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31
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by sneoh on Yesterday at 09:37:49 AM »
My leg was shaking as I look down below me because my head remember how pain full my dislocation was (eight week after the accident) and the other part of my brain was saying: it is a slab, you climb on your feet...you still have the skill. But the mind is very strong and I barely made it to the bolt.

It has been a trad accident. A lot of you will understand that climbing is stronger than the pain. A lot of trad climber climb with injury.

For someone who claims to place safety above everything and claims to have good technique and know how to "fall right", you sure have a lot of climbing related injuries like dislocation and fractures.
Maybe, just maybe, the evidence suggests you are otherwise.   Think about it.
32
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by xcrag_corex on Yesterday at 09:32:56 AM »
Lucky, I'll leave you with this. The routes share the same first pitch. You voiced concern about the run out. You opted to take the sport route. I was pointing out that you didn't send it not for the fact that you didn't, but that you DID NOT lower off and try to hit it ground up again. You sir, are a fucking poser. A wannabe. A sporto hack like the rest of us.

Cordially yours,

Jeremy.
33
Epics and Accidents / Re: too many accidents
« Last post by Echo on Yesterday at 09:18:31 AM »
...
Many years before, some of you said that bolt reduce the number of accident and cathedral most be bolt for that reason.

Nope. You might be referring to the Bombardment anchor I proposed. Had nothing to do with safety.
34
Epics and Accidents / Re: too many accidents
« Last post by lucky luke on Yesterday at 08:50:23 AM »
In anam, they wrote (don't remember the year) that the bolt don't lower the number of accident...the fatality is more the case of the climber who want to show off.
[...]

I like how you must have read about a sport climber dying in ANAM and decided they were "showing off". You have a knack for this kind of rationalization[/quote]

You wrote about sport climber!!!

do you think that there is no body who want to show off in trad?

Many years before, some of you said that bolt reduce the number of accident and cathedral most be bolt for that reason.
35
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by lucky luke on Yesterday at 08:44:12 AM »
They happened to be heading over to climb Ventelator. NOT WANTING TO DO THE SLIGHTLY RUN OUT 5.6 Pitch, I encouraged him to try that new 3 bolt 9+/10a slab face that brings you to the ledge both routes start off of. Guess who didn't send clean?

You make no difference between being safe and sending a route. When I had my shoulder dislocation, I climbed 5.8 and not over for a while. If I decide not to do the slightly run out and I try a 5.9 instead...that prove that the bolt was too close together and it is a top rope. Easier than 5.6, it is a top rope and my shoulder have been safe. If I climbed ventilator...I think that i don't want to do the 5.6 because it is too easy and I try the other variation. The run out in ventilator are harder than in bombardment.

Yes I try to be safe and, as I climbed with Base, he is the leader (Base rules as he like to say). Every body who knows Base know that he is very safe and smart to protect pitches. I learned a lot with him and I am still learning far from the competition of the : "Guess who" stupidity. I climbed for fun, I climb because I am not sure to make it and I CLIMBED SAFE. I remember one they walking at the bottom of the cliff, Base told me: look that route, I won't do that because it is dangerous, see that place you have to be care full there is a pendulum....and the far next day telling me; I took a twenty fall at the same spot because my feet slip, I make the move and I place three pro before I made a mistake and felt.

After my shoulder dislocation, I climb wedge: easy 5.6 with long run out. I was at the end of the second or third pitch, a long run out going strait up to the bolt anchor. My leg was shaking as I look down below me because my head remember how pain full my dislocation was (eight week after the accident) and the other part of my brain was saying: it is a slab, you climb on your feet...you still have the skill. But the mind is very strong and I barely made it to the bolt.

It has been a trad accident. A lot of you will understand that climbing is stronger than the pain. A lot of trad climber climb with injury.

     
36
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by xcrag_corex on Yesterday at 08:01:41 AM »
The few times I have climbed with Base he has been nothing short of laid back and fun and encouraging. Hell, a couple of years back I bumped into him eating breakfast in Manchester and he shot the shit with me and answered a bunch of route questions I had. Such a wealth of knowledge!

And just to weigh in on the safety side of things...
LL, A lot of people are very aware of safety. I can't quote to anyone from freedom of the hills,but I always double check my partners, stop giving my partners crap when things get serious on the lead, hell, I took AIARE level one and WFR (not just WFA). Why? Because I like to be safe. I like my friends to be safe. When something does go wrong (because shit does happen) I want to be able to do my best to help out.

Luke, realize what this thread is about. Your conduct was shitty regarding the Gunks accident. Just apologize and move on. Admiting fault when necessary can be quite liberating. After all we are only human.
37
Epics and Accidents / Re: too many accidents
« Last post by neiceclimber on Yesterday at 07:09:22 AM »
I may be wrong, but one has to wonder if the trend of doing things faster and lighter is helping to increase these problems. Now a days it seems (at least on social media) that climbing a route is not satisfaction alone, you also have to do it in record time, basically turning climbing into a race. Look at MP it seems every other post is about trying to get lighter and how to go faster.
38
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by sneoh on Yesterday at 06:40:12 AM »
Ha, ha, ha. Good story Jeremy.

I will let Dave clarify what he meant.  I DO CARE about the life and safety of others.  Having participated in several evacs, two involving people I know or close to, I know what it is like. Please do not assume just because we are not fanatical, we do not care. 

I KNOW Base.  Tho I have not seen him in quite a few years, I doubt he has gotten as fanatical as you, LL. 
Hard finding regular partners, Champ? And needing to tackle The Nose with a pick-up fro Camp 4?  Ever wonder why that might be?
39
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by xcrag_corex on November 21, 2014, 11:32:24 PM »
So I'm gonna blow the doors off of this trad elitist right now.... Several years back I went to climb Bombardment with this older guy Al, who taught me all the basics in trad climbing. We bumped into Lucky (first and only time meeting him) and BASE (whom Al and I know, due to climbing in Manch.) lucky was reluctant to admit he was "champ" on the forum here. We proceeded over to the route. They happened to be heading over to climb Ventelator. NOT WANTING TO DO THE SLIGHTLY RUN OUT 5.6 Pitch, I encouraged him to try that new 3 bolt 9+/10a slab face that brings you to the ledge both routes start off of. Guess who didn't send clean? Guess who didn't lower down and pull rope before finishing the pitch......Sound familiar Lucky?

Might be time to take a step off your high horse.

Jeremy "I miss when Ed would put a clever line in his name" B
40
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by lucky luke on November 21, 2014, 10:50:50 PM »
As one of your friend said: he laught (sic) at the stupidity of the climber when they have an accident.
Please produce proof.  Talk is cheap.

DaveR page 2

"Sometimes I laugh at the victims of accidents because they were stupid"

and it is not a problem of language. I doubt that you care about the safety/life of other climbers. There is place for sport climber: people who didn't have time to work out safety and for trad climber: those who climb bottom up with as much knowledge of climbing than knowledge on how to protect the route to be safe, to be protect in case of a fall.
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