I'd like to be here saying that we've got a 5 star season and that stuff has formed that almost never comes in and that it's the best season in many years. However, while things aren't terrible, they aren't totally great either. Stuff that doesn't get a whole lot of sun, like Standard Route and Dracula, are pretty good, or maybe even great. However, stuff that gets sun, like the Frankenstein Amphitheater, is mediocre at best. Pick your climbs carefully grasshopper...
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. Even after over 21 years it continues to provide a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technicalclinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
February 3-5 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
Petzl Connect Adjust
Petzl has come out with a new device for anchor attachment and to extend a rappel device for rappelling. Does it really make things easier, or is it just another finicky device that you’ll check out and then rarely use?
Sometimes the ice on Fafnir borders on the phantasmagorical!
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 19, 2017
It's yet another mild day here in the Valley at 39 degrees, and even up in Crawford Notch where it was 34! The ice is OK in some places, but not overall good yet. For instance the Frankenstein Amphitheater is marginal, while Standard and Dracula are great. We need several days of seriously cold temps for things to settle in, Top outs on many climbs are poor, so protect where you can!
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
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