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General => Rock Climbing: Trad => Topic started by: lucky luke on March 13, 2014, 01:50:15 PM

Title: what the plan for the season?
Post by: lucky luke on March 13, 2014, 01:50:15 PM
Going to try the nose in september, so I have to plan my season to be in top shape at that moment. I am training for strenght actually and will train for technique as soon as the xyz >:( snow will disappear. I plan to climb sport in the spring and multipitch route of 5.7, 5.8 and increase my work out to multi pitch of 5.9- 5.11 in june. Will take a rest, trtain for strenght and pick in september.

So, did you plan your season? and how are yopu going to be prepare?
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: WharfRat on March 13, 2014, 02:22:28 PM
No plan,

Although I envy your Approach and commitment.

It reminds me of the approach I once took to training for endurance sports. I really enjoyed and miss the very deliberate committed focused training I did back then. Now I just climb myself into shape with only loose goals.

For instance last season my second season rock climbing I just wanted to lead 5.10 gear with ease. I go to the point I could onsight 5.10b on gear by mid season C's with a couple falls and a few d's with some work. Well leading 5.10D at the Gunks things came to a abrupt halt but that did not stop me from trying. Other than that I wanted to onsight some 5.11 sport and I did that pretty easy also pretty early in the season. I never did crack the 5.12's I tried but I did come close.

This past ice season, maybe my 5th I wanted to move from leading 4's to 5's I also did that with relative ease just climbing week in and week out and no training.

If I could find the right partners to train for bigger objectives I would. Most all my partners are older, have full time 9-5's families and can't commit for one reason or another to big trips worth actually training for. That is not to say that once upon a time they did not as they did. I just happen to be 20-30 years younger than them and have no desire for a family of my own hence plenty of time and motivation to climb.

My plan this season is to lead 5.11 gear and 5.12 sport and have lots of fun sleeping in the back of my truck or on the ground eating outa a cooler and waking up with the sun. f I get someplace cool also that is a bonus. I do have a tentative plan to get to France for the next winter climbing season but I will believe it only when I land in France and only when I land in France.

So my goals, have fun and climb harder than I did last season even if only by very little. And climb more than work. If I do that I will sleep well....
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 13, 2014, 05:55:15 PM
Sorry to say LL..endurance it what you want for the nose..strength and technique is fine, but will only get you so far. It's VERY hard to get ready in the east.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: lucky luke on March 13, 2014, 07:17:57 PM
Sorry to say LL..endurance it what you want for the nose..strength and technique is fine, but will only get you so far. It's VERY hard to get ready in the east.

Hard but feasible. The nose have 32 pitch, in five day it is six pitch a day. Great five traverse, the gurdle traverse with an haulbag, vertigo, union, dolomite, and moby to the top in a day.

Harder is to find some one whit time and motivation to climb at a modest level to reach such a big wall. some time I can climb with a partner in a morning and an other in the afternoon.

I think that gypsie, intimidation, diedral, recompense in a day will be a full day of climbing. Around ten pitches.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 13, 2014, 09:20:33 PM
True,,but remember the big rack   :D  and the haul bag
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: SA on March 14, 2014, 07:38:46 AM
LL,

Doing the Nose is just a lot of work. More than half the people bail because of the mental problem, rather than the lack of technical skills. When I did it in 1971, my partner wanted to bail when we were half way up, ( the weather was bad). I convinced him to go up and the weather cleared. You just have to be tough and have the right mental attitude. Having a good partner is more than half the battle in getting up any route on El Cap.

I'm sure you already know this.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 14, 2014, 07:54:41 AM
don't forget to work the x possition;)  seriously I would think cannon is the place to train for any serious big wall adventures. I was chatting with Tim D. once and he told me that Moby takes him about 20 min to climb unroped. that is probobly a decent fitness level to strive for:)
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: xcrag_corex on March 14, 2014, 08:17:50 AM
Goals goals goals. So much to climb, so little time.... Ultimately I would like to put in a bit of time on Cannon this year, Climb at Greens, tick off a couple of classics at WH and Cathedral, and make it back to the Gunks. Above all else, I want to spend time climbing with my friends. Normally get a bit of mileage and flight time in on some or the rad trad cracks at P-Way. There are definitely some projects out there that I'm hoping will go this season for me :D
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: OldEric on March 14, 2014, 09:55:31 AM
True,,but remember the big rack   :D  and the haul bag

Bingo.  When we did the in 77 I thought we were well prepared having spent long days doing plenty of (relatively) hard stuff on Cannon etc.  And we were technically ready - no climbing came close to stopping us.  But that first day of hauling when the bag is the heaviest and the angle the lowest was brutal.

