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2 weeks ago my wife and I climbed there.  When I got to the tree it was apparent that it would be a serious life risk to use. I left 2 biners on the the anchor to the right to facilitate the rappel. I will place some ring anchors in line with the tree on my next trip up there.
Attached is a pic of the fallen tree.

I rapped directly to the 2-bolt anchor yesterday. I thought it was a pretty straight forward rap over the overhang and straight to the bolts. When going down, aim for the middle of the overhang and you have a nice straight line. Make sure you have knots on your rope on this one as double 60s are just about enough to get you there with just a few feet spare.
Partner Exchange / 25-Aug, afternoon?
« Last post by ralbert20 on August 22, 2016, 08:18:14 AM »
Anyone want to go out after about 12 on Thursday?

North Conway area?

I lead up to mid-10, follow around the same.
I and several friends have used this tree many times  :o
Every time I did I did not feel good about it and thus "walked" down the slab to avoid weighting it too much.
Last time I was up there(last year),I was eyeing a place for a "proper" rap anchor thinking that the tree was less than great.

That 2 bolt anchor to the right is just far enough off the rap line to make it almost impossible to get to (especially negotiating the overhang)  without some type of shenanigans (establish some type of anchor,short pitch to bolts,then rap).

Thanks for the update!
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on August 22, 2016, 06:14:52 AM »
 the way we did it I  would have had a short pitch to make an anchor there but a super long pitch to do the low traverse so i just boogied up the short corner and accross the ridge. yes I am getting a bit forgetfull......
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on August 21, 2016, 10:52:32 PM »
...I missed that thing where you downclimb  over the  edge and accross the face. When you do that do you continue straight up the corner or do you exit right through the blocky looking crap above and right of the last corner?  It's a reasonably burly hike.  When started at Pinkam and including the summit it almost felt like a teton day ;D  the summit was reminicent of jenny Lake, complete with the foreign speaking tourists...

You don't need to down climb per say to get to the Fairy Tale Traverse... basically after the 5.8 pitch just trend hard right... there is an optional pin belay where you are looking down into Pinnacle Gully but I skip that and get a gear anchor a few steps up at what I think is the real start of the exposed "traverse" pitch. Much better communication after finishing the FTT. The exposure is great and it really is only 5.5.

More pics here
On 8/19/16, when I sat down on the base of this tree, while waiting for my partner to rap over the overhang, the rap tree used for the 2nd to last rap on October Sundae's rap line (and the general rap line for a couple of climbs) uprooted  and fell over. The roots were all rotted.  [If you've used this rap "anchor" in the past year or so, consider yourself lucky to be alive!)

  Fortunately, I was not actually tied into the rap anchor, thus avoiding several hundred pounds of birch tree falling on me. The rap slings have been removed, lest someone grab them and send the tree down further.
There's a double bolt anchor about 25-30 ft to skier's/viewer's left, but you have to scramble 15-20 ft down the skier's left edge of the tree island, then scramble 15 ft up on the slab beyond to get to them.  Class 3 or so, but "X" if you slip un-roped. 
Or, I guess you could re-establish another tree anchor below the fallen birch...but I really don't know how stable it is ! 
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Last post by ed_esmond on August 21, 2016, 09:43:54 PM »
did pinnacle buttress yesterday. very cool. Forgot my harness so tied directly in to the rope, belayed with munter and climbed in approach shoes whick made the 5.8 pitch a bit stiff. great route and a decent hikeing day when you hoof it from Pinkam. did not seem as well traveled ad WG or Moby but certainly worth the hike.


Forgot your harness?  Forgot your ATC??  Forgot your climbing shoes??? And then you lost your camera????

Whoa dawg!  WTF is up wid dat?..

Is it time for an intervention by your friends and/or family???

ed "sounds like either "more or less" of whatever your doing would be a good call..." e

Ps 😉  Just in case...
New Durham Area:

Mt Molly, Perdido:

The Book:"The Chinos Guide, Climbing in The New Durham Area"

Yes, it is near Longstack Precipice.
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Hidden gems, discussion
« Last post by ralbert20 on August 21, 2016, 05:38:18 PM »
the 5.9 pitch is no joke - be very careful with rope drag though - last time I did it, I wanted to throw myself off the route!
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