The 1st Tier is 65 meters of solid grade 4 ice. We had already
decided that we would climb it in one pitch, the second simul-climbing
when the leader ran out of rope. I led it and about half-way up
I heard Dave talking to someone. It turned out to be a snow-ranger
and his friend who were checking on the state of the climb. Nice
work if you can get it!
As I got toward the end of the rope Dave started climbing and I
found myself wishing for a few more ice screws. The climbing wasn't
all that hard, but it certainly was mentally exciting with a 30'
run-out over crappy ice on no gear. A 70 meter rope would be nice
here! The belay was another good chain anchor, 20' right of the
next ice flow high up on the rock face. I didn't see it and built
a belay at the base of the pillar from 2 long screws and a manky
bolt. I was happy to have anything at this time though. The other
party decided not to follow us because there is no way to avoid
ice fall from the party above you on these 3 pitches.
Dave led the grade 4 pitch of the 2nd Tier, affectionately known
as the Ribbon Pitch. This pitch is actually wider than it looks
from below and is quite featured, but still a bit trickier than
it looks. The picture is of Dave halfway into the Ribbon
The guide describes a bolt belay on the left at about 50 meters,
but Dave didn't see it and ran out the full 60 meter rope length,
traversing right and belaying just below a steep headwall. This
took a lot longer than we expected. I followed and then led up about
40 meters of grade 4 ice to another nice set of chain anchors on
the right.
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