I don't have a lot to say right now other than "here we go, hang on"... By that I mean we are headed for the semi annual warmup and thaw that we almost always get in December. It's a bit early this year, but it really does always happen. On the good side we need the water in the system, PLUS, it is supposed to be chilling down right afterward. So please just get your Xmas shopping done, have an adult beverage, hug your loved ones, be nice and STAY TUNED.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Great Madness -
WI 5 II
There aren't that many grade 5 climbs in the area and this is one of them. While often sun baked, Great Madness is a wonderful climb when in good conditions.
Instead of sport climbing I go bouldering. It's pure, and basically impossible to cheat. Bolts can't be used to manipulate the experience. Sure, I sometimes take a thicker crash pad but I still have to take the fall.
—Johnny Blitz
Mid December climbers on Standard Route at Frankenstein
Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 19, 2025
Friday December 19 at 3:40 - it's 52 degrees and raining1 Almost all of the snow is already off my roof. It's supposed to go below freezing overnight, but get back above 32 during Saturday. You may want to seriously consider giving things a few days to recover. Just sayin...
Huntington Ravine
OK
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
IN
Dracula
IN, mostly
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
S U B S C R I B E to the White Mountain Report
The White Mountain Report is a weekly email newsletter that
provides you with the most up to date information about rock and ice climbing
in New England. To get it delivered to your mailbox every Thursday all you have
to do is SUBSCRIBE. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you
a dime!
One Of Our Articles: Getting Your (Ice) Rack Together
Ice racks are personal, like fine cars and wives. Every climber's rack is different, and putting one together can be as easy or as complicated as you like. Here's a few tips on putting one together that will do most of what you'll need here in New England.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.