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So here we are on April 9th and the lower elevation ice season is done. I mean sure, somebody will hold me to task and say the managed to scratch up something. I've mentioned it before that BITD George and I used to climb Dracula on April 15. But I think those daze are gone. I've talked to several guide friends and it's D.O.N.E. Just head up to The Ravines for some alpine fun.
The rock season is starting to ramp up in places like Humphreys and the South Buttress of Whitehorse. I hate to be a nervous-nellie, but you still want to still be aware of what's above you wherever you are climbing right now. Even at Humphreys, which is really sunny! Right around this time several years ago, the Perez's and I went to climb at the Geriatric Walls on a warm sunny morning. Everything was clear when we walked in. But on the way out in early afternoon we spotted a bunch of ice on the ground right around Robinson Crusoe! And then at similar time of year a good friend was on Short Order when ice came out of the dark upper corners and injured his hand! I still see ice up above the Whitehorse slabs and more up near the top of Cathedral. You can get a good view of the top of Whitehorse from the Schartner strawberry fields. Check it out...
RUMNEY UPDATE:
Forest Service staff have documented a pair of actively nesting peregrine falcons on the Main Cliff of the Rumney Rocks Climbing Area. In order to protect the birds and climbers, parts of Main Cliff and Main Cliff Right will be closed until August 1. This closure only pertains to second pitches/extensions from "Via Ferrata" through "Free Bird" (including both of those routes).
By August 1, we expect chicks to have fledged (i.e., left the nest on their own) and the closure will be lifted. Until then, the birds need plenty of space. They can also be very territorial during this time period and may even attack climbers who get too close to their nest. Therefore, this short-term closure is important to protect both the birds and people.
We thank the climbing community, New Hampshire Audubon, and the New Hampshire Fish and Game Department for continuing to work together to protect this very important peregrine falcon nest site!
FARLEY LEDGE CLOSED:
From the Western Mass Climbers Association - Farley Ledge is temporarily CLOSED. One of the private land owners has asked that no one trespass or climb on their property. Since it is not possible to access any of the climbing from the wmcc parking lot without crossing their land, we are temporarily closing our lot.
We understand that this is very sudden and last minute and assure you we are doing the best we can to communicate clearly to climbers and follow the land owners wishes. We will have more updates soon. Please share and thank you for your cooperation as we are working this out.
MWV CLIMBERS COOP UPDATE - press release:
A couple weeks ago, we signed a lease on a building in Conway and the buildout will begin as soon as the landlord finishes up with some upgrades. The location is at the Homegrown Lumber facility off Rt 302, just east of the intersection with Eastman Rd. There will be room for bouldering terrain, training boards, general fitness equipment, and some general purpose space for hanging out or small events.
We are very excited to move on this opportunity, but we can’t do it alone! We the Board do not have the collective time, talent, nor resources to make this happen, so please help us out.
Ways you can contribute:
* The Board of Directors needs a new Treasurer. Are you diligent, detail oriented and savvy with finances? Email us with your intent to join us.
* If you want to help with administrative tasks such as fund-raising, organizing volunteers, communications, or marketing, we could use some expertise.
* Once the buildout begins, we’ll need assistance with engineering, construction of all sorts, and general labor.
* To get on our list of volunteers for the above or in general, sign up here, please.
* Don’t have time to help out in person? We will need to keep our finances up to pay for all this work and materials until we can generate operational revenue.
This is the last Ice Report of the 2025/2026 season. It's sure been a good one. I hope you've found this useful and have had a good one. Thanks for your support.
Huntington Ravine
many options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
INSTANT ICE REPORT:
This will be the last Ice Report of the 2025/2026 season. [SNIF] It's sure been a good one. I hope you've found this useful and have had a good one. Thanks for your support.
MT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY VALLEY WEATHER:
High pressure shifts further offshore Thursday, with temperatures rising above seasonal averages through Friday before a cold front swings through Friday evening.
Dry and clear conditions persist through the day Thursday, with return flow around exiting high pressure allowing for temperatures to climb into the lower 50s by this afternoon. A low-pressure system tracking north out of the Great Lakes will strengthen the pressure gradient between the exiting high, allowing for winds to gradually increase through the day, with gusts up to 25mph. Mid and upper level clouds will spread in as the associated cold front with this system approaches. A few sprinkles are possible late overnight towards daybreak, but with a very dry air mass in place, most precipitation will hold off until the daytime hours on Friday. Winds will relax overnight and remain light and variable through the day Friday. As low-level moisture gradually increases upon approach of the front Friday, cloud coverage will increase in the afternoon, with scattered rain showers late in the day as the cold front closes in. Rain showers will then continue overnight Friday, with temperatures falling back into the upper 30s. Surface high pressure over the Great Lakes will begin to build to our west late Friday night, strengthening the pressure gradient and allowing for winds to ramp back up with gusts up to 20 mph.
AVALANCHE ANALYSIS:
I think that this is worth a read about the February 17, 2026, Perry Peak near Frog Lake/Castle Peak avalanche that killed nine skiers and guides northwest of Lake Tahoe.
MW AVALANCHE CENTER
Continue to make slope-specific assessments of surface conditions and use caution in terrain where falls have greater consequences. With warm temperatures, you may be able to trigger small wet snow avalanches underneath your feet in the bright white new snow. On Saturday, cold temperatures will refreeze surfaces, hardening the snow. Due to firm snow underneath softening snow or firm snow surfaces, crampons, an ice axe, and the skills to use them will be necessary each day. Springtime hazards like open holes and undermined snow still exist and may be hidden just beneath the new snow.
MUSICAL NOTES:
I'm playing Trio (myself, Jarrod Taylor and Tim Gilmore) at the Majestic Cafe on Friday from 7-9pm. Then on Saturday Jarrod and I will be at the Front Four Cellars winery in Wolfeboro from 4 until 6. This is for an art opening for the very talented local Wolfeboro painter Sandy Martin.
If you are at all interested in what else is coming up with me musically, you can always see my schedule here: http://www.alhospers.com/?PageName=2
VALLEY CYCLING:
As is so often the case early season, the East Side is in great shape right now. I rode it a few days ago and again today. I'm sure I will be back over there this coming weekend and next week too since the temps will be great.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
