Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  


Reading the forum on your cell phone? There's an easier way. We've enabled a Tapatalk app that makes browsing the forum a whole lot easier. Check it out in the iPhone or Android store if you don't own it already.

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10
 on: August 25, 2014, 04:18:32 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Echo
I really like this place. Tho on the feet side it is often damp. Dunno about the college groups tho.

Are you still talking about Echo, or Profile? "Feet side"? What don't you know about the college groups? Your post confuses me...

 on: August 25, 2014, 03:22:52 PM 
Started by v10mike - Last post by Admin Al

Great TR man. Very well written. What an adventure. That's really uncharted territory up there - true hinterlands. Gives new meaning to the word "committed". ;-) I've driven around up there BITD and it's crazy all the big logging roads up there.

Kudos to all of you.

 on: August 25, 2014, 03:13:36 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Admin Al
I really like this place. Tho on the feet side it is often damp. Dunno about the college groups tho.

 on: August 25, 2014, 09:22:52 AM 
Started by v10mike - Last post by strandman
Is this the infamous "Diamond"  from Alain Comeau ?  years ago ???

 on: August 25, 2014, 08:22:27 AM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Echo
It's a steep start to a big reach with a jug... it's not as bad as it looks, and eases up quickly... the 2nd pitch climbs up a bit of a steep face to the left of the belay on surprisingly good holds with little gear... only about 5.7ish... I need to get back up there, it's been quite a few years.

 on: August 25, 2014, 06:09:13 AM 
Started by perswig - Last post by markvnh
Thanks Echo. I can pretty much see in my mind where you're talking. There were a few routes un identifiable based on only having MP on my phone that day. And yeah if it's the one then it's a pretty heady start.

Thanks again for the info!

 on: August 24, 2014, 09:40:44 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by markvnh
White Birch Brewing Double IPA. Very good double hop bomb with no taste of alcohol. Very drinkable. Great after today's MTB ride.

Beginning to think White Birch is one of the better breweries in NH with all that they've brewed that I like.

 on: August 24, 2014, 09:31:02 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Echo
Mark, it's just to the right of "birthday bolts", around a bulge to the right... some steep moves lead up to easier climbing and a gear anchor, some pins there I think... then a step down and to the left lead to fun steep 5.7ish climbing for P2... a bit heady off the belay if I remember correctly. It is in Secrets of the Notch but looking at it tonight it isn't that descript.... maybe the new guidebook coming will give been directions and maybe a topo!

Pg 154 in Secrets if you get your hands on it.

 on: August 24, 2014, 09:19:15 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by markvnh

So where is this 5.8 you speak of - crystal crack? In relation to natural high. It's not on MP or here. I don't have Secrets handy but my buddy does so maybe it's in there.

Was up a couple weekends ago and did natural high again which is lots of fun. Walked all over to the right and up quite a ways. Found a route way up that had a couple pins and a bolt plus a couple places that looked like routes would go if you cleaned a bit.

There also seemed to be a few cut down trees - plus lots of blow down.

Any beta would be appreciated (unless it's in Secrets).


 on: August 24, 2014, 09:11:17 PM 
Started by v10mike - Last post by v10mike
A free weekend, a cool photo (, and three guys who love to suffer was the perfect recipe to make an ascent of the sprawling cliff line of C-Pond Bluff happen. I think it's safe to say it was Ri's idea. If it's going to be a suffer-fest or a grovel, it's probably Ri's idea. I suppose blame can't be laid since both Mike and I readily agreed to join him.

For those in the know, C-Pond is a somewhat "remote" lake found in the far western reaches of Maine (near that nifty corner formed by Maine, New Hampshire and Quebec). It's accessible via a network of permanent logging roads (gated in places) and is home to moose, loons, bears and two small "camps". It's a beautiful spot surrounded by forest and bordered on its eastern end by a massive wall of rock (the Bluff).

