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General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: ralbert20 on May 16, 2016, 01:19:11 PM

Title: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: ralbert20 on May 16, 2016, 01:19:11 PM
If you were going to attempt 3 (or more) routes in a day on Cannon, what would they be, and what would your strategy be?

Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: NEAlpineStart on May 16, 2016, 01:36:53 PM
I would go up WG, rap, Up Moby, rap Consolation Prize, up Lakeview, hike out. Skinniest doubles I could find and a very light rack. Approach shoes for about 80% of the climbing. Very cold beers in a cooler at the car.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: frik on May 16, 2016, 02:43:39 PM
Geeze i'd never willingly rap the Gillman...  you can descend the trail and cut over to the Talus pretty quickly if you want it in your itinerary.  A pretty reasonable plan is Union jack & rap, Vertigo &  rap,  finish up Indented slab, Conn prize, Lakeview or a combination.  You can also descent off the top of lakeview and cut over to the base very fast.

I'd be very careful about rapping down from the top of conn prize. There are good anchors up there but also still quite a bit of loose stuff just waiting to be knocked down on unsuspecting folks at the bottom.... which, once above pitch 3 you wont be able to see.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: NEAlpineStart on May 16, 2016, 03:01:09 PM
Geeze i'd never willingly rap the Gillman...  you can descend the trail and cut over to the Talus pretty quickly if you want it in your itinerary.

I've heard the "cut over" this section of talus is pretty horrible. Didn't Webster or Swain say it was the worst bush wack of their life?

While I've never rapped WG I think with double 60's you could get down the WG in 2.5 raps, probably leaving a carabiner or two behind. BD would be tempting but I know that's ended in a broken arm in one case.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: frik on May 16, 2016, 05:25:23 PM
Ive come off the Gilman via the trail and then across the talus many times. If you're heading home it isn't the way to go, but for getting on another route it's fine. I guess it helps to know the area. As for rapping down the Gilman; the combination of loose rock and crowds seems to make it a rather rash idea.

You're tempted to rap the dike...really ?
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: ralbert20 on May 16, 2016, 05:48:46 PM
David, your plan was pretty much what I had in mind as well - WG, Moby, rap, Lakeview. Ideally would like to get to the top on each route, but that descent from Moby just does not seem worth it.

Bonus, drive to North Conway after and hit Thin air->black lung and finish on Standard on WH...

That would be a long day...
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: NEAlpineStart on May 16, 2016, 06:13:23 PM
If I was looking for a Trifecta I would do something like Pinnacle, Moby, Sliding Board.

One thing about Cannon that I think gets overlooked is the amount of solid climbing that can be had if one does not think "full route". First two pitches of Duet, Sticky Fingers, Slow & Easy, Reppy's, Vertigo, the finish up WG is an awesome day.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: strandman on May 16, 2016, 06:16:22 PM
Fuck that danger shit..Lab Wall to P7..rap..DD to P 8 ? and tthen  drive to cathedral on do the Prow..thats a LONG day..took us 18 hrs i bellieve
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Nick Grant on May 16, 2016, 06:25:55 PM
1.  Reppy's
2.  Slow and Easy
3.  Sticky Fingers

—and then you can take a swim in Echo and hit Polly's for lunch!
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: pcooke on May 16, 2016, 06:38:52 PM
Last summer my friend and did the following:

Vertigo (first 5 pitches, quarter moon variation), Moby Grape (6 pitches, walk off and cut back to talus), WG (3 pitches doing direct variations). 

2:15 base to base for Vertigo, 4 hours base to base on Moby, maybe 2 hours climbing WG... didn't time the schlep off back to the car. Time in between routes waiting for Reppys to clear, eating and wishing we could sleep before doing WG.

Back at the house in N. Woodstock with plenty of daylight without even doing an alpine start.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: NEAlpineStart on May 16, 2016, 07:58:30 PM
pcooke that sounds like a great day
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: ralbert20 on May 17, 2016, 09:32:12 AM
pcooke, indeed! Nice!

My only trifecta so far was: W-G, beginner's (WH), bombardment-upper refuse. I believe we were done around 3:30pm...

Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: pcooke on May 17, 2016, 12:52:21 PM
Mind-opening day, Dave... never would have thought we could do those routes that quickly. Even now, I'm having a hard time wrapping my mind around how quickly we did each set of pitches.

