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31
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by strandman on August 25, 2015, 09:50:54 AM »
The old letting the rope slip bullshit was from Ed Leeper. he originally made hangers and hooks and pins. Ed was convinced that everything was gonna rip out so you let the rope slip some to soften the catch  Sound familiar ?

Same as larry Penberthy who started MSR safest guy in the mountains..40lbs for a day trip.

never had any issue with bare hands or hip belays, but then again, i own a stich plate.

You know  how to spot a guide  ?  He's the one with ALL the gear that the shop pro-dealed him ... ALL of it
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Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by fresh on August 25, 2015, 09:46:06 AM »
I like wearing gloves. I'm able to flake rope a little faster, rappel a little faster, and my hands stay a little cleaner with my dirty-ass rope. I think they add a small margin of safety, too; I've heard of people getting dropped on big falls because of burned hands. There might have been other mistakes in those cases, but I still like an extra margin.

I also use lightweight work gloves, which don't really add significant weight. If it makes belaying and rappelling easier, it's worth it to me.
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Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by ralbert20 on August 25, 2015, 08:48:50 AM »
How can I possibly be the only one to say, "yes" here? I love my gloves - less for belaying, more for rapping. They seem to help on road trips too, as my hands don't seem to get as beat up. Maybe I do have weak skin/ not enough calluses, but I'll continue to use them all the time!
34
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by The other tomcat on August 25, 2015, 08:44:53 AM »
Oh dear, the best I can hope for is " a certain dullness " I suppose.  I was fishing the Cold just this spring when the truck pulled up and dumped. 21 Browns later ( all released of course ), I went home!
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by kenreville on August 25, 2015, 07:22:58 AM »
March weather in Baja is delightful.
 
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by ed_esmond on August 24, 2015, 10:13:28 PM »
Ed, we all know the only people qualified to give grammar advice are Tradman and LL.
as for "lucky:" i think he's actually a smart guy who just loves to "f'' with all of you…"
ed "the medium is the message" e

A given.
The question: why?

Why?? 

Because it's like fishing for "truck trout." 

Imagine: the hatchery truck has just pulled away, the pool is full of "hatchery*" fish, and they'll hit anything you toss their way.  You know you shouldn't; but, you can't stop casting to them. 

And, they know they shouldn't; but, they can't stop going after the fly...

In a while, most come to their senses and say: "this is just bloodsport" and stop fishing (or stop rising to the fly…)

Others, perhaps with a mean and sadistic streak, (or certain dullness) do not…

ed "it takes two to tango" e

ps. Baja beach house, right?  What's it like there in March??

* ie. "not the sharpest knives in the drawer…."
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Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by kenreville on August 24, 2015, 08:59:45 PM »
Gloves are just another 2 items that you will need to keep track of.....then there's the weight.....

A well anchored attentive belayer doesn't benefit from the use of gloves IMO.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: standard route at white horse
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on August 24, 2015, 08:57:44 PM »
Lucky Lorax Luke

39
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on August 24, 2015, 08:40:57 PM »
I'm thinking more of the low-no stretch rope (hemp) scenario. I would think you could catch a low-moderate fall factor via hip belay and sans gloves with a modern dynamic rope (and some soft stuff), but a static hemp rope? Probably a good reason why the saying was "The leader must never fall".
40
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Do you use belay gloves?
« Last post by The other tomcat on August 24, 2015, 07:40:48 PM »
I don't know about the "era", but I have caught stout people on leader falls without gloves but would never let the rope slip intentionally, generally enough soft stuff in the mix to absorb some energy.

If hip belaying I would tie in, even at the bottom, and run the rope accordingly.

I don't use gloves but think they are probably a great idea.
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