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31
General Climbing / pop quiz
« Last post by mopowers on July 21, 2016, 06:55:03 PM »
Can anyone name these two cliff? Bonus points if you have climbed either one.
32
Trip Reports / Re: TR: 12 July 2016: HUGE NH LINKUP
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on July 20, 2016, 06:26:22 PM »
The key to the auto road is to drive faster...both ways

 ;D

I don't think I mentioned it but while driving down the autoroad we got bottlenecked on 5-mile with both directions not willing to pass each other. Lost at least 10 minutes on that descent.   ;)
33
General Climbing / Re: Great article about Cannon Cliff
« Last post by strandman on July 20, 2016, 09:00:29 AM »
Well,  actually Poko is quite a bit like Yosemite i think.  Cracks do not break, they are the result of breakage..like erosion and water and stress.

Maybe if you didn't do The British,,you would not have been in trouble
34
General Climbing / Re: Great article about Cannon Cliff
« Last post by lucky luke on July 19, 2016, 10:42:22 PM »
I think many times the rock fractures,, we call those cracks...some times they go vertical and some times not.

crack in sandstone is not the same as calcair or granite. some will broke after chemical erosion and other after an eartquake. yosemite is not like poko munshine.

the,article is interesting because it gave clue on where the hole will be. the resistance of the rock to the pressure of the nuts and how it can brake.

I climbed british because it was there and i used all my technique to get out of trouble. the way rock fracture is very important when you climb trad (prefer adventure climbing).
[/quote]
35
New Rock Routes / Re: New routes Mt Forist far left
« Last post by abeach on July 19, 2016, 09:28:08 AM »
There is one more route to the left of the three mentioned by slacker

Subtle like Bob Ross - 5.6 - 1 pitch of fun slab climbing with a low crux and a sort of cruxy middle section
36
General Climbing / Re: Great article about Cannon Cliff
« Last post by strandman on July 18, 2016, 07:10:00 PM »
I think many times the rock fractures,, we call those cracks...some times they go vertical and some times not.

British is a horrible route..which if you are so into safety, you would have  avoided

You don't need technique to traverse wet rock..it's the same  thing as all else..just fucking do it
37
Gear Exchange / WTB Women's Mountain Mama Harness and climbing clothes
« Last post by moose1 on July 18, 2016, 01:21:16 PM »
Looking for a used full body harness by Mountain Mama. Would also be interested in used maternity climbing clothes in size S or M. Please email me with any info/offers. Thanks!
38
General Climbing / Re: Great article about Cannon Cliff
« Last post by lucky luke on July 18, 2016, 11:13:36 AM »
This is a very good article by Erik Thatcher about Cannon Cliff. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED...

https://erikthatcherclimbs.com/2016/07/10/its-alive/

That is interesting article.

For safety, I would like to have a description of the line of fracture of the rock. Vertigo is certainly a nice crack and the rock look very solid. At the start of Moby grape. the large corner brook loose and nobody was there.

As some one said, "solid as a rock who ever coined that never climb"

Route like ambrosia second and third pitch, british where coming are very dangerous route. I won't go in british even if you pay me. I climbed it because it was there.

I climbed with one of my friend and he is a very strong climber. He lack a little bit of the basic technique as he climb hard from the begining of his career. With some exercises, he can be very strong like a 5.11 on sight climber.

Nobody teach that any more. You go with people in a slab. see the hole in a 5.7 slab and on ten climber, only one or two will place there feet correctly to have a solid stance. they don't see the move, they glue to the rock because there shoes are good. Other wise, they will fall. I remember to be on a lead and have to traverse a wet slab with more than 75 feet over the belayer (wedge white horse). It need technique other than climbing 5.11 after multi try.

even if those who don't want to climb canon are good in their ethic of climbing
39
General Climbing / Re: Famous climbing trees
« Last post by lucky luke on July 18, 2016, 10:58:48 AM »
of course this tree wasn't a pine at all, but a hemlock. Interesting that this was cut down, but the Heather tree wasn't..

probably the sap of the three when we took it. Remember to climb it vaguely.
40
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Stellar weather at Cannon today
« Last post by strandman on July 18, 2016, 10:15:28 AM »
I was up around 13,000' yesterday in cotton shirt..no sleeves of course....
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