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81
General Climbing / Re: Great Climbing Films
« Last post by ridgerunner on February 28, 2015, 10:24:41 AM »
This one about the eiger is most excellent 's :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5d9avT0R-qk
Jim Ewing told me that a climber from NC acted Tony Kurz's part in that movie.
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Missing hiker on Mt. Adams found dead
« Last post by ed_esmond on February 28, 2015, 10:24:40 AM »
Hey Ed (whom I saw at Main Cliff on December 27th when I had the flu, got the whirlybirds, and nearly fainted dead away on Underdog), were you referring to six-time Stanley Cup champion Mark Messier, or all-time Mountain God Reinhold Messner?

or maybe i meant Lionel Messi, one of the greatest footballers ever…

originally, i did mean Messner, who had an almost supernatural ability to survive. 

ed "who can't even correct the "auto-correct" when it's wrong…" e
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: What is your favorite waterfall ice crampon?
« Last post by pappy on February 28, 2015, 10:14:59 AM »
Fangs. Don't even see how this is open to debate. Last time I climbed with him (but it has been a few years) Yandon still climbed in them, and that's gold standard. I'd still climb on mine, but sharpened the points so many times they just got too short, so now I've got some Petzl something or other, which work okay but only because they're strapped to my 30 year old Kastinger boots. (Which just lost their soles last weekend at the Lake. goddammit.) Absolutely pathetic for any kind of mixed or rock move, but going up vertical ice might as well be walking up stairs.
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: What is your favorite waterfall ice crampon?
« Last post by JBrochu on February 28, 2015, 08:57:39 AM »
Many years ago I purchased a pair of BD Sabretooth crampons for alpine stuff, and ended up also preferring them on water ice to my Grivel Rambos. They were all I used for a number of years until I stopped ice climbing.

Not sure how they compare to the modern stuff, but I thought they were amazingly versatile and worked great for snow, alpine ice, water ice, and easy mixed.

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Epics and Accidents / Re: Missing hiker on Mt. Adams found dead
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on February 28, 2015, 08:54:02 AM »
Just a thought…….I think there are a number of people who have had some success in the mountains as part of a guided trip or guided climb. It appears that this woman had a few successful experiences as part of such a trip. My point is that even though people have done a significant climb or two as a guided client it does not mean they have the "intellectual" experience to make safe and sound decisions regarding weather, potential avalanche slopes, etc. As a guided client all you have to do is put one foot in front of the other and leave all the decisions as to whether to turn back or when to continue up to the guide. Even then much success is a roll of the dice.

This is a very valid concern Steve.

I find that some of the best guides/mentors consider themselves teachers as well. Early in their trip they try to determine if the client is there for experiential/vacation type experience, or do their long-term plans include becoming self sufficient climbers. If the latter is true more instructing occurs. If it's the former it may just be a day of leading the client up the classic climbs without much instructing going on.

For those who wish to develop self sufficiency recommendations for a Wilderness First Aid course, avalanche course, self-rescue skills, etc. all come at the end of typical quality 3 Day Introduction to Mountaineering Course. Suggestions for reading, joining climbing clubs, finding partners on forums like here, all can be made.

As guides, instructors, and mentors we owe it to those who trust us to teach them to set them up for success after they leave a course.

One thing all climbers can do is change the way we talk about success on the mountain. How we frame our day starts in the morning. A typical introduction given around the raised relief map at Pinkham;

"For our Mount Washington attempt we will head up the Lion's Head Winter Route here. Our first goal is reaching tree-line here. If conditions permit we will make a push to the Lion's Head Summit here. This can be a challenging goal that may require full goggles/facemask. If we make it there we will try to cross the Alpine Gardens and get some shelter near the summit cone. Our next objective is Split Rock. Then the summit, which in essence is half-way. We still need to make it back down. Conditions look quite typical for Mount Washington, should be a fun day up there."

The tone is set for a trip where success is not based on reaching the summit, but meeting 1 or more goals and having a good experience.

On a related note a well intentioned but loaded question to ask a descending party is;

"Did you make it to the top?"

I would highly suggest;

"How high did you get?"
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Missing hiker on Mt. Adams found dead
« Last post by steve weitzler on February 28, 2015, 08:10:05 AM »
Just a thought…….I think there are a number of people who have had some success in the mountains as part of a guided trip or guided climb. It appears that this woman had a few successful experiences as part of such a trip. My point is that even though people have done a significant climb or two as a guided client it does not mean they have the "intellectual" experience to make safe and sound decisions regarding weather, potential avalanche slopes, etc. As a guided client all you have to do is put one foot in front of the other and leave all the decisions as to whether to turn back or when to continue up to the guide. Even then much success is a roll of the dice.
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Ice & Winter Climbing / What is your favorite waterfall ice crampon?
« Last post by old_school on February 27, 2015, 11:33:11 PM »
Just curious what the New England favorites are for pure waterfall ice. Not looking for best mixed. What has been your best performer over the years? I know there are a lot of M10 fans out there...but I focused more on what is currently in production and readily available
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Epics and Accidents / Re: Missing hiker on Mt. Adams found dead
« Last post by Nick Grant on February 27, 2015, 10:11:42 PM »
Hey Ed (whom I saw at Main Cliff on December 27th when I had the flu, got the whirlybirds, and nearly fainted dead away on Underdog), were you referring to six-time Stanley Cup champion Mark Messier, or all-time Mountain God Reinhold Messner?
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Partner Exchange / Looking for a partner 3/2-3/4
« Last post by Mike Grobicki on February 27, 2015, 09:43:55 PM »
Hoping to head up north in NH to climb early next week. Looking for a partner any day Monday through Wednesday. Don't lead just yet, but can follow up to 4+. I'm also always up for top roping harder routes. Don't have a rope with a decent dry treatment, but do have an almost full rack of screws (need a few 10s to round it out).
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...should work with the Israelis. They already built a pretty good crack machine.
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