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 71 
 on: October 16, 2014, 12:42:53 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
I do believe that a standard method is frequently the way to go..tying in, belaying etc..there is a way to do it and a way to not do it.

I just read part of an interview with Yugi ,, the great japanese climber..."it's all just climbing, sport, trad, wall, bouldering"  You an get better by learning all of these methods !!!!!

 72 
 on: October 16, 2014, 12:02:29 PM 
Started by David_G48 - Last post by David_G48
There is a 5.10 something variation to the 2nd pitch awaiting the FA by Old School. There is a nice anchor already in place just above the variation. If you fall it would be a "Cool Whip".

 73 
 on: October 16, 2014, 11:52:22 AM 
Started by David_G48 - Last post by old_school
Strandman being on the youthful side you are probably not familiar with 2 other methods; Agent Orange and convincing Old School to pull it out by the roots because while hanging from a rope it blocks the allergic reaction.

I will have Jeff help me pull the stuff out by the roots...is the bridge in good shape??

 74 
 on: October 16, 2014, 11:47:35 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by David_G48
Reflex may also not be the best choice of words. When the pupil of an eye contracts with strong light this is considered a reflex and it is not learned. I believe that "habit" would be a more appropriate word as long as we are being picky. A lot of individuals that speak English as a primary language would confuse habit formed reactions with instinctive. Maybe we all are just being too picky including myself. ;D

 75 
 on: October 16, 2014, 11:19:08 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by ed_esmond
Instinct is learned subconsciously...

i couldn't understand enough of the rest of Lucky's post to know if i agree or disagree with it, but i do understand enough to know that the above statement is wrong.

"Instinct" isn't learned...  it's "inborn" and "innate."

"instinct" is inherent in an organism at birth. here are some simple examples of "instinct:"

-a baby does not need to be taught (either consciously or subconsciously) to suckle at it's mother nipple.

-a dung beetle does not need to be taught to do the dung beetle mating dance.
   
-a robin do not need to be taught how to build its nest.

it's difficult to know but i think Lucky is babbling about training in a way that causes certain actions become a "reflex."

a "reflex" is not the same as an "instinct."

ed e

ps  Lucky, I know i'm being picky. but, if you going to lecture, please have enough respect  for the rest of us to know what your talking about.  you've prattered on about Maslow in the past, so i know you've heard all of this sometime.
   



 76 
 on: October 15, 2014, 11:36:04 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
David, well done on the interpretation.  I think all of us can agree everything makes sense there.

Luke/Champ, if you stop talking down to 90+% of the visitors here about safety, trad "ethics", blah, blah, blah, you will get a lot more meaningful discussions.  Your definition of who is a real trad climber is so narrow that you lose credibility in the eyes of non fanatical persons.  That is largely why people rarely engage you in meaningful debate, whether or not your thread has been hijacked is not really the point.
Sorry about your second misadventure at Yosemite.  Got to watch out for those deceptive posers at Camp 4 :)

 77 
 on: October 15, 2014, 11:19:47 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Echo

It is not correct and safe practice that people teach as the "standard method".


What is this "standard method" you speak of?

 78 
 on: October 15, 2014, 09:51:36 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
I believe that what lucky Luke wants to say is that trad climbing begins with learning correct and safe practices that need to be rehearsed many times until they become habit. That way we intuitively will do the right things when we become pumped, scared or in general a little bit extended in our climbing abilities. We are not sure if we can always rely on our concious problem solving skills when there is a heightened level of perceived danger. Over time we will get better at maintaining a calm rational perspective but, there will be times when we need to resort to good habits that are carried out unconsciously. This set of habits or unconcious skills can sometimes make the difference in keeping safe or incuring injury.

I think it is good

correct and safe practices to see the danger and to be able to avoid it later.

It is not correct and safe practice that people teach as the "standard method".

A correct and safe practices are one that will bring you home happy and tired what ever happen...and the practices could be non conventional.

 79 
 on: October 15, 2014, 07:58:01 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by David_G48
I believe that what lucky Luke wants to say is that trad climbing begins with learning correct and safe practices that need to be rehearsed many times until they become habit. That way we intuitively will do the right things when we become pumped, scared or in general a little bit extended in our climbing abilities. We are not sure if we can always rely on our concious problem solving skills when there is a heightened level of perceived danger. Over time we will get better at maintaining a calm rational perspective but, there will be times when we need to resort to good habits that are carried out unconsciously. This set of habits or unconcious skills can sometimes make the difference in keeping safe or incuring injury.

Luke does this sum up what you were saying? If not feel free to clarify.

 80 
 on: October 15, 2014, 07:06:26 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by steve weitzler
Enough with this light hiking shit. What I really want to know John is there sex after knee replacement?  ;) ;)

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