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Trip Reports / Re: Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle in 2.5 hours car to car
« Last post by Bill on Today at 10:00:16 AM »
... , found the Green Wall, woohoo ! ...

Is this the spot somewhat near the top where you go up a 20 foot lichen-covered face with two cracks to a ledge, move right, reach down to a rail feature, swing down and hand traverse right 20 feet with tremendous exposure (you are looking between your legs directly down into the Pinnacle Gully)?

Did this my first time up the NEOTP but have only found it once in my subsequent 3 times up it.
General Climbing / Re: Your Biggest Whipper
« Last post by ralbert20 on Today at 09:59:09 AM »
2 approximately 30 footers. One at the Gunks - was trying to lead Mother's Day party, but was apparently on Interstice. I must have spent nearly an hour going up and down trying to find pro before deciding to try to exit right. I got to some huge slopey jugs and just could not hold on anymore.

I fell below my belayer, but she kept me off the ground. A nut held, and did not weld. I climbed back up to it, rapped off and called it a day.

The second one was in El Potrero. We had been climbing all day, and I had not fallen off of anything yet, so I decided to just keep climbing until I did. I got pretty high up on some 11a, went to clip the bolt, took out a bunch of slack, then fell off.

Again, fell below my belayer ;) Again, she kept me off the ground.

All the people at the mota wall said - "No one ever falls here! That was cool!"

Trip Reports / Re: Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle in 2.5 hours car to car
« Last post by strandman on Today at 09:35:54 AM »
The Auto Road is the way to go if you wanna fail on Roof of the World..the scramble of shame back to the car. Sounds like Mechanics' had some rockfall, so rapping isn't so good anymore ?
General Climbing / Re: Your Biggest Whipper
« Last post by strandman on Today at 09:12:05 AM »
Best Elvis leg move on the cliff.

ken- the Arete is just SO good,,does it get done anymore ?  A real full value pitch
August is Pinnacle month! Did it with my friend Juliet some years back. She had heard from two parties that planned to use the Auto Road approach the day we wanted to do it, so I called to see what time it opened, and we back planned from there.

Left Pinkham at 6 I think, beat the other parties to the base by minutes, did the route, found the Green Wall, woohoo ! Hiked across and down. Probably the only day I ever spent on Washington without ever putting on or taking off a layer, did the whole thing in baggies and a wicking tee.
What is this the post your links section?? Put the report here if you want us to read it.

The main reason is so I don't have to resize photos to fit this website. I don't have any software to do that, and without re-sizing them they look huge on NEClimbs:

While I don't make any money off the blog I do from time to time get some free gear to demo/test. Having some traffic click through to read a trip report helps with that.

That being said I'm happy to copy the text over if clicking the link is a hassle:

I guess I’ll keep with the moderate speed climbing theme and share some beta on today’s 2.5 hour car to car ascent of this classic alpine rock climb. We’ll get the big disclaimers out of the way first;

1) This route is committing! From Mountain Project’s description: “The Pinnacle is above treeline on one of America’s deadliest peaks. The weather is unpredictable and often comes in from the west (over the Mt. Washington summit, thus invisible). Snow occurs in every month of the year on Mt. Washington, and high winds, driving rain, and thunderstorms are common. Be sensible. Check the forecast, get an early start, and be prepared to bail if things go bad.”

2) We used what I call the “modern” approach… the Auto-Road. While this “approach” cuts the hiking time down to less than 20% of the “traditional” approach/descent time from Pinkham Notch it has two disadvantages. First, you can’t really retreat down should bad weather role in. As such this approach should only be used during very clear weather windows. Second, cost. $36 for a car, driver, and passenger. That works out to $18/ea. So my $.02 on using the road:

If you have never done the route from Pinkham I’d suggest doing it that way a time or two. It’s cheaper. Figure 2.5 hours for approach plus or minus 45 minutes depending on fitness, and another 2.5 hours for the descent after un-roping (if not tagging the summit). 7am is probably a good start time.

If the weather forecast is grand and you want to cut out an average of 5+ hours of hiking from your day, this method is quite sweet. Mike and I left the car at 9:40am and hiked down to the Huntington Ravine trail. From the parking lot it took us 6 minutes to reach the large cairn at the top of the ravine, where we could see one party just starting the route.

Heading down the headwall
Heading down the headwall

Scrambling down the the headwall trail to the base of the route took us another 30 minutes. It’s a definitely 4th class trail so it could take longer based on your experience with down climbing with exposure. We roped up and I started up the first couple pitches in approach shoes. After 300 feet I caught up to a party ahead of us at the base of Pitch 3 and built an anchor. When Mike arrived we chilled for a few minutes to re-rack while Dustin’s party finished the 5.8 pitch 4 variation (having combined P3 & P4). We followed suit with Mike leading behind them and stepping out left to easier ground after the crux moves.

Mike starts Pitch 3 while Dustin cleans Pitch 4 higher up...
Mike starts Pitch 3 while Dustin cleans Pitch 4 higher up…

Combining these two pitches makes sense to me, but rope drag can definitely be an issue. Consider back cleaning that piece after the “groveled on my stomach move”. You’ll know it when you do it. After it is an “ok” pin that can be backed up if you like, then un-clip that last cam and life will be easier!

I followed the 5.8 pitch, still in approach shoes, and resolved to “quick-alpine-style” right at the crux (read he pulled or stepped on the pin). I’m not ashamed ;)

One I reached the belay I took off for the upper bits. We still had two parties heading to the idyllic “Fairy Tale Traverse” ahead of us so I choose the easier 5th & 6th pitches without stopping to anchor until just below the final 30 foot technical section at the top. I belayed Mike up and then took a more solid belay for the final 5.6 corner and reached the top as the first party we saw while descending was de-gearing for a summit bid.

The first party on the route finishing the "Fairy Tale Traverse"
The first party on the route finishing the “Fairy Tale Traverse”

Mike finishes the end of the roped climbing
Mike finishes the end of the roped climbing

Dustin starts the "Fairy Tale Traverse"
Dustin starts the “Fairy Tale Traverse”

We headed up and to the car reaching at 12:10 pm, just under 2.5 hours. ViewRanger track log reported 1.49 miles round trip, about 1,200 feet elevation down then up.


I’d like to be a bit more optimized for my next attempt to get this one under 2 hours. For those who are SUPER comfy with the grade and have done it before, this is what I am planning on for next run:

Rack: .3-#2, no doubles, no nuts/tri-cams (thinking speed here). 6 alpine draws.

Rope: 9.2mm 30m rope. Simul to P3, belay 5.8 variation (my measurement is combining P3&P4 is still only 100 feet). Simul to last 5.6 crux. 30m rope will cut quite a bit of weight (and time coiling/flaking).

If the disclaimers at the beginning weren’t enough, these ideas are great for those who have scouted/climbed this route a lot. If it is your first time on it slow it down and have a great day!

While that’s it for speed climbing for a bit, heading into quite a few days of guiding camp groups, mostly from the AMC. Should be quite a nice week weather wise. Hope you all get out and get some good climbing in.

Thanks for reading! See you in the mountains!

General Climbing / Re: Your Biggest Whipper
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on Today at 05:58:14 AM »
People get hurt on that Childrens crusade fall....  that shit is scary :o
General Climbing / Re: Your Biggest Whipper
« Last post by slink on Today at 12:57:17 AM »
Took the fall from the mantle on Childrens crusade years ago that was pretty long.  ::)
Trip Reports / Re: Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle in 2.5 hours car to car
« Last post by ELM on Yesterday at 11:12:01 PM »
What is this the post your links section?? Put the report here if you want us to read it.
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