Recent Posts

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71
Conditions / Re: Bug Con- 1???
« Last post by Admin Al on May 18, 2015, 08:49:58 PM »
I had to work all morning, but I had dot take my car into the shop around 3. when I rode back there were no bugs any time I stopped. this evening I went out to the garden to put in some seeds and water and terse were 1 or 2 blackflies, but I didn't get bitten at all, I think it's all dependent on where you are and the breeze. Jeff L was out on Whitehorse and he said there was a light breeze and they were negligible.

go figure...

that said I will up it to a 2, just cause! ;-)
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Conditions / Re: Mount Washington: Huntington, Tuckerman, Kings Ravine, etc.
« Last post by Admin Al on May 18, 2015, 08:46:41 PM »
Anybody know what king's looks like? going up Saturday. Wondering What kind of snow and ice conditions are left.

there have been people skiing the east snow fields as of today. that said I would imagine anything in the way of ice up there would likely crapola. .
73
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Life of glue ins?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on May 18, 2015, 08:18:44 PM »
I totally agree.  the bolt i just replaced was 15yrs old, rusty and completly bomber.  isuspect it would have been bomber for annother 10 years. I know i cleaned the hole well and countersunk the replacement etc but I am still putting complete trust in the glue process......
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Dean Potter crosses the void.
« Last post by steve weitzler on May 18, 2015, 07:05:12 PM »
Sorry to hear this.
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Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Life of glue ins?
« Last post by strandman on May 18, 2015, 06:43:39 PM »
when the Big Dig shit happened, i remember saying to my wife " they didn't clean out the hole enough"  ::)

A lot of bolts are way better than they look,,, surface rust means nothing to me....it's way more important to know that the person who placed the bolt knew what they were doing.

a 1/2 " glue . placed wrong is still a shit bolt
76
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Life of glue ins?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on May 18, 2015, 06:28:17 PM »
obviously it did not work so well in  the Big Dig Tunnel...  So my guess is that a plated 3/8ths shit bolt in the average placement in the north east is bomber for 15 to 25years????   all bets are off if it is in a seep that is wet a lot.  SS 3/8ths I have no idea but my only concern in my lifetime is if someone over tourqes it or it gets shock loaded a bazillion times and gets some type of stress fracture.
 Glue ins, the weak link is obviously the glue. I have used Sika and Powers  AC 100 + Gold both smell and feel exactly the same. The Sika looks better when dry, better texture. The Powers has a better cartridge system for a more accurate  mix INMOP.

 Specualtion is just that.. What happens when the glue breaks down? how can you tell? is it 20years, 30,50,100???
77
Rock Climbing: Sport / Jumbo love
« Last post by strandman on May 18, 2015, 05:57:22 PM »
Finally repeated by  ethan pringle  15b from 2008.....If you ever go to Mt Clark,, this route will make you pike with fear and awe
78
Epics and Accidents / Re: Dean Potter crosses the void.
« Last post by crazyt on May 18, 2015, 05:29:58 PM »
Cutting edge, inspirational, he took climbing to levels beyond my comprehension and his motives always seemed pure. (selfish as they may seem to some)
79
Epics and Accidents / Re: RIP Dean Potter
« Last post by crazyt on May 18, 2015, 05:25:02 PM »
Cutting edge, inspirational, he took climbing to levels beyond my comprehension and his motives always seemed pure. (selfish as they may seem to be)
 
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Dean Potter crosses the void.
« Last post by strandman on May 18, 2015, 05:17:33 PM »
He died doing what he loved.. the next one who says that gets their head cut off by me. 

If dean ever wanted to die, all he had to do was let go..a passion for life keeps you going in dangerous situations
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