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It’s always nice to get away in the winter for a bit, even if just for a short break. As is my usual thing I spent the middle week of January in Los Angeles. There is a huge music trade show in Anaheim, my sister lives in Redondo Beach, I always rent a mountain bike and ride for a day or two in the Topanga Canyon area and I have a ton of friends in the music biz that live in the area. I have a hard time fitting everything into a week, but it’s a gas nonetheless. I always say that I’m going to go climbing, but I never seem to manage it.
The new X4 Camelots are BD's latest addition to their 4-camming device collection. They claim that they are great for everything from big-wall to your basic day-to-day trad climb. So do they hold up to expectations, can they be a replacement for the classic C4's, and how do they compare to the ever popular C3's?
Black Dike -
WI 5 M3 IV
A true classic of the genera. While it's lost a bit of its mystique, it can still be a very serious undertaking. As with all alpine routes in a good year it can be fat and moderate grade 4, but in lean and cold conditions it deserves every bit of the Grade 5 M3 grade. There have been several instances of climbers being avalanched and injured on the approach so be aware of the snow conditions.
Apart from the loomingly obvious Cascade Icefall, nothing was done until the full potential of modern ice climbing equipment was realized.
—Bugs McKeith
Kel Rossiter of Adventure Spirit Guides on Glass Menagerie
Lake Willoughby, VT
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 29, 2015
The ice is in great shape right now, with good climbing almost everywhere you look. A few areas like the Fang wall aren’t as good as they were a couple of weeks ago, but overall we’re in great shape. Get out there and enjoy yourselves…
Huntington Ravine
many options...
Repentance
upper good, lower not so much
Standard Route
good
Dracula
good
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Latest Article: Making A V-Thread
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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