Great report Dave. Should that anchor be replaced with a bolt anchor when the trundling is done??
That's a good question. The remaining trees are too far from the edge to allow a single 60m descent. There's a shelf ledge directly below the Book anchor that is used to access Women in Love. That seems a natural place for a bolted anchor. Obvious questions in my mind:
1) Do we need a anchor here? IMO it was only used for descending Lower Refuse/Brown Fist with a single 60m. We can still descend that route in 2 raps using one of the higher trees (though I'm slightly concerned about them now) and by stopping at the mid-thread-anchor at the top of the of Brown Fist.
2) Would a station on that ledge leading to Women in Love significantly alter the character of the existing climbs?
I really can't answer either of these two questions. While I liked being able to get down from there with a single 60m it certainly wasn't a huge necessity.
I think the priority should be cleaning up what's left there. As I mentioned in my post other climbers reported hearing rockfall from that area around 8pm that night and from what I saw there is a lot teetering up there. Plenty of stuff that could reach the lower climbers trail with a small nudge.
After that issue has been addressed I'd defer to some of the folks who have been climbing here a lot longer than I regarding adding an anchor. I am way below the pay grade from Women in Love and that seems to be the route that might be most effected by a bolted anchor in this area. There is a spot very close to where the tree was that might accept a bolted anchor but I didn't inspect it close enough to be sure.