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41
General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on May 09, 2017, 05:16:58 PM »
I have only drilled about 100 bolts by hand and if i never do annother one thats fine by me.  totaly jacks up my tendonitis.
42
I'm going nuts trying to find this short funny film about a guy bringing multiple trad racks on this "epic" climb, placing gear after gear and still running out of gear! Then asking his belayer to give him more gear. You see the camera zoom out and the leader reaching down to his belayer, retrieving another trad rack.. He didn't get very far :)

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General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by pappy on May 09, 2017, 10:18:38 AM »
I feel its mandatory that anyone thinking they want to bolt stuff should start by hand drilling. teaches you to really think about where the bolts go.  once you grow up and get old like a lot of us here the hand drilling is pretty much out of the question health wise...

I dunno Nick, I think I'm older than you and I'm still hand drilling, ground up 'cause that's pretty much required on the alpine faces in the Daks. I think all routes like that (as opposed to overhanging sport stuff) should be done that way for what will probably be an unpopular reason: It results in the minimum number of bolts. The reason NC is the way it is (although the rep is a little overblown) is because when you finally crank down that bolt after 45 min. of agony you say, 'Goddammed if I'm doing that again until I absolutely have to.'
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General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by Admin Al on May 09, 2017, 06:25:13 AM »
Al, I am sort of a local up there.

Let me know an address, and I'll drop some $ for the replacements.

Or, set up a gofundme, and post the link here.

-Rob


Thnx... if anyone wants to donate anything, you can just use the regular PayPal donation method to al@neclimbs.com.
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General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on May 09, 2017, 06:24:53 AM »
I never said they had to do it ground up. just saying that if you make them bolt their proj with a hand drill maybe they will put a bit more thought into it. BTW some of my best climbs  were ground up. You just need to be open minded and fix any mistakes you might have made. celibacy is pretty darnd good just the way it is and that was hand drilled on led with no modifications after the fact.
46
Events & Announcements / Re: Net Neutrality under attack again
« Last post by Admin Al on May 09, 2017, 06:20:46 AM »
Saw this John Oliver segment last week. Humerous, but right on...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpbOEoRrHyU
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General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on May 08, 2017, 08:59:06 PM »
I feel its mandatory that anyone thinking they want to bolt stuff should start by hand drilling. teaches you to really think about where the bolts go.  once you grow up and get old like a lot of us here the hand drilling is pretty much out of the question health wise...

Ok I'll probably regret this but I'm going to say I prefer bolts that protect the route vs. where the stance to drill was. I have insane respect for the hand drilled bolts I clip from minuscule stances... and similar respect for those that were drilled from scary hooks... but I have a modern take that I would rather see potential hand-drilled placements on easier terrain skipped for a rap-placed-bolt where it made sense on new routes.

Disclaimer I have hand drilled 2 bolts and power drilled 7. The only decent route I put up, a 5.8 on Lost Ledge, we TR'd a few times to decide exactly where we should place the bolts to make it a good route at the grade/location. Climbing it 12 years later I am still happy with each of the 5 bolts we drilled.
48
Partner Exchange / Re: New-ish guy looking for partner
« Last post by JSteitzer on May 08, 2017, 08:12:20 PM »
Hey man,

I'm over on the Vermont border so too far to be your partner, but if you ever want to make the haul to Rumney hit me up.

Best,
Jon
49
General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on May 08, 2017, 07:21:46 PM »
I feel its mandatory that anyone thinking they want to bolt stuff should start by hand drilling. teaches you to really think about where the bolts go.  once you grow up and get old like a lot of us here the hand drilling is pretty much out of the question health wise...
50
General Climbing / Re: DAMN BOLT CHOPPING CRAP ONCE AGAIN
« Last post by ralbert20 on May 08, 2017, 03:40:26 PM »
Al, I am sort of a local up there.

Let me know an address, and I'll drop some $ for the replacements.

Or, set up a gofundme, and post the link here.

-Rob
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