Several days ago I got a FB Messenger mailing inviting to to attend "...a meeting regarding bolting..." to be held Wednesday 8/31. Included was the exhortation "...to avoid advertising the meeting online so we can first have a manageable number of active climbers attend..." My immediate response was that I am unable to attend because I have a gig in Bethlehem on Wednesday nights starting at 5:30. I was then asked to "...write down any of your thoughts and have someone read them aloud at the meeting." Climbing is important to me, but only a part of my life these days. Closing in on 75, I find my music and family matters to be more important to me than whether someone has put in or removed a bolt from the cliff that I've lived next to and enjoyed for 26 years. 

Frankly I feel that not wanting a "meeting" like this publicized limits it to mostly people who have a pony in this race. That said, I feel that it’s all BS cause those involved are most likely going to do what they want, regardless of any possible supposed consensus like at previous meetings. I brought this meeting up to several local friends who are still active. Frankly most are unwilling to participate because they don’t want to to get dragged into a pissing contest. Especially considering the end result of the last meeting. I went to every single one of the previous summer-long meetings at Mineral Springs. I remember them well and wrote them up, along with the results for my blog. And everyone must surely remember what took place following the last bolting meeting. 

Heck, ask Kurt W who replaced the bolts on Thin Air. (Hint - it was him and me, I have pictures of it. And FWIW he was the one who "instigated" us doing it.) Those bolts were subsequently chopped by Bayard, following encouragement by Alain C and Sarah G! And remember, those bolts were there for 50 years! Or how about the crap Josh (?) gave me in public at an MRS meeting about replacing the manky bolts on Rapid Transit. Or the stink that went down about the cleaning and bolting that the Perez’s, George and a few others did to develop the then moss and lichen laded, but now very popular left side of Humphreys. I even had someone vociferously question my replacing the 1/4" button heads on Lady Slipper, soon after I climbed it with Synnott 15 years ago. And last, but not least, the bruh-ha-ha about adding the bolt and anchor to Ego Trip on request of the FA. [sigh] Supposedly because ethically "you can't add anything to a climb you did the FA on..." And lastly someone (or ones) decided that they are in charge of things on the cliff and can chop the bolts on the Wall Of The Hurley Morning light and steal the hangers! In spite of what anyone says, this little cliff was for all practical purposes NEVER used prior to George, Dave G, the Perez's, Jeff L and I cleaning and bolting it. Yup, an area that was never used for anything, is now VERY popular. OMG. Much like the Geriatric Walls at Humphreys. But of course there were bolts added and replaced on climbs in the middle of Humphreys by a crew from the EMS Climbing school, with no noise! Who was that, Dave K? Is this “projection”? Hardly... 

It was said that "Forming a consensus is not even a goal." And I really don't doubt that for a minute. After all what is consensus worth? After literally weeks of serious discussion (almost daily BTW) and after a consensus was finally achieved, it was thrown out the door within 24 hours. So I think any cynicism I have is quite justifiably warranted. And honestly I'm not even sure what this is all about. Maybe in response to someone bolting a link up line off of Heather - which has since been chopped. 

I figure that some folks feel they are superior, or have some higher ethics and are just gonna do what they are going to do.  All willy nilly...just like the Wild West! And IMNSHO, without any mandate. But without any organization in place like the Gunks or Rumney groups, ones with some actual authority, that's probably where it's going to stand. Too bad IMO. 

Al Hospers
August 31, 2022