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71
General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on March 23, 2015, 09:28:12 PM »
Sorry I got a bit wound up.  I put a sling up high on a branch and I have no problem makeing that 1st clip but at the same time I mentaly file away that it is work not  done properly. I must have a touch of OCD because messy and poorly placed bolts  do bother me.
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by The other tomcat on March 23, 2015, 09:02:06 PM »
LOL  Nick, don't pretend to speak for me. Truth is I just clip the bolts and climb. If I was that scared, I'd just do the stick trick that I do on Intimidation. You go ahead and screw with it until it feels safe to you okay?
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on March 23, 2015, 08:54:28 PM »
being a carpenter you should be able to relate.  Sloppy work is sloppy work. the can't see it from my house BS does not fly for me.  I do enjoy being on those climbs but when I see belay/rap stations that have bad bolts loaded with tat I find it annoying as in work poorly done and poorly maintained. I see that just as quickly as I notice that the reveal on a window caseing is not even and the joints are seperating because they did not pocket screw them.
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on March 23, 2015, 08:44:42 PM »
Not that it matters much but you are bat shit crazy if you think a fall before the 1st bolt of P1 is going to end anywheres other than the ER or the cooler downstairs ::)   Does not mean that the bolt has to be moved, just that you look like an ass for claiming that it's safe enough ::)
 As for P3, that is a critical bolt and it's a shitty bolt. My Suggestion of replaceing it with an epoxy bolt has absolutly zero to do with chopability it has everything to do with doing the fcking job correctly.  Replace that bad bolt with the correct bolt for the application. It is subject to very high fall factor and messed up sidways forces.  Any time I have a bolt subject to  sidways or upward forces I use an epoxy bolt if possible as a mechanicle bolt often turns into a spinner in those kinds of placements.  If that bolt was replaced one for one with a modern bolt and you chopped it think about how that would make you look?

Obviously you feel that shitty sloppy bolts look quaint and add charecter. To me they mostly just look like shit. Especially rap and belay stations that are not rigged properly. There is absolutly nothing good about bolted stations rigged with nylon ::)
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by The other tomcat on March 23, 2015, 08:16:52 PM »
Fair enough Mark. I'm not personally a big fan of the "consensus" approach because, with all due respect, who exactly is your consensus comprised of? Or more simply, how many actual votes do you have? People always claim they have consensus support, and it turns out to be seven of their best buds, two of whom don't lead trad. Lowther of course isn't in it, is Webster? Barber? Chauvin? Winkler? The Dubes? Madara? Ross? Hartrich?

The route gets done a lot, and pretty much nobody epics on it.

Oh I'm sorry I missed the joke, and I stated how I feel about them.

I don't think respect for tradition or the FA party is a twisted vision. Once you open the door, it can never be closed.
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by M_Sprague on March 23, 2015, 08:12:29 PM »
Glue-ins was a joke Tom.  ::)
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by The other tomcat on March 23, 2015, 08:08:22 PM »
With all due respect Nick, I don't think the fall is much different than if you blew it starting Bombardment and winged onto the cam in the horizontal, and that's kind of the rub for me, are do-gooders going to fix everything down until it's bland pudding?

Admittedly the cam you'd pitch onto is smaller on Souls. If you're worried you can always stick clip it no?

Glue-ins to me Nick are pro bolt people saying let's see you chop this bitch. I have a cordless sawzall that works fine for that.

I place a cam in the corner with a long sling on P3, if the bolt broke it looks survivable to me.

Is there really one person here that considers Lost Souls a scary route? I don't think so. 

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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by M_Sprague on March 23, 2015, 08:03:16 PM »
There are no rotting pins, the ones that are there are fine.

Chopping those will make a real mess indeed Mark. If it scares you, just stay at Rumney, why do you feel compelled to fuck with a face you haven't been on in five years?

Tom, I certainly wouldn't if they are in fine shape. My intention was not to "fuck with the face" as you put it, but offer to replace any crappy old gear. In doing so, if the consensus is strong that it was put in a really dumb location and the surviving party of the FA team agrees, I think it is pretty dumb to put the new bolt right back in the same hole. It seems you are part of the problem in NC, where the replacing of some old potential time bombs becomes a PITA dealing with personalities stuck on some twisted vision of tradition and respect for the FAist. Isn't it more respectful of Mr. Lowther to care enough about the beautiful line he put up to take care of it, than make it a monument to badly placed crappy gear that is only going to get worse?
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General Climbing / Re: Top 5.10 multipitch routes in N.H.?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on March 23, 2015, 07:08:52 PM »
I  have led the 1st pitch of Lost Soles a bunch of times and think every time that the bolt was placed about as dumbly as possible.  There is a difference between bold and stupid. Bold you run it to the next stance and drill.  Stupid you skip the stance.  Apparently P 1 is not a deterant to folks climbing the route as they seem to simply traverse accross from Inferno so the gatekeeper theory does not work. If it was my FA I would move the 1st bolt down about 6" as I don't like  hack jobs. That being said it's not my FA so I am ok with the locations, not the condition of the fixed gear. I believe the one biner breaker bolt on P2 was moved years ago.  Most of the belays are total hack jobs and in poor condition. Many of the bolts look poorly placed/ not flush with the rock and of a style that I am not familiar with so no way of knowing how long they are.  Some of the hangers were bent the last time I was up there. The 1st bolt on P3 is close to the belay. Even a very short fall on this bolt creates a huge force with much of that force outward. I took a short fall on that bolt and it was one of the hardest falls I have ever taken. The bolt looks like crap. often looks don't tell the whole story with bolts. Good looking bolts can clean easy and bad looking ones ocasionaly are a real bitch to replace.  I have also had bad looking bolts clean super easy..   INMOP the 1st bolt on P3 should be a 10mmm epoxy.
 Anyone who wishes to argue that P1 is not R I would love to see you volenteer to fall before the 1st clip,  anywhere on the greasy traverse before the pin after the overlap on a hot muggy day and anywhere near the pin by the little round solution pocket ;D Its really quite fun when you find yourself out of sequence to clip that last pin ::)

Frik. as far as Duet goes it sounds like you are argueing simply for the sake of argueing? You have to climb a full pitch of Cannon 5.8 to get to the corner and it feels like the obvious 1st pitch of the climb.
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General Climbing / Re: Cover shot?
« Last post by strandman on March 23, 2015, 06:53:56 PM »
I remember watching WW fall down with Jimmie (who I believe did  the fa)   "it's fun to do once"

The cracks around there on the rock have been climbed..mostly
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