Rick Wilcox

Rick has been climbing for over 40 years. In addition to 38 expeditions, including a successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1991, Rick has made 17 trips to the Himalaya. He has been President of the Mountain Rescue Service of New Hampshire for 20 years, served as secretary of the American Alpine Club for 9 years and was Director of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) for 6 years. He has owned International Mountain Equipment in North Conway, NH since 1979.

In 1965 when I first climbed on the granite of Whitehorse and Cathedral, the 38 meter - 120' - Goldline ropes were in use, as well as steel carabiners and pitons. Climbers who enjoy granite will quickly learn that on these traditionally protected routes good protection can definitely be had. Crack sizes rarely require larger than #2 Camelots and standard sizes of wires/stoppers (3-9) will be eaten up by the cracks and I usually double up on 5, 6 and 7's. Lots of carabiners and longer slings are useful, especially on the Whitehorse slabs where rope drag can sometimes be a problem and don't forget the keylock carabiners for racking the wired nuts.

Today's standard ropes are 60 meters - 200'. Because both cliffs are big, 300-1000', modern belay/rappel stations tend to be at least 50 meters apart. While single, 9.6-10.5 mm x 60 meter ropes are common on Conway granite, I personally prefer to climb on an 8.5-9.0 mm double rope system. While you have the potential for more rope spaghetti, this system offers a number of interesting advantages. You always have 400' of rappel rope with you. No "Oops, I forgot the second rope!" Also, if you take a party of three, the two seconds can safely climb on the two 9mm ropes "top roped." While necessary in harsh alpine climbing, double ropes are normally considered overkill here. I bring it up just as something to think about the next time you are in a market for a new rope system. In any event, carrying a second rope is a really good idea to get down fast in the common afternoon thunderstorms or as twilight approaches. The local Mountain Rescue Service (MRS) has retrieved many 5.11-5.12 climbers who were stuck at night and couldn't figure out how to rap in the dark. So, bring that extra rope and don't get stuck!

Climbers see lots of 3/8" stainless bolts and hangers on both Whitehorse and Cathedral. These are usually doubled at belays and rap stations and are generally bomber! In the 60's and 70's when many of the popular more modest 5.7-5.10 routes were pioneered, the 1.4" Rawl bolt was standard. While marginal but adequate protection in their day, it is important to remember that any of these on the cliffs are at least 30 years old! They should be avoided if at all possible and never be used for important anchors. With an aggressive bolt-replacement policy by local climbers, these are already less and less of a problem and most have been retired to the museums.

Most climbers spend a lot of time discussing what is the best gear for your rack. here are two lead racks I have put together at IME which are tailored to the area:

Trad Lead Rack
10 Wires: your choice, you pick 'em
1 Nut tool - BD (it also opens beer)
3 Tri-Cams - .5, 1, 1.5
4 SLCD's - you pick any 4
.1-3 Camalots or .00-4 Friends
4 Quickdraws
20 Carabiners
4 single nylon runners
2 double nylon runners

Enhanced Lead Rack
10 Wires: your choice, you pick 'em
1 Nut tool - BD (it also opens beer)
3 Tri-Cams - .5, 1, 1.5
6 SLCD's - you pick any 6
.1-3 Camalots or .00-4 Friends
4 Quickdraws (better quality)
20 Carabiners (better quality)
4 single Spectra runners (lighter, stronger, better)
2 double Spectra runners (lighter, stronger, better)

While either rack will give you what you need to climb most, if not all, of the routes in the area don't forget, there is a lot of "pilot skill" in placing proper protection, and when the gear pulls it is almost always the climber's fault! IME stocks a full line of active and passive protection by Black Diamond, Wild Country, DMM, Metolius and others. There is a wide selection of spring-loaded camming units, nuts and stoppers of all sizes and shapes. The small to medium tri-cams are essential for protecting that that unique Whitehorse slab feature, the solution-pocket.

Lastly, don't forget the greatest natural objective danger this area offers - BUGS. Be prepared - loose fitting long pants and long sleeve shirts with real bug dope are in order for most of the Spring. Bugs are particularly bad on overcast days with no wind. Also, bug danger declines once you're a pitch or two up the rock. Don't linger at the base. I've seen 500 bug bites on an aspirant leader who is so stressed and focused that they don't even notice the bites until the pitch is finished and the belay set.

As always the staff at IME is here to help and will give you free advice on cliff conditions - 603-356-7013.