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 21 
 on: Yesterday at 10:18:29 AM 
Started by DaveR - Last post by The other tomcat
Krakauer is a dick in my book, and it's easy to put into words for me!  In Into Thin Air he chooses to play experienced climber guy until the shit hits the fan then lays in his tent while Boukreev goes out and rescues some people, then has the gall to criticize the guys actions?

Outside magazine can go fuck themselves too.

 22 
 on: Yesterday at 10:15:07 AM 
Started by DaveR - Last post by Pete Jackson
Ever met him ??   The self effecting poor, british acent used to kill me.

I have not. Honestly, I am glad that I haven't, and I dread the day that I do, because I don't have much nice to say. I've read his Everest book, Boukreev's book, Kenneth Kamler's book, Sandy Hill Pittman's writings, and the opinion I form from those sources isn't favorable. Even Dave Roberts' (his mentor?) references to Krakauer weren't super favorable -- though by the time I read Roberts' memoir I had a negative view of Krakauer, so perhaps my reading was tainted..

It is hard to put words on what make him an asshole.

I'll try: he sounds like a self-important egotistical narcissist who gains more from putting other people down than from taking humble revelation in his own achievements. The way he took down Greg Mortenson for Three Cups of Tea, while justified, came across more as a vendetta than as the work of a truth-seeker. He is, by all accounts, a gifted climber and a gifted writer. But instead of using those gifts for good, the tone comes across as self-important to the exclusion of all others' possible merit.

But you must consider that I haven't met him, so my opinion isn't well formed and certainly could be invalid. Hearing someone who has met him say he is an ass gives me a measure of confidence in panning him. But, again: it's an outside impression.

Unfortunately these Sherpas died just trying to earn enough to feed their family's. What's so bad about that is that they were fixing ropes for a bunch of rich "trophy hunters" who as Messner put it, "many are not qualified to climb the Matterhorn on their own." IMO that is an ugly part of Himalayan climbing today.

OK, back on topic.

I think Ed V. said it best: "The Everest experience today is not the experience that I want to have." I feel terrible for the folks who died earning a living, and for their families. The mountain is angry. There are too many people on Everest, and too many people milking mother nature for cash by putting people who don't belong there in to harm's way for a buck.

Last year, the same root causes led to a brawl where two climbers were almost killed by an angry mob. This year, the mountain killed 16 people on the first day above the icefall. Correlation isn't causation: I do not suggest that the mountain retaliated for the sins of last season. That said: if you believe that Sagarmatha is a goddess, you gotta wonder WTF is wrong with how the world is treating her.

I'd like to see Everest returned into the hands of dedicated, lifetime mountaineers. This tourist stuff has to stop.
 

 23 
 on: Yesterday at 10:00:22 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by The other tomcat
To follow what Mr. Strand said, there is only one first ascent. In my opinion, the unfortunate downside of power drilling is people bolt the shit out of all kinds of stuff, and quite rapidly, I have friends who sometimes bolt 5-6 routes then do them. Power drilling means the potential for future climbers to enjoy the FA experience gets reduced way faster than before.

If you have been fortunate enough to get access to some virgin rock without hiking half a day or more, I don't think it's cool to be all smug about it, and judge others who haven't been so fortunate, nor does the fact someone hasn't done FA's mean they shouldn't have an opinion about them.

Lost in the equation today is restraint. The people who go out regularly with a drill and bolts to "create" 5.easy 60' routes with five bolts seem to miss the fact that other people saw these same lines but just didn't think the added bolts were worth having another bunch of fixed shinys. I'm absolutely certain a day will come when places like Rumney will be used against us. There is not another sport where you would be allowed to drill holes and place fixed objects on public lands anywhere.

Don't get me wrong, most of my routes are 60' routes, some are less,and I placed a few pitons when I had to, and three bolts spread over about 25 routes. Of the three routes I chose to bolt, ground up, one bolt each, one had two bolts added by "do gooders", and one had one. Another route I headpointed with none now sports five bolts, and people complain they are too sporty. I decided to leave them all because I rarely climb at that area any longer, and I could see why the headpoint wasn't going to catch on.

Hundreds of good climbers have passed through who could have created masterpieces with the number of bolts that have been slung around willy nilly at Humphrey's alone. The commonly proposed "myth" that people tied up rock as testaments to their boldness is just that, a myth. Albert Dow and Michael Hartrich didn't need any feathers in their caps when they did Wanderlust, they had plenty of cred, people just were far more circumspect about when and IF they drilled.

 24 
 on: Yesterday at 09:40:46 AM 
Started by DaveR - Last post by strandman
??? i guess Everest is a sport climb ?? I know some bolts have been  placed but... ?

 25 
 on: Yesterday at 09:37:07 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
Myself..i like to place anchors at belay ledges   :)  for 'protection, generally in cracks..it's really that simple LL..really

 26 
 on: Yesterday at 09:32:03 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by DaveR
Even If I choose not to read about a previously done route before doing it to add to the adventure I still likely know the grade and that the route will all go. That is a huge mental advantage even if I don't know the exact details of the route!!

This is the spirit of the National classification climbing system. Just enought information to make it accessible and not too much to make it a repetition of some one else climb. Hardiest move, so you can know if you can climb. Maybe the general type of move: diedral, friction, etc as some one can be a good 5.11 friction climber and a poor face climbing. And the time...as if you are too slow, you most bail.   

In that spirit, the place of the anchor is important. If some one know where is the anchor, it is less work than if there is no bolt anchor... for example.

You are so F*****G clueless! :P

 27 
 on: Yesterday at 09:31:38 AM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by strandman
i have been slacking on this thread;
Budapest..one of te best pitches on Cathedral
White..a real ass kicker,,technical and sustained. Also a really good top pitch that can be rapped into
Passing Thoughts..i haven't done the whole route, but P 4? is outstanding
Peanut gallery\
Lichen Delight/lichen it a Lot

Sleeping Beauty
Avenger

nice moderates

Stewarts,, Greenpeace  at Greens

Meat grinder
Duet Direct

cannon

Stairs...Back Sundown... bartlett Hatstack  etc

 28 
 on: Yesterday at 09:25:53 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by strandman
cool..i use a hip belay quite a bit actually....ain't gonna rip me off the ground   ;)

 29 
 on: Yesterday at 09:08:10 AM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by joev9
Awesome, thanks!

 30 
 on: Yesterday at 09:04:27 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by Pete Jackson
it is who is belaying me that matters more than the device he/she is using as long as he/she is comfortable with it. 

+1000

i'll try it again but the tube and stich worked fine

I have always been a really picky belayer..yes, pain in the ass about belays

Dude, if I ever end up on a rope with you, you can belay me with a hip belay if that's what you're comfortable with. :-)

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