole party. On the other hand, you have a sketchy fall out the bottom of the gulley, and keeping eyes on two sides of the gulley at once be prove a challenge.

Good analysis, Mark! Be safe!

As an aside about parking - everyone knows how crowded it gets and how hard it is to park some days. It frustrates me when I see three or four cars show up each with a person in them meeting at the parking lot instead of meeting and parking behind the historical society / church and bringing one car to the crag. Inconsiderate or ignorant - maybe both.

Probably both, but I think it's mostly ignorance. I'm not sure people know to do it. As for those of us who do know better: I know I'm guilty of not carpooling on some days. And really, I should be walking there. :) Thanks for the reminder.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2014, 02:44:03 PM
I for one am guilty of the single person in a car taking a spot and feel guilty about it, but I usually have my trunk stuffed with gear for cleaning and bolting and have to run back to my car often for it.

The usual overflow parking in the field across the street has been closed lately (the owner has been sick sadly, I believe) so the parking problem is more acute.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: markvnh on June 09, 2014, 04:27:42 PM
...I think you're excused from the "one person in the car rule" Mark!
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2014, 04:38:30 PM
Plus my mother said I was special anyway :P
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: strandman on June 09, 2014, 05:57:14 PM
it is SUPER important for the belayer to pay attention all the time..its a pretty basic thing..or so i thought.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: David_G48 on June 09, 2014, 07:16:23 PM
       " it is SUPER important for the belayer to pay attention all the time..its a pretty basic thing..or so i thought."

   John
 I think your assuming they were not paying attention which might not be the case. The belayer may have closely watched the whole event unravel. Paying attention and understanding what to do (IMO) are 2 different things. The belayer and the climber were not able to foresee the repercussions of their actions from what I read into it. Again, just my opinion and we know how much opinions really count.
David
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 09, 2014, 10:44:51 PM
No actual first hand report yet. We can't really gain much by speculating besides reminding each other to be careful.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: sneoh on June 09, 2014, 11:27:40 PM
Best wishes to the injured for a quick and full recovery.

A few years, the Parking Lot Wall land slide incident, did that also resulted in a med flight?
I should remember as I was climbing at The Meadows that morning.

Either way, not too bad of a carry out from Parking Lot Wall or Wimpy Gilman.  A carry down from Jimmy or any of the Northwest crags would be epic.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: strandman on June 10, 2014, 10:52:53 AM
I was going with marks comment about be a good belayer..the belayer is in charge, especially when lowering some one, communication is always essential.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: old_school on June 10, 2014, 11:33:47 AM
I had a beginner up in that area a few years back and watched a guy with his girlfriend climb Whimpy Gilman. He was showing off a  bit and skipped a few bolts on the traverse (snickering that they were too close together) not thinking about his second following the route. She fell at mid height and fortunately was close enough to the bolt keeping her off the deck but not by much. They both laughed and I packed up and headed out. I am with Strandman. The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end. Sure hope the climber recovers quickly. I hate hearing stories like this  :(
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: sneoh on June 10, 2014, 02:30:08 PM
I packed up and headed out.
I've done that.  I don't need to get wrapped up in another rescue.

The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end. Sure hope the climber recovers quickly. I hate hearing stories like this  :(
+1.  Makes me a little sad and upset at the same time.
Years ago, during my first Gunks .10 lead, I got so excited that I climbed the last 25 feet of 5.5 or so with no gear, leaving the last piece as the one which protected the cruxy roof, before the traversing easy finish.  Boy, did I get an earful from my second, Ajax, when he arrived at the belay.  He had to take my last piece out, do the crux roof move while staring at a long traverse after it with no gear.  Lesson learnt!  Still a great moment for me tho  :)
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: eyebolter on June 10, 2014, 03:48:03 PM
I had a beginner up in that area a few years back and watched a guy with his girlfriend climb Whimpy Gilman. He was showing off a  bit and skipped a few bolts on the traverse (snickering that they were too close together) not thinking about his second following the route. She fell at mid height and fortunately was close enough to the bolt keeping her off the deck but not by much. They both laughed and I packed up and headed out. I am with Strandman. The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end. Sure hope the climber recovers quickly. I hate hearing stories like this  :(

"Be sure to clip all the bolts for an inexperienced second, as it trends to the left."

You can write it in the guidebook, but will they read it?
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: strandman on June 10, 2014, 05:45:55 PM
Nope... especially if they won't to "onsite" ???
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 10, 2014, 05:48:18 PM
I copied that quote into the MP description, Ward. Hope you don't mind. Hopefully a few more people will read it.

