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General Climbing / Re: Route name stories?
« Last post by strandman on Yesterday at 04:39:32 PM »
I agree..Some climbs that we did in the 80's/90's don't get done much now "runout'   we almost considered the "sport".

I know that some of my early trips to NC and Tuolumne established a certain style of route
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General Climbing / Re: Route name stories?
« Last post by pappy on Yesterday at 04:24:52 PM »
Yah..'cause Rotert routes ned more run outs  :o


All routes need more run outs, 'cause a bolt every 8' is really just jacking off. Arno and Doc Bayne did the second on DDDDC, confirmed the grade and said, 'yeah, it's pretty damn run out.' Since I've never really been more than just a weekend warrior wannabe--and an over the hill one now--that was one of the more satisfying moments of my 'career'. But that's such an '80s attitude.
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General Climbing / Re: Route name stories?
« Last post by strandman on Yesterday at 12:29:48 PM »
Yah..'cause Rotert routes ned more run outs  :o

What is the route at Ragged ?/ it was originally anal crack,, then animal crack ??/something like that
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General Climbing / Re: Another disaster on Everest
« Last post by Admin Al on April 25, 2015, 09:39:53 PM »
a MAJOR tragedy for all of Nepal...
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Gear Exchange / Re: Rumney Guidebook on ebay
« Last post by steve weitzler on April 25, 2015, 04:15:01 PM »
You'd look great in those Gri-Gri pants Mark. :o
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Rock Climbing: Sport / Re: OMG
« Last post by steve weitzler on April 25, 2015, 04:12:41 PM »
I don't suggest anything anymore. I just walk away. Let God sort them out!! :police: :police:
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General Climbing / Re: Route name stories?
« Last post by pappy on April 25, 2015, 10:37:26 AM »
Back to AC/DC references, Sporty and I put up a two pitch direct finish to an old Rotert route on Whitesides called New Perversions. One self drive in two pitches (at the .12 crux), with lots of lichen on .10 R+ ground above that. Casting about for the proper name for the finish of a route called New Perversions we came up with 'Dirty Dykes Done Dirt Cheap'. Still cracks me up. A few years later I glanced through Yon's guide and saw they had changed the 'y' to an 'i', so I raised hell with Yon, who swore that he liked the original, the editors at Mountaineers must have changed it, because that 'y' was just not PC.

F**k PC.
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Rock Climbing: Sport / Re: OMG
« Last post by strandman on April 24, 2015, 07:10:10 PM »
hopefully..today ,climbing near Taos NM  2 Bighorn sheep peered over the edge of the climb i was on..Holy Shit !!
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Sawtooth Range Idaho
« Last post by krankonthis on April 24, 2015, 09:44:23 AM »
Elephants Perch is the Jam Zone!  Bring a fishing pole for rest days and there's a sweet cliff jump into the lake.  Fine  Line and Myopia are good lines too.   
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