Author Topic: Abel Slab  (Read 1064 times)

cwoodman

  • Guest
Abel Slab
« on: July 01, 2009, 11:21:09 AM »
This is a nice slab for beginners or anyone who likes moderate slab climbing. Located in Crawford Notch, it offers clean, low angle granite that is reasonably protected. The climbs range from 5.2 to 5.6 and from 60' to 300' in length. The slab faces southwest and gets good afternoon sun. It dries quickly after rain, but right now, like most slabs, it's wet. Hopefully the weather pattern changes soon so we at least get a couple months of summer. Here's a brief description of the approach and climbs for anyone who's interested.
Park on 302 where the AT crosses and hike on the Webster Cliff Tr., cross the Saco on a new bridge, and take a left on the Saco Tr. (sign). After 150', just beyond a pile of boulders, look for a cairn on the right and head into the woods. Follow cairns and a few ribbons diagonally uphill for 15-30 minutes until you see rock uphill. Scramble up loose dirt and end up at the bottom of the slab at the start of Saco Bound. There are a couple short climbs to the left, but most are right. 
From left to right, the climbs are as follows-  Far Left  5.6  110'.  Up a face to a corner (small nuts), then up and left past a couple bolts to an anchor. Often wet up to the corner.  Little White Lie  5.4  60'.  Up a face, clip one bolt, to one bolt anchor.   Saco Bound 5.5  170'.  Follow a slight dike from the bottom of the slab, pass small 'eyebrows', continue to a two bolt anchor right of a bush. Nice climb. Can use 2-3 small cams to 1"   Black Sabbath 5.4  225'.  One of the original routes. Climbs greasy, black rock straight up to the woods. No pro.   Family Affair  5.4  180'  Start on a long, narrow ledge just right of the black rock and angle up & right past 3? bolts to a two bolt anchor.  Abel or Not  5.4  170'.  Directly below a small tree 100' up, climb a 3" wide raised dike up & left past 4? bolts to the same anchor as Abel or Not.   Expecting to Fly  5.6   240'.  Climb directly up to the small tree 100' up and belay 5.2. Continue straight up past a bolt to a steeper finish. Clip a bolt and surmount the bulge. Belay at a tree. 5.6  140'   Over the Top  5.4  250'.  Wander up and right, past a couple of small cam placements, to a bolt anchor 5.2  100'. Finish straight up on nice, white slab. 5.4 150'   Walkin' in the Rain  5.2  300'.  Start down and right at the slab's lowpoint. Straight up to a small corner (small nuts), then up past a bolt to a two bolt anchor. Continue up on nice, clean rock past a couple bolts to an anchor.
Gear to bring- a couple small nuts- BD #2-6, a couple cams to 1", 3 or 4 draws. A better climber can skip the nuts and cams, and a good slab climber can solo all these climbs easily. Some of these climbs may seem a bit run out for a beginner but the climbing is generally easy. A good place to safely learn to 'just keep going'. All in all, a fun day if you're just learning to slab climb, or if you like to explore 'out of the way' places. It'll be wet for awhile yet... but hey, September can be a nice month!   

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 916
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2009, 12:55:10 PM »
"Climbs greasy, black rock straight up to the woods. No pro."

Me likey  ;D.

Had never heard of this slab; thanks for the descriptions.
Now about that rain...

Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

meclimber

  • Guest
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2009, 04:19:53 PM »
Thanks Chuck, always appreciate the work you put in.

dpen

  • Guest
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2009, 11:19:23 PM »
Thx Chuck.  Is Abel Slab north or south of the slab where Lost in the Sun is located?

Offline brickheart

  • NEClimbs Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 7
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2009, 09:24:52 AM »
Thanks for the great info.
Sounds like a perfect place for a fat, old, beginning climber like myself.

cwoodman

  • Guest
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2009, 10:39:55 AM »
d-
Abel Slab is located about a mile south of 'Lost in the Sun', or about 1/2 mile south of Shoestring gully. You get a look at it (and Ethan Slab) from the road, over a swampy area, just north of the start of the Webster Cliff Trail. Abel Slab is the nice, clean one to the left, Ethan Slab is wet and dirty, to it's right. They're fairly close to the road, not way up high. 

Chuck

dpen

  • Guest
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #6 on: July 02, 2009, 11:13:59 AM »
Cool, thanks.

- Dave

Offline old_school

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2511
  • "Climb Now, Work Later."
Re: Abel Slab
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2009, 10:41:59 PM »
Dpens wheels are spinning!!!   ;)
"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."