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71
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by kenreville on July 29, 2015, 09:01:49 PM »
Rules?  :P

Now that's funny. Rules? We don't need no stinkin rules!

72
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on July 29, 2015, 07:27:09 PM »
I'm with Ted on that one ;D
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General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by crazyt on July 29, 2015, 07:17:39 PM »
Rules?  :P
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General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by kenreville on July 29, 2015, 07:13:15 PM »
excellent story
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General Climbing / Re: Should you camouflage bolts?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on July 29, 2015, 07:11:01 PM »
I paint em with gray primer. never heard anything about it hurting the strength? Moslty started doing it when bolting things i am not 100% shure i will not  get  arerested for :o
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General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on July 29, 2015, 07:05:04 PM »
I tend to make the rules as I see fit 8)
 I once caught an over zellous tard climber  (I checked, it was not Lucky luke) stealing a KB off of Autum Feaver one of Isa's and my climbs. He was solo top ropeing. I waited untill he was near the top of the cliff and then soloed up Center Crack and  squatted next to him ( he was still roped in) to have a chat.  I asked him why he cleaned the pin. He answered that it was for ethical reasons as there is micro gear near the pin.  I asked him if he had led the route. he said that he had. I asked  did you climb through the roof..?  A. no, I traversed under it. I replied that is Turkey land 5.8+ PG13  The pins were for Autum Feaver 10+/11a 5.6X straight through the roof on  a nest of KB and micro gear that is the only thing keeping you from a bad groundfall that is in that nasty zone somewhere between steering a wheelchair with a straw and getting wheeled downstairs  into the refridgirator.  The crap gear nest is below the roof and once you turn the thing you still have 15ft of 5.6X to get a green alien.   He still felt adamant that the micro gear was sufficient even though he had only top roped it.  I informed him that  it was no biggie, I will just put a bolt there.  He then informed me that according to the book bolting was not permitted on that part of the cliff. I told him no worries  but I will put the bolt there anyways.  I neglected to inform him that I wrote the Deer Leap section of the guide. I never did get arround to placeing that bolt but someday I will. Had he left my pins alone it would have stayed a tard climb forever 8)
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General Climbing / Re: Should you camouflage bolts?
« Last post by kenreville on July 29, 2015, 07:01:16 PM »
Where am I on the ethic scale?  ???
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Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan) / Re: New AMC hut in Crawford Notch
« Last post by kenreville on July 29, 2015, 06:52:24 PM »
Having a strong presence at next week's Crawford Notch meeting is a good start.  Rally your family and friends.  And discuss talking points here.  We need an informed, mild-mannered unified voice.

Agree with this. ELM made some really great points early on in this thread about the environmental impacts. Id like to voice my opinion as well and that information is useful. If others have more to add, it seems like this could be a great place to address specific concerns.

For a cliff notes version of the scoping letter:

Comments are being sought to determine if this proposal meets the statutory purposes of the State Park System, by;
a. Identifying potential issues;
b. Identifying alternatives; and,
c. Identifying potential environmental effects of the proposed action and alternatives.

COMMENT PERIOD
A comment period of 30 days has been established beginning July 17, 2015 and ending August 15, 2015.

Witten comments and suggestions concerning the proposal can be sent to:
Jeffrey J. Rose, Commissioner
Department of Resources and Economic Development
172 Pembroke Road
Concord, NH 03301
Or Johanna.Lyons@dred.nh.gov

PUBLIC INFORMATION SESSION
Two public information sessions will be held for the public to review this proposal and ask questions of staff from the Division of Parks and Recreation and the Appalachian Mountain Club.

Wednesday July 29, 2015
4:00pm-7:00 pm
Department of Resources and Economic Development
172 Pembroke Rd
Concord, NH 03301

Thursday July 30, 2015
4:00pm-7:00pm
Crawford Notch State Park Wiley House
Route 302
Harts Location, NH 03301

BUMP TO TOP!!!!!!
LOCALS TOMORROW NIGHT AT THE WILLEY HOUSE!!! 4-7pm
79
General Climbing / Re: Should you camouflage bolts?
« Last post by kenreville on July 29, 2015, 06:42:11 PM »
I never understood why one would want to paint bolts/hangers to blend into the rock (except perhaps in areas where the hiking trails are more predominant). What climber is offended by being able to see where the bolt is without squinting?

Lets leave the trad/sport arguments out of this and just focus on the "to camo or not to camo" argument.

Stainless bolts, shiny hangers, period.

As far as near hiking trails? Life's a real bitch ain't it?  Get over it..... there's likely more beer cans and cigarette butts they can concentrate on (and do something about) then those nice shiny bolt lines of delight.

Hey Luke buddy- how em I doin?
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General Climbing / Re: Should you camouflage bolts?
« Last post by Pete Jackson on July 29, 2015, 06:11:48 PM »
Also: when you paint stainless steel bolts, the paint wears off pretty quick and ends up in the dirt below the route. I vote "no", in favor of using bolts and hangers that have a less polished finish. I find the finish on the first round of glue-ins used at Rumney to be the most aesthetic.
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