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This highlights how critical it is for the leader to put the belayer in a safe spot. That involves reading the ice and knowing which way it will fall. You need to asses the ice fall every single time you lead something and make certain your belayer is in as safe a spot as possible. The stomped out platform that the last party used may be in a crappy spot. Use your own judgement not just the lemming approach.  In those rare situations where a safe spot is not available climb like a kitty and don't drop anything lest you injure your belayer or get yanked off the climb.
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any way to know were we can't go that weekend... :P
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Last post by Admin Al on Yesterday at 09:23:45 PM »
Hey Sam...

Glad to hear you're going to be OK and that it wasn't an actual fall. I hope your knee gets better soon. I will PM you Bobby's info.

Cheers
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Who was guiding willeys slide today
« Last post by iclimb on Yesterday at 09:09:08 PM »
 ;D

Hahahaha
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Who was guiding willeys slide today
« Last post by JBro on Yesterday at 08:58:18 PM »
We had a guide rudely cut us off once, but on the rap we managed to drop our rope on his head to even the score. 

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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Who was guiding willeys slide today
« Last post by iclimb on Yesterday at 08:38:54 PM »
Tradman you are right to a point. I just dont see the point of what he did or why he brought them there for such a short jaunt. I dont see what they learned from that. They did zero climbing. Just walked up through the woods and then tied in, walked on slopes above people actually climbing while kicking everything down on us. There are many other steep snow slopes through the woods or otherwise, and there were many other options on the slide itself to avoid what happened.

It honestly seemed like the guy just didnt care. And judging by a conversation I could hear him having with his clients as I brought up my second, he had a pretty cocky attitude. He said something along the lines about how easily he could control risk in the mountains.

I remember rolling my eyes and ignoring them at that point, at least until everything else happened.
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Who was guiding willeys slide today
« Last post by iclimb on Yesterday at 08:30:57 PM »
Thanks for mentioning it to them. I was about 5 minutes behind the 2 clients on the hike out to the car, but the guide  (shocker) left his clients behind to hike down on their own and took off before I got to the parking lot from what I could tell. I didn't say anything to the clients because none of it was their fault or their problem, and they were in their car pulling out as I was stepping down the last snowbank to the parking pullout.
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Who was guiding willeys slide today
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on Yesterday at 08:04:53 PM »
 if you rope up and pitch it out  on something as low angle as Willies you stand a good chance of getting passed and crap will fall on you...   not right or wrong but just the way it is.....
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Who was guiding willeys slide today
« Last post by krankonthis on Yesterday at 07:35:05 PM »
I was off to your left and saw the snowman going down the hill.  I mentioned it to the party that caused it and they had no idea they sent the snowman down. 
You where right behind them on the descent, you didn't see them in the parking lot to express your displeasure? Or just decided to use the podium of hate to rain judgment?
Sam
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Goofers Accident on Tuesday or Wednesday?
« Last post by Samuel.Taggart on Yesterday at 06:38:14 PM »
Well,  here is a brief summary:

I was belaying at the bottom of Goofers.  The leader was near the top.  I was belaying off a nice, wide, packed platform at the base of the route.  A few small chunks came down but I was easily able to dodge them because I wasn't anchored.  As he got to the top a huge watermelon sized chunk came down.  At the last second it took a bounce directly at me.  I jumped out of the way, but I put my foot into one of the holes from people postholing.  Of course I lost my balance and fell down the hill wrenching my knee because my lower leg was stuck in the whole.  I managed to get my leg out while still holding onto the brake stand, but then started sliding down the hill (it was pretty packed and icy).  I let out a bunch of slack, hoping I wouldn't pull the leader off and that I would stop before I hit a tree or something.  At somepoint I couldn't let anymore slack out.  The brake strand got tangled in something, probably me.  I came hard onto the rope and shock loaded the leader.  Luckily he was at a good stance and I didn't pull him off.  A friend was up top taking pictures so he ran over and put in a screw and clipped him to it, while I righted myself.  I could put weight on my knee, but it kept wanting to buckle inward.  I decided I was just going to wait there for them rather than try to move somewhere and injure it more.  They had no idea what happened.  Instead of rapping down the route and potentially knocking more ice on me, they decided to rap off to the side.  That's how the ice screws got left.  The nomic fell out of a pack somewhere while they were lowering me down the hillside.

I went to the ER and the doctor said I just sprained my knee.  He gave me a brace and I'm getting around ok.

So that is the story.

If you give me Bobbys contact info, I would at least like to thank him.
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