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 21 
 on: October 21, 2014, 05:14:00 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Just to come back on topic, I said that climbing a route with climber with a strong ethic in trad and in sport climbing are feasible with the AMC group and it will make the distinction more clear for every one. Most route in sport (rumney, kamouraska) have just one pitch and less. It is normal that a guy climb and a second climber top rope to clean the pitch.

When you climb two pitches, you have to follow as second. But the game is to go to the summit and you are a party, climbing on anchor made with stopper and cam. It is the ethic. if some one prefer to climb sport...he will likely have to top rope...or worse, to pull the rope down and clip the rope in the sling...which take more times than if he just top rope. In trad, some area will be use for training and other places will be a goal to rich. For example, I still want t climb vmc direct, clean, and don't find a good second for it. For me, vmc direct is a goal and to climb it, I will workout in different area, with slab and other feature to climb it. I don't want to pull n gear r worse work the route just to say that I did it. I want to climb it, or fail. mountain x lucky x+1...a friendly competition against the mountain.

   

 22 
 on: October 21, 2014, 12:00:38 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Echo
...Though not universal everywhere, it is commonly accepted that lead takes precedence over endless TR runs/laps...

I've always thought this was standard but when this came up a year or two ago a lot of folks here voiced "get there earlier" type mentalities... Luckily I've never had a TR camp mind if I "played through" when I asked nicely...

 23 
 on: October 21, 2014, 10:55:22 AM 
Started by SA - Last post by Admin Al
reading this book now. all I can say is GREAT!

 24 
 on: October 20, 2014, 10:04:56 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
so, we probably all agree on the fact that there is area for top roping and area for leading. I saw some very good climber doing laps on top rope. I think that I heard that Ed Webster do some solo laps on Barber wall and train for placing pro in awkward placement.

In that way, I think that we can agree on some ethic that can be the same for trad and sport, like to give priority to party who lead pitches to the top, not rapping in the route, but to use rapping ring outside where there is no climber under them.
Though not universal everywhere, it is commonly accepted that lead takes precedence over endless TR runs/laps.  As JohnS had mentioned several times, one can learn some good stuff when working a route just a little bit over one's ability to lead on TR.  And, as my friend Whitey often does, I like climb to failure on a TR to end a good day.  Of course, I would yield to anyone who wishes to lead through on the same route. 

 25 
 on: October 20, 2014, 09:34:04 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
It is true that you see it more these days.

so, we probably all agree on the fact that there is area for top roping and area for leading. I saw some very good climber doing laps on top rope. I think that I heard that Ed Webster do some solo laps on Barber wall and train for placing pro in hackward placement. One of your great climber , and probably SA too, did laps on the prow with a top rope from the top.

In that way, I think that we can agree on some ethic that can be the same for trad and sport, like to give priority to party who lead pitches to the top, not rapping in the route, but to use rapping ring outside where there is no climber under them.

Not working a route and bottom up most be keep to describe sport as much as working a route is more in the sport ethic.

The idea is not to restricted the usage of the cliff to a small number of climber, but to diversify our possibility of style and climbing. A distinction never make barrier, but a mutual respect of the other.... Even if i don't know which kind of respect I had against the guy who top rope the route that I want to lead.

 26 
 on: October 20, 2014, 08:38:49 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by pappy
Maybe it is sport climbers...back around the turn of the century my buddy Sporty was deployed to Europe (pre 9/11) and on an off weekend went to Boux (?) Said there were unattended TRs set up all over the place, so he pulled one aside on a route he wanted to lead, led it, and rapped off. A local then ran up and started ranting in his face in the French, which Sporty don't speak (then), but worse, starts poking him in the chest. As Sporty is in fact a SEAL who made chief faster than anyone in the teams, this is probably a poor life decision. Pokes once and Sporty says, 'Don't do that.' Pokes twice, and Sporty says, somewhat more forcefully, 'don't do that.' Pokes again and Sporty clocks him and tells me, ' I think he rolled a 100' down the talus.' Immediately another local, who speaks English, runs up and says, 'What did you do that for? He didn't want to fight, he just wanted to argue!' So French. So sport climber.

 27 
 on: October 20, 2014, 07:11:18 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by Echo
...
Be there or be a quadrilateral where the diagonals are equal and are the perpendicular bisectors of each other, i.e. a rhombus with equal diagonals.

You know ... square.

Dale

Sounds like a Big Bang Theory quote...

Iíll definitely be there, havenít missed one yet.

 28 
 on: October 20, 2014, 06:09:15 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by perswig
Bumping this - it's coming right up.  Lineup looks cool.
Be there or be a quadrilateral where the diagonals are equal and are the perpendicular bisectors of each other, i.e. a rhombus with equal diagonals.

 

You know ... square.

Dale


 29 
 on: October 20, 2014, 12:53:51 PM 
Started by mendonza - Last post by mendonza
As i continue my exploration of the cathedral esoterica i found another line that i can't identify.

From the belay on right side of diagonal before the dike there are 2 ANCIENT 1/4 inch bolts that go over some slick looking black rock and into a feature through the overlap maybe 50 feet left of the mordor roof. I assume it is an old aid line, but neither the Webster or Handren guides describe any routes going up that way.

Any ideas on what that could be?

Matt

 30 
 on: October 20, 2014, 05:45:38 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by The other tomcat
I started climbing in the Gunks in 1978. Back then you rarely saw anyone toprope anything to the right of the Uberfall, and if you did it was usually Kama Sutra or On Any Monday type stuff. The addition of the bolted rappel anchors made the TR problem worse, as have large guided groups, or posses of noobs. Sadly, the problems there compound themselves, as people camp on routes as described here, they are unwilling to move elsewhere because when they get there, some other party will be camped on the route they wanted.

It used to be, and worked well, that people just led stuff and moved on. That way if you walked up with your partner and the leader was moving along at a reasonable pace, you could predict what would happen and the timeframe. A few years back we wanted on Never Never Land, but a party of three was doing it. When we came back 2.5 hrs. later, they were still lapping it and J-Accuse.

I had less than one year of climbing under my belt first trip there, and my buddy John and I walked down and swung leads up Red Pillar. It's actually kind of sad to see so much TR'ing because there is no place safer or easier to learn to lead than the Gunks. You can't actually plan a weekend day of routes now, because you have no idea if you can get on stuff.

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