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41
Epics and Accidents / Re: EDK variation Knot slip - climber dies (WA)
« Last post by Jeff on November 27, 2017, 08:58:43 AM »
An excellent treatise-- I have only one slight disagreement : the author suggests early in his discussion that the term EDK to designate the Offset Overhand Knot originated after an accident in the Tetons in 1998. This knot was used by French guides in Chamonix in training at ENSA for their IFMGA certifications in the early 1980s, and British climbing friends of mine, who commonly tied their rappel ropes together end to end with either a double fisherman's bend or a retraced figure eight, referred to it by the term EDK. As the American delegate on the UIAA Safety Committee at the time, I had several discussions at meetings at ENSA with French guide instructors and learned of testing they had done to support the efficacy and safety of using the Offset Overhand Knot to join ropes for rappels, whether of equal diameters or not. I've used it consistently ever since for this purpose.
      I am impressed by the clarity of this paper and the quality of the photographs to support the written word. It deserves greater dissemination. I hope that its presentation here will contribute to that effect.
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Epics and Accidents / Re: EDK variation Knot slip - climber dies (WA)
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on November 26, 2017, 07:29:55 PM »
This might be of interest...
Link: http://www.paci.com.au/knots.php

Its at #3 in the table.

...

Wow, that is by far the best research I've seen presented on this topic. Thank you for sharing.
43
Events & Announcements / Reel rock 12 showing
« Last post by IOMeara on November 26, 2017, 09:32:54 AM »
At Catamount Arts, in St Johnsbury, VT.

December 8 at 5.30 and 8.

http://www.catamountarts.org/shows/details/reel-rock-12

See you there!
44
Epics and Accidents / Interesting paper on offset knots (EDK)
« Last post by agent_smith on November 25, 2017, 02:39:52 AM »
This might be of interest...
Link: http://www.paci.com.au/knots.php

Its at #3 in the table.

...
45
Partner Exchange / Re: Ice Climbing 2017-18 - Full-time Partners (NH)?
« Last post by jzonfrillo on November 24, 2017, 08:06:14 AM »
Hi, I am also new to ice climbing, I took a class last season, looking to take another this month then some clinics at Icefest, looking for similar partner for some Top-rope and easier climbs and some Alpine climbing to build knowledge and confidence. I live in Southern NH and can climb most Mon/Tues and some weekends. PM if interested. 
46
Gear Exchange / FS: Scarpa Rebel Pro
« Last post by grubbers on November 20, 2017, 07:29:11 PM »
Scarpa Rebel Pro GTX, size 44. I think these boots have only 3 days on them. Great boots, but I need to downsize the boot collection. In the Boston area, but can also deliver them up to NH. $300
47
Black Dike 11/20/17

Survived yesterday's rain and warm temps quite well but gets thin after 2nd pitch pillar. I plugged up 3/6 ice screws in the fresh new ice after the rock traverse and with no rock gear decided running out 40 feet of thin ice wasn't for me so I v-threaded off and we bailed. If you head up tomorrow bring a little rock gear and maybe give the screws a fresh spray of WD-40, that ice was SUPER sticky today!

Pics/Video on my Instagram @northeast_alpine_start
48
Events & Announcements / DJ Mon Voyage Neon Back to Rock the House!
« Last post by MWV_IceFest on November 20, 2017, 06:43:25 AM »
Mon Voyage Neon is back! And he's bringing the funky beats and danceable grooves to the evening festivities of Ice Fest! Welcome back, Tim Keenan! Read more about Mon Voyage at http://www.mwv-icefest.com/blog/.
49
Epics and Accidents / Re: Missing hiker on Mt. Adams found dead
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on November 17, 2017, 09:18:55 PM »
A new book about this episode that is quite book. I will be reviewing it as soon as I finish it, in a few weeks.

https://www.amazon.com/Where-Youll-Find-Decisions-Matrosova/dp/0996218157

This book is quite book, I agree. And not only have I not even finished the book, I haven't even started. But don't let that stop me from breathlessly exclaiming stuff. Or whatever.

And then you got Lotman's review with his BUY THIS HERE WITH MY TOTALLY WHOREBAG LINKS review.

For shame.

Hope you guys can live with yourselves. Hope it''s worth it gents.

A smarter person wouldn't respond here. I've proven I'm not that smart soooooo....

1) If you purchase the book through the Amazon link I make $.80....

2) I'd prefer readers of my review support local businesses, hence the inclusion of:

Find this book locally at the White Mountain Cafe in Gorham, NH, White Birch Books in North Conway, NH, at SOLO in Conway, NH, and the White Mountain Wanderer in Lincoln, NH, and International Mountain Equipment in North Conway

Writing reviews take time and effort, much more than having to consider a response to your post.

Thanks in advance to those who appreciated a local review of the book. Also happy to lend my copy to anyone local who would like to check it out with out buying it.

50
Epics and Accidents / Re: Missing hiker on Mt. Adams found dead
« Last post by JBro on November 17, 2017, 08:56:18 PM »
A new book about this episode that is quite book. I will be reviewing it as soon as I finish it, in a few weeks.

https://www.amazon.com/Where-Youll-Find-Decisions-Matrosova/dp/0996218157

This book is quite book, I agree. And not only have I not even finished the book, I haven't even started. But don't let that stop me from breathlessly exclaiming stuff. Or whatever.

And then you got Lotman's review with his BUY THIS HERE WITH MY TOTALLY WHOREBAG LINKS review.

For shame.

Hope you guys can live with yourselves. Hope it''s worth it gents.

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