Polar Circus - 5

The 1st Tier is 65 meters of solid grade 4 ice. We had already decided that we would climb it in one pitch, the second simul-climbing when the leader ran out of rope. I led it and about half-way up I heard Dave talking to someone. It turned out to be a snow-ranger and his friend who were checking on the state of the climb. Nice work if you can get it!

As I got toward the end of the rope Dave started climbing and I found myself wishing for a few more ice screws. The climbing wasn't all that hard, but it certainly was mentally exciting with a 30' run-out over crappy ice on no gear. A 70 meter rope would be nice here! The belay was another good chain anchor, 20' right of the next ice flow high up on the rock face. I didn't see it and built a belay at the base of the pillar from 2 long screws and a manky bolt. I was happy to have anything at this time though. The other party decided not to follow us because there is no way to avoid ice fall from the party above you on these 3 pitches.

Dave led the grade 4 pitch of the 2nd Tier, affectionately known as the Ribbon Pitch. This pitch is actually wider than it looks from below and is quite featured, but still a bit trickier than it looks. The picture is of Dave halfway into the Ribbon

The guide describes a bolt belay on the left at about 50 meters, but Dave didn't see it and ran out the full 60 meter rope length, traversing right and belaying just below a steep headwall. This took a lot longer than we expected. I followed and then led up about 40 meters of grade 4 ice to another nice set of chain anchors on the right.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8