NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
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The White Mountain Report: Apr 16th, 2026
So I had my fried egg and sausage breakfast Boissant sandwich at Bagels+ and then drove over to the North End of Cathedral this morning. I was a bit surprised to see that much of the ice that had slid down from the slab several days ago was still there at the bottom! This, in spite of a bunch of 60+ degree days, followed by some pretty amazing torrential rains over the past few daze. I normally don't put videos directly on the NEClimbs.com web site, but I thought you might find these interesting. The rain one is from Tuesday and the ice from Thursday.
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AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
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Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
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White Mountain Route Database and Guide
milkPail
Route of the Moment

Milk Pail -  WI 4 IV

Climb a 35' pillar, then low angle ice for 50' to trees. On the first ascent it was late in the season and lots of the ice had melted. The ice was like the milk foam you get when you milk cows by hand.

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Quotes From the Ledge:
All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.
—Dougal McDonald
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BEWARE! That ice above the North End is just waiting to come down.
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Unicorn, Cathedral Ledge
BEWARE! That ice above the North End is just waiting to come down.
Unicorn, Cathedral Ledge
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One Of Our Articles: Getting Your (Ice) Rack Together
Ice racks are personal, like fine cars and wives. Every climber's rack is different, and putting one together can be as easy or as complicated as you like. Here's a few tips on putting one together that will do most of what you'll need here in New England.
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