« Last post by David_G48 on August 17, 2016, 01:01:09 PM »
This fun route starts 50' left of Sandinista and 25' right from Ol' Dirt Dog. Starts on a clean white streak in front of a standing dead tree, friction up to 2 horizontal cracks. Move right to the end of the cracks and up to a right leaning crack, at the end of where the crack stops going right proceed straight up to the large tree ledge.
(tricky gear placement to protect the move up to the large ledge, can be done with a red tri-cam and a stacked nut in a solution pocket)
Straight back on the large tree ledge and proceed up the clean rock to a 2 bolt anchor.
Standard single trad rack including tri-cams up to a #2(gold) Camalot
FA: George Hurley, Jim Nupp & David Giampietro August 2016
Alternate Approach: This is a very easy and enjoyable approach different from the book and that listed on Mountain Project. Use the North Shore Rd (Merrymeeting Rd) for Merrymeeting lake. Travel 1.1 miles from the intersection of Powder Mill and North Shore Rd (Merrymeeting Rd) to a very small pull out on the left where you can park. Follow the trail (well groomed perhaps old logging road) through the boulders follow trail until you can turn right onto a well marked trail with cairns. Walk approx. 25 minutes total (Almost to the top of Mt Molly) turn right and up off the trail with a short 100 yard bush whack to the base of the cliff (Central Wall Area).