That's why people that jug the pig to Heart and then do the Free Blast without the load have NOT done the Salathe IMHO.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 14, 2014, 11:02:05 AM
We hauled a relatively small pig for a 2 biv ascent of the Nose..I vowed never again..Fact is the hauling on the Nose really sucks  until above El Cap tower (about halfway)

LL- i know you want onsight ascent, so don't read anymore-

6 pitches a day is fine theory..so where is biv #1 ?  a couple pitches above Sickle ?? that won't work//you better hit Dolt at least  ..prolly 10 pitches up with combo pitches

5 days.. 2 people is about 75lbs just in water..3 ropes..shit tube etc..it really adds up fast  I really got into the fast/light thing in Yos and it seemed so much better....you get to do 2 walls a week instead of one  ;D
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: DGoguen on March 14, 2014, 12:18:12 PM
Along that same line as above.
Do a few local aid climbs at night for training. We arrived at Dolt around Midnight, not the place to try it for the first time.
Brought the bags across the King Swing at night, Etc.
Day and night kind of blend after a while.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 14, 2014, 12:27:25 PM
12 hours is the "easy' day... we did Watkins in the "daypack only" mode, maybe 15-18 lbs. Sure your wiped out, but NOT from hauling and fucking around...from climbing.

Imagine practice hauling a 75 lb pig on Intimidation ??  the HORROR
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: lucky luke on March 14, 2014, 07:25:23 PM
LL- i know you want onsight ascent, so don't read anymore-

For me, it is a kind of revenge. I can't do a first ascent any more. I was in...leading the easier of 4 pitch...

I trained so much, goiing climbing to north conway, sleeping little, working to make money...pushing over the limit.

I was climbing the route. My body said no!!!. My head was empty... (72 hours drive in three days, after five days in yosemite... and some climb around between thunderstorm)

Don't laught. I jug the nose. I was with a good partner and I follow him, I helped him as my hauling technique was good.

I took two years to come back to my level. This year, I feel confortable and ready. One month in the yos!!!

for hauling...I practice on the pro with 80 pounds pack. Rock in the haul bag.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: SA on March 15, 2014, 07:59:33 AM
When did head lamps come in?

We never had any when I did the Nose. I remember hanging from the rope one night, on a blank face, since we couldn't see a damn thing, once the sun went down. Not a good night for sleeping.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 15, 2014, 08:44:33 AM
Remember those big  red plastic headlamps with the rubber innertube headband and really expensive D cell lithium battery that Climb High sold back in the eightys...
Title: Re: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: DGoguen on March 15, 2014, 11:30:12 AM
Remember those big  red plastic headlamps
In winter you had to keep the  4D size battery pack in your underwear and run the wires to your head just to keep it warm and working.
I really don't miss winter camping,  I gotta say.

Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: Pete Jackson on March 15, 2014, 12:43:42 PM
Going to try the nose in september, so I have to plan my season to be in top shape at that moment. I am training for strenght actually and will train for technique as soon as the xyz >:( snow will disappear. I plan to climb sport in the spring and multipitch route of 5.7, 5.8 and increase my work out to multi pitch of 5.9- 5.11 in june. Will take a rest, trtain for strenght and pick in september.

So, did you plan your season? and how are yopu going to be prepare?

I am looking forward to hearing the stories from this trip! Good luck, Luke. And I hope your training season is fruitful.

I have not climbed the nose, but I'd say to aim for longer days than 10 pitches while training. Maybe carry some of those rocks by the trailhead back up tot the top of Canon?

In any case: best of luck, and I hope you meet your goal this year!
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 16, 2014, 07:27:18 AM
Plan to get back on my 4 unfinished projects and finish them up. Found a new area this winter that is too far away for day trips. Hope to camp a few weekends there with extra extra batterys and all the fixings:)
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 17, 2014, 10:12:40 AM
Big pack...big thrash   8)
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: tradmanclimbz on March 19, 2014, 06:45:04 AM
Actually it is going to be van camping 8)
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: Admin Al on March 19, 2014, 07:21:10 AM
I'm hoping to finish up a couple of projects I've had in the works for a while. I also want to get out to some different places, like Longstack for some variety. Going to the Gunks in May with George for a week is also on the list. A real road trip would be nice, but that isn't going to happen due to musical commitments - I'm booked playing gigs almost every weekend into the fall!
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: David_G48 on March 19, 2014, 08:42:44 AM
Al,
There are 2 kinds of employed workers; over worked and out of work. The decision is a personal one.........you probably are currently following the best coarse of action.
Cheers
David
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: ralbert20 on March 19, 2014, 12:22:32 PM
I'm lucky, my season has already started. We just got back from 3 days at T-Wall in TN. Next Saturday we are heading to JTree and Tahquitz/ SR for the first time. We also booked a week at the climber's ranch in WY in August, and plan on hitting the high Sierra or possibly the Bugs for a week as well. There is also talk of El Potrero for Christmas. Those are the big plans. I would like to get back to the Dacks, having only been there once, and I would like to continue working on 10s in the Gunks, having only gotten a few so far. I would also like to do another lap on Vertigo, and some of the other Cannon classics that I have not done for a while, since for some reason I did not get there at all last year! Up in Conway, I'd like to finally have the cajones to finish Children's Crusade, Total Recall, and hopefully Loose lips. I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

Training involves 2 days inside the gym during the week, and at least 1 day outside every weekend. I am following Horst's guide for climbing 5.12 for the first time. We'll see how it pans out. I don't actually care about sending 12s, hard 10s on sight is my goal, with possibly a 12 on sport if I find the right one.

