OK OK OK - I stand a bit corrected. After the meltdown we went through and in spite of the longer days and the stronger March sun - some the ice in some places has kind-of come back. In fact to the extent conditions looks a bit like they often do in the very early season.
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Hassig's Direct -
WI 5 M5
Climb up mixed rock and ice directly off the belay. Climb the rock, reasonable small cams and nuts, past 2 fixed pins. Make a tricky rock move to a stance just below the ice. Climb the overhanging runnel of ice to a good screw belay below a short curtain. Continue up and left to the tree belay at the last pitch of the Dike.
There are two kinds of people who climb mountains. Those whose hearts sing when they are in the mountains and all the rest.
—Rheinhold Messner
BEWARE! That ice above the North End is just waiting to come down.
Unicorn, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 1, 2026
Nope sorry, unfortunately this isn't an April Fools Day Report! Clearly the past few days of warm temps and then rain have been the death knell of the 2025-26 ice season! 46 degrees this morning all through in the Notch...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Another Day At Ducks Head (a.k.a. Trollville)
Duck's Head (Trollville) is a great place to toprope or to get your mixed climbing skills in order. This day was a particularly great time...plus we ran into a couple of mixed-masters and got to watch them at work!
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.