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General => Ice & Winter Climbing => Topic started by: Admin Al on December 04, 2014, 02:19:47 PM

Title: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 04, 2014, 02:19:47 PM
At the end of last season I did a couple of videos with videographer Tom Henry. I had kind of forgotten about the for a while, but here is the first in the series. It's about making v-threads. This is my first attempt at doing this kind of thing, so it's a kind of interesting. Hopefully some might find it useful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WePH16Y7EbI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WePH16Y7EbI)
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: neiceclimber on December 05, 2014, 03:57:21 PM
Nice job. I've never thought about scratching a line with my tool to help line up the holes. I'll have to try that out the next time and see if it improves my success rate. Also a good point about doing it from a good stance. A couple of years ago 3 of us v threaded off a 4 pitch climb. For the last rap the first down stopped on a slabby ledge couldn't get the screws to connect, we made fun of him then each of us missed again. We repositioned on a small ledge a little higher up and hit it on the first try. Having both hands free, not semi hanging, and off the calves did the trick.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: rbirk on December 05, 2014, 04:47:40 PM
Nice! Looking forward to the rest of the series!
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: crazyt on December 05, 2014, 06:23:08 PM
Thumbs up! 
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 05, 2014, 09:18:28 PM
Thanks guys More stuff coming soon.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Mike Grobicki on December 06, 2014, 10:42:11 PM
As someone just getting into ice climbing, this video was great. Now I just need to get a long screw and find some ice nearby to practice on.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: perswig on December 07, 2014, 07:00:36 AM
^^
Mike, remember that early season it's easier to find pond ice than vertical ice deep enough to practice.  Also eliminates some of the variables like stance, falling ice so you can focus on getting depth and angle dialed.

Dale
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 07, 2014, 08:32:22 AM
Like everything, it's all a matter of practice. Dales idea about pond ice is a good one. A place like Willies is also good. You can stand there and take your time to work out all the angles.

BTW for the most part stance shouldn't be an issue. After all, 99% of the time you are doing this at your anchor or from a screw placement.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: markvnh on December 07, 2014, 06:58:44 PM
That's a very well done video Al. I actually still carry a winter draw with a water knotted sling just for this reason.

And what Petzl tools are those? And how are those kincos working out?
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: tradmanclimbz on December 07, 2014, 08:57:04 PM
Essentual skill to have. Our 1st rap off the top of the prom today was equalized 13cm threads :o We did get 16cm threads for the 2nd rap 8)
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 07, 2014, 11:32:10 PM
That's a very well done video Al. I actually still carry a winter draw with a water knotted sling just for this reason.

And what Petzl tools are those? And how are those kincos working out?

ThnX for the kind words Mark. Those are my original style Ergo's. They are my second set.  I really like them.

The Kincos are great. I used them on Friday when it was wet and about 25 degrees and they were just fine. At under $15 they are a steal!
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: markvnh on December 08, 2014, 11:12:36 AM
...gotta get me some Kinco's!

And I thought they might have been older Ergo's but just wasn't sure!
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: ridgerunner on December 09, 2014, 07:40:18 AM
Well done Al ! When possible, I like to have the axis of the V thread set vertically. I read somewhere that it is somewhat stronger.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: ridgerunner on December 09, 2014, 07:51:22 AM
Here is the link : http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4315
Somewhat geekie, but hey.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: markvnh on December 09, 2014, 09:11:11 AM
...thanks for sharing that link RR - that was pretty interesting reading!
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 09, 2014, 04:54:17 PM
I seem to remember Jeff Lowe talking about how vertical alignment of ice screw anchors was better as well. There also was a test and article in the AMGA magazine a couple of years ago that confirmed the idea of using a rebored screw hole. RR,  ThnX for the article link. I think this is the main point to take from it:

Anderson Threads (Vertical V Threads) are stronger than horizontal Abalakovs using a 60x60x60 configuration and made with a long ice screw (22cm). Additionally it was observed that the greater surface area enveloped by the V Thread the stronger it is with the ideal configuration being 60x60x60. I found that trying to do construct an Anderson Thread is more awkward than doing a horizontal Abalakov mainly due to difficulty in visualising the angles in the vertical plane, but maybe practice will make perfect. Alternatively given in testing both configurations were strong enough to hold an abseiling climber you could stick with doing your V threads horizontally if you are challenged by doing them vertically. Whatever method you use it is worth noting that they did get some failures at very low loads so I would suggest you still be in the habit of backing up your V thread (whatever configuration you use) for the first person down.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: ridgerunner on December 14, 2014, 12:06:33 PM
Truth. Back it up and send the heaviest climber down first.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 14, 2014, 03:48:51 PM
FWIW I've also seen people fish their skinny rope through the thread hole and rap off that. First time was Kevin Mahoney on Goofers.
Title: Re: How-to make a v-thread video
Post by: Admin Al on December 14, 2014, 03:49:12 PM
Truth. Back it up and send the heaviest climber down first.

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