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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: trad ethic
« Last post by kenreville on November 27, 2015, 05:31:17 PM »
He could have used them to ascend his imaginary rope.

I lol'ed.
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: trad ethic
« Last post by strandman on November 27, 2015, 04:03:41 PM »
If ropes get any thinner....... ::)

Of course FOTH may exist mostly in the imagination as well
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: trad ethic
« Last post by JBro on November 27, 2015, 03:58:16 PM »
He could have used them to ascend his imaginary rope.
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: trad ethic
« Last post by strandman on November 27, 2015, 03:48:23 PM »
True,, a very sad story

BUT..prussiks would have helped in what way ?
Gear Exchange / Re: Black Diamond Vipers
« Last post by Admin Al on November 27, 2015, 02:42:34 PM »
WOW that's a great price on some very nice tools.
Trip Reports / Re: Prose and Conns (Big Bend NP, TX)
« Last post by IOMeara on November 27, 2015, 11:45:08 AM »

Hey, so where did you get info about the climbing? I might be heading out there in the winter and although my girlfriend wants to mostly hike, I'd love to do some climbing as well. It is hard to find any specific beta about any climbs. I saw that the park has a pamphlet but I'd like to be able to see what its like before we go.... Dutch Girl sounds sweet.
Gear Exchange / Black Diamond Vipers
« Last post by DGoguen on November 27, 2015, 10:34:17 AM »
Black Diamond Vipers. Brand new Picks out once never sharpened.
A million miles on the axes but many to go.  $150.00
Pick up in Conway.
Events & Announcements / Re: 2016 MWV Ice Fest - North Conway, NH
« Last post by MWV_IceFest on November 27, 2015, 09:12:03 AM »
Don't miss DRY ICE Tools at this year's Ice Fest! This is your chance to take your training to the next level. Trying to get fit for ice climbing, but don't have time to get into the mountains? DRY ICE Tools are here to help! Check out the blog at to learn all about The Kronos. It is the worlds first T rated, CE certified technical ice climbing tool made from wood!
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: trad ethic
« Last post by lucky luke on November 26, 2015, 04:44:46 PM »
Not many crevasse in NE..but, I would say if you think your gonna fall in one, i would carry ascenders

yes. You remember the guy in tuckerman ravine who died when he felt in a crevasse last year or so, He want to close to the border to fill is water bottel and felt in the bottom, nobody was able to help him.

sad story.
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: when things go wrong
« Last post by lucky luke on November 26, 2015, 04:11:08 PM »
the start of the 3+ pitch ;)

Look like ice managery with twenty below zero on the left. Not in good condition for sure, but maybe harder than it is. I climb where the pillar is,  between the climber and the rock. Hard to protect when I did it, it was medusa. With a hard top and icycle under.

On the lake, I was looking for crazy diamond.i saw it one time in good shape and it was an amazing icycle.

When things go wrong on that climb, you rip all the gear: nothing hold in pressure plate over icycle. The question is do you run it out, an take the risk or place as much pro as you take the risk. On the picture, we saw the climber doing a high step. all is weight is on one feet, in good ice, if the feet slip, the climber can't used his right feet because he his to hight. As the right hand is swinging, his only safety his is left tool. If the ice under his left feet broke, all is weight will be in his left arms, probably twisted. the fall will be without notice and the climber can't do any thing to protect himself.

If you look at great climber, like jeff lowe...water fall ice... you will see that he practically always do small step on this kind of ice and place two pick in before moving his feet to be in equilibrum on two or more point and be ready to jump to avoid to hit the ice in your way down. Of course, in the picture we are in a class 4 or 5. It is not an acrobatic climb like when you are doing mixt climbing.

The climber seems to say the black dike is not a 3 because I am good I can climb that. Which is, in my opinion, a bad attitude. One day, chouinard climb the north face of a route in the west. The weather was perfect and they went to the summit in a record time. at the top, he was no happy. He feel that he didn't climb the route. the next winter he went to the cliff and climb it in snow storm, the chimney was plaster with ice, he had hard happy time and was still there to write the story after.

So, we saw a comparison when things go wrong from some one with technique, Yvon Chouinard, and some one else who want that people think that he his good. When things go wrong, and I am not enjoying the fact that it can happen, I rather prefer to be a Chouinard.     
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