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Climbing Gear Q & A / Petzl 2017 Sirocco Review
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on July 12, 2017, 08:32:53 PM »
Interested in the update to the Sirocco? I go into it in quite a bit of detail here:

https://northeastalpinestart.com/2017/07/12/gear-review-petzl-2017-sirocco-climbing-helmet/

TL:DR it is a nice improvement over a design I already liked.
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I made the 911 call. I was belaying.
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General Climbing / Re: PSA - Hugo's Horror Revisited
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on July 12, 2017, 03:14:43 PM »
I don't know why those bolts were placed at an angle. the rock looks just fine straight across from either bolt.

I'm no expert on placing fixed anchors but I will say I prefer either level bolts placed 10-12 inches apart or vertically like the last anchor on Rapid Transit... that anchor is quite unique isn't it?
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General Climbing / Re: PSA - Hugo's Horror Revisited
« Last post by Admin Al on July 12, 2017, 11:57:32 AM »
When I read your your report it was very ironic you mentioned the tat and your rope pic was of the un-equalized rap station!

Mark

I was talking about 2 different rap stations. the tat was on the one at the top. IMNSHO it's a mess and should be cleared. it would be great if there were ring hangers on it.

the picture was of the one below the top one and it's the one where we pulled the wrong end of the rope and the knot pulled THROUGH the ring! I have very skinny ropes and that's probably how that happened.

I don't know why those bolts were placed at an angle. the rock looks just fine straight across from either bolt. go figure.
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General Climbing / Re: PSA - Hugo's Horror Revisited
« Last post by Admin Al on July 12, 2017, 11:54:10 AM »
Dave, I believe that in Al's report he mentioned that they first pulled the wrong rope; therefore I believe that the knot started to pull through the ring (looks like one of those old style rolled aluminum rings which should be replaced when proper length chains are added), leaving the tails still through the ring. Probably a good thing as it might have been a bigger problem if the knot and tails had completely pulled through the ring before they pulled down on the purple rope.  ::)

yup, that is correct Jeff. this all happened because my bud said to pull on the wrong end! needless to say he had to prussic up to fix it! and yes, that old ring needs to be replaced. it doesn't belong there. if this had been chains, it never would have happened. [sigh]
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Rob -

I was up in Berlin with Brad when the call came in. was that you that called? so very sorry to hear about this. I hope your bud is going to be OK. it's absolutely nothing that I would want to see happen right in front of me.

all my best

Al
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The MRS was, indeed, amazing. We owe some beers for sure.

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Epics and Accidents / Re: Barber wall, nutcracker; thank you to MRS and conway fd
« Last post by Bill on July 11, 2017, 08:34:46 PM »
Hey Rob,

Best wishes for a very speedy and complete recovery to your partner.  Thank you for sharing such a concise and informative account of the incident.  I appreciate the opportunity that such reports provide for reflection of, and hopefully improvement in, my own climbing practices. 

Well done to the FD, and sincere appreciation to the MRS members and the other climbers who took time out of their day, jobs and climbing to assist a brother climber.

Bill
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Wow Rob! First thank you for sharing this first person account so soon after the accident. I believe the sooner details are written down the more accurate the account is. I'd definitely encourage you to send this one to ANAC as it will be a valuable read for many climbers now and in the future.

Shit happens climbing, that's for sure, but I find it invaluable to think about things we could do differently. I think you nailed it that back-cleaning the #2 contributed to the severity of the fall. Carrying a little bigger rack on an accessible route might be prudent to avoid a similar accident.

Nutcracker seems to be having a decent share of ground falls in recent memory... Maybe share this on Mountain Project route description posts to suggest those on-sighting take notice. I'd also suggest you add the #2 placement and subsequent back cleaning into the main recap of the incident instead of just a bullet point later.

I wish your partner a full and speedy recovery, as well as you. It's traumatic watching someone deck from that high, whether they are a stranger or friend.
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Beginners Area / Re: Tech Tip Tuesday
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on July 11, 2017, 11:23:33 AM »
Added "Flipping a Plaquette" today... and giving away a brand new DMM Pivot Belay Device!

https://northeastalpinestart.com/2017/07/11/tech-tip-flipping-a-plaquette-and-giveaway/
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