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91
Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by Admin Al on June 28, 2015, 08:21:07 AM »




That's cool... Where did u get it? I carry one in my Camelback on the MTB, but this might be better.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by JBrochu on June 27, 2015, 09:07:33 PM »


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General Climbing / Re: Google Street View of El Capitan
« Last post by strandman on June 27, 2015, 04:42:18 PM »
Don't let LL see..it will ruin the on sight :angel:
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by strandman on June 27, 2015, 09:04:58 AM »
You can do Diagonal with virtually no exposure to PI,,but it is kinda runout.

Shadowline had a tree ?  Shit, I wish it was ther when i did it..an awesome, techy,pumpy little gem for sure

I'm not much of a tree cutter for f/a's   don't like carrying a bow saw around ropes
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by xcrag_corex on June 26, 2015, 08:27:11 PM »
I was just being sarcastic guys. ;D I was, however, curious as to why nobody tried eliminating the poison ivy on diagonal. That being in the description was enough to keep me away. Is it a route that would see more traffic if the PI was gone?

As far as anchors go... I do love a nice Tree belay but I think bolts or natural pro is a little more eco friendly/ durable. Some trees just seem to survive in precarious places, and I wonder how much stress we are putting on them.

I wonder what the tree on top of Sea of Holes looked like on the FA. Quite a bit of land eroded out from under it now with some dead roots. ( I am aware you can do the variation to a bolt belay). But in all fairness.... I wonder how much of that erosion is water, after all you can tell that upper slab sees a lot of moisture by the slime on it 😉
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by The other tomcat on June 26, 2015, 08:19:48 PM »
So, like, saving some trees and cutting others as you see fit?

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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on June 26, 2015, 07:21:18 PM »
@ Mr. Alpinestart : I'm actually okay with cutting the occasional tree, but at the same time guess it's probably not a good idea with all the land managers. How do you contrast that with the argument to place a bolted anchor to save a tree at the belay ledge.

 And what is Slow Transit?

Good question. Short answer is bolted anchor at the top of a climb is better than a tree anchor that is 20+ feet from the end of the climb, esp. when the previous, closer, belay tree died from climber impact (IMO).

To me Bombardment is the perfect example, but I'm not starting that battle again. I'm sure the 14 page thread is around here somewhere, I think it was 10 years ago? Anyways...

Slow Transit:

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=routes&RouteID=289

Even better if you want to just want to hit the 5.9 pitch 3 of Rapid Transit IMO is to climb the beginning of Darcy's Traverse and just angle up and right to the anchor. Not to hard, 5.5ish, a bit run out, but no long traverse like Slow Transit.
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by The other tomcat on June 26, 2015, 06:03:14 PM »
That's a good name for it John...haha ! Best way to do Standard is first pitch of Repulsion, Toe Crack, the left arÍte-y thing that takes you to those cool crystal pockets over the overhangs right of Lancelot. You barely have to touch it. Tradchick and I had a basketball sized chunk land between us at the belay below the cave, some guy kicked it out above us, struggling out of the cave.. I was totally freaked, it split up in front of our eyes, and kept going. MRS  were in the process of removing someone on a stokes that had been injured on Turner Flake, and all I could imagine was laying face up in a stokes and....luckily they had just passed!

I like the belay ledge at the top of Retaliation ! 8)

Shadowline had tree surgery too did it not?

@ Mr. Alpinestart : I'm actually okay with cutting the occasional tree, but at the same time guess it's probably not a good idea with all the land managers. How do you contrast that with the argument to place a bolted anchor to save a tree at the belay ledge.

 And what is Slow Transit?
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by strandman on June 26, 2015, 05:40:14 PM »
We should start with Woods in the Crack  aka Standard on Cathedral

Shit, i bet george hasn't gone through more than 2 brushes in his life  :D
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Rock Climbing: Trad / Re: Less traveled classic moderates on Cathedral
« Last post by NEAlpineStart on June 26, 2015, 04:57:37 PM »
Kinder was foolish to cut what he did..and then try to hide it....

Different area different ethic... chopping trees in the East is as cool as chopping bolts ;)

This is actually a topic that could be worth discussing, re: vegetation removal. I mean, in the east, we have to chop & scrub vegetation from lichen & moss to bigger things (Pine Tree Eliminate, Lower Refuse). As long as it is not endangered or "fragile", which I think was the issue with the tree Kinder chopped, it's pretty fair game to trim the vegetation back on our Eastern crags right? While I still think bolted anchors make more sense where trees are getting eroded (Bombardment) I do actively trim branches on routes that interfere with belay positioning, etc... Echo Crag in Franconia Notch is a great example, IMO, of using bolted anchors to reduce environmental damage at the top of climbs. Rumney too for that matter...

I think it was an Alpinist article that labeled G. Hurley as "The Constant Gardener" which perfectly sums up the kind of work is required when new routing (or maintaining) some of NH's rock climbs. We may be the Granite State but we are quite green!
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