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This is a short Report because,…well because it’s Thanksgiving. And while I did get out to take some pix and go for a short hike, I’ve spent most of the day with my wife and son, and now I want to drink some wine and watch Carolina beat up on the Cowboys. So happy Thanksgiving to you all. I have many things to be thankful for; my family, my music and the fact that I live up here in the White Mountain Valley, enjoying all the things that I do. I am sure you have your own and I hope you take this time to reflect on them.
The new X4 Camelots are BD's latest addition to their 4-camming device collection. They claim that they are great for everything from big-wall to your basic day-to-day trad climb. So do they hold up to expectations, can they be a replacement for the classic C4's, and how do they compare to the ever popular C3's?
The Unicorn -
When it comes in, a steep and strenuous effort. In 2004 it was done many times as a full length route starting at a runnel right of Child's Play and continuing all the way to the top of the cliff.
Ice conditions were much better than anyone expected on 11/24/2015!
Mike Pelchat in Tuckerman Ravine
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 29, 2015
Ben Maxwell was in Tucks on Sunday and said there were a couple of reasonable lines.. I got an email from fellow guide Matt Shove who was up in Huntington Saturday. He climbed rock and said that in his opinion the ice on the mountain "has been set back to Zero!" and not 5 minutes later I saw a post her on FB by Ben Maxwell and Joe Cormier saying that they climbed 3 pitches of ice in Tucks Saturday. Needless to say that was ribbons of ice, in-between dirt and grass, but apparently it WAS ice! And then Paul McCoy posted 2 pix of what looked surprisingly like ice somewhere on the mountain. So, I have to assume that while there IS ice to be climbed, it's still fairly minimal. So there you have it...
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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