Recent Posts

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81
Partner Exchange / Re: No. Conway Sunday 9/17
« Last post by HTH on September 16, 2017, 06:38:11 PM »
I love those two routes; let's meet at 8:00 by the trail to the Ventilator wall.
Henry
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Partner Exchange / Re: No. Conway Sunday 9/17
« Last post by CPARKER on September 16, 2017, 04:22:23 PM »
If your still free. Climbing would be greAt. Fun House 5.7. Bombardment 5.8. Climbs in this range I can lead. Start climbing around 8-8:30.
83
General Climbing / Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
« Last post by Jeff on September 16, 2017, 02:38:43 PM »
A good friend and fellow guide wondered if the routes in question are also climbed as winter routes. He suggested that someone could have cut the cords to remove in the winter and then found them so frozen in place that he didn't remove them. While I find this far fetched (although I hope not as farfetched as deliberate sabotage!)and in the case of
the blue one seemingly " just lengthened" , impossible, I would hope that in such a case, the "cutter" would at least                                                                                                                                                                                cut again in the front to make the damage obvious!! In any case, the message to take away should be clear to all of us. Check the integrity of ALL components of ANY and ALL belay and rappel anchors before trusting your life and those of your party to them!! I'll never again just clip into a sling around a tree at the end of a pitch, without checking it first. "Forewarned is forearmed"  :'(
84
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Ice tool selection
« Last post by iclimb on September 15, 2017, 10:46:50 PM »
Thanks man - the problem would still be there with nomics or any other advanced tool - price is too high for me.
85
Partner Exchange / No. Conway Sunday 9/17
« Last post by HTH on September 15, 2017, 07:26:47 PM »
Looking for a trad partner for Sunday 9/17.  I have ropes and trad rack.  Climbing up to 5.9.  Single or multi-pitch; multiple routes okay too.   Meet at the crag; let me know what/where/when you'd like to climb.  I like to get an early start.. ;D
86
General Climbing / Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
« Last post by Ducayet on September 15, 2017, 02:19:09 PM »
It is pretty hard to determine if a cord was "cut", as in from a knife, or if a critter decided to give it a chew. I leave a lot of rope and electrical wires out in forests for work and a lot of it gets gnawed on, rarely do they chew all the way through something before they figure out it's not food.

Regardless of malicious intent, the take home message is the same: check out any fixed anchors, especially the soft stuff.

Thanks for sharing this.
87
Events & Announcements / 2018 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest!
« Last post by MWV_IceFest on September 15, 2017, 12:36:09 PM »

IT'S THE 25TH YEAR!
2018 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest
February 2nd-4th, 2018
North Conway, NH

Mark your calendar folks and sharpen those tools!  We're getting rolling, are you ready?!
88
Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Ice tool selection
« Last post by nuts on September 15, 2017, 01:26:08 AM »
The Raptors climb reasonably well, but there are differences that separate them from higher end tools.

Really, if you're looking for an improvement at your level, you need to climb on tools before you buy them.  The subtleties in a swing are where you'll see differences that improve your climbing.  Some tools might make a profound difference for you while they never leave someone else's gear closet.  My suggestion would be to return the ones you've ordered and demo them at Icefest, also a pair of Nomics, Fuels, and a Grivel tool.  DMM is also making a play at the market again.  Consider the cost, availability, and durability of picks. 

And again, you may compare all of these tools to your Reactors and decide that they're the best for you.  They're still a good, viable tool.

89
General Climbing / Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
« Last post by Admin Al on September 14, 2017, 09:50:22 PM »
I wrote the following in this week's Report, but wanted to break it out here separately.

I received a very disturbing email just before I went away on my vacation regarding anchors. according to the person who sent it, he has found some anchors that apparently have been deliberately made unsafe. I have no way to verify this information, but regardless it brings up something that we all should do on a regular basis, which is examine any and all fixed anchors BEFORE we clip in or rappel from them. While I have never personally seen any that were sabotaged, I have seen many that were basically worn out or damaged by animals. Simply assuming that an anchor is good, is a bad idea - most especially when the outcome of an anchor failing can be catastrophic.

FWIW I received the information in a .DOCX file, which I was unable to convert to something more useable than a JPG. Regardless, here it is. Make of it what you will...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/RapAnchorWarning.jpg
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Ice & Winter Climbing / Re: Ice tool selection
« Last post by iclimb on September 14, 2017, 04:27:02 PM »
I went with trango raptors 2nd gen. They're like nomics  but improved in some subtle ways according to reviews, and a brand new pair set me back for less than a pair of used nomics
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