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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by steve weitzler on September 23, 2016, 04:23:30 PM »
The hell with chopping bolts. I am going to go up there and chop some trees. After all winter is coming and I need some fire wood. When I am done chopping the trees I think I will will lower them off the bolts that the MRS placed. :P :P
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by DaveR on September 22, 2016, 08:21:08 PM »
For some reason all those bolded capital letters makes me want to go chopping. Good thing I'm lazy.

Sorry, some people just want to chop whenever they find a bolt.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by JBro on September 22, 2016, 07:48:33 PM »
For some reason all those bolded capital letters makes me want to go chopping. Good thing I'm lazy.
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Gear Exchange / Re: FS: Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 tent, sleeping bags
« Last post by nuts on September 22, 2016, 04:36:07 PM »
bump
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by JoeC on September 21, 2016, 09:30:36 PM »
They are either n0t that obvious, or im blind.  We looked for them today and didnt see them.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by DaveR on September 21, 2016, 03:58:44 PM »
Just got off the phone with Brad White.

THOSE BOLTS ARE THERE FOR RESCUE PURPOSES AND SHOULD BE LEFT ALONE. THEY WILL NOT BE REMOVED. THE MRS HAS ANCHORS FOR RESCUE PURPOSES ALL OVER THE PLACE that I did not know about. Most are very well hidden. Please leave anchors you might find in some weird places alone.

A partner and I found one a couple of years ago and we wondered what it was until 5 minutes ago when I talked to Brad. We stumbled upon 2 big ring bolts with a permanent stainless cable set up to haul a truck! MRS put it there.

Thanks
Dave R
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by DaveR on September 21, 2016, 02:18:52 PM »
There's a road, railway, restaurant and gift shop, weather station, TV antennas and who knows what else on the mountain and we're worried about LNT with two rescue bolts in Huntington Ravine? Leave them be as who knows when they might be needed again!


A+++
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by markvnh on September 21, 2016, 02:17:16 PM »
There's a road, railway, restaurant and gift shop, weather station, TV antennas and who knows what else on the mountain and we're worried about LNT with two rescue bolts in Huntington Ravine? Leave them be as who knows when they might be needed again!
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General Climbing / Re: Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by DaveR on September 21, 2016, 01:29:43 PM »
It sounds like the holes were not cleaned properly. For people inexperienced with bolting, it is important with all bolts, but especially with glue-ins to clean the holes very well so the glue can seep into the pores of the rock. I use both a blow bulb and tube brush alternating  several times at least until nothing comes out. When shooting the glue in one needs to start with the tip of the nozzle all the way in the back and slowly draw it out as you pump so as not to leave air pockets. Experience will tell you how much to put in to not waste too much, but over fill rather than under. It should squeeze out as you twist the bolt in. You then neaten it up with your finger, making sure there are no air pockets or gaps at the surface level for water to collect in. With a new nozzle you also want to prepump some glue through into a rag or something to make sure the glue is mixing properly before shooting it into the hole. Those galvanized bolts should be countersunk a little. The Wave and Bolt Products ones are not countersunk (maybe just a tiny bit for aesthetics, but that makes it harder to cut them off and core drill if they get damaged and have to be replaced) The Wave and Bolt Products glue-ins are designed to have a little spring action against the sides of the hole to keep them from sliding out of overhangs while the glue is drying so they need to be tapped in with a hammer during the last part of the insertion. Ideally the hammer should be SS also or a wood, rubber or plastic mallet to not introduce carbon into the surface of the bolt (according to the manufacturer) The Wave bolt manufacturers actually have a handy SS tool that fits over the bolt for this purpose which also helps maintain the shape of the bolt eye as it is hammered in.

Left a message for DQ Mark. I need to get a bunch more bolts for a couple of projects but if he does not get right back to me maybe I can snag 6 from you and replace them later.

Please listen to what Mark is saying. You have a huge responsibility when you put in bolts for public use to make sure they are done the right way! People just assume they are good! When I pointed out to the group that their anchors were wiggling in the holes they were clueless. With a good bit drilling a 1/2 hole in granite just takes a couple of minutes. It takes WAY LONGER to clean the hole properly. Also the proper mixing of the epoxy is just as critical.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by CD on September 21, 2016, 01:25:12 PM »
I am usually not too concerned with LNT when trying to save someones life ::)

Obviously. Nor I, but it's always good to go back and pick up after ourselves. I'm done now, for real. Enjoy the last full day of summer all!
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