Recent Posts

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21
Lost & Found / Found Headlamp Frankenstein Amphitheater 3-25-15
« Last post by wagon jon on March 26, 2015, 08:11:51 AM »
Let me know if you lost one.
Jon
22
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by ed_esmond on March 25, 2015, 09:43:13 PM »
If a route has been done a certain way for years, then it stays that way (excepting gear upgrades)

Now,,about those beers.. :-*

does your "then it stays that way…" statement apply equally to all routes??

if so, how about Maestri's "Compressor Route??"

I'm no expert, it sounds like a route that was "done a certain way for years.."

Shouldn't it then, (by your standards) "stay that way…"??

Sounds to me like a "if it's good for the goose, it's good for the gander" sort of thing.

ed e



23
Partner Exchange / Climb Saturday
« Last post by seacoastclimber on March 25, 2015, 09:34:11 PM »
Anyone want to do shoestring gully or something like that on Saturday?  I'm a relatively new leader, but I've done similar (willeys slide, etc.).  I have a rack and all the gear.

I'd climb other stuff at Frankenstein, either seconding (maybe throwing a lead in too if I feel good) or do some TR.
24
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by ed_esmond on March 25, 2015, 09:26:58 PM »
Ed you need to go fancy beer drinking with me sometime. I'll hook you up with all kinds of craft beers with no fruit, oatmeal, or espresso -- and no vanilla faaaaken beans!

JB,
That does sound like an good time.  Hopefully, we'll meet up one of these days.

You have a good sense of humor, I appreciate that…

Just today, I saw (and I'm not making this $h!t up…) "Banana Bread Beer," and "GingerBread Head" (their motto: "A Cookie in Every Bottle.") 

ed e
25
Epics and Accidents / Re: Alps Avalanche story
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on March 25, 2015, 09:08:45 PM »
...
for those who remember what his an heuristic, I think that a decision base on local opinion...and previous attempt...is not safe. This is short cut...

This comment of yours (edited for brevity and accuracy) is SPOT on though... "Familiarity" is alive & well in these type of accidents.

As far as prevention (and ignoring the broken response to the accident), ignoring the whumping and skiing so close together then over a convex roll = accident, regardless of what an avalanche bulletin might have said...
26
Epics and Accidents / Re: Alps Avalanche story
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on March 25, 2015, 08:59:06 PM »
...
I think that the wump was wind slab. As i can understand, the guy had a good "I buy a course" knowledge on what is hoare frost. Not sure that it is the reason why the wind slab collapse.

I know I will regret this tomorrow morning.

From victim:

"we were hit with a large snowstorm that dumped close to one metre of snow over a 48 hour period."

The problem here was Storm Slab (or Persistent Slab), not Wind Slab. There are zero indications in both the report and in the video that indicate this was a wind effected area. It was a steep rollover that triggered on a persistent weak layer, below tree line. Where do you come up with a wind slab guess?

Quite obvious while watching the video. In 3 feet of new STORM snow. You might also argue it was a persistent slab if it was on "hoar frost", or more accurately called Buried Surface Hoar.

LL... if you don't know the difference between Storm Slab and Wind Slab perhaps you should pony up and "buy a course". You might actually walk away with some share-able knowledge.

EDIT: And "local knowledge saying this is safer" is quite different from expert advice (avi post) listing the danger as 4/5 on the European scale...
27
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Tenaya shoes?
« Last post by Nick Grant on March 25, 2015, 08:53:39 PM »
I haven't seen them in the "normal" NE climbing shops, but I hear they're great shoes.
 
28
Conditions / Re: Franconia Notch: Canon Mountain, Lafayette Ridge, Hounds Hump, etc.
« Last post by JohnR on March 25, 2015, 08:36:44 PM »
Black Dike, Weds 3/25: Plenty of ice bottom to top.
29
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by tradchick on March 25, 2015, 06:44:02 PM »
Grammy if you're going I will definitely be there.  We should go climbing first!  :)
30
Lost & Found / Re: Lost Military Radio
« Last post by Pete Jackson on March 25, 2015, 05:54:20 PM »
You need to do this in radio talk...

Breaker breaker what's your handle son and what's your twenty?

That is CB talk! Military and licensed amateur radio protocols are much different. :D

Hope the OP found their radio!
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