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41
Epics and Accidents / Re: Alps Avalanche story
« Last post by lucky luke on March 25, 2015, 01:12:59 PM »
Read this on kzone figured it would be good for discussion here as well....

it is good for discussion for sure. heuristic behavior, instead of fact? Here is the text: " I noticed a muffled ‘whumping’ sound as our skis broke through a thin layer of hoare frost about 30cm under the fresh layer of snow. We stopped and discussed our options. Due to this particular gully being known amongst locals as a safer option due to it’s short length and low pitch, also taking into account the fact that we had skied the line on previous trips in similar avalanche conditions without an issue,"

for those who remember what his an heuristic, I think that a decision base on local opinion (that can include avi post) and previous attempt...is not safe. This is short cut to what happen really.

I think that the wump was wind slab. As i can understand, the guy had a good "I buy a course" knowledge on what is hoare frost. Not sure that it is the reason why the wind slab collapse.
42
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by JBrochu on March 25, 2015, 01:07:59 PM »
Convenience is no excuse for drinking mediocre beer! Unless everyone that intends to go insists, in which case we can blame it on them!

I'll start a thread in the off topic section in the near future and see what kind of interest we can generate.
43
Climbing Gear Q & A / Tenaya shoes?
« Last post by tks on March 25, 2015, 12:34:51 PM »
Hi, looking to replace my acopa aztecs.  I've been looking for locations that carry Tenaya shoes (thinking the Masai model) rather than go through the hassle of ordering online.

Anybody seen these in stores in the Northeast?

thx
44
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by markvnh on March 25, 2015, 12:06:27 PM »
...I'd be more apt to drive to Schillings from southern NH than Moat. While always at Woodstock after climbing their beer is only mediocre. It was just a "maybe more convenient factor!"
45
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by strandman on March 25, 2015, 09:54:10 AM »
When I started this thread, I didn't think it would generate so much controversy.

John, If someone added a bolt on the 1st hard move on Intimidation, it would probably get chopped within a week, ( and I wouldn't have to do it). I would much rather use a stick, than have a bolt there, and as someone already mentioned, it sets a bad precedent. Hell, even at 69, I still can do that move, ( after I come down and fully test the nut).

I agree 100%..my point being that the "make it safe" crowd might want to add a bolt,, and that's the part I don't like.  If a route has been done a certain way for years, then it stays that way (excepting gear upgrades)

Afriend of mine out here did a 50' 11B back in  1984..all  gear, A1 stufff. It now has SEVEN bolts next to the cracks !!! NO DOUBT that Intimidation would have a bolt if it was done now..NONE and that would suck

Now,,about those beers.. :-*
46
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by JBrochu on March 25, 2015, 09:52:15 AM »
No North Woodstock!

Schillings has the big room upstairs maybe we can get it for a night? And a bigger and better beer selection than Moat. But it's a bit out-of-the-way for the NC crew.

Moat would be cool too but it's always so damned crowded.

Would people go to Schillings? If so, I'll work on it.


Edit: to clarify I don't want to do North Woodstock.

47
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by markvnh on March 25, 2015, 09:45:09 AM »
Schillings Brewery (for those folks up north already)? Woodstock Brewery (convenient for those folks in southern NH)? Moat Mountain (for those valley locals)?

Pick JB! And then suggest a time and date!
48
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by old_school on March 25, 2015, 09:30:36 AM »
Actually, we should all go fancy beer drinking together sometime.

I'm in!!  ;D ;)
49
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by JBrochu on March 25, 2015, 09:12:39 AM »
Actually, we should all go fancy beer drinking together sometime.
50
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by JBrochu on March 25, 2015, 09:09:31 AM »
That was a different thread... but good idea nonetheless. Maybe SOP should be; a thread runs past 3 pages, it's suspended until we have beers.

BRILLIANT IDEA!!!  4 stars on a 3 star scale…

but, do those beers have to be "tasty" craft brews that have "citrus" or "oatmeal" or "expresso?"

really, all of this wanking about "bolts" pales when you consider how "craft" beers are really ruining drinking….

if i want "citrus" i'll have a glass of orange juice, damn it...

if'i  want "oatmeal," i'll boil up a bowl of steel cut oats, thank you very much…

and if'n i need "expresso," it's really much better with a biscotti…

ed "who knows that once you pussied out and placed a bolt, you owe to every one else to at least have done it right…" e

ps. "Bill was using mostly Petzl self drills, which were kinda popular in the day....Suck Hole shit bolts that should be pulled.. "  I couldn't agree more, would any sane person keep driving a car with an airbag that might randomly blow up in their face??

pps. Tommycat: I suspect they were less bothered by what you said than how you said it (just saying…)

ppps.  Spriggy: Don't you have enough to do without "rabble-rousing??"


Ed you need to go fancy beer drinking with me sometime. I'll hook you up with all kinds of craft beers with no fruit, oatmeal, or espresso -- and no vanilla faaaaken beans!
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