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 71 
 on: April 14, 2014, 09:25:03 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
I like most people here do not need you explaining the grading system. Many here have been climbing longer than you have  been on the planet and know more climbing history than you ever will! Ratings are very subjective and if you have climbed in many different areas you would realize that.

We are in a beginer forum and we discuss about the objectivity of the rating. The method used by Leight Orternberger exist(http://www.supertopo.com/...php?topic_id=1039859). It most ber very similar as they used comparaison method. There is also some other method used in France for the skill of the climber. With competition, they study the sport very deeply. I think that it is great that some people keep the NCCS system as it make the sport more accessible for many of us.

That doesn"t means that  people most know that, but at least that the theory exist. And it is normal, to be able to discuss that in a climbing forum.

Some people, like Brochu, are very agressive, it is pratically intimidation.


 72 
 on: April 14, 2014, 04:03:17 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
LL- i have been climbing a long fucking time and have no idea what you are talking about. How are beginners supposed too ?

Maybe you should climb more and chill the fuck out !

 73 
 on: April 14, 2014, 03:24:46 PM 
Started by Hellmans - Last post by Admin Al
I'm sure Pinnacle is good. the other two may be snocone-ish by now!

 74 
 on: April 14, 2014, 01:54:38 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by DaveR
Ratings for grade and time are all so subjective that they are to a degree BS.

First, one can ask how the guy did the rating systems in 1963. There is a lot of misunderstanding because people don't take the time to read and explain what the other did, before being able to decide what is good or what is bad. Ordinarly, people try to keep there idea even if they don't know the other theory.

For your knowledge only, we can describe the rating objectively. If you take one hundred climber and bring them to new cliff to climb route that they never heard about it, you are going to be able to do statistic. It is what people call a common agreement I think. But it is measurable. In fact, each person as there limit. One climber do all 5.6, 70% of the 5.7, 50 % of the 5.8, 30% of the 5.9 and 0 5.10. it is a normal curve. With those data, you can say the level of the climber as he climbed 50% of the route easily and he didn't know for the other 50% if he is good enougth. If you take all the climber who climb 50 % of the 5.8 route, you can analyse the difficulty of the route that they climb and describe objectively the limits of those climber, as most of the time, climber fall at the same place. It look complicate, but there is many complicated things that we can oversimplify for convenience. For example, the rope. all the theory about the rope is very sophisticates, but we can resume it with the fall factor for all climber.

Statistically, one person could compare his performance with the one of the population by climbing on sight a route of the same grade in an other area, without asking all the beta to avoid any problem and climb one or two grade over his limits. 
   

I like most people here do not need you explaining the grading system. Many here have been climbing longer than you have  been on the planet and know more climbing history than you ever will! Ratings are very subjective and if you have climbed in many different areas you would realize that.

 75 
 on: April 14, 2014, 12:54:36 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by JBrochu
.

 76 
 on: April 14, 2014, 12:39:44 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Ratings for grade and time are all so subjective that they are to a degree BS.

First, one can ask how the guy did the rating systems in 1963. There is a lot of misunderstanding because people don't take the time to read and explain what the other did, before being able to decide what is good or what is bad. Ordinarly, people try to keep there idea even if they don't know the other theory.

For your knowledge only, we can describe the rating objectively. If you take one hundred climber and bring them to new cliff to climb route that they never heard about it, you are going to be able to do statistic. It is what people call a common agreement I think. But it is measurable. In fact, each person as there limit. One climber do all 5.6, 70% of the 5.7, 50 % of the 5.8, 30% of the 5.9 and 0 5.10. it is a normal curve. With those data, you can say the level of the climber as he climbed 50% of the route easily and he didn't know for the other 50% if he is good enougth. If you take all the climber who climb 50 % of the 5.8 route, you can analyse the difficulty of the route that they climb and describe objectively the limits of those climber, as most of the time, climber fall at the same place. It look complicate, but there is many complicated things that we can oversimplify for convenience. For example, the rope. all the theory about the rope is very sophisticates, but we can resume it with the fall factor for all climber.

Statistically, one person could compare his performance with the one of the population by climbing on sight a route of the same grade in an other area, without asking all the beta to avoid any problem and climb one or two grade over his limits. 
   

 

 77 
 on: April 14, 2014, 11:50:27 AM 
Started by BeEsperanza - Last post by BeEsperanza
Hi All,
I've got four weeks off and would like to combine a climbing road trip with a visit to see my family in central Mass. While I grew up in the NE, I haven't lived there in many, many years so I don't really remember what Springs are like. I live in NC and have to be back on the 12th of May. How will the crags be in NH in late April/Early May? I don't remember black flys as a kid. What will they be like in Southern New England, the Gunks, or NH during that time frame. Is Farley a worthy crag where I can find a few days of quality 5.11 trad or sport lines? Does anybody want to belay me on Jane at Crow Hill? I boulder up there when I go home, and I think it's a great looking line. While I'm completely willing to sport climb or boulder, trad crack climb are the light of my life. Finally, how easy is it to find partners?

I'll be in the new for a week or two, so I will get my main fix there, but I would hate to drive the rest of the way to Mass and be stuck with a rack, rope, and car and nobody to give me a catch. Thanks in advance for any beta

 78 
 on: April 14, 2014, 11:38:36 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by xcrag_corex
Hope the Romans at least held on to the X position....

 79 
 on: April 14, 2014, 11:11:24 AM 
Started by darthgator - Last post by pahenry
How is Whitehorse doing, has all the upper Ice come down yet? 8)

 80 
 on: April 14, 2014, 09:26:01 AM 
Started by Hellmans - Last post by Hellmans
I heard that a team had climbed Odell, Pinnacle and central over the weekend (Apr12-13)...

Seems like we'll be giving a last shot to pinnacle this friday !!!!

Never give up the hope before June ! ;D

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