Petzl has announced a recall of certain batches of NOMIC (U021AA00) and ERGONOMIC (U022AA00) ice axes due to a risk of breakage at the handle that could cause the climber to fall. The Petzl warning advises climbers to stop using the affected ice axes immediately and contact its customer service department for a handle replacement. Please refer to the English version official recall information for full details. Includes: technical details, products impacted, how to submit a recall and FAQs.
Say it ain't so Joe, PLEASE! It has assuredly been warm this week, now it's very foggy and drizzling. What can I say? It sure feels a lot like it's the end of the 25/26 ice season, at least in the lower elevations. Of course the warm up won't last, but it has been wonderful.
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Dracula -
WI 4
If you have 60 meter ropes you can climb any of the variations in a single pitch. The left side (4+) is easier than the right, with a fixed pin about 30' up after the initial bulge. You can belay on a ledge on the left before the final difficulties if desired. Stemming is a useful skill. The right side (4/5) features a significantly more difficult start, often with minimal protection. The last 30-40' affords more stemming.
—Doug Scott after encountering two climbers on Denali suffering from exposure
RIP George Hurley. 91 years young, a truly good soul.
Here @ 80, leading CCK (5.7+), October 2015.
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2026
The past 3 warm days, Tuesday upper 60's in Crawford Notch, has really decimated the ice. Almost everything has come down on Cathedral Ledge, with even the top of Goofers gone! I have been hearing lots of crashing during the day and at night. EVEN tho my house is closed up! The right side of Whitehorse has also sloughed. I was riding my in Crawford Notch Tuesday afternoon and heard big crashes from the Amphitheater. It's going to get cold again, but the climbs that are gone will. likely not form again.
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
possible
Dracula
possible
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
