« Last post by pappy on September 28, 2016, 10:16:29 AM »
I was rapping down Wheeler with a couple of other guys after doing the Great Corner, and setting up the last rap I saw that John had tied the ropes together with a flat eight. I was unamused and said that he might have a death wish, but I didn't. He got semi-belligerent and said that he had used it for years (he's been climbing for nearly twenty years, so not a newbie) and he knew lots of other climbers who used it, and it was just fine. Whatever. I checked to make sure that he had plenty of tail and reminded him of one of the Southern rules of booty: You get hurt being a moron we don't do a rescue, we hit you in the head with a rock and split your gear. As he started down I told Jeff to watch the knot, which during the rap rolled three or four inches down the rope, and that is a low angle rap. Needless to say, after John was down I retied the ropes with a triple fisherman's (my knot of choice, f**k the EDK). Jeff told his brother what he had seen, and John turned kind of pale. Don't think he uses the flat 8 anymore. Cheap lesson.