NEClimbs.com forum

Yesterday I saw fixed line all the way up Lobster Claw Gully... a large group looked to be training for something... or maybe they were just avoiding the clusterF that is WLHT.

If it is an established climb if i do not get it in two or 3 tries I lose interest. Big ice climbs I sometimes run away with my tail between my legs and have to come back annother day when I feel braver.  New rock routes depending on how much cleaning is involved 6 days is pretty normal for me.

Hey, This is Courtney Ley (not Lea, but very close )

Ugh...I knew that too!! Thank Jeff Lea!!   

If I can't get it that day I lose interest.

Hey, This is Courtney Ley (not Lea, but very close )  Depends on the time of year.  I climbed Wait Until Dark Gully in the Great Gulf in November and I approached it from the Great Gulf trailhead..  There was not a ton of snow, so the approach on the trail was easier, but negotiating in the ravine itself can be a battle.  Here's the story: http://neice.com/2013/11/the-great-gulf/

Once the snow starts flying in mid-winter, it's tough to access, but totally worth it.  Any approach would be long.  I would recommend, not going up Airline or Valley Way (not very close  ) but heading up Nelson Crag or climbing a ravine in Huntington crossing over the Auto Road and then dropping down.  In Spring, this approach would be mint.

Also Gabe's approach is good two cents.

 I understand exactly what you guys mean. Take the fixed lines down!! It takes away MY wilderness experience. No screws either. I can't stand seeing the holes left in the ice by those things. Don't even get me started on crampons. People should be able to get up the trail without the aid of something some company built for you. Those crampons scratch the rock and ice and leave marks all over the place. It ruins MY experience looking at all that irreversible damage.

 You shouldn't be able to hire a guide either. That would solve everything.

 

 Rock it's once or twice/week outside and once or twice/week inside. I know the gym is lame and all that... Maybe it doesn't count but I got two really good friends since high school into the gym. We use the gym to keep in touch and hang out. Now I have two partners that I know I can trust and know the day out won't be a shit show.

 I been keeping track of days out on ice the last couple seasons. To me, it's much more important than what grade. Last year I got out 30 days. This year I beat my record! I'm at 38. One more trip outta Baltimore and I'm past 40 days.

What's the longest time you have spent working a route ? Days ? Weeks ??

Right is my preferred final descent, and for an added bonus you get to pass the pump and fill up on water.

+1   

Purchase in advance at Maine Rock Gym or EMS (Maine Locations only).  We have some great sponsor gifts we're raffling off (ropes, packs, monthly climbing passes, etc).