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As you get older, warming up properly becomes more important and resting between workout/climbing days become mandatory.  I have been able to arrest the deterioration of my fingers by almost not crimping anymore (can't avoid it sometimes when placing/clipping the draws).   My elbows flair up occasionally when I overdo the overhanging stuff.  I think this is the same for most.  IMO - overdoing the dyno thing will eventually wreck your shoulders.  I have been lucky with my lower joints, probably more to do genetics than doing anything right. 
Staying active (take up a second sport!) and maintaining a healthy lifestyle also help.  Make sure to drink plenty of water (more than coffee/tea, soda, and alcohol combined).
And as John alluded to, constantly strive to improve your technique.

Charles was " fully equipped"

BITD Charles Cole, founder of 5.10 was trying the second ascent of Space, then the hardest El Cap nail up,, solo... i was there, this happened.
He reachedto clip the anchors on an "A5" pitch and missed-- he ripped the ptich ! everything , about 135"  TIMES TWO.. all air so he lived THEN all the gear came sliding down the rope and knocked him out-- I am not shitting you

Wake up, solo, 40' from the wall, bleeding and you gotta jug back up  Two days to down aid/escape

He should have been wearing a rastahat. I always put on my thick wool hat if I am doing something sketchy.

Quote from: kenreville on May 23, 2013, 09:59:34 PM

Quote from: sneoh on May 22, 2013, 11:42:23 AM

Mark, 230 feet is about 50 feet short of the 'height' of the Brooklyn Bridge. 
So I did some Googling and came up with this paper - http://people.math.gatech.edu/~weiss/pub/v2II.pdf
One of its conclusion is "Consider a 54-kilogram person who jumped feet first off the Brooklyn Bridge into the water, a fall of 84.4 m (280 feet).  The jumper would hit the water moving about 28 m/s .... ".   about 63 mph which is about one half of the terminal velocity of a human.  So I way underestimated how far one has to fall to reach terminal velocity.  I looked that up too and it seems like a 600 foot free fall will result in the human body reaching 90% terminal velocity.  Grim.

Falling onto a stretched out gym rope while setting routes suck in general; 30~50 feet of rope out, self belaying with a Gri-Gri.  Much more jarring than a good catch from a belayer using a dynamic rope.

It's kinematics. Fundamental equation is: Velocity final (squared) = Velocity initial (squared) + 2 (acceleration)(distance). In this tragedy, his initial velocity was 0. Acceleration due to gravity is either 32ft/secsec or 9.8m/secsec- take your pick. If he fell 230 ft, he was therefore going, about 86ft/sec or 58.6 mph.

Overly simplistic although typical Physics 101 answer.  Ignores (air) resistence which is related to surface area and weight.  At 230 feet this will be a significant factor - remember the feather, the cannonball and the vaccum.  Thus the whole concept of TERMINAL velocity.  Which varies with elevation (atmospheric density).

Sorry Eric, but you'd be wrong. First off, air resistance has NOTHING to do with weight. Surface area does have some effect, but is negligible. Take two dissimilar shaped objects of different weight, drop them off a bridge, they'll hit the ground at the same time. I have know idea what the mean by the feather etc. You are correct that terminal velocity varies greatly with atmospheric pressure (hence density). The difference between the atmospheric pressure in Yosemite Valley and sea level would effect the kinematic equation very little. Jump out of a plane in the earth's upper reaches of the atmosphere, and you've got a point. 

Matt, check your messages.

slacker- a pretty good history of shitty white vans around NC.. welcome !

Thanks all.   The weather looks like it is going to be great next week. Just be on the look out for the creepy white van parked illegally around town.

PS:  Mopowers your driveway is next on the list of summer camping options.

Matt

BITD Charles Cole, founder of 5.10 was trying the second ascent of Space, then the hardest El Cap nail up,, solo... i was there, this happened.
He reachedto clip the anchors on an "A5" pitch and missed-- he ripped the ptich ! everything , about 135"  TIMES TWO.. all air so he lived THEN all the gear came sliding down the rope and knocked him out-- I am not shitting you

Wake up, solo, 40' from the wall, bleeding and you gotta jug back up  Two days to down aid/escape

I wasn't bivvied, i was waiting for you