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Epics and Accidents / Re: Climber triggered avalanche in Huntington
« Last post by lucky luke on Today at 05:49:15 PM »
The serious point is that Mt W avy victims possess an impressive list of educational and professional accomplishments, i.e., very smart people can do very dumb things.

climbing like driving truck, lifter, and some other works are not in the same range as physic and chemistry. In physic and chemistry, it is possible to study and learn formula and have success.

It is a question of time. One can study for five hours and go to the exam or you have a second to decide to go to the right or left to avoid an avalanche. As the decision are faster, the brain use shortcut to react to a situation. Those short cut are not always good. A shortcut is call an heuristic.

Yes it is possible to make your own shortcut, by climbing....but most people, and particularly those who take a course to be safe, instead of an addition to your experience, are going to use those heuristic which is easy to teach.

So they are not stupid because they made a mistake, they are stuypid because they follow heuristic. 
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Ice & Winter Climbing / How's the ice look?
« Last post by Nemesis on Today at 05:44:19 PM »
Anybody have news on the condition of the ice?  This week, and the avy bulletin,  hasn't exactly psyched me up to make the drive tomorrow morning
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New Rock Routes / Re: Pine Mountain
« Last post by slacker on Today at 05:33:44 PM »
I don't think there would be ice out there on the main slab.  It is a very quick drying cliff with very little seepage in the summer.  To the right of the main slab there is a crazy gully that splits the slab form the Pulpit the other rock formation out there.  The gully might have something but I don't think it would be worth the hike.

And Jon,
All I can say is the rock out there is crazy.  It's a Pinkham thing!!!

Best,

Matt Barker
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Climber triggered avalanche in Huntington
« Last post by eyebolter on Today at 03:58:59 PM »

The serious point is that Mt W avy victims possess an impressive list of educational and professional accomplishments, i.e., very smart people can do very dumb things.


The bottom line is, if you want to be 100% safe ("smart') then you shouldn't be in there at all.

I climbed there tons in the 70's and I would say in retrospect that 90% of the time there was some degree of avalanche danger.    The day I got avalanched the forecast was "low,"  though it was then changed to "Very High," lol.  It sure didn't seem any worse than all the other times I hadn't been avalanched in exactly the same place.
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Climber triggered avalanche in Huntington
« Last post by jshefftz on Today at 03:41:13 PM »
Glad to see everyone focusing on the most important finding from my ESAW presentation on airbag pack effectiveness!

Okay, seriously though, the stat I cited (jokingly?) was specifically for Harvard affiliates (grads, students, employees) -- any other Ivy Leaguers are safe.
(Well, maybe not when climbing in Huntington -- I never realized the grim story behind that name, but then again, similar in a way to Airplane Gully and Airplane Bowl...)

So the ppt slides in question are #s 8 & 9 here:
http://tinyurl.com/airbagppt 
A participant took notes for all the presentations, and also recorded audio for some of them, including mine, with the Mt W stats at around 3:11 to 4:15 here:
http://tinyurl.com/airbagaudio

The serious point is that Mt W avy victims possess an impressive list of educational and professional accomplishments, i.e., very smart people can do very dumb things.
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Climbing a Frozen Tree
« Last post by kenreville on Today at 02:55:36 PM »
How come you didn't paraglide off the top?
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Gear Exchange / La Sportiva Boulder X size 40
« Last post by lukeweiss on Today at 10:03:51 AM »
I just bought a pair for my sister-in-law, so they are brand spanking new, un-worn (except for her trying them on!).
They didn't fit her, so now they must move on! They are great approach shoes - not the stickiest, but definitely one of the most comfortable approach shoes out there.

$75 to the first size 40 interested!
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New Ice Routes / Re: Wade For It, WI4
« Last post by old_school on Today at 09:09:58 AM »
is this on the hillside littered with small rock outcrops?

Yes! Exactly!

I did another route around the corner to climbers right...cool narrow gulley but haven't gotten back there to take pictures. Will do this season when the river freezes!
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New Ice Routes / Re: Wade For It, WI4
« Last post by Chinos on Today at 08:05:26 AM »
is this on the hillside littered with small rock outcrops?
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New Rock Routes / Re: Pine Mountain
« Last post by Chinos on Today at 08:00:14 AM »
i don't think there would be any ice up there Al, but its always worth looking! The approach might suck in the winter tho...
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