So here we are on April 9th and the lower elevation ice season is done. I mean sure, somebody will hold me to task and say the managed to scratch up something. I've mentioned it before that BITD George and I used to climb Dracula on April 15. But I think those daze are gone. I've talked to several guide friends and it's D.O.N.E. Just head up to The Ravines for some alpine fun.
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Pegasus -
WI 3
Pegasus is often climbed in two short pitches, but with 60-meter ropes can easily be done in one. In the early and late season the top-out is often thin with running water in the middle & right. On occasion a free-standing column comes in on the left side (5). Several variations often present themselves on the right, just left of the Hobbit gully.
BEWARE! That ice above the North End is just waiting to come down.
Unicorn, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 9, 2026
This is the last Ice Report of the 2025/2026 season. It's sure been a good one. I hope you've found this useful and have had a good one. Thanks for your support.
Huntington Ravine
many options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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The days of 36 frames in a film roll and no surety that you will actually get a good image are long gone. Digital cameras are all the rage, and even cell phone cameras can do a great job. Here's some tips on picking a good digital camera, if you decided to go in that direction.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
