NEClimbs.com forum

David,

if the road is open, get at it, very easy with a bike to get in, At the last big clearing ditch the bikes and walk the old forest road up to the cliff, pass the campsite and camp under a large boulder at the base of the cliff, the trail is pretty well worn at this point and shouldnt be too much of a bitch to follow. The boulder bivi lets you be right near the cliff and one side is totally overhanging so you dont need a tent.

I have done putting in time twice, once with garlough and we got eaten alive by black flies, the other was in the fall and it was perfect. The bolts are in good conditon, the crux pitch is amazing sustained 11 thin face climbing.

I would be ready for black flies this time of year......

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107410270

Back in the ice age we lead everything with nuts... but mostly stoppers. I think our typical rack only ever had 3 or 4 hex's on it...mid range. $50 for a full set is a good price, but you won't use most of them.

 

Although I don't boulder any more (too much titanium in my hips to want to jump off things), I remember good bouldering at Jockey Cap just over the Maine border--also REALLY short flat approach from the car!

Good one Lynchie  !!

I thought you would quote the "young, tired and sweaty" bit  But big hands as well ??

Got it all baby!   

So good to be out rock climbing again!  I missed this type of banter.  There are waaay too many uptight and serious folks in the world.  Great weekend.  Good to have some gut wrenching laughs and spend time with folks on the same path of adventure and good times.  Laugh people.  Life is good.

Haven't been climbing at Cathedral for a couple of years.  Back at it now.  Looked up at the Thin Air face on Saturday and was very pleasantly surprised to see that the Missing Link/Secret Chimp face has been thoroughly scrubbed.  Big kudos to whoever did the job.  It had to have been a massive effort.  It was a jungle up there!!!!  Also thought I saw the glint of something shiny in the area the horizontal crack where you anchor for the second pitch.  Is it now a hardware anchor?

there is good bouldering at Humphrey's with a 2 minute approach!

The other whitehorse boulders.  Up by the Old Cabin is pretty good.  Cathedral Boulders, I know theres some other stuff.

Maybe. Maybe a # 4,5&6  maybe... I would by more wires myself... in NE you can never have to many wires  esp mid size

Almost forgot.. i'm old.. the first 2 protection bolts are 5/16" buttons and maybe one atop P1 all else are nut heads

have fun.. a top 5 f/a for me.. maybe a top3