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 1 
 on: Today at 07:49:14 PM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by Abpelton
A friend and I have been scrubbing boulders here all summer. If you want a tour I'd love to show you around. Send me a pm any time.

 2 
 on: Today at 04:15:02 PM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by joev9
We usually spend a week each summer right near there, so I'm psyched to get some more info...

 3 
 on: Today at 03:34:22 PM 
Started by Echo - Last post by Echo
Anyone who frequents here climb these lately?

So pitch 3 of Here Comes the Sun at Hump's looks like a fantastic pitch of 5.7 first done by Michael Hartrich & Paul Ross in 1973 (pg 260 new book).

"A superb pitch. Move right and climb the long, left facing flake/corner, the "7". At the top of the corner, under-cling leftward along the roof to the tree belay of Straight Up... or pull over and climb the knobby face above to easier slabs and the top".

The topo on Pg 258, and looking at it from the road, certainly supports this being a great pitch.

The problem is getting to it via the original route is 5.8X. I thrashed my way up the first pitch of Jagen Die Segen today, some of the nastiness 5.7 I have ever seen. Serious choss, I probably cleaned 50+ lbs of rock from the pitch as most holds came off in my hand with little pressure. The "birch tree" that was a landmark in the new guidebook was hanging on by a thread and I cut that loose. You can sling some new birches growing out of that crack, and get a .75 a couple feet to the right for an anchor... but it is a serious mank fest getting there.

I plan to go back and investigate the 2nd pitch of Giucco Piano, as that might be reasonable, and hunt George down to pick his brain a bit... but thought someone might have some solid beta to reach that "7" without climbing choss.

Side note, the first half of P1 of Jagen Die Seben is quite good and you can bail out left to a new bolted anchor above JB's new 5.11ish thing.... a worthwhile short 5.7 IMO...

 4 
 on: Today at 03:33:46 PM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by M_Sprague
Looks like there are some big boulders on the north side of the pond according to Bing's birdseye view I am definitely going to check it out when in the area  .

 5 
 on: Today at 03:19:35 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by Echo
Quite a few people show'd up at Humphrey's today... that was me dropping choss off of Jagen Die Seben, starting a new thread as I have some questions...

 6 
 on: Today at 02:23:39 PM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by joev9
Just posted this video up on neb.com:  http://www.newenglandbouldering.com/news/2014/9/17/deathly-hallows-fa-video

Was wondering is there much bouldering at this spot?  Nothing on mountain project and Googling around didn't reveal much either....

 7 
 on: Today at 02:06:25 PM 
Started by eyebolter - Last post by eyebolter
Last time I was at Farley, it seemed to me that there was potential for new problems right along the trail (like to the left and up from where the parking lot trail meets the bouldering trail) or maybe problems that had been climbed have regrown their lichen???  Maybe it's just my Lincoln woods mentality that every piece of rock should have a problem....

Stevie J and I put up "Larger than Life" this spring, right where you are talking about.  We moved a bunch of loose rock out of the cave and paved the hiking trail there with slabs.  Sit down start, climbs the overhanging arete and highball face above the trail.  If you want to TR, there is a hidden two wave bolt anchor you can reach via the ramp to the left.   Best V5 at Farley in my humble opinion.  It did take two days of cleaning and rock moving but pretty mint now.  We also did a V4 sitdown just left, OK but not classic.


Some stuff was done years ago up and left.  However, those boulders stay pretty wet and vegetated.

 8 
 on: Today at 12:56:56 PM 
Started by JoeC - Last post by tks
hi, you around this saturday?  looking to get up to cathedral or whitehorse.

Tom

 9 
 on: Today at 09:35:52 AM 
Started by eyebolter - Last post by joev9
Last time I was at Farley, it seemed to me that there was potential for new problems right along the trail (like to the left and up from where the parking lot trail meets the bouldering trail) or maybe problems that had been climbed have regrown their lichen???  Maybe it's just my Lincoln woods mentality that every piece of rock should have a problem....

 10 
 on: Today at 06:29:42 AM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by Admin Al
Well it's certainly getting colder.  :P  We had a light frost in the Valley a few nights ago, a tint of snow on the Rockpile, and now a hard freeze predicted fir Friday morning!  Winter feels like it's going to be here soon this year...

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