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General => New Ice Routes => Topic started by: dogboy on February 13, 2006, 02:13:56 PM

Title: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: dogboy on February 13, 2006, 02:13:56 PM
OK, here are the details:
The Crystal Gate, Grade 5, IV
The climb is located on the far left of Go Back Mountain, on the end opposite Valhalla. Locate two huge chimneys left of center of the cliff. Approximately 50 yards left of the 2 chimneys is a small chimney. 30' left of the smaller chimney is another chimney. The climb is located inside this chimney. It is a spectacular icefall consisting of 2 pillars deep within a cleft in the cliff.

Climb 2 short pillars to reach a large alcove 40' inside the chimney. You will now be standing at the base of the 2 main pillars, one on the left wall and one on the right, that form the "Gate." Climb the right pillar for 80', using the right wall when possible to stem. The pillar starts out 6' wide, and pinches down to a mere 3' wide at the top. Top out awkwardly and with difficulty in the narrow slot. Belay and rappel from the large tree at the top. 150'

The climb is all ice...no rock gear needed.

Note: The crux of this climb is definitely the approach and location. The FA party hiked for 4 hours through difficult terrain to reach the climb. There is no help available for at least 6 or 7 hours, so be prepared!

FA: Ian Austin and Jeff Cavicchi, February 12, 2006
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: DLottmann on February 13, 2006, 08:21:59 PM
Looks like a gem... nice job... the pics on NEIce might motivate me to walk that far...
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: eastcoastblowhard on February 13, 2006, 08:40:30 PM
Finally a worthy ascent!
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: Admin Al on February 14, 2006, 01:37:26 AM
and the real question is "Is Valhalla IN?"

nice job BTW...

--al
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: tradmanclimbz on February 14, 2006, 08:10:15 AM
Good Job!! You may want to read the post on neice  " new rt on broback mountain" nice job big guy ;)
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: DWarriner on February 14, 2006, 08:16:12 AM

and the real question is "Is Valhalla IN?"


Naawww..  That's more like a question for the conditions forum.  This is new routes forum. :-)  I respect anyone who thrashes around for days doing recon to search out climbs for the rest of us lazy people (like Ian did), instead of just climbing where it's all mapped out for them.
 Â 
There is no "real question here."

Nice job guys.  

-David

Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: dogboy on February 14, 2006, 09:02:58 AM
and the real question is "Is Valhalla IN?"

nice job BTW...

--al

You'll have to do the hike yourself to find out...otherwise it would be cheating... 8)
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: punxnotdead on February 14, 2006, 11:16:39 AM
Excellent Job!!!!  WAAAAY to far of a hike for me though.....
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: mopowers on February 14, 2006, 07:46:41 PM
  You will spray to the whole internet about the route you seconded but wont give a report about the other routes?!
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: Jim_Ewing on February 15, 2006, 08:11:11 AM
Finally a worthy ascent!

I don't know dude, looks to me like Ian's elbow is touching rock up there.  I'd call that mixed climbing for sure. ;)

Nice job guys!  Looks like a real plum.
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: Admin Al on February 15, 2006, 08:36:45 AM
  You will spray to the whole internet about the route you seconded but wont give a report about the other routes?!

well ya gotta figure that if it was IN they would have done it!

 ::)
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: dogboy on February 15, 2006, 09:32:31 AM

I don't know dude, looks to me like Ian's elbow is touching rock up there.  I'd call that mixed climbing for sure. ;)



Damn!  We were hoping no one would notice... ;)
Title: Re: New Route at Go Back Mountain
Post by: Left on April 05, 2006, 09:56:44 AM
Quick end-of-season update;

Kryptonite, WI5, twin flow left of Crystal Gate (see image).
FA Jon Fowler, Ian Austin 3/23/06.

BTW, Valhalla didn't come in either this season or last.