Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by lucky luke on Today at 10:14:40 AM »
Now here's a post that is thoughtful and is the kind of knowledge
that actually benefits beginners.

I think you grossly under estimate the number of people on this forum who have/can on-site "trad" 5.10. Including Duet Direct. You're preachin to the choir.

If your "definition" (whatever the hell that is) of climbing excludes any route that has bolts on it, you're missing out on a shitload of superb climbing. That's your loss.

My definition is not associate with bolt, but safety. If you climb 20 hours sport route, you are going to make harder move than some one who climb 10 hours and do 10 hours of safety training. white horse, sliding board is a trad route with bolt.

I learned in Quebec where the weather condition is similar to those found in mt Washington. I was the second or third party to climb a route, when it was not a free ascent, and loose block, crack fill with dirt, unsafe pillar are daily climbing for me. I am aware of the situation and I had more than one hold in my hand after it broke.

Be ready to any eventuality and climb hard after, trad, and climb hard and after it will be easy to protect your self,,,sport...is two mentality very different. With bolting route, you can climb hard. In general, I am more dangerous in a bolting route, like still in saigon than in repentence, because I think that I am safe on bolt route even if a hold can broke. If I was a sport and I go climbing yellow wall, I will solo the 5.8 because I am good enough to free the 5.11. For a sport climber it is normal because a beginner is a 5.9 climber and he his an expert at 5.11.

And some times, the run out is the attraction (placing tricky stopper, rp or tricams equalize, to avoid rope drag,etc.) It is hard rope management skill, a parft of climbing. Using a bolt, a 70 meter route to avoid the anchor, etc and the route don't worth it.   
2
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by kenreville on Today at 09:46:24 AM »
A bit of "epiphany" for me - LL even discounts FA which were not done GU, drill on lead,  with no prior inspection on rap or cleaning of vegetation and dangerously loose blocks.  Though there were a fair share of FA in NH were done this way, the NE wx tend to cause cracks to quickly get filled up with dirt and vegetation and the freeze-thaw cycles cause loose blocks to form almost every spring.
Purity and single-mindedness, tho admirable in certain ways, have to yield to reality and practicality when a situation calls for the latter.

Hey LL. Pay attention.   ^^^^^Now here's a post that is thoughtful and is the kind of knowledge
that actually benefits beginners.

I think you grossly under estimate the number of people on this forum who have/can on-site "trad" 5.10. Including Duet Direct. You're preachin to the choir.

If your "definition" (whatever the hell that is) of climbing excludes any route that has bolts on it, you're missing out on a shitload of superb climbing. That's your loss.

 
3
Climbing Gear Q & A / Broken stinger crampon
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on Today at 09:07:02 AM »
50 days on these poons. Got to the top of Shoestring and noticed that I was missing a mono point. the good news is they climb so well with such good secondary points that I never noticed. The 2 guys I passed @ the chockstone said they thought they hears something metal fall when I passed. If that is where it happened then I would have still had some ice to climb and one more steepish bulge. never noticed anything ammiss. I suspect the bolt broke as I did have eyes on it when putting them on. I did not do a real inspection with a wrench. the mono point has some wiggle with this system which is never good for the life of a bolt that is under impact and load.
4
Epics and Accidents / Re: too many accidents
« Last post by lucky luke on Today at 09:03:04 AM »
i LOVE climbing fast..maybe not as fast as before and the big thing is you gotta accept the risk..Royal Arches a good speed target is pretty easy..just over an hour...but if you fuck up..both most likely will die

Cut close to the edge...carefully

I saw a father and son party in royal arches...in trad ethic... the father pull on gear on 5.6 to make the move, did bad route finding and the anchor was completely...well, there was no anchor. In a fall, both of them will have died

I report the problem to the ranger and some thing was done, fortunately. I should have stay with them, but my other partners just want to bail because they don't want to see the accident. The boy had 13 or 14 years. a weakness from me, I bail too.
5
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by lucky luke on Today at 08:48:36 AM »
shit man i wasn't looking to grade cannon, yes it's a serious cliff, as is trad climbing.... i was  trying to put u in a box, u offend,

Here a text wrote in july 2005 by dogboy, bold aund underlie is from me:

"
Quote
Lead a bunch of easier stuff...for several years, if necessary.  Climbing outside is not climbing in the gym...bolts or no bolts.  Sport routes get bolted by different people, differently.[b/]  Some sport routes are fairly safe, some are dangerous (go climb at Sundown if you want to experience some burly sport routes).

You also need to build your ability to asses situations correctly while climbing outdoors. This comes from years of experience...climbing outside.  Gyms are set up to be safe, fun, training facilities.  The cliffs, whether Rumney or Half Dome, are not there solely for your fun.  They bite back, and sometimes hard.  You need to be experienced enough climbing at levels you are comfortable with in order to minimize the risk of getting whacked.

If you're too bored leading bolted 5.7-5.8, I'd suggest finding a mentor and learning how to trad climb. 5.6 trad will keep you entertained for a good, long time.


What I am saying is not new. If you go back earlier in the time, you will see that the number of accident associate with sport are very well describe. it is different to say that sport and trad are different than to say that trad is better or worse than sport.

I don't think that if you climb a route on top rope, the next week you can lead it the next week. Trad climber are not so good. If you climb sport and there is bolt...yes you are better than us.

duet direct is very technical and a good workout to the yosemite. The crux is a slaby undercling in a crack in the diedral on the right. well protect with stopper I think, not sure.   

 
6
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by sneoh on Today at 08:17:15 AM »
A bit of "epiphany" for me - LL even discounts FA which were not done GU, drill on lead,  with no prior inspection on rap or cleaning of vegetation and dangerously loose blocks.  Though there were a fair share of FA in NH were done this way, the NE wx tend to cause cracks to quickly get filled up with dirt and vegetation and the freeze-thaw cycles cause loose blocks to form almost every spring.
Purity and single-mindedness, tho admirable in certain ways, have to yield to reality and practicality when a situation calls for the latter.
7
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on Today at 07:49:44 AM »
One of the harsh realitys of ageing is that often our best climbs turn into casual outings for the younger generation despite or perhaps because of their poor sport climbing ethics ;)
8
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Prozac
« Last post by markvnh on Today at 07:42:28 AM »
Pretty bold and damn fine climbing. Amazed at what gets done early these days! And I was happy with getting up a thin LHMW yesterday!
9
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by sneoh on Today at 07:29:00 AM »
hopefully the beginners are smart enough to not believe everything they read on the internet ;)
+1.


I on sighted Duet Direct as well, but it doesn't count because  I'm a sport climber.
Ha, ha, ha.  Well put, old man.
Next thing LLL will say is he onsighted Fastest Gun at ADK.
10
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by eyebolter on Today at 07:24:59 AM »
I on sighted Duet Direct as well, but it doesn't count because  I'm a sport climber.
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10