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Nope that was YMC dike!

DD -> VMC is one of the safer routes on the cliff.

I rest my case.

STFU, pretty please with sugar on top.

I'm pretty sure this is the route I heard Tut describe as "not for married men."

 

What??? loose blocks on Cannon??? lol 
How you doing Trad? Been too long my man! 

Any idea what the loose block situation is at the cows mouth? I think someone reported last year that a large block shifted on them up there? wondering if anyone has been on it since?

http://www.neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.php?topic=3206.0

Pitch 1, 5.8  G corner (formally 5.6 ) 120':  This pitch was once 5.6 but a block fell out at the bottom of the crack, this new section is now 5.8.  Scramble up and left to the bottom of a left facing corner, traverse back right through hand crack (10 ft) and gain a right trending, left facing corner.  Climb corner to a pocket with a bolt(belay).

Here is the right description: Climb a right-slanting flake system and ramp to a belay. 100 feet.

I did that route and it is THE SAME ROUTE FINDING BEFORE AND AFTER the rock fall.

The description of the zigzag in the topo is this one:

Climb the first thirty feet of consolation prize (the right leaning ramp) then up a wide crack on the left to a ledge. (60 feet) ODESSSEY OF AN ARTICHOKE 5.10 (the 100 feet of the new variation is 60 feet more the traverse back right, odessey first pitch can be 5.8

On a climb like that, never follow other people advice. Always be ready to save your life by yourself by training different technique of safety at your crag (not hard bolt climbing). When you think that you know enought safety, try it in a chalenging route and come back again to your favorite crag to train your skill.

Never climb hard, as sport said. Your safety level most always be one or two grade over your climbing level (a 5,8 climber most know how to save his life in a 5.9 or 5.10 so he can bail).

Nothing worse than all those guy who climb hard and scare every one with bad route finding because they think that the are the best or because they think that, if no body climb, accident won't happen.

 

Which part of the world?

lol..here in the Valley. A buddy of mine saw some climbers in the ER last night. Just curious.I was not called out. Wondering if MRS was?

Which part of the world?

maybe- i can't believe they aren't stiff as hell though  ?

Maybe. Beal used to be pretty supple...not sure how this new UNICORE would affect the overall feel and handling of the rope, but you could be right John. I would like to see one in person...