NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
The White Mountain Report: Mar 22nd, 2024
Well the weather outside is truly FRIGHTFUL! A bit over 20 degrees and pretty continual winds ranging from 20, up to 35+. The lights were flickering all morning, the power went out and then came back on after about 90 minutes! About a week ago we had the power go off for about 5 hours, but it wasn't this cold. Looks as if March is going OUT like the proverbial lion! YIKES
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Our Current Review
INNER RANGES An Anthology of Mountain Thoughts and Mountain People:
Geoff Powter
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Is climbing literature in a phase of re-invention after the decades of expedition books?
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White Mountain Route Database and Guide
smear
Route of the Moment

Smear -  WI 3

You can climb Smear in two short pitches, belaying from a tree on the left side about 1/2 way up. It is often climbed in a more direct and difficult single long pitch with 60 meter ropes.

About 50' right of the main flow is a curtain(or sometimes a pillar) called Double Barrell (4+). You can climb this up and left to the main column, winding through bushes, and eventually finishing on the upper slabs.

75' right of the main climb is an unnamed runnel in a corner. Climb the initial thin curtain to a ledge. Climb the runnel (rock gear useful) up and left to the bushes, finishing on the upper slabs. (4+)

Checkout the 5 Latest Additions:
The Staircase
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Quotes From the Ledge:
If you want to climb it badly enough, you will. So... why bother ?
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Just when you think it's over, a few cold days can firm things up again!
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Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine
Just when you think it's over, a few cold days can firm things up again!
Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 24, 2024
It's all over for 2023/2024.
Huntington Ravine OUT  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE
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One Of Our Articles: Another Day At Ducks Head (a.k.a. Trollville)
Duck's Head (Trollville) is a great place to toprope or to get your mixed climbing skills in order. This day was a particularly great time...plus we ran into a couple of mixed-masters and got to watch them at work!
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