It's nice not needing to add driving between routes in the link-up for sure, but some of the Cannon/Cathedral/Whitehorse options are pretty cool!
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: strandman on May 17, 2016, 02:53:45 PM
Is there not a rap route on Moby yet ?  Suprising, but I guess the rope hang ups would suck

A Whithorse/Cathedral/Hump day has some great possibilities as well  Robinson Crusoe- Intmidation- Children's would be awesome
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: JBro on May 17, 2016, 07:03:31 PM
Shimberg bolted a rap route off to the side of Moby maybe 15 years ago, but a bunch of the locals gave him shit and he removed it soon after.

Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Admin Al on May 17, 2016, 09:25:11 PM
Shimberg bolted a rap route off to the side of Moby maybe 15 years ago, but a bunch of the locals gave him shit and he removed it soon after.

I thought he WAS a local?
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Nick Grant on May 17, 2016, 10:51:14 PM
Franconia/Littleton/Easton guys gave Jim crap about the bolts?  (He made the long drive all the way up to the Notch from way down there in Campton.)
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: JBro on May 17, 2016, 11:16:32 PM
Shimberg bolted a rap route off to the side of Moby maybe 15 years ago, but a bunch of the locals gave him shit and he removed it soon after.

I thought he WAS a local?

Ok, the older locals. Or maybe better said as the Cannon regulars, because some didn't necessarily live super close by.

Unless my memory is failing me that's what happened.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: JBro on May 17, 2016, 11:35:21 PM
And Al - you're a local at Cathedral. Go put some convenience bolts somewhere on Cathedral and see how long they last.  :)
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: SA on May 18, 2016, 07:12:18 AM
About 15 years ago, my son and I did the 1st 4 pitches of the DD, rapped off and did all of Moby Grapes, then drove over to Cathedral and climbed Recompence. A long day.

I'm turning 70 in July. Better get after this stuff now, while you still can.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: TC on May 18, 2016, 07:32:58 AM
Two years ago my buddy and I linked up Whitney-Gilman, Pinnacle, Standard Route on WH (with the 5.7 variation to keep the grade consistent), then Funhouse to Upper Refuse.  According to MP stats, it's 26 pitches and 2,950' of climbing.  We linked pitches and simul-climbed a lot of it.  Did we use the Auto Road?  Oh, hell yes.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: strandman on May 18, 2016, 09:22:20 AM
And Al - you're a local at Cathedral. Go put some convenience bolts somewhere on Cathedral and see how long they last.  :)

AH...locals......no comment
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Admin Al on May 18, 2016, 04:07:51 PM
[quote a
And Al - you're a local at Cathedral. Go put some convenience bolts somewhere on Cathedral and see how long they last.  :)

true dat!
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: strandman on May 18, 2016, 05:58:36 PM
Shim can be shifty MoFo,,that's for sure 8)

Glad i never got the "honor" of being a local
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: JBro on May 18, 2016, 06:03:22 PM
Shim can be shifty MoFo,,that's for sure 8)

Glad i never got the "honor" of being a local

I only aspire to being a local at the best brewpubs. Some day I will fly.

Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: frik on May 19, 2016, 05:17:31 PM
A little perspective on the moby rap line: This happened back in the days when there were conga-lines of aspiring Cannon climbers on the route every half decent weekend day from mid-May till the end of October. Whatever his reasons were, I believe Jim thought he was doing a service when he put that line in. A few people thought it was just a convenience and pretty much degraded from whatever experience of commitment etc the route possessed.
I wasn't there, but i'm pretty sure Jim wasn't "given shit" in the normal sense of that phrase.  A more accurate description would be; he was presented with an alternative point of view by one.... um senior fellow. To his credit, he understood, and voluntarily removed the line without any griping.

And, I'm pretty sure no disparaging remarks abut Rumney were made.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: strandman on May 19, 2016, 05:37:34 PM
Well, shit..that's no kinda fun :o
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Nick Grant on May 19, 2016, 08:36:57 PM
"Senior fellow"  C'mon, man, spill the beans!  Who dat?
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on May 19, 2016, 10:23:42 PM
That thing is still a conga line... I am certain a bunch of fixed anchors would make it even worse......
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: johngassel on August 10, 2016, 01:33:05 PM
My buddy and I did 4 routes on Cannon earlier this summer. 

I think the key to doing it is to be the first party on Moby or Whitney G which is getting increasingly hard these days with so many people climbing on Cannon.  Here's what we did:

1) Start on Moby ~ 5:30a
2) Top out on Moby and descend, using the cutoff trail, which took a while to find back to the base of the cliff
3) VMC DD (first 4 only) and rappel
4) Vertigo and rappel
5) Whitney G and descend back to the car ~9p

We weren't going extremely fast either, just trying to cover a lot of ground in a day in prep for our trip to the Diamond.  More is certainly possible.  Look to go back next year and improve by probably taking VMC to the top.

