March 8 , 2001

Hi folks,

Well I got back late last nite, 11PM, and here I am putting out the Report this morning. Hard to believe I was in Canmore, Alberta Canada yesterday morning. Due to the storm here I HAD <grin> to extend my trip an additional day. Terrible, aye? It was in the low 20's here last nite, but has now warmed up to mid-30's. I was out shoveling snow in my t-shirt at 10AM, so that gives you an idea of what it's like here.

While I have obviously not had a chance to personally visit all the local areas yet, this morning I have spoken to a number of folks who have been out a lot. The general consensus seems to be that there is still a lot of good ice left to climb. Man am I glad to hear it too. Last year I returned and there was nothing left after some rain. Unfortunately ice in the direct sun is taking a real beating, and in spite of cold temps for several days it is simply not recovering from all the climbers. The larger climbs are maintaining what they have though, and in places like Frankenstein most climbs are still IN and doable. Hard Rane, Machine, Dropline and Hobbit are all OUT. Dracula, Pegasus, Chia and Waterfall are all fat.

Last Friday George Hurley did Widow's Walk with Peg Immel. George climbed up the back and then out through the slot and over the top. He and Peg commented that it was solid 5+. I am awaiting some pictures from Peg to document the occasion! While it may still be there this weekend George suggests waiting for a cold and overcast day. Days like today would likely not be a good time to hang around under there. <grin>

Mt. Willard is a mixed bag, with Cinema generally OK, but Madness and Gully 2 1/2 out. Climbs in the direct sun will be quite thin. The upper East Face Slabs area is still OK. I did walk over to Cathedral and look over things there. Goofers looks too thin for most anyone. It was thin when I did it 2 weeks ago, and is thinner yet! The North End is still happening though severely beat out. Thresher is OK, but pouring water. Repentance and Remission both look OUT.

Don't forget that Huntington Ravine for a great "alpine ice experience." This time of year the crowds are generally low, days long and the ice good. In general you will be climbing a lot of snow, so be sure to check the avalanche conditions before you hike up. Even so, with the warm temps and the sunny days and the variable snow pack take your time and be very observant.

I've gotten several emails inquiring about my Canada trip. All I can say is that it was a very wonderful trip. I have a ton of pictures that I think you will find entertaining. I will post some on the NEClimbs.com site early next week. This was the first year I have not climbed with my old partner, Yuki Fujita, so I did a majority of the leading on the climbs I did with a variety of partners. I also did quite a bit of solo climbing. It was a great experience for me and certainly helped me rise to a new level. The peak of the trip was Polar Circus this past Monday. Unfortunately we did not finish, as we ran out of time, but it was a very special, and long, day of alpine and excellent waterfall ice climbing. I will also be putting together an "everything you need to know about a winter trip to the Icefields Parkway region of the Canadian Rockies" over the next few weeks, plus a pictorial "beta" on Polar Circus for the NEClimbs web site. I'll let you know when it is up. Here's one picture just as a tease:

No Longer Archived

This is Makoto Takeuchi leading the first pitch of the Weeping Wall Left. I did the other 2 pitches. The only thing comparable on this coast in the US is Lake Willoughby.

ANNOUNCEMENTS:

George Hurley, the subject of our featured Profile on www.NEClimbs.com, will make a rare appearance in Boston on March 14th for a slideshow on "Early Desert Climbing." The talk will be held at the AMC Headquarters on Joy Street in downtown Boston at 7:30 PM. George is an entertaining and engaging speaker, so make plans to attend. He is a very accessible person, so you should feel free to ask questions. And be sure to let him know you heard about it here.

Don't forget about the upcoming AAC Sixth Annual NE Section Dinner on the March 17th in the Boston area. This is your last chance to send in your reservations. For those needing more information contact AAC Section Chair Bill Atkinson at watkinson@compuserve.com.

Crux editor Bill Clack will be shooting a short fiction film involving three climbers on the side of a cliff. He's looking for experienced climbers to act in the film. Previous acting experience is not necessary. He's looking for both men and women. If you're interested contact him at wfclack@aol.com or call at (978) 562-0985.

Please tell others about The White Mountain Report. Feel free to email a copy to your friends and encourage them to subscribe, it's easy. Send an email with SUBSCRIBE as the subject to subscribe@neclimbs.com. You will get an immediate confirmation and the very next White Mountain Report.

Remember - climb hard, climb far, climb safe and whatever you do have great fun.

Cheers,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
al@neclimbs.com

"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing,
and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."
-- Ernest Hemingway

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