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 on: April 21, 2014, 11:13:21 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
OK.back to f/a is only  like that for one ascent..every other ascent  is easier because you know the route goes.....

 on: April 21, 2014, 11:04:20 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by SA
No John,

Cams and nuts work fine on that route. There was a party of 2 who started 1 pitch behind us. They looked strong and were perhaps in their mid-20's, a third our age. When we rapped off, doing 5 pitches which is where the good climbing ends, the leader was only starting the 2nd pitch, and was having some difficulty.

When I get down on myself for being out of shape etc., that kind of observation makes me not give up hope quite yet. I have to confess Donini led all the pitches, but then again, he was training for the NIAD. Funny, there were 2 girls waiting to get on the route, behind the 2 guys, and when we came down, they were gone. Probably got sick of waiting around.

Didn't mean to hijack this thread!

 on: April 21, 2014, 09:14:52 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
Did you flash on using pins ? i had that thought on the Nose "man , it would be nice to drive in a big pin here"

Cental pillar is a really good route..keeps you thinking and beats you up a bit

 on: April 21, 2014, 09:11:49 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by strandman
I'll GIVE you the grigri..fuckin' thing doesn't work for shit

 on: April 21, 2014, 09:08:04 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by SA

Flash pins?? Not sure what you mean.

 on: April 21, 2014, 09:06:27 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by strandman
200m of 10.4 would need freight delivery !

 on: April 21, 2014, 08:54:45 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by markvnh

Somewhere back earlier in this thread I'd written about Crazy Mountain. I don't know if you just had their beers or if you made it to their brewery and tasting room - which has a great local vibe to it. I hit it up almost every day after skiing at Copper Mt on my way back to Glenwood Springs when in CO.

Dillon Dam is a good brewery too. As is Glenwood Canyon Brewing Company.


 on: April 21, 2014, 08:41:46 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
How long had it been Steve ??? was the gear flash pins  ;D

The exact opposite happened to me on Watkins in Yos..I had never done the climb, but about halfway up, i felt everything click, like i had done it a dozen times. 8)


 on: April 21, 2014, 07:31:45 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by SA
Just thought I would add a comment on my trip to Yosemite a week ago. About 5 years ago, I did the Central Pillar of Frenzy, with a Brit. I met in Camp 4.
I did it again with Jim Donini, a little over a week ago. I was amazed how great a route it was, ( a 5 star route), and had little recollection of the route, even thou it was only 5 years ago that I had been on it. If you ever do it, be prepared for every technique in the book.

I kept telling Donini how great the route was all the way back to the car. A must do route, but be prepared for a line, as there were 2 groups behind us.

 on: April 21, 2014, 06:29:10 AM 
Started by joev9 - Last post by joev9
Yeah, pretty vague...

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