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 31 
 on: October 22, 2014, 04:55:55 PM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by joev9
V10 warm up?!?!?  Looks like  a V2....

http://www.newenglandbouldering.com/news/2014/10/21/mike-foley-crushes-great-barrington

 32 
 on: October 22, 2014, 04:48:22 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
LL. why is your goal on the Nose not a "perfect" onsite ascent ?..I think that now after 2 attempts, you are working the route, like a sport climb .

Maybe not working the route, even if I did the first pitch in top rope at one hundred degree.

I fail on the nose, Mountain win. It is so beautifull that I like t go back n it and climb it clean, at least half the pitch, aid or free.

It was my biggest defeat, still painful in my trad ethic.

And as I was in over training, I didn't get all my strengh back...I am not as good trad as I was. But still like to climb with the same ethic. There always a route here and there that is a most do.   

 33 
 on: October 22, 2014, 02:08:14 PM 
Started by mendonza - Last post by JBeta
+1 for Cathedral esoterica!

 34 
 on: October 22, 2014, 09:49:58 AM 
Started by mendonza - Last post by strandman
I'll have to check...The upper part of grand Finale original ?It's pretty frightening up there

 35 
 on: October 22, 2014, 09:47:37 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
I have TR a lot and have yet to cash in  ;D  I even did this with many AMC members..I wonder what happened to all of us ?

LL. why is your goal on the Nose not a "perfect" onsite ascent ?..I think that now after 2 attempts, you are working the route, like a sport climb .

Jim Erickson.."the hardest climbs tend to be achieved by dubious means"

 36 
 on: October 21, 2014, 11:58:14 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Echo
... if some one prefer to climb sport...he will likely have to top rope...or worse, to pull the rope down and clip the rope in the sling...which take more times than if he just top rope. In trad, some area will be use for training and other places will be a goal to rich....

This part of your post confuses me. What do you mean by "clip the rope in the sling"? Isn't nylon/nylon dangerous? How can I make my goal to be rich?

 37 
 on: October 21, 2014, 05:14:00 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Just to come back on topic, I said that climbing a route with climber with a strong ethic in trad and in sport climbing are feasible with the AMC group and it will make the distinction more clear for every one. Most route in sport (rumney, kamouraska) have just one pitch and less. It is normal that a guy climb and a second climber top rope to clean the pitch.

When you climb two pitches, you have to follow as second. But the game is to go to the summit and you are a party, climbing on anchor made with stopper and cam. It is the ethic. if some one prefer to climb sport...he will likely have to top rope...or worse, to pull the rope down and clip the rope in the sling...which take more times than if he just top rope. In trad, some area will be use for training and other places will be a goal to rich. For example, I still want t climb vmc direct, clean, and don't find a good second for it. For me, vmc direct is a goal and to climb it, I will workout in different area, with slab and other feature to climb it. I don't want to pull n gear r worse work the route just to say that I did it. I want to climb it, or fail. mountain x lucky x+1...a friendly competition against the mountain.

   

 38 
 on: October 21, 2014, 12:00:38 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Echo
...Though not universal everywhere, it is commonly accepted that lead takes precedence over endless TR runs/laps...

I've always thought this was standard but when this came up a year or two ago a lot of folks here voiced "get there earlier" type mentalities... Luckily I've never had a TR camp mind if I "played through" when I asked nicely...

 39 
 on: October 21, 2014, 10:55:22 AM 
Started by SA - Last post by Admin Al
reading this book now. all I can say is GREAT!

 40 
 on: October 20, 2014, 10:04:56 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
so, we probably all agree on the fact that there is area for top roping and area for leading. I saw some very good climber doing laps on top rope. I think that I heard that Ed Webster do some solo laps on Barber wall and train for placing pro in awkward placement.

In that way, I think that we can agree on some ethic that can be the same for trad and sport, like to give priority to party who lead pitches to the top, not rapping in the route, but to use rapping ring outside where there is no climber under them.
Though not universal everywhere, it is commonly accepted that lead takes precedence over endless TR runs/laps.  As JohnS had mentioned several times, one can learn some good stuff when working a route just a little bit over one's ability to lead on TR.  And, as my friend Whitey often does, I like climb to failure on a TR to end a good day.  Of course, I would yield to anyone who wishes to lead through on the same route. 

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