Apparently a compound fracture of a leg was involved, so the air lift makes more sense. No more details yet.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: strandman on June 10, 2014, 05:58:52 PM
Just for the info..did that rescue bill ever become law in NH ??? I hope never to get hit with another med flight bill.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: M_Sprague on June 10, 2014, 06:43:23 PM
I hope nobody calls 911. If I am ever hurt. Just do what you can, put a stick in my mouth and drag me out or if I am really bad, haul me back up and throw me off again.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: sneoh on June 10, 2014, 08:02:10 PM
Compound?  That's got to HURT.  OUCH!!
Good thing it was not a very long carry-out from Wimpy Gilman.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: strandman on June 10, 2014, 09:07:30 PM
I hope nobody calls 911. If I am ever hurt. Just do what you can, put a stick in my mouth and drag me out or if I am really bad, haul me back up and throw me off again.

just for you Mark, i would place a #3.5 ,rigid friend in your mouth, let it expand and drag you out 8) OR if you were really fucked, several DEEP drill holes in the forehead

your welcome
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: old_school on June 11, 2014, 07:26:35 AM

"Be sure to clip all the bolts for an inexperienced second, as it trends to the left."

You can write it in the guidebook, but will they read it?

I know Ward   :-[
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: lucky luke on June 11, 2014, 08:34:00 AM
I am with Strandman. The leader obviously has responsibility for his/her second and the belayer is 100% responsible for the safety of the climber on the other end.

Just for to talk and see more option, as the safety of the second is link to the safety of the leader, I can agree with Strandman.

As me, i can't resist to jump in the discussion.

I always said to my beginner, with who I climbed in remote area, that as a second he most be think at his own safety at 100%. That means to place himself in a position where he won't received any thing as he was at the anchor, to look if his leader place pro to protect him in a fall, to feed the rope so his leader will do a better job, to be ready to take a leader fall without getting in danger, to be able to think as he climb (take experience), to anchor himself to the anchor, to gave the equipment properly to the leader (which is easier when the climber his relax),

I told them that they most insure his safety at 100% and the leader most assume is sagfety as 100%: so the team is safe at 100%.

If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%.

As a leader, bringing a new climber, I will climb on route that I know to see if I have a good second. And if I have a good second and he want to lead... I will help him to do aid climbing to place and load as many as 200 nuts and cam before leading trad, bring him over his helmet to know his limits safely, etc...to have a good second.

in that scenario, this leave very few places for a second to "check" if his leader don't do mistake??? so, open to friendly discussion i hope.   
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: DLottmann on June 11, 2014, 05:08:04 PM
If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%.

This is why we can't discuss things seriously with you LL. NO ONE (besides you) thinks like this...
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: pappy on June 11, 2014, 06:35:16 PM
I hope nobody calls 911. If I am ever hurt. Just do what you can, put a stick in my mouth and drag me out or if I am really bad, haul me back up and throw me off again.

The understanding we always had down South was that if you f^^k up, did something stupid, and suffer the consequences (I've done a stunning number of stupid without suffering the consequences, which only indicates I am a higher life form ::)...), then we hit you in the head with a rock and split your gear. Fortunately, the only time I've actually been in this situation was at Poke-O with my leg doing a 45 degree thing. After we got things settled down the doc who happened to be climbing there said, 'We could call an ambulance...' which was ridiculous, and then my partner showed back up with half of a dog crate he scavenged at the trailer below, shoved me in it, and slid me out. Perfect. Especially the symbolism.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: tradmanclimbz on June 12, 2014, 06:21:30 AM
If yer gonna get hurt Poco is certainly one of the easier places to do a carry out.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: lucky luke on June 12, 2014, 08:11:10 AM
If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%.

This is why we can't discuss things seriously with you LL. NO ONE (besides you) thinks like this...

You did the army? you should know that every one most do his job so the team is more effective. In rescue it is the same. It is when some one try to do the job of some one else that the think go wrong.
Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: DLottmann on June 12, 2014, 08:30:28 AM
It is when some one try to do the job of some one else that the think go wrong.

That makes sense, and is easy to understand your point. I don't see how anyone would have seen this as your point from:

"If the second think at his safety at 80% because he watch his leader at 20%, the teams is safe at 80% of 100% and 120% of 100% (which is impossible) so the team is safe at 80%."



Title: Re: Air Lifted off the Wimpy Gilman Ridge
Post by: Pete Jackson on June 16, 2014, 09:08:22 AM
It is when some one try to do the job of some one else that the think go wrong.

That makes sense, and is easy to understand your point. I don't see how anyone would have seen this as your point from:


And that is the difference between sport and trad ethic.