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 71 
 on: August 22, 2014, 07:26:49 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by JBrochu
A fence over 100 years ago ??


They put it up after the Fintstones drove up the old Dino path and sadly lost Fred when his Flinstone Flyer failed during testing. RIP




 72 
 on: August 22, 2014, 07:17:44 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by strandman
A fence over 100 years ago ??   

 73 
 on: August 22, 2014, 04:51:47 PM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by ed_esmond
i first experienced this back in 1999 or so.  we bolted a couple of routes on really hard quartzite (rock similar to the Gunks.)
 it sucked to get them about 1/2 way in and have them break.  they didn't seem to be very ductile as the snapped off pretty easily after they got stuck. 

they were sold as 3/8" not 10mm.  my climbing partner (a machinist) 'miked them and they were indeed 10mm.
 
i tried numerous times to contact the owner/importer of fixe at the time. (i think his name was "kevin something.")  he didn't bother to respond.  i didn't want an exchange or my money back, i just wanted to know if i could get a 10mm drill bit from him or from anywhere else.

another bolter told he used them in softer rock by purposely drilling a "sloppy" hole with a 3/8" bit. (i guessing they over drilled the depth and wiggled the bit around in the hole to make it oversized.  this didn't seem like a good idea and i don't think it would have worked in very hard rocks like quartzite or granite.

after that experience, my attitude toward fixe was f'-em.  it's great to know he still doing business his "old fashioned way…"


 74 
 on: August 22, 2014, 04:16:03 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Echo
You gotta get on em'!

No Pig's will give you an elvis leg but the fall is so clean (I've never taken it though)... amazing hidden holds right where you need them...

Buck Toothed has a blah short 1st pitch but the 2nd pitch is stellar... If you are doing the Arete it is only 20 feet away!

As for Skeletal Ribs I think I agree with a 5.6 rating as I usually set that one up in guide tennies...where is the crux on that? Just wide foot jamming right?

 75 
 on: August 22, 2014, 03:57:43 PM 
Started by SidleK - Last post by SidleK
Size 44.5...Used for 16 days on Denali (5 of which were spent waiting out a snow storm) and 1 day of ice climbing at Lake Willoughby...$325 shipped. Boots are in excellent condition.

 76 
 on: August 22, 2014, 03:18:57 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by markvnh
I find the 5.7 crack climbs at Echo on the stiff side too. However I think routes that aren't crack climbs are accurately graded. And The Arete is an awesome climb with a great crux sequence.

 77 
 on: August 22, 2014, 02:39:43 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by David_G48
No Pigs 5.8 w/spice
The Arete 5.8
Buck Toothed Chicken Splinter 5.8


Echo,
 +1 on The Arete
I have only been out there a couple of times and have not had the pleasure of climbing the other two 5.8 climbs that you have mentioned. As Al said some climbs are stiff for the grade while others are spot on as compared to the North Conway area, Skeletal Ribs (5.6) would be a 5.7 in any other area. Great place to spend the day.

 78 
 on: August 22, 2014, 01:12:46 PM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Echo
Ah, big difference from Eagle LOL. 3 of my favorite must-do's every time I visit Echo:

No Pigs 5.8 w/spice
The Arete 5.8
Buck Toothed Chicken Splinter 5.8

These are some of the nicest 90-100 foot 5.8's in New England... the roof moves on P2 of Buck Toothed are so much fun...

 79 
 on: August 22, 2014, 10:48:29 AM 
Started by Admin Al - Last post by Smear
I checked it with a micrometer against a 3/8 Thunderstud that I had and it is definitely 10 mm.The Fixe is just big enough not to work well (or at all) with a 3/8 hole.
I had gotten a couple from IME and let Alec know as soon as I found out so he could pull them.

 80 
 on: August 22, 2014, 09:38:18 AM 
Started by perswig - Last post by Rime
Ack! No, I did not call anyone a lead hog!! I am more than happy to follow these days.  I am excited to turn that around on ice this coming season if my aging faculties cooperate....I'm farther along mentally with ice climbing than rock climbing.  Hope to get out a few more times on rock this season and will lead some things each time, I hope.  Those so-called 7's at Echo would not be my choice.  Great day with you Al!!! As usual! 

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