The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. Even after 20 years it continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technicalclinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
January 31st -February 2nd in North Conway, NH.
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So I snuck away from the kitchen before dinner, and I think that the first order of business is to wish everyone a very Happy Thanksgiving. I hope that all of you are enjoying yourselves with your family and good friends. This is the time of the year when I get to savor all the sights and smells that make this holiday such a very special one. I hope that each of you are able to do the same.
A headlamp is a standard part of every climber's gear; I don't think I know a single one who doesn't keep a headlamp in their pack. I have a number of older ones laying around in the basement, some dating back at least 20 years, and they still work. The questions is, are they worth replacing with one of the new super-duper headlamps like the Petzl NAO?
Hugo's Horror Revisited -
Because Hugo's Horror original line has a vague or unspecified history and route description Mike Lee, after discussing the line with Chris Ellms and with his encouragement, established the current line in 2008, calling it Hugo's Horror Revisited. Mike climbed the line with his brother Jim (who had never climbed before) using Webster's description as a general guide line, but choosing his line to incorporate the best climbing on this section of Mt. Willard slab. On this ascent, which was done ground up, he came across an old rotten piton on the second pitch which came out in his hand. He placed a bolt in this vicinity. There is also down and right (about 10') from the third bolt belay an old Leeper hanger and stud. Mike had 15 bolts with him to establish the belays and running protection. As Mike says, "I wanted to keep the route in character with the other routes on the cliff. To keep it a bit spicy, to keep the old schoolers happy. 5.6 climb with a 5.8 head."
Thanks to Punx, Slink and SmartPig (a.k.a. Jamie Cunningham) for this information.
There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.
Mark Synnott coming up the middle section of The Cleft.
Mt Willard, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 3, 2013
Was at Frankenstein this morning with IMCS owner Brad White. With temps in the low 40's, needless to say everything was pouring water. We climbed the first pitch of Standard Route on the right side. That was good but the middle had large holes with lots of water pouring out PLUS there was ice coming off the upper fangs. With warm weather in the predictions for the next few days it may be best to not count on lower elevation climbing until it gets cold again. That said, with all the water in the system right now we should be in great shape as soon as the temps do drop.
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.