GO PATS!!!! Starting tomorrow, Thursday, the 2026 ICE FEST WEEKEND is upon us, and that's the main reason for this early Report. Kudos to Paul, Lisa, Rick, Brady and the whole IME/IMCS crew for keeping the stoke alive. Three days of warmish daytime temps, but no rain (!), should really help. And based on the ice conditions I've seen so far, this could be one of the best.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Black Pudding Gully -
WI 4+ II
A total classic and local test-piece. Because it is in the shade it stays in until late in the season. The column is often candled and detached from the rock. In addition if it is a really cold day the ice can be rock-hard.
All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.
—Dougal McDonald
In case you weren't really believing that there is a train running!
Frankenstein trestle, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 4, 2026
Every picture tells a story... There's lots of ice out there and there will be lots of climbers out there this weekend as well. Enjoy...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
been done
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
