NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Oscar (SW face) / Vultures' Express (5.7)
Directions:  This route begins about 100' to the left of Mount Oscar Direct, at a thin seam through an overlap.
Description: It is named for the Turkey Vultures that were circling when the route was being bolted.
    Pitch 1: Climb over the overlap, then up the dark slab above. At a small ledge, traverse right to lighter colored rock, then up a steep, clean bulge (bolt, 5.7) to a two bolt anchor at a small tree ledge. (110', 5.7)

    Variation: Continue straight up past the small ledge to a two bolt anchor. This pitch can be top-roped with a 60 meter rope. (90', 5.6)

    Variation 2: About 20 feet to the right is an easier, more direct route to the white streak. Climb the stepped slab to a small tree ledge. Continue up, joining the normal first pitch below the clean white streak, climbing it to the belay.

    Pitch 2: Traverse right and up through several overlaps, to a left facing corner. Climb the corner, then head up and right, past a few more overlaps to a two-bolt anchor. (110', 5.7)

    Variation: From the belay, climb straight up the. Continue up and right, past overlaps and bolts to the anchor. (110', 5.6)

Gear: Standard Rack
Descent: From the top of the route, you can traverse right to join the last, fourth class pitch of the climbs on the main face, scramble straight up to the summit and descent trail, or rappel the route.


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