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Conditions / Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Last post by mopowers on August 03, 2017, 09:39:29 AM »
My guess for an age of the pin would be 1940's. I found a couple pins of similar styling on a Mt. Pisgah route documented in Appalachia from 1947. If I remember correctly the pins on Stewart's crack were much more modern Chouinard pins. I just did the route last week but didn't take notice this time.

Seems to me that the second pitch cracks to these routes would be more steep and wide than what they were climbing in the 20's, even on aid. I would also think that they could read the rock well enough to know that Quick Exit would be a dead end. I am far from a climbing historian so its all just random guesses. All really interesting though.

The pins in Fireside crack are very intriguing. Did Priesendorfer and crew leave them in place? I might have to check that route out next time I am out there. I tried pulling the opening roof one morning while camping but lost interest quickly.

The Appalachia archives might have some Greens history. Climbs and explorations of the 30's - 50's were well documented. I once asked an intern at the AMC to comb through the Appalachia journal for info on Willougbhy Lake climbing, they sent me a gold mine of info. 
Al; i was hoping you were going to affirm that local tax money was allocated to MRS, just to see who would complain about it.

Epics and Accidents / Re: Barber wall, nutcracker; thank you to MRS and conway fd
« Last post by frik on July 31, 2017, 02:16:53 PM »
Al; i was hoping you were going to affirm that local tax money was allocated to MRS, just to see who would complain about it.
General Climbing / Re: Top rope
« Last post by frik on July 31, 2017, 02:10:01 PM »
I'd say for top-roping, the Pawtuckaways may give you the most bang for the buck. For a start, I'd check out the "lower slab", "Upper cliff" & "lakeside" areas, they are all in close proximity and should have enough stuff to keep you busy for a while. The tops of the ciffs cliffs are easily accessible and top-roping is probably the predominant activity.  There's plenty of other stuff around too. As a bonus, a lot of the climbs are decent/safe leads for when you make the transition. It's about an hour and a half from Portland ... Mountain project has a lot of info.
General Climbing / Re: Top rope
« Last post by Admin Al on July 30, 2017, 05:16:42 PM »
the Other Classroom, a.k.a. Wall Of The Hurley Morning Light, at the top of Cathedral is a nice TR area.
General Climbing / Re: Hornets nest thin air
« Last post by Admin Al on July 30, 2017, 05:12:27 PM »
Al, do our NC taxes fund them at all?

you mean local property taxes, no. as far as I know the MRS gets money primarily from individual donation.
Conditions / Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Last post by M_Sprague on July 29, 2017, 09:39:59 PM »
Bummer, I missed you Dave.  Didn't know you were coming right away. I shifted my weekend to tomorrow and Monday.

Any guesstimate on the age of the pin?

That pin you saw makes me figure somebody came up from the left and into that corner, in which case they probably would have easily  made it up to the big ledge. They could have rapped off trees to the right then.  A pin or two over in the corner of the Fireside Crack would make sense also. What I haven't been able to figure out is a third pin I found between the two, higher up the face and barely stuck in a very shallow seam. Somebody would have had to rap in to the position or run it out quite a bit and then they still would be out in the middle of nowhere with possible 11 or 12 climbing above.  Even newly placed I don't think it would be any good for anything  beyond a crappy aid piece.

If those were Lincoln O'Brien pins, They wouldn't really fit his narrative. Making it up 100 feet, he wrote “but were unable to find a route to the top of this magnificent cliff. No other route could be found; the smooth, massive slabs seemed impregnable."  If he made it to the big ledge, which otherwise fits the description (about 5.4 at most from the pin up low angled corner crack), I would think they could have aided up one of the cracks to the summit. His description seems to fit the easy corners between Stewart's Crack and the Ginsu Flake (maybe what Justin Priesendorfer calls Quick Exit 5.3. see The wall appears to blank out above

I wonder if the pins were actually from Jimmie Dunn. He used pins on the belay ledge of Stewart's Crack. It seems possible that he poked around on the right side and had some older pins.
Conditions / Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Last post by mopowers on July 29, 2017, 08:11:35 PM »
This group of routes is a great addition to the cliff. Very nice work as always. The more moderate grades and route concentration almost makes it its own crag.

You must of been shocked to uncover that old pin in the corner on the left side. I thought I read somewhere about an old AMC route on the cliff. This must be it.
Gear Exchange / Quasi-free to a good home...
« Last post by perswig on July 29, 2017, 01:26:21 PM »
Slackers Classic kit (50' green webbing line, separate hand line, ratchets, etc).  Set up exactly twice, never left up, so essentially new.
Impulse buy that is not being used here.

Donate $40 or greater to MRS and I'll ship to your CONUS addy.  Overseas shipping will require a donation to my Bahamian trust fund after negotiations with my retainers and accountants.

ETA:  I'm not here much, so mebbe email at gperswig at gmail etc etc if you're on it?
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