NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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March 19, 2026

Hi Folks,

Oh Boy... How do I make predictions about the season? I guess all I can really do is to make observations and suggestions. After all, the observations I make today, are likely NOT the ones I would make tomorrow. Or the day after. [wry grin + sigh]

And of course it's almost assuredly completely and totally different from local to local, right? I can't find a sharable video, but I've seen pictures of the Sherbie from a few days ago showing it to be a virtual river. And then another video of Tuckerman by Andrew Drummond, it just being a literal sheet of ice! I have also heard that the Inferno race that had been planned for this weekend has been rescheduled from March 21st to April 11th, due to treacherous conditions! So there ya go. As I mentioned in my video Report, be sure to put on those crampons at the base of the fan. Don't wait till you're halfway up to Pinnacle and realize just how slick things are. Been there, done that!

WORD

FINAL REMINDER - PETZL NOMIC & ERGONOMIC RECALL:
I have an early pair of ERGONOMIC's that I've been very happy with and fortunately they are fine. That said, I do know folks that have the ones that are problematic. So do be sure to check your tools. You most certainly don't want to have a problem. As Petzl says;

"The failure occurs with no warning signs or possibility of prior detection."

Petzl has announced a recall of certain batches of NOMIC (U021AA00) and ERGONOMIC (U022AA00) ice axes due to a risk of breakage at the handle that could cause the climber to fall. The Petzl warning advises climbers to stop using the affected ice axes immediately and contact its customer service department for a handle replacement. Please refer to the English version official recall information for full details. Includes: technical details, products impacted, how to submit a recall and FAQs.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/safety-alerts/2026-2-23/Recall-of-NOMIC-(U021AA00)-and-ERGONOMIC-(U022AA00)-ice-axes
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 19, 2026
My feeling is that now is the time to either hit the gym, or head up to the Ravines. [sigh] That's my take on things and I'm sticking to it.
Huntington Ravine numerous options, caution advised  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route possible Click to see route picture.
Dracula possible Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/Frankenstein_Amphitheater.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/Frankenstein_RightSide.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260319/LHMW.jpg

MT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY VALLEY WEATHER:
A pair of Clippers will traverse the region; one on Thursday and another on Friday. The Clipper passing on Thursday will be centered to our north and is expected to weaken as it tracks east. The passing disturbance will provide clouds, which will gradually thicken and lower during the day. A few flurries or light snow showers are expected as the low passes. Accumulations, if any, will be light and mostly on higher terrain or in the northern parts of the state. Overnight, the low shifts offshore as another Clipper approaches from the west. A weak ridge will allow for a bit of clearing on Friday morning, but any clearing will be short-lived as the next low tracks across the region. The secondary low appears a bit more organized and is expected to bring rain and snow during the day, then taper to snow overnight, with only minimal amounts expected. Winds will be increasing on Thursday. Winds will briefly decrease on Friday as the center of the low passes overhead. As the low shifts east, winds will once again boost. Temperatures will start off cold on Thursday, but are expected to gradually rebound toward seasonal averages by the afternoon and continue to do so throughout Friday.

https://mountwashington.org/weather/regional-weather/mount-washington-valley-weather/
https://www.rainwise.net/weather/wdc

MW AVALANCHE CENTER: LOW
A firm and refrozen snowpack creates hazardous slide-for-life conditions today on all steep snow-covered surfaces. Bring mountaineering tools like crampons, an ice axe, and a helmet, as well as the skills to use them. Sure footwork will be your best defense to prevent a fall, as self-arrest may be difficult on firm, steep surfaces.

https://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/

MUSICAL NOTES:
Off this weekend. Monday the trio will be at the Taylor Community in Laconia and then back at Big Day on the 28th from 5-8.

If you are at all interested in what else is coming up with me musically, you can always see my schedule here: http://www.alhospers.com/?PageName=2

VALLEY CYCLING:
I haven't been out this week, but my understanding is that in many places things are better than you might expect. The best riding is assuredly early morning or at night. And yes, folks do ride at night. Just sayin'.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Here I was working away and always this mumbling and bitching from below, and finally the shocking ejaculation "This is a lot of shit." From then on I felt I was battling two opponents, the wall and Peterson.
Royal Robbins, Tis-sa-ack
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