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Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
 on: April 14, 2014, 08:34:48 AM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by ralbert20
Oh man! I am in TROUBLE then!  ;D

 on: April 14, 2014, 07:32:10 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by DaveR

Ratings for grade and time are all so subjective that they are to a degree BS.

Do the approach to L29 with a local and it is not bad at all. I got hosed the first time like Sneoh did. Which time should I put in the book because there was a 2 hour difference each way?

When Bouchard and Richie were training for Shivling we watched them simul-climb the Prow faster than most people could climb Thin Air. We talked with them afterwards and thier rack consisted of a few runners and 2 cams! Should we now give it a commitment rating of 1? :P

 on: April 13, 2014, 11:00:19 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
If anything, they're confusing. Half day commitment? For whom? Is that because of a long approach or a because it's a lot of pitches? Is it a half day for me but only if I don't miss a critical rappel anchor that requires a swing on rap #3? Only the route description and the experience of others can tell you this for sure. [...]

There is no "grade" -- subjective, objective, or blended -- that can properly prepare someone for a route without any other information. That's why I am so glad that guidebooks have words in them, and that veteran climbers are usually willing to share route beta! :)

With the half day commitment I can compare a route that I climb in east to a route that I climb in west. Of course, time is maybe the best, but can create some confusion. If you miss the rap#3 and it is in your ascent, like vertigo, it is because you had a problem with route finding. It can be because you miss it or because you are not train for that. it is the same as when you climb a 5,10. You can miss a hold and not be able to climb the move or you can not be at the level to climb the route. So, it is two kind of difficulty (route finding and the hardiest move.

As many don't know about the NCCS system, I most say that the approach and descent time was not in the rating. It is just the time to go from the bottom to the top. It is a confusion to use the approach as it is a confusion to discuss about route finding. If every body miss the rap #3, the route will take longer for every body. Other way, those you made a mistake will take longer.

 on: April 13, 2014, 08:48:44 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by Pete Jackson
Just to change the point for a second..Pete, yo were just at Smith ? i guess you didn't run into my friend jenny ?? You would have remembered.. ;)

She' s a 9..if you get my point about grading

Hah! No, i didn't meet anyone named Jenny. Climbed with my bro-in-law and a bunch of ladies from VT and Portland. I sorta felt like we we're ruining a "girls weekend". Had a great time though! That place is like a playground!

 on: April 13, 2014, 06:36:01 PM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by sneoh
I did not want to broach the subject of approach but it is a real factor.
Eric and I got killed on the approach to L29 because we did not get directions for the most efficient/fast approach.  I was half dead and had nasty scratches up and down my limbs by the time we got to the base.
Epic ensued.  'Nuff said.

 on: April 13, 2014, 05:52:51 PM 
Started by Climber57r - Last post by WanderlustMD
I was on the prow this morning for about 20 minutes before it opened up, it's fine in terms of ice, etc.

 on: April 13, 2014, 05:39:49 PM 
Started by Climber57r - Last post by Climber57r
Thanks Al. Catch you out there soon. Maybe pass you on the bike...or you will pass me..haha. Damn wind has been brutal lately.

 on: April 13, 2014, 04:00:09 PM 
Started by Climber57r - Last post by Admin Al
there's still some stuff hidden in the cracks & crevices. I'd probably wait another week... but the Prow looks just fine IMO. keep your eye on the webcam & it will come around.

 on: April 13, 2014, 03:11:36 PM 
Started by Climber57r - Last post by Climber57r
Luckily been able to get in a few climbing sessions this season and looking to tick off some aid lines on Cathedral early while things are still dripping. How is the snow and ice above Mordor, Mines or the Prow looking?  Thanks,

 on: April 13, 2014, 12:40:36 PM 
Started by old_school - Last post by strandman
Yo SA..i'm going to see my ankle guy next week..maybe we can get a 2-1 deal ..mine only looks fragged.

When ever i hear about routes like Kor-beck, i get a quezzy feeling about the wide.... :P

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