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when: Tuesday, August 1st, 4-10pm
where: Flatbread Co., North Conway, NH
what: Silent Auction, Raffle, Live Music & More!

Donations will contribute towards:
Legal support and represent the public's interest in halting the Cog Railway's proposal to build a luxury hotel in the alpine zone on Mount Washington.
Community outreach to inform the public about the proposal and its harmful effects on the alpine tundra zone.

Come to Flatbread Pizza in North Conway, NH on Tuesday, August 1st from 4-10pm to support Protect Mount Washinton (PMW). In addition to the awesome silent auction/raffle a portion of all food sales will be donated to Protect Mount Washington. Spread the word and bring friends. Mount Washington needs your help!

Raffle/Silent Auction Donations from:  Jetboil, Outdoor Research, Patagonia, IME, CAMP, Hyperlite Mountain Gear, CAMP, Sterling Rope, Knox Mountain Bags, Arc'Teryx, Access Fund, Untapped, DMM, Suspended Designs, Black Diamond, RAB, EMS, The Local Grocer, Rodan & Fields, Alpinist, La Sportiva, Ski The Whites, Julbo, and MORE!



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General Climbing / Re: PSA - Hugo's Horror Revisited
« Last post by bubbalee on July 28, 2017, 01:00:32 AM »
Yes there is . Initially there were only hangers with equalized cordalette. I thought so few people would actually climb the route and the one's who did could deal with my poor placement of bolts so be it. Later on someone replaced the hangers with rings. I'm glad someone is willing to rectify the situation. I live in Colorado now so it's not on my list of things to do I am glad people are enjoying it. Please do whatever needs to be done to make it more enjoyable
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Partner Exchange / Re: New-ish guy looking for partner
« Last post by jmitchell on July 27, 2017, 11:19:52 PM »
I will be in NH next week, July 30 - Aug 4. I would love to spend a morngin, afternoon or full day at Rumney with someone who knows the area. Coming in from Texas. Looking to sport climb. Lead 5.8-5-10, second 5.11s. Anyone up to show Rumney to a lost native.
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Partner Exchange / Re: Mid week climbing partner wanted
« Last post by jmitchell on July 27, 2017, 11:16:44 PM »
I will be in NH next week, July 30 - Aug 4. I would love to spend a morngin, afternoon or full day at Rumney with someone who knows the area. Coming in from Texas. Looking to sport climb. Lead 5.8-5-10, second 5.11s. Anyone up to show Rumney to a lost native.
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General Climbing / Re: Top rope
« Last post by Nick Grant on July 27, 2017, 09:07:56 PM »
Jules:   Rumney, NH, would be a great place for you to become comfortable on rock real fast.  You can easily climb ten one-pitch sport routes in a day there.  The problem is that it's a l-o-n-g drive from Portland.  It's definitely not a good area for setting top-rope anchors from the top of routes, but if you know someone who owns draws and can clip bolts, you're all set.



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Rock Climbing: Sport / Re: Rumney guidebook
« Last post by M_Sprague on July 27, 2017, 06:32:03 PM »
Sounds like the printer had issues and it got delayed a little (3rd week of August ETA now)
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Conditions / Re: Kancamagus Highway area to the top of the pass
« Last post by M_Sprague on July 27, 2017, 02:02:49 PM »
You are correct, Tom, to the right of the fire ring and big roofs. Fixed, thanks.

I decided to call the 10 to the left of First Impressions, I just want to Make a Volcano.
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General Climbing / Re: Top rope
« Last post by iclimb on July 27, 2017, 12:37:07 PM »
Jeff thanks for your words of wisdom and for responding to me. I'm certainly not experienced on rock, but lead ice and has some multipitch transition and rope management experience in that realm. I'm really just brand new to rock outside so my big issue is simply not being familiar with areas and where to find stuff. I'm singularly focused on safety. I don't over estimate my abilities and don't give people more trust Han they've earned. I also never take a climb and it's dangers for granted - a 5.5 can easily kill you and I never forget that.

For me it seems like a very good idea to link up with someone who knows the area well so they can show me where the more accessible top rope areas are. While I may be leading later this summer, it would be sport only as I don't have much for trad gear yet or the experience to use it safely. However I do have the draws and other rack pieces needed for sport, building anchors at bolts, cleaning anchors, rapping, building top rope anchors off trees, etc

If there are any top rope walk up dense areas someone wants to introduce me to, I'd be very grateful and will buy someone a beer. I can also safely belay a lead climber is at the same crag someone wanted to jet up any easy sport.

I think a guide for eventual trad experience will be my route there, and I will probably link up with Erik E whom I've already spoken with.
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General Climbing / Re: Top rope
« Last post by iclimb on July 27, 2017, 12:25:30 PM »
Jules - Portland Maine area
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General Climbing / Re: PSA - Hugo's Horror Revisited
« Last post by Jeff on July 27, 2017, 08:43:19 AM »
Hugo's Horror: We climbed it yesterday, equipped to solve some of the above mentioned anchor problems. We were a rope of three, and due to "child pick up" responsibilities, the third ( who had the pack with the chain links, wrenches, etc) had to rap off after 2 pitches to get home in time for the pick up, so the only improvement we could make was to cut all the "tat" off the top anchor, leaving just the dyneema "alpine draw" material left as mentioned by markvnh in the original post. We did as Al H did and climbed to the better ring anchors of Space Time Continuum about 20 feet right and 6 feet higher to make our first rappel. As mentioned, our friend with the gear pack has every intention of going back up soon to "make things right" but for now the top anchor is less than ideal and since it was so easy to avoid using it, that's what we did!

The anchor at the top of the 3rd pitch, as Al already discussed, is also much less than ideal; we were initially equipped to make that better as well but didn't remember until the gear pack was 350 feet below us ::). Senior moments!!  In Al's photo where the rap rope partially pulled through the ring, you can see that the ring is one of the old rolled aluminum ones; I wish people would stop using those cheap things on established routes! I have certainly carried them with extra sling material in the mountains for emergency use, but they have NO PLACE on popular routes with fixed bolted anchors.

BTW yesterday was a fabulous day to have all of the Willard cliff to ourselves!! Sunshine, blue skies and a nice cool breeze once we were on the 2nd pitch! Definitely a "Fifty Center" in local parlance! ;D 8) Jeff Lea
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