Recent Posts

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Lost & Found / Found - Nomic at Cannon
« Last post by nickA on February 15, 2018, 07:45:49 am »
I found a Petzl Nomic at Cannon on Monday 2/12/17. It's behind the counter at IME now. Describe the tool to them and leave those guys a six pack (minimum).

Injuries, Medical & Training / Totally bummed! Advice please
« Last post by Coreshot on February 15, 2018, 04:58:19 am »
So my first fall on ice didn't go well.  I'm no newb, I know you NEVER fall on ice.  I still couldn't tell you what REALLY happened, but I think maybe I went on a tool that wasn't good because it blew and I decked.   Nothing dramatic it was only four feet off the ground, but it was enough.  I suffered a full tear of the ligament in my ankle.  When the ligament tore it took some specks of bone with it.  I literally can't put the weight of a comforter on my foot right now without extreme 10 out of 10 pain.

Anybody ever had a grade 3+ ankle sprain?  Did you fully recover? What helped your recovery? What hindered?
Ice & Winter Climbing / Umbilicals: Are we doing it wrong?
« Last post by RjBlake on February 14, 2018, 05:05:55 pm »
Warning: this is a post in which a newbie climber asks a question. [flame on]

I realize there are arguments both for and against umbilicals. I'm not getting into that. Presupposing you have decided to use an umbilical for whatever reason (and you're not soloing), would it possibly make more sense to have the umbilical clipped into your lead rope, rather than directly to your belay loop, with some kind of screamer like connection between the umbilical and the belay loop providing the protection against a dropped tool, and a full strength umbilical providing a running belay.

I've illustrated what I mean here:

In this manner, your top ice tools is always your highest piece of pro, and your tool is loaded dynamically with the stretch of the rope in the system absorbing energy, rather than statically onto a short tether. Obviously this only matters in the rare case where you've severely screwed up and are taking a fall...which you shouldn't I get that this isn't a very big use case, and may not be worth the additional complexity. Please check out the link before responding as I think that makes it much clearer. I'm aware that not falling is the way to go. Just curious to see what people think, and if this is one of those ideas that was already tried and discarded.
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by Homeless Junkie on February 14, 2018, 09:54:19 am »
 I havenít had any trouble at all the last couple weeks. I drive a Dodge 2500 that doesnít fit in between the lines too. I try to stay outta town on the weekends. Traffic and parking are like night and day!
General Climbing / Re: Towing issues along roads
« Last post by Admin Al on February 14, 2018, 07:44:41 am »
what can I say? don't park on the side of the road! only park on a legit pullout.
General Climbing / Towing issues along roads
« Last post by rbirk on February 13, 2018, 11:56:55 pm »
I heard of several towings recently of people parked along roads in North Conway area. They have been parked way outside the white line on non-snowing days, but it seems state police have been pickier this year. Anyone have any more info of what one can and cannot do nowadays?
Lost & Found / Re: FOUND- Bag at Cathedral Ledge Parking
« Last post by rbirk on February 13, 2018, 10:04:39 am »
Great to hear!
General Climbing / Re: The Ballad of Holts Ledge (Author Unknown)
« Last post by on February 13, 2018, 08:34:15 am »
So good.
Lost & Found / Re: FOUND- Bag at Cathedral Ledge Parking
« Last post by climbamt on February 13, 2018, 08:15:11 am »
 UPDATE- The bag has been found, one of the participants accidentally put it in her car :) Thanks for sharing and the positive thoughts!
Lost & Found / FOUND- Bag at Cathedral Ledge Parking
« Last post by climbamt on February 12, 2018, 08:02:19 am »
Hi All,

Sunday 11 February our group left a red bag full of gear at the Cathedral Ledges parking spot. The equipment is used to facilitate climbing for  people with disabilities. If you found it we would love to have it returned.

Many thanks!

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