I am fortunate that I have a GF who likes to climb as much as I do :)

Al- Longstack is super fun. We spent 3 days there last year, loved it!
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: lucky luke on March 19, 2014, 01:11:58 PM
I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

training to have better grip? any one have training plan for that? some think fun to keep motivation
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: JBeta on March 19, 2014, 04:02:58 PM
I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

training to have better grip? any one have training plan for that? some think fun to keep motivation

Hangboarding. There's no better way to increase finger strength.

Check out the Beastmaker 2000. It even has a cool training app: http://www.revolutionclimbing.com/BEASTMAKER--2000-Series-Training-Board_p_299.html



Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 19, 2014, 04:30:38 PM
Quiincy Quarries will get your fingers strong.

ralbert--Suicide is so good and a nice break from JT ripping
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: sneoh on March 19, 2014, 05:34:35 PM
Rob, I believe I know that "last" move on Airation you mentioned.  As I recall, it is pretty painful on the pinky for me.  But your hand and fingers are larger than mine so it might just be tips for you on the thinner "jams".  After the first try on it, I found it to be quite reasonable at .10+/.11- if one finds and uses all the footholds on the face.  They might be a little hard to spot first and second go but they are there. 

Head over to Sundown too.  I found Vultures as hard if not harder than Airation.  Hot Henry does not give anything away, that is for sure.  You might find Romper Room and/or Eyeless to fit your "sporting" style.  Both are solid at their grades and climb well.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 19, 2014, 08:56:27 PM
At sundown..try Shadowline..rather harder than 11- ..it's original grade
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: kenreville on March 19, 2014, 09:56:35 PM
If you choose to heed Mr. Strands suggestion, keep in mind that Shadowline is (IMO) one big sandbag.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: JBeta on March 20, 2014, 02:53:30 PM
 

Head over to Sundown too.  I found Vultures as hard if not harder than Airation.  Hot Henry does not give anything away, that is for sure.  You might find Romper Room and/or Eyeless to fit your "sporting" style.  Both are solid at their grades and climb well.

Definitely agree with this. Sundown is a great early-season spot. And Eyeless stays dry no matter what's going on with the weather. Now if only someone would bolt that old sketchy .10 just left of Eyeless. It would be great to have a quick warmup on that wall.
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: Pete Jackson on March 20, 2014, 05:08:43 PM
Hangboarding. There's no better way to increase finger strength.

And hit strips, but be careful with them!
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: strandman on March 20, 2014, 06:32:46 PM
If you choose to heed Mr. Strands suggestion, keep in mind that Shadowline is (IMO) one big sandbag.

I have no problem giving Shadowline 12B
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: ralbert20 on March 24, 2014, 09:04:24 AM
Rob, I believe I know that "last" move on Airation you mentioned.  As I recall, it is pretty painful on the pinky for me.  But your hand and fingers are larger than mine so it might just be tips for you on the thinner "jams".  After the first try on it, I found it to be quite reasonable at .10+/.11- if one finds and uses all the footholds on the face.  They might be a little hard to spot first and second go but they are there. 

Head over to Sundown too.  I found Vultures as hard if not harder than Airation.  Hot Henry does not give anything away, that is for sure.  You might find Romper Room and/or Eyeless to fit your "sporting" style.  Both are solid at their grades and climb well.

"Sporting" I think you have me confused with someone else Soon! I only climb sport when I can't climb trad for some reason!

Sundown is great - I think Vultures is easier than Airation - since I was able to do it cleanly on TR after failing to lead it, and because it eases up considerably after the first 15' or so, while Airation gets harder as it goes up. A caveat is that I I was on Vultures more recently than Airation though, so I may have gotten stronger since then. I think you are right about the fingers thing - mine don't fit in Airation at all, yet I get great locks on Vultures.

I have not been on Eyeless yet, as the grade has scared me away. Bill S. says it is one of his favorites in New England though, so maybe this year I'll give it a try.

Pete - I was just reading about HIT strips. So far this season has seen me training with an actual plan, and I am seeing improvements for the first time in about 5-6 years. I might give those a try.

Also - since we are now talking about classic cracks - I can't wait to get back on Screaming Yellow Zonkers. That thing totally kicked my ass! 11c, yeah, right!
Title: Re: what the plan for the season?
Post by: eyebolter on March 25, 2014, 06:43:02 PM
I would like the redpoint on Airation, as the last 2 tries left tears in my eyes since my fingers were just not strong enough to do the last move!

training to have better grip? any one have training plan for that? some think fun to keep motivation

Hangboarding. There's no better way to increase finger strength.

Check out the Beastmaker 2000. It even has a cool training app: http://www.revolutionclimbing.com/BEASTMAKER--2000-Series-Training-Board_p_299.html


Maybe, but ditch the fingerboard and hit the boulders and you will climb way harder.

If climbing was all about strength we would all be climbing like Sly Stallone (feet off, double dyno every move) in Cliffhanger.

By all means use the fingerboard if you can't boulder (a systems board will translate to climbing far better).   But there is way more to climbing hard than finger strength.