The wall itself is bigger than the photo we found led us to believe. I would guess the rock band stands close to 700 feet tall at its highest point and stretches over a quarter mile across the mountainside with several smaller satellite formations scattered about the periphery. It is a face climber's dream and a crack climber's nightmare. The rock is quite fracture-less. Opportunities for removable protection are few and far between. Incut edges, knobs and crystals are the norm here. Large overlaps mark almost every part of the wall and so the eye is drawn in a weaving pattern around them when looking for lines.

We had spent Saturday morning (August 2nd) finding our way in to the East end of the lake and the base of the cliff (about 3 miles of hiking from the gate on logging roads). Then giddily set up a quick camp and thrashed our way through logging slash, thick spruce and boulders to a meadow-like opening near the bottom of the tallest point of the cliff. From the base it still looked dry and we were ready for action.

First pitch - muddy and sober (200 feet - low 5th class). After talking ourselves out of a direct path up the right side of a huge overlap, we decided to zig-zag our way up a series of unprotected ramps over to the top of the first large overlap. Mike lead this one, speedily thrashing up the wet, muddy, vegetated and exposed ramps only to spend the next 20 minutes attempting to build some kind of belay that we wouldn't be horrified by (it didn't work).

Second pitch - wet, terrified and smelling sweetly of cedar (200 feet - 5.8). I boldly (and stupidly) grabbed fate by the balls and launched off on the lead on this one. After becoming one with a scrawny cedar seemingly growing out of pure rock (a sling on this being the only thing between the crux mantle and my two wide-eyed friends staring at their scrappy slung-crystal belay anchor). Pulling the mantle successfully brought me onto cleaner but wet face climbing. Endless, perfect face climbing for 175 feet was almost enough to make me forget that I only had two pathetic cam placements in weird blocky pockets. It ended at a perfect ledge with bomber gear, space to lounge, an incredible view and only two peals of thunder rumbling in the distance to remind us how horribly committed we now were.

Third pitch - an improbable solution (200 feet - 5.9). Together again at the belay we looked somewhat hopelessly around at the huge overlap towering over our wonderful ledge. "Traverse" cried the masses. "Escape"! Mike, however, would entertain no such talk. A short traverse led to a detached block hidden behind a scrappy tree. Ri and I watched astounded as he made short work of the block then seemed to tip toe up and across the very lip of the towering overlap then disappear from sight.  Before long he brought us up to his belay and I was astonished to see that a fantastic flake crack (the only real crack we had seen all day) snaked its way up the steep headwall above the overlap. With awesome exposure I climbed up through a corner system onto fantastic knob climbing above to the belay.

Fouth pitch - vertical river (200 feet - 5.8). Relief quickly followed my disappointment at finding Mike belaying from a fixed anchor. Clearly at least two other parties had been through this place and had placed pitons in an incipient crack. That meant at least four other people had made it to where we were and survived. Hope dawned! I took the final pitch of the day. Galloping heedlessly out onto what would normally have been ultra-enjoyable face climbing but turned out to be another unprotected slog up a vertical river. By the end of my leg quivering journey, I had almost become one with the water. The last 30 feet were typically unprotected but atypically covered in a heinous layer of slime and mud. To the casual observer, my final crawl into the trees probably would have evoked cliche images of the shipwrecked man finally dragging himself onto the beach after a month drifting at sea. Emotionally spent, I set up the belay and hauled up a cursing Mike and Ri to the top.

Dirty, wet and tired we packed up and wound our way back down to the base of the cliff and our tents just before dark. There may not have been many smiles or laughs that day but we had had fun. Adventure!

It turns out we had roughly followed the path of "C-Monster". A route put up a number of years ago by Roger Amory and Randy Baker. It is pretty much the path of least resistance up the tallest portion of the cliff and to my knowledge is the only route that has been done here.  There is tons of potential for single and multi-pitch routes.....for those who have nerves of steel or enough time to install a ton of fixed protection.

Cheers! Mike Veazey with Mike Sallade and Ri Fahnestock

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 10

Page created in 0.29 seconds with 19 queries.