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Jockey Cap: Rock Routes grouped by Area, sorted by Name
Description: Jockey Cap is a very cool 160' high rock dome. On the left, west, side it has a beautiful sunny wall that is a popular top rope area. Many people also use it to traverse back and forth on very good holds, plus there is a near-perfect 5.6 finger/hand crack in its middle. The middle, south, side has some difficult overhanging climbs as well. There is also great bouldering on the left and right sides of the Cap. On the summit there is an interesting monument to the famous Polar explorer Admiral Peary, who lived in Fryeburg.
Directions: From the traffic light in Fryeburg drive northeast on Rt 302/5. Bear right on 302 and look for the Jockey Cap Motel on your left. Follow a trail between the motel and the small store and follow the trail right to the crag. The left side of the crag is to the West.
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Lattitude: = 44.020104, Longitude = -70.962734
Area Name Grade
south face Beluza 5.11b
south face Great White 5.12b
south face Hammerhead 5.12
south face Mako Roof 5.11
south face Red Heads 5.11c
west wall The Grand Traverse 5.6
west wall: center Standard Route Crack 5.6
west wall: front side The Barge 5.8
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