NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:59a on 02/24/17 - Temperature: 36.8 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 36.8 F - Barometric pressure: 29.753 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 69 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
The Home of New England Climbing
The White Mountain Report: Feb 23rd, 2017
I hate to have to keep talking about the weather, but there is no choice. The name of the game right now is hoping that things chill. Unfortunately that simply doesn't seem to be in the cards right now. In spite of 30" of snow over a week span last week, we've also gone through close to 2 weeks of well above average temps. This has culminated with today reaching a sunny 60 here in the Valley!!!
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Our Current Review
Petzl Connect Adjust
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Petzl has come out with a new device for anchor attachment and to extend a rappel device for rappelling. Does it really make things easier, or is it just another finicky device that youll check out and then rarely use?
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White Mountain Route Database and Guide
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Route of the Moment

Sleeping Beauty -  5.10d

An interesting start with a superb finger crack to finish. The key is, don't stop! You can do this in a single pitch with double ropes.

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Rattle Can
Even the Rain
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Silent Treatment
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Our Routes Database currently contains
663 rock routes from 43 areas
123 ice routes from 16 areas.
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Quotes From the Ledge:
Anyone who climbs walls is certifiably insane.
—Russ "The Fish" Walling
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine ExperiencesJulbo: The world needs your visionMooney Mountain GuidesInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolNew England Mountain Guides
Amazingly climbing ice in 50 degree temps in late February.
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Elephant Head, Crawford Notch
Amazingly climbing ice in 50 degree temps in late February.
Elephant Head, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 23, 2017
The warmup has really hit us hard everywhere but in the higher elevations. Anywhere in the direct sun is dam close to toast right now. The Amphitheater at Frankenstein is off the radar, or certainly should be. You can probably do the Pegasus rock finish, but that's all. And I would be VERY careful walking under anything over in that area. As of today, Thursday Feb 23, Standard Route still looks OK. I also spotted someone climbing on Waterfall, tho I'm sure that the normally funky top outs are worse. The bottom of Dropline fell down, but Dracula still looks good. I was pleased to see that Willies still looks good. The snow has compacted and I saw what looked to be blue ice. The left side of Willard is basically gone, but Hitchcock, The Cleft, Left Hand Wrench, the far right slab and Elephant Head are still climbable. Other than the Barking Dog and North End I would write off Cathedral Ledge. I know people are going to ask about Repentance, etc and frankly I would caution away from it. In fact anything that is supposed to be attached to rock is suspect. Not to mention the fact that there is a LOT of stuff hanging around above you on Cathedral at this time.
Huntington Ravine good  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route still OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE
Latest Article: Making A V-Thread
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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