Now here's a post that is thoughtful and is the kind of knowledge
that actually benefits beginners.
I think you grossly under estimate the number of people on this forum who have/can on-site "trad" 5.10. Including Duet Direct. You're preachin to the choir.
If your "definition" (whatever the hell that is) of climbing excludes any route that has bolts on it, you're missing out on a shitload of superb climbing. That's your loss.
My definition is not associate with bolt, but safety. If you climb 20 hours sport route, you are going to make harder move than some one who climb 10 hours and do 10 hours of safety training. white horse, sliding board is a trad route with bolt.
I learned in Quebec where the weather condition is similar to those found in mt Washington. I was the second or third party to climb a route, when it was not a free ascent, and loose block, crack fill with dirt, unsafe pillar are daily climbing for me. I am aware of the situation and I had more than one hold in my hand after it broke.
Be ready to any eventuality and climb hard after, trad, and climb hard and after it will be easy to protect your self,,,sport...is two mentality very different. With bolting route, you can climb hard. In general, I am more dangerous in a bolting route, like still in saigon than in repentence, because I think that I am safe on bolt route even if a hold can broke. If I was a sport and I go climbing yellow wall, I will solo the 5.8 because I am good enough to free the 5.11. For a sport climber it is normal because a beginner is a 5.9 climber and he his an expert at 5.11.
And some times, the run out is the attraction (placing tricky stopper, rp or tricams equalize, to avoid rope drag,etc.) It is hard rope management skill, a parft of climbing. Using a bolt, a 70 meter route to avoid the anchor, etc and the route don't worth it.