the start of the 3+ pitch
Look like ice managery with twenty below zero on the left. Not in good condition for sure, but maybe harder than it is. I climb where the pillar is, between the climber and the rock. Hard to protect when I did it, it was medusa. With a hard top and icycle under.
On the lake, I was looking for crazy diamond.i saw it one time in good shape and it was an amazing icycle.
When things go wrong on that climb, you rip all the gear: nothing hold in pressure plate over icycle. The question is do you run it out, an take the risk or place as much pro as you can....an take the risk. On the picture, we saw the climber doing a high step. all is weight is on one feet, in good ice, if the feet slip, the climber can't used his right feet because he his to hight. As the right hand is swinging, his only safety his is left tool. If the ice under his left feet broke, all is weight will be in his left arms, probably twisted. the fall will be without notice and the climber can't do any thing to protect himself.
If you look at great climber, like jeff lowe...water fall ice... you will see that he practically always do small step on this kind of ice and place two pick in before moving his feet to be in equilibrum on two or more point and be ready to jump to avoid to hit the ice in your way down. Of course, in the picture we are in a class 4 or 5. It is not an acrobatic climb like when you are doing mixt climbing.
The climber seems to say the black dike is not a 3 because I am good I can climb that. Which is, in my opinion, a bad attitude. One day, chouinard climb the north face of a route in the west. The weather was perfect and they went to the summit in a record time. at the top, he was no happy. He feel that he didn't climb the route. the next winter he went to the cliff and climb it in snow storm, the chimney was plaster with ice, he had hard happy time and was still there to write the story after.
So, we saw a comparison when things go wrong from some one with technique, Yvon Chouinard, and some one else who want that people think that he his good. When things go wrong, and I am not enjoying the fact that it can happen, I rather prefer to be a Chouinard.