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41
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on September 20, 2016, 08:59:30 PM »
I'm just going to toss in my $.02 and keep walking by.

Bolts placed to aid with rescue operations and protect rescuers on a heavily used often problematic trail should not be thought about in the same light as bolts placed for recreational climbing.

Oh wait, is that Sport Rescue or Trad Rescue?

Where the hell is Strand to help straighten this all out?
42
Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan, Politics) / Re: Strandman?
« Last post by perswig on September 20, 2016, 07:37:25 PM »
Last post on ST (under his avatar 'slabbo') from yesterday in the thread "Pumping Sandstone"

"I remeber some of the pumping Granite stuff quite well Morrocan Roll was the first boulder I did that had that "this would kinda suck to fall off" vibe.

 The sandstone stuff is only 45 minutes from me now,,some crazy memories seeing the original article as a noob many years ago. "

He's posting off/on there over the last few weeks, no mention of recent issues (but he's Strand, so...)
Dale
43
Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan, Politics) / Re: Strandman?
« Last post by Nick Grant on September 20, 2016, 07:24:13 PM »
Binge-drinking, probably.
44
General Climbing / Re: Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by JoeC on September 20, 2016, 07:22:29 PM »
Ome of those has been wiggling around for a lottle while.  I was going to replace some othet bolts there but seems i dont have the privilege to do so.
45
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by mattyb on September 20, 2016, 05:53:30 PM »
Hahaha! Ya your right, I have never been very humble with my opinions. That being said, in my opinion installing permanent hardware, on mount Washington, to help facilitate future rescues, for people who got in over their heads is kinda lame.

Just spoke with someone on the MRS. They were likely placed very recently when the hiker who had the heart attack was rescued. It is also my understanding from this person that the MRS quite often returns and chops bolts that were placed for rescues.

A call is in to Paul Cormier to get the facts but IMO bolts placed by the MRS for rescue purposes are exempt from normal standards and SHOULD NOT BE TOUCHED!

They've been there for a couple years, anyway. Mike pointed them out as we were descending the trail either last summer or year before.

Mike just corrected me.  They were placed by Paul and Frank.
46
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Gear Review: Petzl Sitta
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on September 20, 2016, 01:06:30 PM »
47
General Climbing / Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by DaveR on September 20, 2016, 12:50:16 PM »
The 3 two bolt anchors at the top of the slabs on the right hand end are no good! The other day a party was top roping and the bolts were moving in the holes as they were lowering. Apparently they have wiggled for a while and someone just added glue around the top to try and fix them.

These are glue-ins that were placed at the request of the state to prevent erosion and tree damage by people that have no clue how to bolt! The holes are not even drilled to the proper depth so the shaft of the bolt stick out about 1/2".

I hope to within the next few weeks pull those bolts and replace them with 1/2" glue-ins. Until I can fix them, BACK THEM UP!!!

Ward or Mark, do you guys have any deals going with suppliers on glue? It's been a while since I bought any. I used to get a discount at a place that is now out of business. Please send me a pm.

Thanks
Dave R.
48
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by DaveR on September 20, 2016, 12:30:51 PM »
Is it more litter than other "trail maintenance"? e.g. iron rungs, blazes, cairns, chopped steps and what not. Not providing an opinion is, just opening up the discussion.

That IMO is a discussion for another thread. This is a discussion of a specific anchor placed for a rescue and has nothing to do with trail maintenance or any thing else.
49
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by rbirk on September 20, 2016, 12:16:00 PM »
Is it more litter than other "trail maintenance"? e.g. iron rungs, blazes, cairns, chopped steps and what not. Not providing an opinion is, just opening up the discussion.
50
Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan, Politics) / Strandman?
« Last post by DaveR on September 20, 2016, 11:19:11 AM »
What the hell happened to him? Is he ok? he seems to have disappeared and I know he has alot of health issues.
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