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There will be a major race at Cannon this weekend with all the parking areas used by climbers being used by the ski area with shuttles running! This race is big enough that the lodge and most of the mountain will be closed to the public those 3 days.Here are links for more info:
I woke up this morning at 6 AM to bright sunlight and an almost balmy 34 degrees and by 8:30 it was almost 40! That’s an amazing change from what we’ve been experiencing for the past several months, and based on the weather predictions not at all what I expected. When I went to bed at 11 last night there was a huge green blob headed our way and I expected it to be raining this AM. Fortunately that was not the case, tho obviously things are starting to change, even as I write. So far we’ve managed to dodge the bullet, with regards to Spring thaws, but I’m not so sure that will be the case from here on out. PS - at 12:15 it’s 48 degrees folks!!!!
The new X4 Camelots are BD's latest addition to their 4-camming device collection. They claim that they are great for everything from big-wall to your basic day-to-day trad climb. So do they hold up to expectations, can they be a replacement for the classic C4's, and how do they compare to the ever popular C3's?
If you like thin face climbing, you'll like this one. Reasonable protection and a confounding crux make for a nice way to get up to the chain anchor on the right of the Thin Air traverse,
Climbing may be hard, but it's easier than growing up.
George Hurley showing us all how Grade 5 ice is done!
Widow's Walk, Frankenstein Cliff
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 26, 2015
There is still ice to climb in many places right now, but with the warm temps and rain coming that’s going to change quickly over the next week. I would expect that the Frankenstein Amphitheater will become problematic pretty soon. Even as big and fat as Standard Route is, it is in the full sun all day so it’s getting beat up. Climbs like Dracula, the North End of Cathedral, Lost In The Forest, Upper Hitchcock and various things in the shade will last longer of course. We’re moving into the best time for climbing on Mt Washington for the next 3-4 weeks. That said, it’s time to think about rock season folks.
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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