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 1 
 on: Yesterday at 10:04:56 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
so, we probably all agree on the fact that there is area for top roping and area for leading. I saw some very good climber doing laps on top rope. I think that I heard that Ed Webster do some solo laps on Barber wall and train for placing pro in awkward placement.

In that way, I think that we can agree on some ethic that can be the same for trad and sport, like to give priority to party who lead pitches to the top, not rapping in the route, but to use rapping ring outside where there is no climber under them.
Though not universal everywhere, it is commonly accepted that lead takes precedence over endless TR runs/laps.  As JohnS had mentioned several times, one can learn some good stuff when working a route just a little bit over one's ability to lead on TR.  And, as my friend Whitey often does, I like climb to failure on a TR to end a good day.  Of course, I would yield to anyone who wishes to lead through on the same route. 

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 09:34:04 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
It is true that you see it more these days.

so, we probably all agree on the fact that there is area for top roping and area for leading. I saw some very good climber doing laps on top rope. I think that I heard that Ed Webster do some solo laps on Barber wall and train for placing pro in hackward placement. One of your great climber , and probably SA too, did laps on the prow with a top rope from the top.

In that way, I think that we can agree on some ethic that can be the same for trad and sport, like to give priority to party who lead pitches to the top, not rapping in the route, but to use rapping ring outside where there is no climber under them.

Not working a route and bottom up most be keep to describe sport as much as working a route is more in the sport ethic.

The idea is not to restricted the usage of the cliff to a small number of climber, but to diversify our possibility of style and climbing. A distinction never make barrier, but a mutual respect of the other.... Even if i don't know which kind of respect I had against the guy who top rope the route that I want to lead.

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 08:38:49 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by pappy
Maybe it is sport climbers...back around the turn of the century my buddy Sporty was deployed to Europe (pre 9/11) and on an off weekend went to Boux (?) Said there were unattended TRs set up all over the place, so he pulled one aside on a route he wanted to lead, led it, and rapped off. A local then ran up and started ranting in his face in the French, which Sporty don't speak (then), but worse, starts poking him in the chest. As Sporty is in fact a SEAL who made chief faster than anyone in the teams, this is probably a poor life decision. Pokes once and Sporty says, 'Don't do that.' Pokes twice, and Sporty says, somewhat more forcefully, 'don't do that.' Pokes again and Sporty clocks him and tells me, ' I think he rolled a 100' down the talus.' Immediately another local, who speaks English, runs up and says, 'What did you do that for? He didn't want to fight, he just wanted to argue!' So French. So sport climber.

 4 
 on: Yesterday at 07:11:18 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by Echo
...
Be there or be a quadrilateral where the diagonals are equal and are the perpendicular bisectors of each other, i.e. a rhombus with equal diagonals.

You know ... square.

Dale

Sounds like a Big Bang Theory quote...

Iíll definitely be there, havenít missed one yet.

 5 
 on: Yesterday at 06:09:15 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by perswig
Bumping this - it's coming right up.  Lineup looks cool.
Be there or be a quadrilateral where the diagonals are equal and are the perpendicular bisectors of each other, i.e. a rhombus with equal diagonals.

 

You know ... square.

Dale


 6 
 on: Yesterday at 12:53:51 PM 
Started by mendonza - Last post by mendonza
As i continue my exploration of the cathedral esoterica i found another line that i can't identify.

From the belay on right side of diagonal before the dike there are 2 ANCIENT 1/4 inch bolts that go over some slick looking black rock and into a feature through the overlap maybe 50 feet left of the mordor roof. I assume it is an old aid line, but neither the Webster or Handren guides describe any routes going up that way.

Any ideas on what that could be?

Matt

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 05:45:38 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by The other tomcat
I started climbing in the Gunks in 1978. Back then you rarely saw anyone toprope anything to the right of the Uberfall, and if you did it was usually Kama Sutra or On Any Monday type stuff. The addition of the bolted rappel anchors made the TR problem worse, as have large guided groups, or posses of noobs. Sadly, the problems there compound themselves, as people camp on routes as described here, they are unwilling to move elsewhere because when they get there, some other party will be camped on the route they wanted.

It used to be, and worked well, that people just led stuff and moved on. That way if you walked up with your partner and the leader was moving along at a reasonable pace, you could predict what would happen and the timeframe. A few years back we wanted on Never Never Land, but a party of three was doing it. When we came back 2.5 hrs. later, they were still lapping it and J-Accuse.

I had less than one year of climbing under my belt first trip there, and my buddy John and I walked down and swung leads up Red Pillar. It's actually kind of sad to see so much TR'ing because there is no place safer or easier to learn to lead than the Gunks. You can't actually plan a weekend day of routes now, because you have no idea if you can get on stuff.

 8 
 on: October 18, 2014, 09:51:16 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Jeff
Over the past 5-10 years I've seen this more and more at the Gunks as groups come ( 2-6 people) with one person ( or 2 at most) willing or able to lead trad-- they lead, set up a TR and everyone climbs the route (first pitch), sometimes even doing it twice before they move on to something else-- I'm retired and avoid the problem by mostly going to the Gunks during the week-- weekends are ridiculous, especially 3 day weekends, and the worst is Columbus Day paired with Canadian Thanksgiving-- the numbers are just too great!!

 9 
 on: October 18, 2014, 08:07:44 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
The practice of leading a pitch and doing a top rope when there is two or three party who want to do the route is not some thing that I saw often in the pass.
It is true that you see it more these days.  I remember the first time I encountered this was at The Gunks back in the 90's.  I was speechless, but just moved on to the next climb in my range.  Seriously though, LL, at most sport areas, I hardly see this happening.  Wait in lead to LEAD a route, yes, but some a-hole dominating a climb with a TR, very infrequent. 

 10 
 on: October 18, 2014, 07:58:33 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Yep.  No different than the azz-hat that insisted on setting up a TR on Whitehorse on the pine tree at the far end of the slabs a couple of weeks ago despite the fact that we had told him we were rapping off and to give us a few minutes and it would be all his.  Never crossed my mind that he might have been a sport climber as he was walking all over my rope tarp, but 'inconsiderate a-hole' certainly did run through my mind more than once- among other things.

I most agree a-hole is a better description. I was close to ants line, last year and there was ten tope roping a-hole waiting to climb. It happen also in the first pitch of intimidation.

The practice of leading a pitch and doing a top rope when there is two or three party who want to do the route uis not some thing that I saw often in the pass.
 

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