Recent Posts

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31
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Long, easy, reasonably protected...
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on Yesterday at 11:11:43 AM »
Nice shot of that "Fairy Tale" traverse finish on Pinnacle!
32
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Overnight with Single boots?
« Last post by old_school on Yesterday at 10:59:54 AM »
I'v used stuff sacks and plastic garbage bags and stuff the boots down at the bottom of my bag. I never really noticed how clammy they were...first thing in the morning is throw on a pair of fresh, warm, dry socks and once you get moving you are good to go.
33
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: What is your favorite waterfall ice crampon?
« Last post by old_school on Yesterday at 10:54:52 AM »
I'm liking the stingers but I have the Scarpa Phantom Guides and they have a very low profile toe welt. I found that the standard BD toe bale is simply too wide and curved for this boot and my front point would skate around on me..sometimes pointing inward and other times slightly outward. Certainly not confidence inspiring...that's for sure. Never had this problem with the Petzl poons! So what I did was replaced the BD bales with Petzl bales that I cobbed off of an old pair of Sarkens. They no longer move, but when I put the Petzl bales on the furthest setting back...my boot is positioned at the same spot that it would have been on the furthest position forward with the BD bales...so I have little front point to work with.
34
Ice & Winter Climbing / Mt Lowell question
« Last post by Admin Al on Yesterday at 10:52:58 AM »
Has anyone been out to Mt Lowell in winter? 2 friends of mine, Maryann and Leo, rode their fat tire bikes up Sawyer River Road yesterday and then hiked Carrigan. Maryann took the attached picture. It kind of looks as if there may be some ice there. There's also an exposed rock band on the upper left face.

Just curious...
35
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Long, easy, reasonably protected...
« Last post by JBrochu on Yesterday at 10:51:25 AM »
You can climb Pinnacle Ridge at 5.7 or keep it at around 5.5 if you move left a half pitch under the chimney then move back right after the chimney. And make sure you traverse back out right onto that steep easy wall near the top of the Pinnacle for an awesome 5.4ish finish.

36
General Climbing / Re: Great Climbing Films
« Last post by strandman on Yesterday at 10:38:10 AM »
The best climbing film, no question is Master of Rock.

Pat Aments old black and white, no sound of THE JOHN GILL in his prime.  V8,,1967, shitty shoes..etc

It might be on Gill's website, I'm not sure
37
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Long, easy, reasonably protected...
« Last post by strandman on Yesterday at 09:55:45 AM »
Percy peak..that's the one I was trying to think of...I guess the 4 days of snow out here got to me
38
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Long, easy, reasonably protected...
« Last post by markvnh on Yesterday at 09:47:15 AM »
EDIT - it's the South West Face of Percy Peak!

North Face of Percy Peak is a great adventure! Nice approach hike and moderate bushwhack, four awesome pitches of well protected 5.4 slab almost to the summit - a summit with incredible views and then nice hike down!
39
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: What is your favorite waterfall ice crampon?
« Last post by markvnh on Yesterday at 09:39:17 AM »
I've been a Stinger user since they came out - replacing M10's. Before that it was another BD mono-point crampon that for the life of me I can't remember the model name - back in the 90's! And before that it was FootFangs that I actually converted to mono's with the fattest mono-point probably ever sold!

I also own Cyborg's and use them late season for gully ice or any ice when it tends to soften up / slushes up.

As for the SS problem some people report - I've had no problems with either of the above pairs however a buddy got Stinger's this year and he's getting some rust!
40
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Long, easy, reasonably protected...
« Last post by eyebolter on Yesterday at 09:38:30 AM »
Whitehorse Standard.   Only one pitch of 5.5 and reasonably well protected for a slab.

IMHO the best easy route in the Whites.
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