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Conditions / Keene NH Railroad Cut
« Last post by Davewalks on February 22, 2018, 08:00:34 pm »
I was wondering if anyone has been to the Keene railroad cut in the last is in the shade and low so I am fantasizing that there might still be ice there...

Mt Washington Backcountry Ski Festival
March 10-11, 2018
Presented by The North Face | Hosted by Ragged Mountain Equipment and Synnott Mountain Guides

The second annual Mt Washington Backcountry Ski Festival is a gathering in the White Mountains of New Hampshire for backcountry skiers & riders of all abilities. While geared towards backcountry skiers and snowboarders, climbers should check out these parts of the festival:
  • vendor camp and PM social hours at Ragged Mountain Equipment each day with demos, beer provided by Moat Mountain Smoke House and Brewing Co.
  • AIARE 1 avalanche course that runs in conjunction with the festival from March 9-11
  • Apres Ski Party at the Bear Peak, Attitash base lodge on Saturday night (March 10) with full pub menu, bar, presentations, raffle & auction, and live band (Rek'lis)
  • best of all for climbers at the Apres Ski PartyÖfeatured presentation by Kit DesLauriers of The North Face Athlete Team, Kit will be speaking about climbing & skiing the Seven Summits along with ski descents in the Arctic

More info and registration at:
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by Admin Al on February 18, 2018, 08:46:39 pm »
FWIW I've been climbing leashless for close to 15 years. first with the Trango Captain Hook's then with the original Ergo's which I still have and use, as well as a pair of carbon-fibre Cobra's for a couple of years. I've never dropped a tool climbing sans-leashes. I did drop a tool once when I was climbing leashed using my Charlet Moser Pulsar's. one afternoon on Chia I was trying to get my gloved hand out of the leash to place a screw and knocked the tool. it fell all the way down to the base of the climb. I ran the screw in and hung there while my partner retrieved the tool and I lowered an end of the rope down to get it back. I've never even had a close call while leashes, even while soloing, and I've soloed a LOT over the past 15 years - easy and hard stuff. 
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by RjBlake on February 16, 2018, 04:16:30 pm »
A few folks emailed with a variety of good points, which amount to, "this is a bad idea."  Thanks for the candid feedback. It was an interesting thought experiment for me.

(In case anyone was curious, some very experienced ice climbers basically said "focus on not falling, if you have a tool placement good enough to hold a fall, why would you fall?" and pointed out that the multiplication of force on the tool plus the potential for off-axis loading of the tool during the fall made it very likely to fail, and might give one a false sense of security.

All these points are well taken. Thanks.
Lost & Found / FOUND: gloves on the road below Crawford Notch
« Last post by Admin Al on February 15, 2018, 09:41:43 pm »
identify the gloves, brand and color, and I'll try to get them back to you.
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by Admin Al on February 15, 2018, 09:36:51 pm »
I was out today and the DOT was cutting back the snowbanks. they don't want to deal with your car, in the lines or not!
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by Homeless Junkie on February 15, 2018, 05:39:07 pm »
Ohhhh... I thought you meant in town.

 Iíve heard of trouble in those spots after snow. Right after though. I think the plows want the cars outta the way. Tickets, maybe but to come back after climbing and yo carís gone? Lame..
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on February 15, 2018, 04:49:25 pm »
Interesting topic. I personally dislike tethers but I understand there use when dropping a tool could be catastrophic (soloing big routes, long run-outs at Willoughby)... The second option is where it seems you'd lose the ability to quickly regain control of a dropped tool. If it is only connect to your climbing rope, and your last screw is 30 feet down... you've lost the advantage of classic tethers?

I also feel, probably from reading a few incidents in ANAM BitD that too many new leaders would lead over their ability and clip tools as protection when pumped, often ending in an accident.
Injuries, Medical & Training / Re: Totally bummed! Advice please
« Last post by Jeremy Cote on February 15, 2018, 01:40:25 pm »
Shit really sorry to hear that man. I have managed through several severe ankles sprains and a multitude of various lower leg injuries over the course of my athletic career (broken ankle too). The best piece of advice I can give is to find a superior sports medicine doctor, even if you have to travel to do so.

In the acute phase, you just need to immobilize the foot and keep swelling down. Stick with basic RICE first aid and NSAIDs to control swelling and pain. That is your only job. Once the swelling starts to subside (3-4 days, possibly longer) one thing I have done with good success is the contrast bath. Hot water treatment, then cold, etc. etc. The theory is that this helps draw blood in, then subsequently flushes it out as capillaries expand and contract. Best also to utilize a hot tub for this and put your ankle right on the jets as this also simulates micro contractions in the muscles--or so the theory goes. I will say that the evidence for this in treatment is mixed, but that may be due to comparability issues with various studies. See this:

That said, there is a psychological benefit and I felt it helped with managing the soreness I felt.

It sounds like you have a slightly more complicated situation with what could be an avulsion fracture so I would definitely listen to your doctor. That said, there are some real shitty practitioners out there so find someone that is good and you trust. Same thing for physical therapists. Injury recovery is more a mental game than anything. The body always recovers. Read up on treatments etc., so you have a baseline of knowledge when listening to your doctor. The big issue with this type of injury is whether the treatment involves surgery or going with a brace. This is likely a decision you will have to make at some point, or one that will be made for you given the particulars of your injury. There are pros and cons to both. The conservative approach is to go for a non-invasive treatment, but every situation is different. The biggest hurdle to long term success is getting back on your ankle too soon and re-injuring it. It's a slow process, just listen to your body. You will be fine.
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by rbirk on February 15, 2018, 01:29:15 pm »
I know of IME guides getting cars towed by Barking dog and others who had towing on pullouts on Rt16 north of Jackson. Seems they are extra vicious nowadays.
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