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General => General Climbing => Topic started by: Admin Al on September 14, 2017, 09:50:22 PM

Title: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: Admin Al on September 14, 2017, 09:50:22 PM
I wrote the following in this week's Report, but wanted to break it out here separately.

I received a very disturbing email just before I went away on my vacation regarding anchors. according to the person who sent it, he has found some anchors that apparently have been deliberately made unsafe. I have no way to verify this information, but regardless it brings up something that we all should do on a regular basis, which is examine any and all fixed anchors BEFORE we clip in or rappel from them. While I have never personally seen any that were sabotaged, I have seen many that were basically worn out or damaged by animals. Simply assuming that an anchor is good, is a bad idea - most especially when the outcome of an anchor failing can be catastrophic.

FWIW I received the information in a .DOCX file, which I was unable to convert to something more useable than a JPG. Regardless, here it is. Make of it what you will...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170914/RapAnchorWarning.jpg
Title: Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: Ducayet on September 15, 2017, 02:19:09 PM
It is pretty hard to determine if a cord was "cut", as in from a knife, or if a critter decided to give it a chew. I leave a lot of rope and electrical wires out in forests for work and a lot of it gets gnawed on, rarely do they chew all the way through something before they figure out it's not food.

Regardless of malicious intent, the take home message is the same: check out any fixed anchors, especially the soft stuff.

Thanks for sharing this.
Title: Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: Jeff on September 16, 2017, 02:38:43 PM
A good friend and fellow guide wondered if the routes in question are also climbed as winter routes. He suggested that someone could have cut the cords to remove in the winter and then found them so frozen in place that he didn't remove them. While I find this far fetched (although I hope not as farfetched as deliberate sabotage!)and in the case of
the blue one seemingly " just lengthened" , impossible, I would hope that in such a case, the "cutter" would at least                                                                                                                                                                                cut again in the front to make the damage obvious!! In any case, the message to take away should be clear to all of us. Check the integrity of ALL components of ANY and ALL belay and rappel anchors before trusting your life and those of your party to them!! I'll never again just clip into a sling around a tree at the end of a pitch, without checking it first. "Forewarned is forearmed"  :'(
Title: Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on September 17, 2017, 08:36:28 AM
Question/ if someone sabotaged an anchor how do they get down afterwards? It would take a pretty malicious mind to do this....
Title: Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: Admin Al on September 21, 2017, 09:40:10 PM
Question/ if someone sabotaged an anchor how do they get down afterwards? It would take a pretty malicious mind to do this....

wrap a rope around the tree & rap!
Title: Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on September 22, 2017, 06:40:17 AM
 which would mean they were climbers = disturbing....
Title: Re: Deliberately sabotaged anchors?
Post by: Classof64er on December 20, 2017, 04:18:48 PM
I sent this to Al and to answer a few of the questions: 1) Neither climb is likely to be done in the winter, one is on Table Mtn the other on Rainbow.  2) While table does have a hiking trail, the anchor in question (the "cut and extended" blue cord) is on the top of a climb that would require a class 3 exposed downclimb of a slab, followed by bushwhacking, followed by a 50ft 5.2 - 5.3 downclimb/scramble (or rappel) on sandy slab to get to. This, BTW, could never have been done by an animal; the one on Rainbow might...possibly have been "eaten" but the cut through is/was clean and far away from the knots and ends (most "animal eatings" that I have run into usually are of the frayed ends of the cord, not the dead-middle.)