Recent Posts

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There is only one way to settle this controversy once and for all.







Ok, not really. We will have to do it like this....






Let me know if you're interested in getting together at Schillings Brewery in fabulous downtown Littleton, NH.

If we get a lot of interest we can set up a poll to pick a date. If we get only a few people we can just wing it in the thread. So for now just indicate here if you are interested.

 
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Ice Screw Sharpening & Super Stubbies
« Last post by IceScrewSharpening on Today at 04:06:44 PM »
Hi Everyone.
I've been an ice climber and a machinist for the last 20+ and 30+ years. Tired of the old style tooth design on my old BD Turbo Express, I started sharpening ice screws on a CNC milling machine. I created a design that is close to the new Laser Sonics and gave my screws a major boost in performance. These screws are sharp, very sharp. I've even sharpened brand new screw that I just bought because they didn't meet my quality standards. There is absolutely no heating of the screw either, unlike careless grinding can cause. The Grivel sharpening machine cannot reproduce any of the new generation tooth profiles.
I'm able to reproduce this on virtually any brand of screw, BD, Petzl, Grivel, DMM, Simmonds etc...

I also make Super Stubbies on a made to order basis. For more information see my website

Website
http://www.icescrewsharpening.com/
Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ice-Screw-Sharpening/478933888835729
or email me at
icescrewsharpening@gmail.com

Because setting up the maching is expensive and time consuming for just a few screws, I do what I call a batch run. Which means I collect all screws by a certain date and then machine them all at once. Don't worry I do 1 rack at a time so as not to mix up everyone's screws.
For now I'm doing it twice a year, spring and fall.

The next Batch Deadline is Friday April 24 2015.
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Conditions / Re: Possibly Appropriate Link to Ice @ Lower Elevations
« Last post by old_school on Today at 11:33:19 AM »
++++ 40.2ºF in Bartlett this am! Rain coming this evening--Most appropriate!

UGH  :(
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by old_school on Today at 11:20:37 AM »
At a re bolting weekend a few years  ago, i did a hand drilling thing,,,,,scared the shit out of people.

Ahahaha... ;D
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by strandman on Today at 10:57:54 AM »
If a route has been done a certain way for years, then it stays that way (excepting gear upgrades)

Now,,about those beers.. :-*

does your "then it stays that way…" statement apply equally to all routes??

if so, how about Maestri's "Compressor Route??"

I'm no expert, it sounds like a route that was "done a certain way for years.."

Shouldn't it then, (by your standards) "stay that way…"??

Sounds to me like a "if it's good for the goose, it's good for the gander" sort of thing.

ed e

Maestri doesn't count because he prolly drank wine..not beer

At a re bolting weekend a few years  ago, i did a hand drilling thing,,,,,scared the shit out of people.
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by old_school on Today at 09:59:58 AM »
RE the bolting issue...
FWIW If you are interested in replacing bolts on existing routes the local MRS will usually provide the bolts. Speak with Rick at IME about it. If you are a relatively unknown quantity, they will likely want you to be accompanied by a local, at least the first time.

Cheers

WE have done a few too, AP Treat, Worm Drive, etc...all bolts literally 4-5" from the original bolts. MRS donated the bolts and hangers for these projects.
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Gear Exchange / SOLD - "Super Stubby" screws
« Last post by Mike_R on Today at 09:57:30 AM »
Set of 2 stubbies, 7 cm and 8 cm.  More info here:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fs-super-stubby-ice-screws-set-of-2/110243410

SOLD
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by old_school on Today at 09:48:23 AM »
Grammy if you're going I will definitely be there.  We should go climbing first!  :)

It's a date!!  ;)
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by old_school on Today at 09:47:07 AM »
We used to drink Sierra at the Cathedral road,,,um,,that stopped. :police:

Only savages drink cheap beer....if this thread goes to 5.11..will it be whiskey ?

Oban and Talisker...may be more like 12b??
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Conditions / Re: Possibly Appropriate Link to Ice @ Lower Elevations
« Last post by Jeff on Today at 09:10:27 AM »
++++ 40.2ºF in Bartlett this am! Rain coming this evening--Most appropriate!
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