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 21 
 on: October 30, 2014, 06:40:51 PM 
Started by lukeweiss - Last post by wiggins
it's tough to base your boot choice on somebody else feet, i love my old unlined trango's they climb anything and feel like a rock shoe when the going gets lean, prob give another person frost bite. on the same day my buddy regularly wears his plastic doubles while i rock a unlined modified carhart workboot fiasco (fits a crampon has a steel toe and climbs like shit). my go to boot being the batura, pretty comfy. Scarpa's old omega fits wide, is a double and heard she's super warm. hmmm this might sound dumb and i never used an artificial toe warmer but if u were really counting on them and ran out or something, u'd lose some toes right, so y not geta warmer boot?

 22 
 on: October 30, 2014, 04:12:09 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Lanky
Quote
In sport, the bolt are generally place at regular space. It is a strategy that we saw more often today. If they climb a run out, they want a bolt...and if they are some things that look like a good placement, they will used it even if it is not good. But what how can we learn to make a strategy?

You really have no idea what you're talking about, do you?

 23 
 on: October 30, 2014, 08:50:36 AM 
Started by ecobot - Last post by JBrochu
True, pinnacle might be too wet. My point is ice will be climbed in the next few days for sure by the usual early season suspects. And I just took a peak over at neice and see some ice was already climbed in tucks on 10/20.

edit: make that "took a peek"

 24 
 on: October 30, 2014, 08:48:07 AM 
Started by ecobot - Last post by perswig

Almost 100% chance that somebody will do the black dike or pinnacle in the next few days.

Esp for Pinnacle, is it possible there's been TOO much rain lately to form up do-able ice?  (I'm guessing Cannon seeps no matter what amount water available, but Pinnacle seems to gush, big-time)

Dale


edit:  I know, JBrochu, I was thinking during all our rain last week that someone would be up on Cannon before Hallow's Eve.  Crazy bastards.

 25 
 on: October 30, 2014, 08:43:06 AM 
Started by ecobot - Last post by JBrochu
ice ain't happening... however if you just want to take a nice hike, that's an entirely 'nother matter~

Almost 100% chance that somebody will do the black dike or pinnacle in the next few days.

 26 
 on: October 30, 2014, 08:18:04 AM 
Started by ecobot - Last post by perswig
I've given this some thought, and if Ecobot adds a couple Warthogs to the rack, i think you're good to go.  One of you locals should take him/her up the offer and post a trip report next week.

I'd offer to do it, but I'm having my frown lines Botox'd on Saturday and the doc stays to stay close to sea level for a few days.
Dale

 27 
 on: October 29, 2014, 10:53:02 PM 
Started by lukeweiss - Last post by lukeweiss
I might have to go for them!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kastinger-Peter-Habeler-plastic-mountaineering-boots-M-10-5-with-extra-liners-/161463780807?pt=US_Men_s_Athletic_Footwear&hash=item2597fdc5c7

 28 
 on: October 29, 2014, 10:20:54 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
As some one test his piece of protection on three or four pitches of a-1 aid climbing, a climber have a better knowledge of what is a bad stopper or cam (bouncing on a pro is not good. It hurt and the 200 pounds that you weight your stopper is to low in comparison to a fall factor greater than point five).

Knowing to place protection and knowing where to place a good protection is very different. Sit down in front of cathedral ledge, look at a bunch of trad climber like steve arsenault, jim surette, and many other and you will see that they places there pro pratically at the same place. In trad, we talk about strategy to optimize our safety limits.

In sport, the bolt are generally place at regular space. It is a strategy that we saw more often today. If they climb a run out, they want a bolt...and if they are some things that look like a good placement, they will used it even if it is not good. But what how can we learn to make a strategy?

I my opinion, one most know where they fall and if they fall on ledge or in the air. We saw some climber who place tons of pro making moves so dangerous that a four feet fall can broke a vertebrae and other who took a fifty feet fall without injury. So. knowing where you fall is for me the first criteria to amke a strategy... what are the other?

 29 
 on: October 29, 2014, 08:58:34 PM 
Started by ecobot - Last post by Admin Al
ice ain't happening... however if you just want to take a nice hike, that's an entirely 'nother matter~

 30 
 on: October 29, 2014, 08:46:25 PM 
Started by lukeweiss - Last post by pappy
I'm still rocking with my Kastinger Habelers, never have had a problem with cold feet. I've noticed the soles are starting to delaminate, so got to glue those back, that will happen after 30 years. Could be that nothing really has improved in this application in the last few decades except the colors and marketing. I will say that mixed and rock moves are challenging, kind of like doing them with cinder blocks strapped to your feet, but still killer for pure vertical ice. And it just makes your legs and concentration stronger.

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