We used double ropes and a pretty light rack.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: AlpineIceRock on May 24, 2017, 02:28:08 PM
I think when considering doing Cannon 2x, 3x etc. in day, one should consider walking off mandatory. I would even go as far to say walking down to the parking lot after each route and starting from there gives you the true Cannon experience.

If you can agree that part of the Cannon experience is having to walk 30-45 minutes to the base of a climb and then walk back down to your car, making it more alpine than say Cathedral (obviously) or Whitehorse, which is basically multi-pitch cragging, then doing Cannon 2-3x in a day should involve lots of walking.

Thoughts?
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: kenreville on May 24, 2017, 06:55:12 PM
My thought is although you think it's mandatory, sure seems like a waste of time and energy when you could be climbing. You wanna go hiking? Go hiking.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: dave095790 on May 24, 2017, 07:24:19 PM
I also think going to the parking lot is not even a real analogy to climbing in the bigger ranges, where you can do your approach and descent in the pre-dawn and after sunset hours. 

Granted the approach and descent may be technical, but that is taken into account for your overall objective - simply hiking around is not the same as moving pitch-after-pitch in technical terrain.   
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: JBro on May 24, 2017, 08:04:01 PM
No need to go all the way to the parking lot when there are nice cool caves to stash your beers only part way down the talus slope.

Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: AlpineIceRock on May 25, 2017, 12:08:38 AM
I understand you don't *need* to go to the parking lot - thats not the argument. Also, climbing Cannon 3x in a day has nothing to do with climbing in the bigger ranges. If I wanted to go climbing for the sake of climbing and do no hiking, why not just go to Rumney or Cathedral? Part of the challenge of climbing Cannon is all the factors involved - one of which is having to hike up and down the talus and trails to and from the parking lot.

I'm just saying, if you want the true cannon experience and to be able to say "I climbed Cannon 3x in a day", I think having to walk the talus 3 times is fair. I'll admit it's pretty nuanced but you don't get to start climbing Cannon on your first climb of the day from most of the way/halfway etc. up the talus field or a short scamper across the base of the cliff, you have to start from the parking lot. You don't do it because it's easy, you do it because it's hard. Also, climbing 4-5 pitches of an 8 pitch route and rapping doesnt count as climbing Cannon. Not sure how it ever could. It wasn't like you didn't go to the summit, you didn't even get to the top of the route. Who cares if it's easier technical climbing above.

I appreciate your input. It's all arbitrary anyways but I think some have more validity in claiming multiple ascents in a day versus others.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: frik on May 25, 2017, 12:34:53 PM
Perhaps you can post a note inside the sign-in box as to what counts and doesn't count as "climbing Cannon" and what folks need to do in order to have the "true cannon experience"....


 At one point the "true cannon experience" often involved; bottle rockets, hangovers, & trundling...... but what did we know?
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Admin Al on May 25, 2017, 02:54:31 PM
At one point the "true cannon experience" often involved; bottle rockets, hangovers, & trundling...... but what did we know?

LOL...
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: The other tomcat on May 25, 2017, 03:13:07 PM
Climb Moby Grape, downclimb Lakeview, climb Whitney-Gilman.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: JBro on May 25, 2017, 06:14:08 PM

 At one point the "true cannon experience" often involved; bottle rockets, hangovers, & trundling...... but what did we know?

It doesn't any more?
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: kenreville on May 25, 2017, 10:40:54 PM
Climb Moby Grape, downclimb Lakeview, climb Whitney-Gilman.
+++1

I've soloed WG- considered MG..... down climb Lakeview? Now there's a Cannon day.

To hell with scree pounding.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: NEAlpineStart on May 26, 2017, 10:15:12 AM
I think for it to be a "true Cannon ascent" one must hit the geographic summit of Cannon. It's only .6 miles and 850 feet higher. Then instead of returning to the parking lot you should return to the true starting point of any Cannon climb, sea level. York, ME is probably your closest sea level which is a quick 150 mile round trip jaunt. Anything less is definitely not a "true Cannon experience".

Joking aside the cool thing about setting goals like this is you define what constitutes success... if you feel like you didn't really climb Cannon three times because you didn't return to an arbitrary parking lot (does it have to be the climber lot? Lafayette Place is easier IMO), then you can hit the parking lot. If rapping and getting more technical climbing in faster is your thing so be it.

Whose got the bumper sticker "No one cares you place tricams"? Saw that at Whitehorse a couple weeks ago and LOL'd.
Title: Re: Cannon - 3 routes in a day?
Post by: Jeff on May 26, 2017, 06:54:38 PM
I'm getting a sticker made that reads " No one cares you don't like tri-cams" ;D