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 on: August 12, 2014, 01:46:43 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by Admin Al
I also saw the bear in the woods behind Thresher. Pretty surprising.

On a trip to Red Rocks the wife and I watched from the top of the first pitch or Frogland as a red squirrel got into my pack and ate my lunch. Chucking rocks at it had no effect.

From the top of pitch 2 of Moby Dick at Cochise we watched a ring tailed cat tear my pack apart. Nothing to do other than keep climbing.

 on: August 12, 2014, 12:06:51 PM 
Started by scottfsmith - Last post by lucky luke
someone came here to ask for family top-rope suggestions...

In my opinion, there is no real good place to climb with your family in north conway area. Rumney is a better place. I saw many people from Quebec going there and they take a secion of the cliff and set many rope.there ishing  four or six parents for the same number of children and they climb each one after the other. This gave the occasion for the parents to climb "hard" without to have to hire some one for the child. Bolt are very good as the parents can go down very fast and he can try very hard move that he won't try other way.

North conway is more for daugter/son with dad or mom. In a first trip, you want some thing exciting, like elephant head, where you have to work with each other to go to the summit. At that stage, I thing that the child most try as many technique as he can. He will remember ten percent of it, but will know that there is much more than just clipping a bolt. he most learn the danger and how to avoid it, more than how to make a 5.11 move without imitation. The fun of climbing will begin from eighteen to sixty with good and bad sequences. They will have the time to climb hard, if you have done every thing the first three years, why should you climb more. You probably do all the hardiest problem if you climb intensively.

Boulder is a different class. The movement are really hard and a lot of effort is place in doing the movement perfectly. As a gymnaste, the climber will try and try many time a move to be able to master it. As the goal is to make one move, it is not important if they don't reach the summit onsight. The important is how hard is the move and how efficient you are. As it can be hard to find boulder, the climber look around, in the air and saw that some section of a route is a boulder. To climb it, they need a stance. the stance is a bolt. So boulder climber prefer to do a boulder close to the ground, but they will make some in a cliff.

Trad climbing is also different. The goal is not really the movement, not really the commitment, mostly a good relationship with your partner to have good time, an expedition with a bottom of the cliff and a summit, etc. hard to define.  But it is always with a better understanding of our reaction under stress.

 on: August 12, 2014, 10:37:21 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by pappy
I was in the Tuolumne area on the PCT, so, bear country. this was '81 so no bear boxes, and no one had thought of canisters yet. but the bastards hadn't yet figured out how to deal with competently hung counter weighted food bags either. I hung my food, and then pitched my tent maybe 10' from the tree. guess I thought it would provide some deterrence towards trying for my food. It didn't.

I woke up about 2AM from the scratching and bitching as it climbed the tree, followed by ten minutes of full on bitching and moaning while it tried to get at the food bags. I'm mostly trying to be as still as a tree root and wondering how I could be so stupid. But when I heard it start to down climb the tree, fully cranky now cause it couldn't get the food, I sat up. It's CA and it ain't gonna rain, so I don't have the fly on the tent and can look straight out the two mesh windows. I've got my nose right up against one cause I'm going to get to see a bear. And I've got my fuel bottle and lighter ready, because my plan in a serious encounter was to cause a lot of fire in a hurry.

It walked by not 18" from nose. I have no good idea how big it was, because there's just no frame of reference when it's that close. There was just a sh#t load lot of bear moving by. I sat like a rock for at least 15 minutes because when they're not bitching about something they actually move pretty quiet, so you think you heard it move off but you're just not sure and maybe it's still out there. Then I heard the camp across the stream erupt in screaming and pot banging. It got their food. they guessed the next morning it was 250lbs anyway, and sat right above their camp all night chowing and belching and farting and throwing up and just having a high old bear kind of party. Bears--can't live with'm, can sure do without them.

 on: August 12, 2014, 07:32:01 AM 
Started by strandman - Last post by neiceclimber
Over the years I've had plenty of encounters. 6 or 7 moose chargings, two sent me up trees, and two gave up after we did a short dance around a tree. Got cliffed by a giant black bear that walked out onto my routes starting ledge while I was soloing, then sauntered down the only trail off the cliff. Walked into a foggy snowy basin and after maybe  thirty minutes decided the fog wasn't going to lift, turned around and about 200 yards later found grizzly bear tracks following my tracks. Skiing some late season snow I heard my buddy let out a crazy scream and he comes flying by me in a tuck screaming bear, bear, bear. Apparently, I had skied by a grizzly on the side of the trail without knowing and when he went by it was on its hind legs watching me. Once saw a lynx while bouldering. By far the most surreal encounter was opening my back door early one morning and finding a moose staring back at me on the other side not more than six inches from my face.

My neighbor woke up one early morning to the sound of smashing glass. Thinking someone's breaking into his car he calls the cops and flips on his outside lights only to find two bulls duking it out between his cars .

 on: August 12, 2014, 07:21:00 AM 
Started by David_G48 - Last post by PG
Don't forget Rains and Tim Rouner. They, especially Rains put up some of the hardest lines up at the Lake and Franconia Notch in the mid 70s. I met Rains about 8 years ago and we just chatted for a couple of hours about everything and anything. This person is the real deal. Modest, humble, genuine human being. It was a true pleasure and honor to have met him.


 on: August 11, 2014, 11:37:24 PM 
Started by David_G48 - Last post by the_other_andy
80's never happened and if you put a bolt in, forget it.
Totally agree with John.

 on: August 11, 2014, 10:12:19 PM 
Started by David_G48 - Last post by Jeff
David, I led this with my friend Anne P. yesterday afternoon; agree with the grade, but it's no "giveaway"; found it still quite dirty, which should improve with traffic, rock a bit fragile in places, definitely NOT a sport route--without the recommended gear list (at least the cams) it would be really necky. It kept our interest and we enjoyed it!! Thanks for the addition.

 on: August 11, 2014, 10:03:44 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by Echo
Solo’d up Thresher a few years ago and startled a black bear right at the top... was that odd year the bears where not hibernating on time for some reason...

 on: August 11, 2014, 09:36:13 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by triguy
Pulled a bat out from behind a flake once...thought it was moss.

Numerous clouse encounters with pidgeons at Seneca.

Had a squirrel climb onto my lap while in my deer stand bow hunting.

Snakes on ledges are great when on lead!

Black bears in the smokeys.

Saw a black bear crossing the glacier on Shucksan. That was pretty cool.

Sharks circling the boat 20 miles off shore while chumming for tuna will keep your attention.

 on: August 11, 2014, 09:06:44 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by sneoh
Numerous unplanned encounters with snakes and birds over the years.  Well, one might have been a bat (too fast to be sure).  Deers, too.  Nothing "over sized", however.  Bears would be terrifying.

How about a wolf dog that weighed more than I do?  Wait, that was someone's "pet".

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