NEClimbs.com forum

From Brian Delaney's wife and daughter:

We finally have word from the facility managers of the world. (They do run the world!)

Brian's Celebration of life will be held on Aug. 10th at 4 p.m. at Scarborough High School Auditorium. This gathering is being generously sponsored by Hannaford Supermarkets and Scarborough Community Services. This will be a celebration of Brian's happy life. His family asks that guests forgo the usual mourning attire in favor of joyous colors, preferably Hawaiian-style shirts.

Aug. 16th at 1 p.m. (rain date of Aug. 17th at 1 p.m.) is when his family and friends will say goodbye at Cathedral Ledges in Bartlett, N.H. (just outside North Conway). The ceremony will begin at the base of the cliff in the picnic area. Those who are able will join his family in a 20-minute walk to the top of the ledge. There will be a shuttle for those who can't make the walk. Hana's chorus, Musica de Filia, will be performing.

In September there will be a charity race in Brian's name to benefit the AMC Youth Program. It will be called the FLY'N BRIAN 5K Walk/Run. Details to follow.

For those individuals who are not able to join us at any of these times there also will be a brief ceremony at the top of Otter Cliffs in Acadia National Park on the morning of Memorial Day, 2015.

These events are open to all whose lives were touched either directly or indirectly by Brian's spirit. Thank you for spreading the word.

Best,

Kristine and Hana

New cafe just opened in Rumney... Rumney Rocks Bistro.  Had a great post-climbing meal there the other day.  Great food prepared with local produce, good quantities and a selection of cold beer (with menu additions to come, say the owners).  It's on the right, just before you get back to the highway (ie on your way out).  These guys are just starting out, give them a try if you're looking for somewhere to eat or just have a beer on the patio...  (No connection to the place, just a satisfied patron!)

I've never rotated the top biner' as the OP is talking about... it would be a rarity if there was a feature/nub thing I was worried about...

I think the more common "mistake" is people rigging quickdraws so that the bolt and rope biner's are not facing the same way. Most folks know the rope biner gate is best facing away from the line of travel to the next bolt... and Petzl has demonstrated how easy it is for the quickdraw to un-clip itself from the bolt when the gate faces towards the direction of travel...

so...

both gates should always face away from direction of travel...

Except that I find it much easier to clip when the gate is facing me.   I use only wire gates on the bottom end for that reason.  I know coming unclipped is a possibility, but has never happened to me in 37 years of climbing.   However I am talking about well protected sport routes; if it is a single piece between me and eternity I do point the gate away or (better) use a locker.

Suck up the pain Roberts. Tape the ankle and get at it!!!

The high alpine meadow at the base has more ticks that I have ever seen anywhere. Friends have been covered by hundreds of baby ticks!!!!!

Hate thicks too. Had to take medecine because I found some on me after the climb.

For rabies there is oral rabbies vacination that work in europe for the rabbies deasise. For ticks, there is no vaccins against it (at my knowledge) but it is possible to gave to animal some medecine against ticks (http://www.merial.com/EN/PressRoom/PressRelease/Pages/NEXGARD_en.aspx) as the cost of the disease increase and the emergence of the disease is growing, maybe it can be a solution for regional association to do treatment to stop the progress of the danger.

I am going to be in north conway from friday morning to monday night. Definitely want to climb. 5.9 to 5.10 routes,
 swap the pitches or I can lead I have my equipment.

I would love too take some goodies..BUT..shit i can't even take vitamin I anymore..ever...sucks.

It will be there when you come back from your trip, and hopefully a few more routes. Good to hear it ended up not being broken.

I want to get out there before my trip!

It will be there when you come back from your trip, and hopefully a few more routes. Good to hear it ended up not being broken.

Yikes! How's the ankle Dave?

The ankle is doing much better thanks. Saturday night I was sure I had fractured it but x-rays were negative. The swelling is way down but it still has some pretty sharp pain at times and is hard to walk on. That's what I get for going sport climbing 3 weeks before a big trip to the Sierras!

Heidi and I were really bummed Mark about not being able to get out there.