June 19, 2003

Hi folks,

I saw a meteorologist on the Weather Channel the other day commenting on how over the past 23 weeks New Hampshire has had some level of precipitation on 18 weekends. Sheesh! Well we've just had 4 glorious days of sunny and dry weather. Thank goodness, I was going to start growing mushrooms in my hair if this kept up.

In spite of these last few dry days, there is still water on the cliffs. Dogboy and I were out Wednesday morning on Children's Crusade and it surprised us both at how much was still dripping. Besides sneaky tendrils polluting key holds on every pitch, I could see water pouring down Eradicate and off the Echo Roof. It's also funny to see a dribble coming out of what appears to be solid granite. You gotta wonder just what's behind that rock. Makes me wonder if it's just a facade? <wry grin>

So, Jeff C and I have gotten back into into our 6:30 AM climbing excursions again this summer. For me with a family, and him with 3 dogs and a full time job, it's just about the only way either of us can get in the level of climbing that we want to be doing. Of course leading something hard at 7 AM can be a real challenge. Some mornings I just can't manage to put it together on easier stuff, but on others I am amazingly focused. It gives me new respect for Alpinists who are out there on killer stuff at 3 AM.

I must say that it's entertaining to be heading back to the parking lot at 9 AM and running into folks just getting there. Or more fun, pulling up at the Whitehorse lot and waking up the folks who are still crashed in their cars. Hey, you know you are living in the right place when you can get in 3 pitches of great climbing and still get in a full day of work. <grin>

Hazy Days Of Summer:
We're at that time of the season when the pine trees are releasing their pollen. While it's not as bad as a couple of years ago, when it actually looked like plumes of smoke coming off the tops of the trees, it is creating a pretty amazing haze in the air. On top of that everything is covered with a thick yellow film, even in the house. Thank goodness that most people aren't allergic to this pollen.

Mt. Everest Conservation Project Receives Funding - AAC Press Release:
The American Alpine Club (AAC) announced it will financially support a major new conservation initiative in Nepal’s Sagarmatha National Park, home of Mt. Everest. “Community-Based Conservation and Restoration of the Mt. Everest Alpine Zone” will address the increasing impact of trekkers and climbers on the high altitude alpine landscapes, the “land above the trees”. The project will be implemented in partnership with local Sherpa communities, Nepal’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation, and The Mountain Institute (TMI).

Launched during the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Everest, it will be one of the first projects of its kind that combines community driven management and action with the results of extensive scientific research. AAC and TMI expect the program to set a precedent for similar projects in affected alpine regions throughout the mountain world.

The five-year project will be based on solutions proposed and directed by local Sherpa communities. Activities will include strengthening community planning and implementation skills through training; the restoration of high impact areas; and increased education of both local people and tourists. Other examples include forming local Alpine User Groups; building porter shelters on trekking routes and stocking them with alternative fuels; constructing enclosures that protect the hillsides from overgrazing while promoting plant re-establishment; and establishing restrictions on the harvesting of juniper shrubs.

Bug Dope:
Over the past 2 weeks, conditions have moved from the moderate into the abysmal. If you don't cover all exposed areas with some sort of bug repellant or netting, you are going to be a very unhappy climber. Now I'm not one to normally push products, but when I find a new insect repellant that seems to work - well, I have to tell you folks. A week ago when Jeff and I were climbing we both sprayed up with bug stuff before we started up. I used my normal Cutter, he used a DEET-less aerosol called Herbal Armor. It was a bit breezy so the bugs weren't all that bad once we got up on the cliff, but when we got back to our packs 5 hours later they were absolutely brutal. Interestingly enough while they were making me bleed, they weren't bothering him at all. I went and got some the next day and have been very impressed with the performance.

Currently the only place I've found it locally is at International Mountain Equipment in North Conway. It's manufactured by All Terrain Company, based out of Sunape New Hampshire. You can find them on the web here, and there's a store list on the site.

OK enough of that. Get out there, climb safe and have fun.

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing,
and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."
-- Ernest Hemingway

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