| The Valley has been smokey for the past couple of days from the Forest Service burn going on up near the Moats, not to mention from the Canadian fires out west and now even in Nova Scotia! Couple that with close to 90 degree temps and it's a bit unpleasant. With everything as dry as it's been, it's also a bit nerve-racking for those of us over here on the West Side of the Valley. For now it seems to be under control. Fingers X-ed!!! |
| Sidecountry: John Branch |
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| Tales of death and life from the back country of sports. |
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Route of the Moment
Silent Treatment -
5.6
Master climber George Hurley and long-time guide and first ascentionist is known for his unlikely adventure climbs. He was 78 years old when he found this line. As is almost always the case, he didn't clean or pre-inspect the route before he led it, preferring to just start up and see where it went. In this case there was surprising gear in the first 40', but no gear for the final headwall so he traversed a bit right to place a piece in the Three Brushes crack. When Al followed he did a lot of cleaning, uncovering additional placements and stances.
George and Al discussed that there should be a bolt or two in the headwall so the climb could take the most obvious and direct like, but they didn't have a drill at the time. A week or so later Al and Joe and Judy Perez went over and added the necessary bolts. |
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Checkout the 5 Latest Additions:
The Staircase
Circling Scavengers
Vultures' Express
Klettersteig Ridge
The Booklet Left
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Our Routes Database currently contains
671 rock
routes from 40 areas
123 ice
routes from 12 areas.
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| Being out on lead is like having a loaded gun pointed at your head all day ! |
| —Russ "The Fish" Walling |
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A party finishing up a unusually chilly morning outing in mid-May.
Thin Air, Cathedral ledge |
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V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world. |
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