And we have yet another roller coaster ride of weather this week folks! On Tuesday night we had snowy-slush and freezing rain, turning into a sunny warm day on Wednesday with temps in the mid to upper 40's, and today - Thursday - it's cloudy and dreary with temps in the mid-40's again. It's the classic January thaw! It would be great if we had a week where the focus wasn't on the weather, right?
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. Even after over 21 years it continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technicalclinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
February 3-5 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
Petzl Connect Adjust
Petzl has come out with a new device for anchor attachment and to extend a rappel device for rappelling. Does it really make things easier, or is it just another finicky device that you’ll check out and then rarely use?
This route has an undeserved bad reputation.The crux moves are very nice and well protected. Above that the climbing is easy, but runout. However if you feel uncomfortable you can clip a bolt or pin and make things very safe.
If you can bang a pin in with your ice axe without anyone yelling at you and you packed the whiskey 'cause it is the only thing that won't freeze, you're probably alpine climbing.
Silas Rossi on the 4th ascent of the rarely climbed mega-classic Valhalla.
Photo by Wade Spinner
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 13, 2017
Temps have been dropping all day Friday. It went from 44 at 5 AM, to 28 at 2:15 PM! The cold and the water we have in the system now should really stabilize things, assuredly allowing the ice to build again. In a way this is similar to March conditions where the warm days and chilly nights simply serve to fatten things up.
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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