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 41 
 on: October 20, 2014, 05:45:38 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by The other tomcat
I started climbing in the Gunks in 1978. Back then you rarely saw anyone toprope anything to the right of the Uberfall, and if you did it was usually Kama Sutra or On Any Monday type stuff. The addition of the bolted rappel anchors made the TR problem worse, as have large guided groups, or posses of noobs. Sadly, the problems there compound themselves, as people camp on routes as described here, they are unwilling to move elsewhere because when they get there, some other party will be camped on the route they wanted.

It used to be, and worked well, that people just led stuff and moved on. That way if you walked up with your partner and the leader was moving along at a reasonable pace, you could predict what would happen and the timeframe. A few years back we wanted on Never Never Land, but a party of three was doing it. When we came back 2.5 hrs. later, they were still lapping it and J-Accuse.

I had less than one year of climbing under my belt first trip there, and my buddy John and I walked down and swung leads up Red Pillar. It's actually kind of sad to see so much TR'ing because there is no place safer or easier to learn to lead than the Gunks. You can't actually plan a weekend day of routes now, because you have no idea if you can get on stuff.

 42 
 on: October 18, 2014, 09:51:16 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Jeff
Over the past 5-10 years I've seen this more and more at the Gunks as groups come ( 2-6 people) with one person ( or 2 at most) willing or able to lead trad-- they lead, set up a TR and everyone climbs the route (first pitch), sometimes even doing it twice before they move on to something else-- I'm retired and avoid the problem by mostly going to the Gunks during the week-- weekends are ridiculous, especially 3 day weekends, and the worst is Columbus Day paired with Canadian Thanksgiving-- the numbers are just too great!!

 43 
 on: October 18, 2014, 08:07:44 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
The practice of leading a pitch and doing a top rope when there is two or three party who want to do the route is not some thing that I saw often in the pass.
It is true that you see it more these days.  I remember the first time I encountered this was at The Gunks back in the 90's.  I was speechless, but just moved on to the next climb in my range.  Seriously though, LL, at most sport areas, I hardly see this happening.  Wait in lead to LEAD a route, yes, but some a-hole dominating a climb with a TR, very infrequent. 

 44 
 on: October 18, 2014, 07:58:33 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Yep.  No different than the azz-hat that insisted on setting up a TR on Whitehorse on the pine tree at the far end of the slabs a couple of weeks ago despite the fact that we had told him we were rapping off and to give us a few minutes and it would be all his.  Never crossed my mind that he might have been a sport climber as he was walking all over my rope tarp, but 'inconsiderate a-hole' certainly did run through my mind more than once- among other things.

I most agree a-hole is a better description. I was close to ants line, last year and there was ten tope roping a-hole waiting to climb. It happen also in the first pitch of intimidation.

The practice of leading a pitch and doing a top rope when there is two or three party who want to do the route uis not some thing that I saw often in the pass.
 

 45 
 on: October 18, 2014, 06:56:32 PM 
Started by slacker - Last post by Chinos
this is a really fun place!

 46 
 on: October 18, 2014, 08:17:08 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by danf
The label I would rather use for this fella is an inconsiderate a-hole.  There is nothing trad vs sport here, in spite of your continuing fascination with it.
Yep.  No different than the azz-hat that insisted on setting up a TR on Whitehorse on the pine tree at the far end of the slabs a couple of weeks ago despite the fact that we had told him we were rapping off and to give us a few minutes and it would be all his.  Never crossed my mind that he might have been a sport climber as he was walking all over my rope tarp, but 'inconsiderate a-hole' certainly did run through my mind more than once- among other things.

 47 
 on: October 18, 2014, 08:09:59 AM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by Admin Al
The Flyin-Brian-5k Fun Run/Walk is this Sunday at 1PM.  This is Hana's community project this year.

Flyin' Brian 5k Run/Walk
Join the family of Brian Delaney for a fun trail run or walk in Brian's memory to benefit the Appalachian Mountain Club's Youth Opportunity Program!
WHEN: Sunday October 19, 1 PM
WHERE: Camp Ketcha, 336 Black Point Rd., Scarborough, ME
COST: $20 (includes t-shirt)
REGISTER: www.runreg.com/flyin-brian-5k
VOLUNTEERS: Email briandelaney5k@gmail.com

 48 
 on: October 18, 2014, 07:26:05 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
The label I would rather use for this fella is an inconsiderate a-hole.  There is nothing trad vs sport here, in spite of your continuing fascination with it.
The truth of the matter is climbing at The Gunks on Columbus Day weekend brings along with it crowd issues and attitude problems.  Do so at your own peril.

 49 
 on: October 17, 2014, 10:18:30 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
My own experience and posts over on mp.com show that it is at trad areas, esp The Gunks, at which parties have the tendency to siege a climb with their top-ropes and not give way to another leader, or not even push the TR aside so the leader can have passage.

yes,sport climber who do top roping in trad area. who else do that?

It happened to me last weekend. sport climber who barely did a 5.5 set a top rope when other people, me and an other party, was waiting for them to clear the place.

Trad climber don't mind if sport climber use the cliff, just a little bit of understanding to the fact that we do bottom up to the top and gave the priority to lead the route. If the guy bring his partner to the summit it will take less time and we will have been able to climb the route. (note; I was with beginner and the route was perfect for the end of a hard day)

 50 
 on: October 17, 2014, 09:52:03 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by JoeC
Ill try to be there!

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