Recent Posts

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21
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by DGoguen on August 27, 2015, 09:48:54 PM »

Wow that's a beautiful photo Dave.
Looks like a "Yes" album cover minus the  mushrooms and goblins of course.
Makes me want to hit it with white gas and a wire brush. HA
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on August 27, 2015, 08:53:18 PM »
If I see a slabb covered in thick green moss I simply don't even consider turning it into a summer rock climb.

I'm guessing here, but I bet the North End of Cathedral was once covered in thick green moss. This is from a week or two ago, just to the right of Recluse.



I'm sure think green moss would reclaim many a popular climbing area given the chance.
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Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by The other tomcat on August 27, 2015, 05:17:29 PM »
I don't hip belay enough to carry gloves for that, so I'd really use them rappelling. Gloves and an extra locker solve about any rapping dilemma. I'd probably put them on if I had any inkling I was belaying a leader that might produce big falls.
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Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by OldEric on August 27, 2015, 04:27:58 PM »
The old letting the rope slip bullshit was from Ed Leeper. he originally made hangers and hooks and pins. Ed was convinced that everything was gonna rip out so you let the rope slip some to soften the catch  Sound familiar ?

Same as larry Penberthy who started MSR safest guy in the mountains..40lbs for a day trip.

never had any issue with bare hands or hip belays, but then again, i own a stich plate.

You know  how to spot a guide  ?  He's the one with ALL the gear that the shop pro-dealed him ... ALL of it

Predating those was a book "Belaying the Leader" published in the 50's by the Sierra Club and written by Arnold Wexler (a nobel prize winner in physics) that advocated the "dynamic" belay as a way of advancing beyond "the leader must not fall" mentality.
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Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan) / Re: Blues On The Lawn - August 30th
« Last post by DGoguen on August 27, 2015, 01:41:04 PM »


us old guys still can make it happen!!!!
Just not as often Al.
And sometimes by accident!
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Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan) / Re: Blues On The Lawn - August 30th
« Last post by steve weitzler on August 27, 2015, 10:53:29 AM »
us old guys still can make it happen!!!!


Just not as often Al.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on August 27, 2015, 06:21:03 AM »
I am all about scrubbing lichen but not  peeling away copius ammounts of thick green moss. that thick green moss is there for a reason. It means its usually wet there. that thick green moss is also pretty cool looking. If I see a slabb covered in thick green moss I simply don't even consider turning it into a summer rock climb.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Last Pitch of Intimidation cleaned.
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on August 27, 2015, 06:12:04 AM »
Thanks.  8)
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by M_Sprague on August 26, 2015, 11:51:42 PM »
What about scrubbing moss & lichen to open up climbs LL? Is that ethically OK? You would be happy to know Gypsie's last pitch was recently cleaned. Looks awesome.

http://conservationmagazine.org/2008/07/rock-climbing-harms-cliff-ecosystems/

I think that the article do not consider that any animal, the human, have an impact on his ecosystem. Human need outside  activites and climbing is one of them. In some places, like rumney, it is possible to construct a micro habitat for sport climber. In some other places, leave no trace is the best. At cathedral, there was a lot of visitor coming to see the climber and to touch the rock. As they go to cathedral lot of them didn't destroy other more fragil habitat to find a point of interest. I think that cathedral is a transition places between citizen  and those who want activities in forest. For that reason, the activity most stay like what we found at pinacle ridge, but with ethic to protect the environment.

I am for the protection of the three and diversity in the cliff as it is part of the beauty of climbing...

In other way, I am for management of the land. cutting the branches of the tree in a way that people can see the cliff and the climber could be a very good idea to protect the environment   

+1
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Partner Exchange / Thurs 27th partner
« Last post by c-dub on August 26, 2015, 10:31:53 PM »
Anyone free for anywhere in the Whites?  My partner had to bail at the last minute so here I am pleading for last minute partner.  I'm in Conway. Best way to reach me is phone/text 423-505-5754.
Thanks,
Chuck 
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