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 71 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:42:01 PM 
Started by SPLewis - Last post by Admin Al
this climb is just right of UnderToe!

 72 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:41:04 PM 
Started by DaveR - Last post by Pete Jackson
Krakuer is a asshole

I am SO EFFING GLAD to hear another person say this (although I suspect you are not the first to say it, just the first I have heard say it.)

Now, back to on-topic stuff.

 73 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:32:57 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by Pete Jackson
Gri is Great for solo and working new routs. I personaly give a better lead belay with an ATC. I know you can feed a Gri fast enough but i suck at it and will give you a better feed and catch with the ATC if it is at your limit.
I agree.  I have both the new and the older one.  The older one is now a brake for my slackline rig.  I dont like how the new one feeds ( I have a 10.2)  It does feed ok on a thinner rope.  And I suck at paying out rope while belaying with it.  Much better at an ATC.  I have found with my ATC Quide is that sometimes in the gym it will short rope a climber if hes working a route.

I agree. This was really really hard for me to learn the right way. Paying out slack quickly is way harder on a small grigri. I must have short-roped JBeta 10 times on a grigri this year alone! After that experience, I re-learned how to hold it for fast feeding. I re-watched the Petzl vids and practiced. I practiced holding the device with a curled index finger under the lip on the right side of the device, and rolling my thumb on to the cam for fast feeding, immediately removing it once the slack is out.

It paid off. I still have occasions when it "jams" or "cams" unexpectedly, but for the most part, smooth sailing.

It's still really unforgiving when your rope snags on a tree root on the ground while feeding though. That shit can ruin a clip in an instant.

 74 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:28:47 PM 
Started by DaveR - Last post by DaveR
Krakuer is a asshole

LL you again look to who ever it is you look to...Messner called it summit fever  and later mountain fever..that's good enough for me

Krakuer is an ass and Messner was the man! He set the standard for clean high altitude climbing.

Unfortunately these Sherpas died just trying to earn enough to feed their family's. What's so bad about that is that they were fixing ropes for a bunch of rich "trophy hunters" who as Messner put it, "many are not qualified to climb the Matterhorn on their own." IMO that is an ugly part of Himalayan climbing today.

"Everest 2000 Apex of All Vanities" Climbing no. 188 An awesome article by Messner.

3 locals who set high standards, Bouchard and Richie doing crazy ass shit like Shivling! Webster on the Kangshung face is another. Messner told those guys they were insane before they left. All 3 of them have slide shows with some wild pics!

 75 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:25:44 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by Pete Jackson
Not for nothing Pete- find a different partner. Belaying IS serious business.

It was the first and last time she gave me a catch. I was nervous about her giving me a ride in the first place, but my bro-in-law didn't pick up on my hint. "Ehhh, you look pretty light. You know I weigh twice what you do, right? Maybe Dave should belay me...." Then Dave says, "Don't sweat it! We'll anchor her!"

I took Dave aside later and set him straight.

 76 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:15:30 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by JoeC
Gri is Great for solo and working new routs. I personaly give a better lead belay with an ATC. I know you can feed a Gri fast enough but i suck at it and will give you a better feed and catch with the ATC if it is at your limit.
I agree.  I have both the new and the older one.  The older one is now a brake for my slackline rig.  I dont like how the new one feeds ( I have a 10.2)  It does feed ok on a thinner rope.  And I suck at paying out rope while belaying with it.  Much better at an ATC.  I have found with my ATC Quide is that sometimes in the gym it will short rope a climber if hes working a route. 

 77 
 on: April 22, 2014, 09:13:28 PM 
Started by NewRiverTrad - Last post by JoeC
I may be up around that time.  Planning on being up on the 30th.  I do have a partner, but who knows.

 78 
 on: April 22, 2014, 08:42:34 PM 
Started by SPLewis - Last post by DMan
Saw this yesterday!!!nice work

It took you 13 years to see this route? Are you sure you are on the right thread?

 79 
 on: April 22, 2014, 08:39:47 PM 
Started by Pete Jackson - Last post by kenreville
Honestly, although I've forgotten where specific holds are, I've never forgotten any route that I've led. Or even second'd. Although I can believe it could happen.

 80 
 on: April 22, 2014, 08:36:36 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by tradmanclimbz
Gri is Great for solo and working new routs. I personaly give a better lead belay with an ATC. I know you can feed a Gri fast enough but i suck at it and will give you a better feed and catch with the ATC if it is at your limit.

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