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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Ice tool selection
« Last post by Admin Al on November 02, 2017, 05:03:56 PM »
I've been climbing on a pair of original Petal Ergo's for 15 years, since they came out. I've tried other tools, but these just fit my hands and they swing like I feel an ice tool should. I have had carbon fibre Cobras and I also own a pair of X-Dreams. the former are possibly the best all around mountaineering tool I've ever used. the latter are close to the Ergo's, but are harder on my wrists. it's all a matter of personal taste. I don't see how you could spend that kind of $$ without actually using them on a climb. Ice Fest is perfect for that.

the only downside of ethics's Ergo's is that I'm down to the last 2 sets of new picks! once those go I'm in trouble...   :P  :-[
General Climbing / Re: RIP Fred Beckey
« Last post by Admin Al on November 02, 2017, 04:55:02 PM »
Just met him briefly at a slideshow book signing at IME a couple of years ago. Really seemed like he was truly living the dream.
Events & Announcements / Re: 2018 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest!
« Last post by MWV_IceFest on November 02, 2017, 10:50:57 AM »
Good soggy morning Ice Festers! Today we are psyched and honored to announce the return of both Patagonia and local Mount Washington Valley crusher/guide/writer/presenter/conservationist/mom/hero, Majka Burhardt! Read more at
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Ice tool selection
« Last post by pappy on November 01, 2017, 02:12:21 PM »
It's whatever you are comfortable with, because the dirty little secret is that pure ice is not that hard physically, it's almost all mental. I'm still climbing with my 20 year old Prophets because I am totally at ease with them and have led most of the stuff at the Lake and most other classic 5-5+s in the Northeast with them after the age of 50. I never get pumped. Might the new tools offer some incremental improvement? Probably, but no where near as important as the fact that I've got these dialed, the swing, the sound, the feel of a good stick. No reason to screw with it. If you're comfortable with your reactors I would suggest that you are more likely to step up your game with them, because the tools are not the difference.
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Ice tool selection
« Last post by Mike_R on November 01, 2017, 12:27:17 PM »
Raptors have been my go-to tools for 3 years now. They excel on any mixed that I could ever possibly hope to climb (M8+) and are a far better tool than the Nomics IME for thin ice, which I spend more time on than difficult mixed. The only difference I've noticed is that the Raptor shafts have noticeable flex in them. It's never affected their effectiveness and may in fact help them penetrate the ice (comparing again to the Nomic which I find to be an overly rigid, "dead feeling" tool upon impact).  If Trango had a presence at the majot ice fests I believe we'd see a lot more people buying Raptors.
Lost & Found / College Rock, Hopkinton, MA - Lost earring
« Last post by kerspin on November 01, 2017, 10:32:29 AM »
Hi, I was climbing at College Rock in Hopkinton, MA on Saturday and while on the wall between the Nerds and Jocks routes, the rope snagged my ear and sent my earring flying.  This wouldn’t be a big deal, except this earring belonged to my mother, who passed away a few years ago, and I am devastated to lose it.  We did not see what direction it flew, and we searched the leaves for hours to no avail.  Someone suggested that I post here in the event that it surfaces and someone finds it.  Attached is a photo.  It is a gold stud with a bright blue stone.   It is not worth much monetarily, but has huge meaning otherwise.
Partner Exchange / Ice Climbing 2017-18 - Full-time Partners (NH)?
« Last post by TheVanguard on November 01, 2017, 09:56:13 AM »
Long time lurker, first time poster.

So, I took an ice climbing class in February, and have been looking forward to the first full season since! I've been poring over material on mountaineering and ice climbing in the interim, and am ready to really get after it, full-time this winter. Anyone from NH, or thereabouts, looking for a dedicated partner this season? Looking to network, ask questions, and get things lined up for day one.
General Climbing / Re: RIP Fred Beckey
« Last post by eyebolter on October 31, 2017, 09:04:13 AM »
I met him in Yosemite in 1978, he comes hiking up to the cliff with a beautiful younger woman (like all the stories about him said), throws down his rope in front of us, and blasts up the first pitch of After Six in about 30 seconds. By the time I got to the first belay they were already on top of the route.

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