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 91 
 on: October 13, 2014, 11:24:40 AM 
Started by lucky luke - Last post by lucky luke
Just came back from the gunks where I climbed with two beginners with the amc group.

always a great adventure to bring new climber on the cliff and to share there stress and victory. although climbing at my level is also interesting, climbing with inexperience climber is always fun when they want to climb.

On that trip, one interesting thing was to see how the stress can change our judgment. Some people are not able to do a simple knot under stress. It was not the case, but the climber was a little bit stress by his knots and the solidity of the anchor. he probably didn't remember any thing of that tomorrow, but when he is going to be at the sharp edge of the rope...any thing that he learned under stress will come back to his memory.

For me, it is the most important thing about climbing with AMC group. To be able to see our weakness and strength and to plan to workout to be a better climber. As people do boulder, sport and trad, they learned to remember what they are doing in boulder first and after sport and, finally, we saw a big regression in trad because under stress...you loose a part of your capacity to think correctly... you are doing mistake and loose confidence.   

 92 
 on: October 12, 2014, 05:09:56 PM 
Started by strandman - Last post by markvnh
Was given a Wachusett Brewing Larry DIPA - had after today's mountain bike ride. 8.5 ABV and 85 IBU's. Not bad and would like to try on tap.

 93 
 on: October 12, 2014, 09:53:09 AM 
Started by tradchick - Last post by tradchick
$150 for the 4 ice screws or will sell individually for $40.00  :)

 94 
 on: October 10, 2014, 05:28:32 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by lucky luke
John,

When I did the "Nose" in 1971, with George Myers, it was George's first big wall, and I had never climbed with him before. Sometimes you get lucky joining up with someone you never climbed with.

As you know, Goorge went on to write many big wall topo books.

I had a good partner in 2011... :( I was the poor one

Indeed, I didn't "spaghetti" the rope and the king swing with the haul bag and the miserable one was easy and technically, I don't make any mistake even if my partner haul all the time except four pitch.

 95 
 on: October 10, 2014, 04:44:03 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by lucky luke
All my excuses to Doug Madara. Still, it is in super topo and big wall.

 96 
 on: October 10, 2014, 04:32:27 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by strandman
John,

When I did the "Nose" in 1971, with George Myers, it was George's first big wall, and I had never climbed with him before. Sometimes you get lucky joining up with someone you never climbed with.

As you know, Goorge went on to write many big wall topo books.
[/quot
True, sometimes we all get lucky

 97 
 on: October 10, 2014, 04:26:45 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by Lucky Lucy
I was astonish that Doug Madara teach a technique with one aider.

It's not Doug Madara in the You tube video dumbass, it's Chris McNamara!

1 aider is how I learned. Way simpler!

 98 
 on: October 10, 2014, 03:46:01 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by lucky luke
Where did you see those?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyVtbmuQ7bI

For a beginner, it look great, good reason, appealing...

with experiences, you will understand that people look around and take for ever because they don't trust there pro, and can find a good placement higher. 

Using your hand to take a hold is also very dangerous if the pro pop out, you will try to avoid the fall by using the hold. hanging on two hands, waiting to fall, is not the best situation, I prefer to fall and do it again.

Dave, you use a technique with two pairs of aiders. is it slower or pratically the same as other people using just one pair at the same time, or madara techniuque? 


 99 
 on: October 10, 2014, 01:43:08 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by SA
John,

When I did the "Nose" in 1971, with George Myers, it was George's first big wall, and I had never climbed with him before. Sometimes you get lucky joining up with someone you never climbed with.

As you know, Goorge went on to write many big wall topo books.

 100 
 on: October 10, 2014, 12:43:35 PM 
Started by ralbert20 - Last post by strandman
Personally,,I would climb a bit with someone before heading up the Nose..maybe that's just me..The single aider/both feet technique is stupid

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