The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. Even after 20 years it continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technicalclinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
January 31st -February 2nd in North Conway, NH.
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Here we are in early December and we've already gone through a couple of rounds of ice, no ice. Of course that's not at all unusual for a New England winter, but frustrating for us ice climbers. And since there hasn't been much snow to speak of, the skiers are a little on the annoyed side as well. On the plus side there actually has been stuff to climb, at least if you've been able to get out and grab it when it's been available. Fortunately we even had one round of good stuff over last weekend, which is a real rarity considering everything.
A headlamp is a standard part of every climber's gear; I don't think I know a single one who doesn't keep a headlamp in their pack. I have a number of older ones laying around in the basement, some dating back at least 20 years, and they still work. The questions is, are they worth replacing with one of the new super-duper headlamps like the Petzl NAO?
Hanging Garden Area -
various grades
This area has a variety of routes that cover the gamut of hard vertical ice to overhanging to full-on mixed climbing. Definitely a place to get a pump. Many of these climbs are toproped, but try not to beat them to death, there ARE folks who can lead these things!
This is a group of people I used to go walking with. (long pause) That's me on the left. (even longer pause) On the right is the woman I married, Audrey. (very long pause, speaker looks at shoes) Which just goes to show that danger lurks where you least expect it.
—Don Whillans commenting on a B&W slide showing a group of smiling hikers
Mark Synnott coming up the middle section of The Cleft.
Mt Willard, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 6, 2013
Friday is yet another warm and drizzly day, as were Wednesday and Thursday. Based on Thursday's observations, we did take a hit this week but many things were still hanging tough. At this point, Friday morning, I can't be sure what's going on in the Notches or on Mt Washington. It is supposed to get colder starting Friday night, and that should set things up. However, I am not sure how much things will have been impacted by this warm spell. If you go out looking for ice to climb, be careful as everything is probably suspect now. I am going to mark everything as OUT until we have a day of cold as I don't believe that what is left is safe to climb!
Huntington Ravine
reforming
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Latest Article: Making A V-Thread
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
