This is a very good article by Erik Thatcher about Cannon Cliff. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...
That is interesting article.
For safety, I would like to have a description of the line of fracture of the rock. Vertigo is certainly a nice crack and the rock look very solid. At the start of Moby grape. the large corner brook loose and nobody was there.
As some one said, "solid as a rock who ever coined that never climb"
Route like ambrosia second and third pitch, british where coming are very dangerous route. I won't go in british even if you pay me. I climbed it because it was there.
I climbed with one of my friend and he is a very strong climber. He lack a little bit of the basic technique as he climb hard from the begining of his career. With some exercises, he can be very strong like a 5.11 on sight climber.
Nobody teach that any more. You go with people in a slab. see the hole in a 5.7 slab and on ten climber, only one or two will place there feet correctly to have a solid stance. they don't see the move, they glue to the rock because there shoes are good. Other wise, they will fall. I remember to be on a lead and have to traverse a wet slab with more than 75 feet over the belayer (wedge white horse). It need technique other than climbing 5.11 after multi try.
even if those who don't want to climb canon are good in their ethic of climbing