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91
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by pappy on November 21, 2014, 08:26:05 AM »
The idea of TRing a route and then leading it is sport climbing is rather odd. I was under the impression that most sport climbers worked their projects on the lead. At the same time, back in the late '90s I became enamored of 'Hard Grit' and put up a number of head points in TN, which needless to say involved TRing several times first. I didn't realize that head pointing was in fact sport climbing--what a bizarre idea.
92
Gear Exchange / Re: M10 Crampons
« Last post by Echo on November 21, 2014, 08:23:14 AM »
If Jeff doesn't buy em' I'll take em
93
Beginners Area / Re: Your first trad lead
« Last post by Echo on November 21, 2014, 08:22:37 AM »
It is a great first lead, but not harder than 5.6. Compare it to any 5.6 at the Gunks, esp. a classic like High Exposure, Disneyland, or Madame G's, and it quickly becomes a "one move 5.6"... vrs. over and over having to commit to the move
94
Partner Exchange / Re: Grafton Saturday?
« Last post by tradchick on November 21, 2014, 08:19:34 AM »
The Kingdom has a few inches at lower elevations.  I hiked up to 4500 ft. in Franconia earlier in the week and there's plenty of snow up high.  Have a great weekend!
95
Partner Exchange / Re: Grafton Saturday?
« Last post by perswig on November 21, 2014, 08:03:22 AM »
Danf, if I had access to a Jaws, I'd probably elect to wreck some shit, too!  Don't lose an eye.

Hey, Red, do you have snow up there in the Kingdom (other than up on Jay, I mean!)?

I may end up taking a trip to NC to drop off skis for mounting, but if not, I'll post up early season conditions in the Notch. 
Have a good weekend, all!
Dale
96
Conditions / Re: Huntington Ravine 11-20-14
« Last post by old_school on November 21, 2014, 07:25:33 AM »
I'm hitting that over break next week!! ;)
97
Gear Exchange / Re: M10 Crampons
« Last post by Jeff on November 21, 2014, 06:10:28 AM »
Sent a pm!
98
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by tradmanclimbz on November 21, 2014, 05:49:58 AM »
Luke you very clearly  called the deceased a sport climber in a condecending way implying that she fell because she had a sport climbing mentality.  Now you deny saying anything about the woman. this is just one of many reasons that you scare me.
99
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by sneoh on November 20, 2014, 10:26:31 PM »
I agree and I never say any thing about the accident of the women at the gunks.

...a proof that she is a sport climber.

Hook, sinker be damn.  Someone has to call you total BS and liar about not having said anything about that woman.  You posted the following on the other thread -
"Here, and respecting the idea of the friends and family to not talk about what she did or not did..., I just make a distinction between a climber who do a route bottom up (trad) and an other who follow a route, decide that he can climb it on lead and lead it (sport ethic).
So, it look like a sport climbing accident, not a trad accident."


It is quite a stretch for you to call her a sport climber since you know next to nothing about her.  YW is 5.11 PG/PG13.  I do not think it is unreasonable to take one TR run on it first to see if one has the skills to lead it.  If TR a route once damns one to being a "sport climber", you better have the guts to tell this to the face of many very good gritstone climbers.  I am sure they will give you the answers you deserve right there and then.

Geez, it amazes me that you even believe half the stuff you spew.  Or I just do not get "THE JOKE".

100
General Climbing / Re: WTF!?
« Last post by lucky luke on November 20, 2014, 09:36:18 PM »
LL,
I won't name the climber, but last Summer, one of the most experienced climbers on the East Coast; ---a person responsible for many 1st free ascents, took a leader Fall, barely escaping serious injury. I asked him what happened, and he just said, "my foot slipped".

There was no equipment failure, no belay error, etc. He just slipped, just like that poor girl in the Gunks. Sometimes your luck just runs out. PERIOD
I agree and I never say any thing about the accident of the women at the gunks.

I know that you climb most of your first ascent bottom up. I think that murder wall was an example of that trad mentality. Club of the hundred, as you took a hundred feet fall in the prow in yosemite, etc. 

And other ethic is that a climber do a route on top rope and if he his able to climb it without a fall, that means that he can climb it on lead.

The friends of the climber at the gunks said that she top rope the route last week end...a proof that she didn't climb bottom up!!! and he said that she want to lead it the next weekend...a proof that she is a sport climber.

gunks are still a trad place, even if we found bolt here and there.

n.b. I climb most of my route bottom up and I always think that my feet can sleep and what I can do to safe my life. After ten years, a climber have reflex that we call luke...in fact it is a knowledge that we can not teach to other. climbing is not a lotery where you wait for your turn to fall.

 
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