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Rock Climbing: Trad / North Bald Cap trail clearing
« Last post by rbirk on Yesterday at 10:22:16 AM »
I spent last weekend doing some major trail clearing at North Bald Cap on the trail to October Sundae. It was rather overgrown through raspberry bushes and what not in many areas. Now you can hike it in your bathing suite (if you're so inclined) :)

See below for the before and after shot on one of the sections.

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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Cannon
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on Yesterday at 06:47:50 AM »
Belay at bolt. wet mossy slab to a wet mossy corner w/ loose blocks on top then through break in huge loose blocks (pin) that have recently shifted to shelf that all the grass and dirt recently washed off of then through nice clean notch in overhang. yes we got it right. I thought P 4 was one of the better pitches ;D that sweet runout riseing traverse after the loose gully.
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General Climbing / Re: Whats with Squamish climbers
« Last post by rbirk on August 28, 2016, 11:11:56 PM »
Whats with all the Squamish climbers not wearing helmets?

Only Squimish climbers wear helmets :P
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Events & Announcements / Re: Holts ledge is closed to rock climbing
« Last post by rbirk on August 28, 2016, 11:10:10 PM »
Heads up. the town of Lyme NH has closed Holts ledge to rock climbing. Access fund and local climbers are working with the town to try and resolve this but untill that happens Holts is closed and it is important to Not violate the closure as that will not be good for the process going forward.

Did the town give a reason? Just curious.
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Accident on Saigons Cathedral Ledge 7/31/16
« Last post by lucky luke on August 28, 2016, 10:11:27 PM »
The consequences of a fall on the second pitch before the bolt are substantial. On Sunday, I took a big lead fall (25-30 ft) at the crux before the bolt and hit the slab below, breaking my foot. I protected with gear in the horizontal before the steep section, but unless I missed a gear placement, there was nothing else until the bolt above.

i did the last ascent of the climber who did tbe first ascent.

he talked about the competition between ttad and sport and saigon is clearly a sport route in a trad cliff.

i onsighted the second pitch. but it was not an rasy one. 25 feet look or an overestimation or a bad cam placement. with trad technique...it is hard to fall there. but it is akward.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Cannon
« Last post by slink on August 28, 2016, 09:40:26 PM »
Nick. I did this a few years ago and only thought the fourth pitch was bad, getting to the big ledge,5.5 loose and crap gear. Did you get sucked into the wrong corner up higher? I started up one corner  and it didn't look safe and found a better one a little farther left. Still beats standing in line for MG.
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Conditions / Tree Keys Humphreys
« Last post by JoeC on August 28, 2016, 08:16:09 PM »
Went up there today and tightened bolts ans straightened outthe hangers.  On the bolt after the loose middle section i believe i did some light chipping to get the hanger to sit flush.  Did not affect the route on any way.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Cannon
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on August 28, 2016, 05:04:30 PM »
We did Sams yesterday.  Had it to ourselfs while all the usual suspects were mobbed. It truely is a lot more serious than Moby or WG. Lots of  of really loose stuff and huge runouts. That being said the first 7 pitches are awsome and recomended to those who  need to feed the rat. Most of the really big runouts are comfortably below the grade. P7 however is at least 5.7R+  looks like several pins are missing. Were it not for the yellow micro cam it would certainly be solid 5.7 X.  Great pitch though and totally doable.  Pitch 9 flat out sucks. Wet mossy loose crap to a pile of shit loose blocks that are on the verge of going by by. That whole mess can be avoided by takeing a sharp long right at the slopeing ledge above P7 ( did it that way last fall) A great climb that highlights just what a heap Cannon is.
We road tripped for most of the summer and never encountered anything remotely as loose as cannon.... It is however a great place to train for the Tetons ,Winds etc... if  you live through the training :-\
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Gear Exchange / Re: Five Ten Camp 4 GTX Low size 8.5
« Last post by ToddSH on August 28, 2016, 04:54:24 PM »
damn, my favourite shoes. just dont need a pair.



Same here.  I have the older version and wore them to death.  I am really bummed the GTX version don't fit in the same size.
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Events & Announcements / Re: Holts ledge is closed to rock climbing
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on August 28, 2016, 04:38:14 PM »
I do not know  where they will post their signs? the rock climbing is south of the ice climbing and mostly on town property. It certainly looks from  the maps they showed us that the ice is mostly on dartmouth property.
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