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 1 
 on: Today at 07:44:37 AM 
Started by Art Mooney - Last post by Art Mooney
FS: Full set of 8 BD Cams $250.00 and Alien Cams $30 each
email: art@mooneymountainguides.com


 2 
 on: Today at 06:36:16 AM 
Started by markvnh - Last post by markvnh
SL,

Thanks for the quick response and beta! It's nice to know that we've already done the crux. And your description of the last moves on that second pitch to the belay are spot on. Felt 5.6 spicy - since it was a bit far from the last bolt!

And I will assume the rest of the route climbs similarly as Lost from a gear perspective. I'll bet it's a pretty nice route the whole way and great addition to the routes in the area. And probably doesn't see much traffic since I couldn't find any info.

When I get to doing it I will be sure to post some info.

Thanks again SL!

Mark



 3 
 on: Yesterday at 11:43:31 PM 
Started by markvnh - Last post by snowleopard
mark you are correct.  The route takes pretty much the most direct line up the middle from the toe of the slab.
8 pitches if I recall.  The 2nd pitch you did is the crux (5.6ish friction moves at its end to get to the belay).
All double bolt anchors except last 2 pitches belay in trees.
Kurt Winkler and Peter Gamache did it without the bolts around 2006 (added the bolts after)
They still have not gotten around to writing it up. 


 4 
 on: Yesterday at 07:55:08 PM 
Started by markvnh - Last post by markvnh
I vaguely remember reading somewhere about a route between Lost in the Sun and A Bit Short - but couldn't find it now.

Climbed Lost today and definitely did the second pitch of this route. Actually the first pitch we climbed to the higher of the two bolt belays and then the slab that was bolted - and quite nice. But it certainly wasn't Lost.

We did finish on all the Lost pitches though. However there is a line of bolts that still trends towards the center of the slab.

Anyone know what this is and what it's rated? Before I get myself in trouble.

Thanks everyone in advance for any beta!

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 05:45:41 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by Chinos
if you go on mountain project and look up the route there is a link to it on vimeo

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 12:50:12 PM 
Started by v10mike - Last post by CD
nice work!

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 10:22:04 AM 
Started by danf - Last post by plytheman
On the topic of Tree Keys, I went up it yesterday for the first time this season and passed a loose feeling block that was much larger than I'd like to drop on my partner's head. I chalked an "X" onto the block which sounded pretty hollow when I knocked, and there's a smaller rock right next to it up and right a little that had some serious wiggle to it. I know Humphrey's has a reputation but this seemed like a pretty prominent hand/foot hold along the route and, being one of the easier ones, I'd assume it's more popular. I was just top roping it and didn't pay attention to how many bolts up it was but I'd guess it was around 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up? Maybe when someone goes to fix the bolt they can take a look at that too and see if it's as sketchy as I thought it was.

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 08:04:50 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by SA
John,

I just talked with Tom, at the Brian Delaney memorial event. He had recently done the Direct/Direct, and is getting out a lot.

 9 
 on: August 27, 2014, 11:41:02 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Trad is about stamina.

Do you have some other game that people can play to improve there technique and stamina?

stamina is some thing hard to understand. Some power lifter will do a 25 meter route for a first time and will be completely exhausted at the top because they can't sustain the stress to be in expose situation. It happen also when you are concentrate for more than 45 minutes, time that you use the glucose in your muscle without recovery, in a lead. You climb with difficulty the crack arrived at the anchor and place two cam in a weird place, just aside two good nuts placement. It is stamina but for mental effort.

Some one who didn't have the ability to sustain prolonged mental effort will prefer bolt, which is easier for them. I think that the hardiest part of the first two year of leading is to workout our mental stamina. I remembered when I begun climbing how happy I was when I found a piton in a route and how I trust them. Today, with more stamina, I know that one mos backup practically every piton.

So, if you play the game and are six people, you can make three party. As a team, and to climb fast, you will have to have good rope management. You most also have good timing with your partner so no loose time will happen at the anchor. as a little competition, it will be also good to push your limit because you won't think just about the danger , but also to win the game. So, in staying concentrate on your technique, you will increase your mental stamina.   

 

 10 
 on: August 27, 2014, 07:37:12 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by strandman
For those who have not seen it..I am tryingto get a link posted.   TC's 7 year goal to free Benedictus on Cannon..he looks SO young  ::)

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