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Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
 on: October 22, 2014, 07:36:42 PM 
Started by PG - Last post by pappy
Great pic! (Can I have her phone #?) Like I said, I was slithering through the slot this spring and looked up for an OMFG moment. Wish that was about 70' or so.

 on: October 22, 2014, 06:36:10 PM 
Started by PG - Last post by Echo
I like how you used a pretty girl to give the crack scale, good photography trick  ;)

 on: October 22, 2014, 05:59:59 PM 
Started by PG - Last post by strandman
NICE !  I bet that was scrubba-dubba

 on: October 22, 2014, 05:18:40 PM 
Started by PG - Last post by AWinters
Hey guys, long time reader, first time responder..

In regards to the laser-cut finger crack in the slot on the Sugarloaf Trail:  I scrubbed the crack and cleaned the top-out a couple years ago and climbed that thing 'til it hurt.  Really fun but too short!  The hand jam at the top makes for a secure top-out.  Not saying I climbed it first but the top was a mess.  Jumped across to the other boulder to get down.  First time I saw it I couldn't believe it.  Came to be referred to as the Sugar Shack Crack, v1 I suppose.. it's locker.

My friend and I also bolted a cool line at the west lookout on North Sugarloaf.  Tried to hide the rings from the general public, it's a long arm's reach from the lip (laying down), but can be set-up as a TR.  It goes at hard 5.11 with a huge dyno down low and a fun crux up high.  Two bolts and a #1 camalot for the horizontal mid-route.  We left two draws hanging from the anchors while we projed, came back and they were gone.  Had to have been a climber because they'd take a little work to get to.

I also wanted to ask if anyone knows whose old rigid-stem WC #3 I found in the fierce overhanging handcrack on the behemoth boulder deep in the woods on the way up to the Loaves...  If it's yours you know the boulder I'm referring to ;)  White tape on the sling.  Lobes are welded but you can have it back if you want!

Tons of rock out there, if you're willing to scrub!

The crack in question:

 on: October 22, 2014, 04:55:55 PM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by joev9
V10 warm up?!?!?  Looks like  a V2....

 on: October 22, 2014, 04:48:22 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
LL. why is your goal on the Nose not a "perfect" onsite ascent ?..I think that now after 2 attempts, you are working the route, like a sport climb .

Maybe not working the route, even if I did the first pitch in top rope at one hundred degree.

I fail on the nose, Mountain win. It is so beautifull that I like t go back n it and climb it clean, at least half the pitch, aid or free.

It was my biggest defeat, still painful in my trad ethic.

And as I was in over training, I didn't get all my strengh back...I am not as good trad as I was. But still like to climb with the same ethic. There always a route here and there that is a most do.   

 on: October 22, 2014, 02:08:14 PM 
Started by mendonza - Last post by JBeta
+1 for Cathedral esoterica!

 on: October 22, 2014, 09:49:58 AM 
Started by mendonza - Last post by strandman
I'll have to check...The upper part of grand Finale original ?It's pretty frightening up there

 on: October 22, 2014, 09:47:37 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
I have TR a lot and have yet to cash in  ;D  I even did this with many AMC members..I wonder what happened to all of us ?

LL. why is your goal on the Nose not a "perfect" onsite ascent ?..I think that now after 2 attempts, you are working the route, like a sport climb .

Jim Erickson.."the hardest climbs tend to be achieved by dubious means"

 on: October 21, 2014, 11:58:14 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Echo
... if some one prefer to climb sport...he will likely have to top rope...or worse, to pull the rope down and clip the rope in the sling...which take more times than if he just top rope. In trad, some area will be use for training and other places will be a goal to rich....

This part of your post confuses me. What do you mean by "clip the rope in the sling"? Isn't nylon/nylon dangerous? How can I make my goal to be rich?

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