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81
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by strandman on July 26, 2015, 02:26:57 PM »
If it's fixed, it's A1..until it comes out.

The slippery slope of free climbing aid routes with bashies and such..doesn't work for me..

We worked a bit on Seventh Sojourn with fixed bashies and other crap..some of it still remains, but bolts were added.

Don't start with fixed gear is fixed gear..it's not
82
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on July 26, 2015, 11:52:49 AM »
Dave. By that rational shitty gear is better than good gear which brings me back to my OP
83
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on July 26, 2015, 11:51:43 AM »
 A4 2ft left of a free pitch on direct direct.
84
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on July 26, 2015, 10:49:26 AM »
I don't aid climb much... There's about 10 of them in a row on the second pitch of Mordor Wall, after the bolt traverse.

I would say that's what makes that pitch A3 instead of A1 (if it was a bolt ladder).

Is this bashie on a free climb or an aid climb?
85
General Climbing / Re: Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by strandman on July 26, 2015, 10:10:05 AM »
"cause it looks more solid than some bolts ?

Maybe it will blow out and leave a nice finger pocket ?

"cause it's cheaper ?
86
General Climbing / Stupid climbing rulze
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on July 26, 2015, 09:56:55 AM »
  Lets face it our climbing rules are stupid and subject to change depending on who is violating them. Who you are often being of more importance than what do.  See the whole WOS debicle.

So will someone please explaine to me why this is more ethical than a bolt?
87
Climbing NOT (Bitch & moan) / Re: New AMC hut in Crawford Notch
« Last post by strandman on July 25, 2015, 04:21:57 PM »
Bitter, angry, middle aged men are the worst.

I dunno about bitter and angry, but "middle aged" is a bit generous, don't you think?


"Aged man" would be the best choice here.
[/quot

Except me of course  :D But thanks for the bitter/angry compliment

i hope people get run over on 302
88
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Slab
« Last post by strandman on July 25, 2015, 04:00:16 PM »
I'm sure nothing I do is as fast as you Mr. Alpinestart, I just like freaking people out with those dangerous old skool methods...lol...

YA-- and don't start  about 10.5mm ropes

Shit, you should see my belays some times
89
Trip Reports / Re: Camp Groups and Learn to Lead courses...
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on July 25, 2015, 02:23:44 PM »
Well Travis, you had a 50/50 chance to win a knife, and you won the coin toss. PM me your address either here or through FB and I'll get it into the mail.

A pretty similar week for me again: http://nealpinestart.com/2015/07/25/amc-teen-wild-adventure-camp-and-another-learn-to-lead-day/
90
Trip Reports / Re: Whitehorse
« Last post by Nick Grant on July 25, 2015, 01:53:10 PM »
No we wouldn't . . . because Travis was wearing a helmet.
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