August, 7, 2003

Hi folks,

With the weather being so funky the past 2 weeks, I haven't managed to get out as much as I'd like and therefore haven't gotten any really good pictures to use for the web site. After pleading for help, someone sent me some very interesting pictures. No matter what your level of involvement in the local climbing community, these should at least get you thinking...

The discussions have raged over the past couple of months regarding to bolt-or-not-to-bolt. Initially starting over the perceived egregiousness of 2 bolts placed on Black Pudding Gully last winter, it quickly widened to include the retrobolting of Arete-Z-Vous at Sundown this the Spring and other indiscretions. These discussions have, of course, spilled over into the local community. While I personally think that community involvement in working out a controversy such as this is a good thing, I am confident that the dialog will continue apace.

That said, the following series of pictures serve to illustrate the problems that are driving the issue, and the lengths that some are willing to go to "set things right." This took place after it was "discovered" that a 2-bolt anchor had been placed on Pendulum Route on Cathedral Ledge, immediately right of the bomber crack...

Pendulum Route crack
Crack and bolt 1
Crack and bolt 2
Crowbar
Whach, whack, whack
Tap, Tap, Tap
Tool kit
Pendulum Route with a gear anchor

I'll have more about this whole issue in next week's Report. It's certainly not one that's going to go away!

Here's YOUR Retirement Home:
I got an email about a house on the market in Yosemite West, only 13 miles from El Cap. Listed at $495k, it has 3 bedrooms , two baths and a two car garage. And it's just across street and two houses up from speed climber and Valley regular Hans Florine. If I didn't already have about the most ideal place I could ever want, I'd sure consider it. <grin> You can email Chandlee Harrell for more details at chandlee@yahoo.com if you're interested.

Pollock's Repeat First Whitehorse Climb:
Leland W. Pollock and an AMC party led the first complete ascent of Whitehorse Ledge on July 2, 1932. 72 years later his son, Leland Jr. , followed in his father's footsteps. In doing so he made his first rock climb ever! He was guided by his son, Joshua, and daughter-in-law, Leslie. Leland is 60 years old. Joshua and Leslie currently live in Golden, Colorado.

Red Rock's Update:
The Nevada governor and the state legislature thankfully have enacted legislation designating the area directly next to Red Rocks as a rural region. Hopefully this will put a stop to area developer Jim Rhodes attempt to put in a 5,500 house community in the Blue Diamond area. Thanks to everyone who lobbied to protect the Red Rocks Conservation Area. For more info please check out www.redrock.org.

Wilcox Slideshow:
New England mountaineer, Rick Wilcox, will be presenting a slideshow on August 16th at 7:30 PM at the North Conway Community Center in Schouler Park. The show is entitled the Best Photographs From 18 Expeditions. It includes slides from the New England Everest expedition, Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum II and much more. For more information please call International Mountain Equipment in North Conway at 603-356-8013.

Congress Takes Climbers Seriously at CPA Event - from the Access Fund:
The first ever Access Fund event in Washington DC came off in a very positive fashion. AF Executive Director Steve Matous presided and Keynote speaker Congressman Mark Udall D-CO (Boulder area mountains west) received the Access Fund Congressional Sharp end award for his contributions to keep climbing areas open and conserve the climbing environment. Congressional presence was strong with seven speakers including: Representative Nick Rahall D-WV, (New River Gorge); Mark Rey, Undersecretary for Natural Resources and the Environment (oversees US forest Service); Representative Jay Inslee D-WA (Seattle area); Representative James Gibbons R-NV (Cave Rock); and Representative George Radanovich R-CA (Yosemite). Also, the legislative assistant for Senator Larry Craig R-ID (City of Rocks, Sawtooth NF) spoke on his behalf.

CPA was intended to improve the connections between climbers and government, and galvanize climber activism in support of legislation and regulatory initiatives that benefit climbing in the United States. Also, it gave climbers and environmentalists an opportunity to respond to these initiatives. We believe this event was a great success. The speakers expressed their concerns and suggested solutions to problems associated with the use of public lands.

" CPA put the Access Fund on the map with regards to Congress and their staff, because we demonstrated that we could get Congress to speak on important public lands issues," said Policy Director Jason Keith, "It is really difficult to get that many members of Congress to go to a political event. This demonstrates that Congress takes climbing seriously, and we intend to capitalize on this new awareness of climbing related issues and continue to lobby in D.C. on behalf of American climbers."

New on NEClimbs:
We're adding a new Climber's Poll this week. Drop by on Friday and let us know how you're climbing this year?

OK enough of that. Get out there, climb safe and have fun.

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

"There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing,
and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games."
-- Ernest Hemingway

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