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 81 
 on: April 12, 2014, 06:03:53 PM 
Started by old_school - Last post by SA
John,

Just got back from the Valley. Never heard a thing about it. Hung out with John Dill & Werner and they didn't mention it.

It is hard to keep up with Donini--he is amazing! Did perhaps 40 pitches of 5.9-5.10 crack climbing, and I'm trashed. Took an all nighter from LA, and have been up for 40 hours. Hung out with Mark Chapman- a great guy, and climbed some fun stuff.

Did the Central Pillar of Frenzy, on the final day--a really great route!

 82 
 on: April 11, 2014, 10:12:06 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by M_Sprague
Thanks, John. I'll try to get out there this spring and have a look, probably once the bugs are out. I am trying to actually get some climbing in before then. I can scrub and bolt in my bug suit. I think Tom Nonus gave me Callaghan's # last year. I'll see if I still have it. If not, your help reaching him would be great.

 83 
 on: April 11, 2014, 09:55:00 PM 
Started by tradmanclimbz - Last post by strandman
Come on out... bolted 3 new routes today and i was to spent to climb any of them  3-4 bolts and 40-50' each

 84 
 on: April 11, 2014, 09:33:14 PM 
Started by tradmanclimbz - Last post by tradmanclimbz
 holy smokes! I just put a  trad rack together for tomorrows attempt to find sunny dry rock. A full trad rack is feckin heavy! Not even talking wide..... Way heavier than my ice rack. only been on rock twice this year without poons and tools. both times solo. this trad climbing stuff sure feels like an anchor in the pack :P maybe since I am getting old and stuff I should just sport climb ;D

 85 
 on: April 11, 2014, 09:20:29 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
I analyze two rating systems used in north conway that you can found in Ed webster guide book and the recent guide book. I found that one is wrote for the elite and the other to the average climber. One is wrote if you are already good, and the other is wrote if you like to have a nice climbing day, like lake view at canon, or royal arches in yosemite.  Accessibility, it is all what the trad climber want...no bolt, no reserve area...just enjoy a full day of climbing. [...] The question is: which gradation system do you like to have as a climber?
You took me a little out of context there. I was pointing out that I can climb at a sport crag with elite climbers, in spite of the fact that I struggle to get off the ground on 5.11s that they'd warm up on. (True story)

If you point out that every body can climb at rumey and enjoy doing sport climbing, I agree with you. As I pointed out, it is always question of 5.xxxx when people do sport. You said that you climb with the elite, as I prefer to climb with a partner at my level or a good friend. But those are not relate to the rating systems. It is some distinction between too ethic.

As you climb at rumney, the NCCS rating is pratically always I, so , you don't talk about rating over, like rate three or four. Today, I admit that some people try to bring all the climb to a rate I. The nose in 2 hours 56 minutes is a good example of that. The rope of 70 meters...Working the route, etc.  I admit that for that kind of climb, the NCCS rating is not very usefull as they work the route previously and the adventure is not to climb the route for the first time, but to realize an exploit in climbing faster, without rope or to win a conmpetition.

For those people who like to climb 5.9 and prepare the information...

Oups... if I bring you in a 5.9 you won't know if you have to bring a pack with food and headlamp or just your shoes and harness.


 86 
 on: April 11, 2014, 08:23:24 PM 
Started by markvnh - Last post by tradmanclimbz
Pretty sure he said that a slab broke away?

 87 
 on: April 11, 2014, 06:59:02 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by strandman
I would guess Tom would be OK with it but I'm not positive..he worked really hard getting those pins in.. I'll get you in touch if you like.

Pumping is a good line,, way steep and has a nice crack at the end..hand & fisty  !! i think only one of the bolted lines has been re done.

Crack anchor was a horror show years ago..it kinda mossed over so you can't see it  Good, it was a hex and stopper.  brilliant climb

 88 
 on: April 11, 2014, 06:57:32 PM 
Started by markvnh - Last post by neiceclimber
Since when did popping a binding become an avalanche.

 89 
 on: April 11, 2014, 04:41:22 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by M_Sprague
Does the fixed anchor of Crack in the Woods still need replacement? I have been wanting to check this crag out for a long time and wouldn't mind replacing it and giving a bit of a scrub if needed. How is it getting around to the top where you could rap in? and how long a rope would you need to reach the ground single strand?

Also, what is the deal with the old pins on Pumping Station? I would imagine they would be rotted out by now. I suppose it would be blasphemous to even broach the subject of whether they should be replaced with stainless bolts 1 for 1 if modern clean gear doesn't protect it. I haven't even seen a picture of the route, so have no idea, nor do I know Tom's current thoughts. Some are fine with modernizing gear when replacing and it makes sense (like Jimmy Dunn), others take it as a personal affront. It sounds like a great route. It would be a shame people aren't getting on it because the fixed gear is rotting out and it needs a brush.

 90 
 on: April 11, 2014, 03:36:32 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by eyebolter

Al - I wandered around for 3 hours one time looking for Crack in the Woods... If I hadn't been there in the winter and seen it, I would not believe it exists... I have walked by Powderfinger a bunch - it looks hard! Steaksauce is right out of my league. I got on SYZ last year for the first time. That is an amazing climb!

Go when the leaves are off the trees and you will find it; I did first try.    Gets my vote for best handcrack in New England.  While we were there a bear came down around the end of the cliff through the woods.

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