Recent Posts

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71
Gear Exchange / Re: Free to a good home
« Last post by perswig on September 21, 2016, 07:31:28 AM »
Going out today, slacker.

Dale
72
General Climbing / Re: Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by DaveR on September 20, 2016, 10:31:45 PM »
Dave, I just got some from Toolup.com. I don't know which gun you have. I use the 8 oz cartridges http://www.toolup.com/ITW-Ramset-Red-Head-A7-8-epcon-Epcon-A7-8-Fl-Oz-Cartridge The 10 oz ones work in a regular caulking gun, but they don't work as well and are more expensive. Both sizes use the same nozzles. I'd go with Bolt Products SS glue-ins instead of the galvanized ones we used to use. Get in touch with Dave Quinn and he should be able to get them for you and they are only a little more than the galvanized ones. I like the heavier 8mm ones (Breaking Strain-76kN, 5/8" holes) rather than the 6mm (Breaking Strain-40kN, 1/2" holes) so they don't look so much like coat hanger wire even though the 6mm ones are very strong. They are like thicker Wave bolts but they are twisted where they go into the rock. If Dave is traveling and can't get them to you right away, I can spare 6 until he can get more. Give me a shout.

Thanks Mark, That is exactly what I have been using for glue. I have been using that for quite a long time and really like it. I just used the last 7 galvanized bolts I had on a local project. Someone who will go unnamed has offered to pay for the bolts and glue. Could you message me with a supplier contact for the bolts.
Dave
73
General Climbing / Re: Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by DaveR on September 20, 2016, 10:23:42 PM »
Ome of those has been wiggling around for a lottle while.  I was going to replace some othet bolts there but seems i dont have the privilege to do so.

Dealing with the state is a cluster and it is against the law to replace fixed gear there! When the big mess of chain above intertwine needed to be fixed it disappeared just like magic and 2 new 1/2" glue-ins just happened to show up the same day! Amazing! ;)  :angel:
74
General Climbing / Re: Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by M_Sprague on September 20, 2016, 10:05:40 PM »
Dave, I just got some from Toolup.com. I don't know which gun you have. I use the 8 oz cartridges http://www.toolup.com/ITW-Ramset-Red-Head-A7-8-epcon-Epcon-A7-8-Fl-Oz-Cartridge The 10 oz ones work in a regular caulking gun, but they don't work as well and are more expensive. Both sizes use the same nozzles. I'd go with Bolt Products SS glue-ins instead of the galvanized ones we used to use. Get in touch with Dave Quinn and he should be able to get them for you and they are only a little more than the galvanized ones. I like the heavier 8mm ones (Breaking Strain-76kN, 5/8" holes) rather than the 6mm (Breaking Strain-40kN, 1/2" holes) so they don't look so much like coat hanger wire even though the 6mm ones are very strong. They are like thicker Wave bolts but they are twisted where they go into the rock. If Dave is traveling and can't get them to you right away, I can spare 6 until he can get more. Give me a shout.
75
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on September 20, 2016, 08:59:30 PM »
I'm just going to toss in my $.02 and keep walking by.

Bolts placed to aid with rescue operations and protect rescuers on a heavily used often problematic trail should not be thought about in the same light as bolts placed for recreational climbing.

Oh wait, is that Sport Rescue or Trad Rescue?

Where the hell is Strand to help straighten this all out?
76
Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan, Politics) / Re: Strandman?
« Last post by perswig on September 20, 2016, 07:37:25 PM »
Last post on ST (under his avatar 'slabbo') from yesterday in the thread "Pumping Sandstone"

"I remeber some of the pumping Granite stuff quite well Morrocan Roll was the first boulder I did that had that "this would kinda suck to fall off" vibe.

 The sandstone stuff is only 45 minutes from me now,,some crazy memories seeing the original article as a noob many years ago. "

He's posting off/on there over the last few weeks, no mention of recent issues (but he's Strand, so...)
Dale
77
Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan, Politics) / Re: Strandman?
« Last post by Nick Grant on September 20, 2016, 07:24:13 PM »
Binge-drinking, probably.
78
General Climbing / Re: Bad anchors at Crow Hill, Mass
« Last post by JoeC on September 20, 2016, 07:22:29 PM »
Ome of those has been wiggling around for a lottle while.  I was going to replace some othet bolts there but seems i dont have the privilege to do so.
79
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Bolts in Huntington
« Last post by mattyb on September 20, 2016, 05:53:30 PM »
Hahaha! Ya your right, I have never been very humble with my opinions. That being said, in my opinion installing permanent hardware, on mount Washington, to help facilitate future rescues, for people who got in over their heads is kinda lame.

Just spoke with someone on the MRS. They were likely placed very recently when the hiker who had the heart attack was rescued. It is also my understanding from this person that the MRS quite often returns and chops bolts that were placed for rescues.

A call is in to Paul Cormier to get the facts but IMO bolts placed by the MRS for rescue purposes are exempt from normal standards and SHOULD NOT BE TOUCHED!

They've been there for a couple years, anyway. Mike pointed them out as we were descending the trail either last summer or year before.

Mike just corrected me.  They were placed by Paul and Frank.
80
Climbing Gear Q & A / Re: Gear Review: Petzl Sitta
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on September 20, 2016, 01:06:30 PM »
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