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General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by SidleK on Today at 08:02:32 PM »
8 pages now?? I'm with Nemisis...Dudes give it a rest and get out and go climb something

Did you hike out to the top and walk down the trail or did you rap? Ice was nice and plastic today (played on LHMW and off to the right).

General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by Nemesis on Today at 07:32:21 PM »
This thread is like breakfast with a one-night stand.  I'm just thinking "F--k! When is this gonna end?" , but I can't just leave for some weird reason.
I did Upper Hitchcock today and was surprised how big it was.
I did see someone standing at the base of Dracula. That seemed pretty hardcore.
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by sneoh on Today at 06:53:05 PM »
I was the second or third party to climb a route, when it was not a free ascent, and loose block, crack fill with dirt, unsafe pillar are daily climbing for me.
Sure, if you have the 2nd or 3rd ascent at a "backcountry" crag, I an see breaking hand holds and have to contend with dirt filled cracks.  What I was referring to is North Conway and its neighborhood you frequent.  You do know there are climbers around who take the time and trouble to clean overgrown older routes so they and us can climb them again, right? 
Here's one for you, one of the safety related things one learn to do on a route (suspected to have loose blocks and weak holds) is to test the hold before fully weighing it.  A lot of routes on Canon qualify.  And if the hold feels weak or loose, find a way around it, or use it very gently.  Dropping broken rock onto or near the belayer sounds to me like one of the most unsafe things to do, dear grand maestro of safety.  Even the beginners plying the carriage road down at The Gunks know this tidbit!!

P.S.  Like John, I have had only 1 or 2 hand holds break on me ever, and not because I have not had my share of choss.  And the broken part was small, like an arrowhead.  I have broken footholds too, on a wide variety of routes, all small flaky or pebble stuff.  But I once bagged a 2-pound chunk of loose rock directly above one of the belay anchors on The Standard Route at WH.  Luckily, I had a day pack with me so we took it to take top before disposing of it. 
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Prozac
« Last post by markvnh on Today at 06:47:57 PM »
Good thing it got done yesterday as it looked gone at 2:00 today. 50 degrees in the cannon lot. No cars, no one on dike looking with binoculars. Dike looks like it took a hit too (have been by both days this weekend so can compare).
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Broken stinger crampon
« Last post by markvnh on Today at 06:45:06 PM »
Ironic. While not breaking a point after climbing yesterday I noticed both my front points were very loose. It took a few really good turns to tighten. No problems today.

I guess we are gonna have to check them more often.

On a side note - climbed on M10's for years and never remember front points loosening.
Climbed LHMW yesterday in nice early season conditions. Crux was coming up lower Hitchcock and being the first to cross the boulder field getting over to LHMW. Made a beeline right done to tracks on way out.

Went back today and things really took a hit. LHMW and upper tier stuff was climbed. Hitchcock, Cleft, east face right.

Ran into a guy who's buddies did lower Hitchcock and upper yesterday. And Snot Rocket which when I walked buy yesterday looked liked it had been climbed.
Conditions / Re: Reset Button
« Last post by markvnh on Today at 06:35:03 PM »
I was in Crawford Notch again today and wish I'd brought my skis. The runs were probably pretty sweet on the soft snow. Hope you enjoyed.

Hoping later turkey weekend things come back "low" in the notches.
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by strandman on Today at 06:32:36 PM »
Dude you should climb on better rock..I bet I have had, maybe 4-5 holds break  on me ever. I sure have climbed in a variety of areas
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