NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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January 22, 2026

Hi Folks,

We're finally in some good shape with the ice and I think that it's most likely sustainable through the rest of the season. That is to say that I would be VERY surprised if we have any weather event that cause us to loose much of what we have at this time. Especially considering how cold the temps are going to be for the coming 10 days or so! It makes me confident that we're going to have a great crop of ice for Ice Fest! WOO WOO

Be sure to carefully read the Obs weather report below. It's going to be VERY cold this weekend, and really through the next 10 daze! Other than today most days will barely make it above 20's and will be in single digits or below 0 overnight. It will be the coldest weather so far this season. Please do take this one seriously!

On a brighter note, Tuesday was my idol George Hurley's 91st birthday. IMO he is someone who has set a very high bar, both from a climbing and human standpoint. I am very grateful that I have known him for the past 30+ years. It's really amazing to think of all the things he and his beloved Jean have seen and done over that period of time. He hates anyone to make anything about birthdays, and I'm not going to pass anything along, but if you want to send a virtual greeting that would be a good thing...

INSTANT ICE REPORT: Since I have a crazy busy day Thursday I headed up to the Notch Wednesday morning to take the pictures and video. The ice conditions are not going to change negatively between Wednesday and Thursday morning... And some weeks ya just gotta do what ya gotta do! [LOL] Enjoy...

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/blackPudding.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/Frankenstein_Amphitheater.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/Frankenstein_RightSide.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/MtWillard.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/MtWillard_climbers.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/LHMW.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/MtWillard_UpperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/CauliflowerGully.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/YellowSlab.jpg
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 21, 2026
Since I have a crazy busy day Thursday I headed up to the Notch Wednesday morning to take the pictures and video. I sincerely doubt that the ice conditions are going to change significantly between Wednesday and Thursday morning peeps... And some weeks ya just gotta do what ya gotta do! [LOL] enjoy...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance been done  
Standard Route GOOD Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

MT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY VALLEY WEATHER:
EXTREME COLD WATCH IN EFFECT FROM 6 PM EST FRIDAY NIGHT THROUGH 11 AM EST SATURDAY

A cold front approaches and passes on Thursday, followed by a secondary cold front on Friday as high pressure builds down behind it for Friday night and into the weekend. Thursday will start with low pressure tracking eastward across Quebec, dragging a cold front towards NH. Ahead of the front, some drier air will work in, which could provide a few breaks in the clouds and a bit of sunshine, but any clearing will be short-lived as clouds thicken and lower in response to the approaching cold front. Snow showers will develop in response to the approaching cold front, and as the front passes this afternoon and evening, a few snow squalls could develop. Squalls could bring periods of heavy snowfall, lowering visibility, and increasing gusts And further south, temperatures rise enough that rain showers could be in the mix this afternoon. Overnight, snow showers taper, then redevelop on Friday as a secondary cold front moves through. Accumulations with both fronts will be light but could be enough to slicken roadways at times. Snow looks to wind down on Friday night as the secondary front shifts offshore.

Winds over the forecast period will remain elevated and gusty as a tight pressure gradient develops on Thursday, then remains in place through Friday before strengthening further Friday night. Temperatures on Thursday morning will rise above normal ahead of the front. But as the cold front passes, cold air moves in. The exact track of the coldest air varies between models and model runs. Numbers currently reflect a more conservative approach, but there is a high probability that temperatures will trend colder. This will be further compounded by the aforementioned winds. When these are factored in, it will feel significantly colder on exposed skin. By the time things bottom out, it will feel closer to 30F below on exposed skin and frostbite developing in 10 minutes or less. As a result, NWS has issued an Extreme Cold Watch from 6 pm EST Friday through 11 am Saturday morning for neighboring notches and valleys.

With this in mind, if you need to head out on Friday night, especially for any extended amount of time, make sure to have someone check for any exposed skin or use a mirror or selfie cam to look for any gaps or holes in clothing, especially around where gear meets, like goggles around balaclavas or jackets with pants or gloves with coats. It is far easier to maintain heat than it is to regenerate it. Bear in mind that cold ambient air temperatures will affect anything with batteries, shortening their available power, possibly affecting their functionality, or possibly not powering items at all. Fuels, like those used with camp stoves, may struggle to operate or fail to operate as their pressurization changes or the fuel starts to gel. Water, even when insulated, can freeze and lead to dehydration. Even foods could be difficult to chew or consume as they harden or freeze. And bear in mind that with each intake and output, you lose heat and increase exposure risks. Motorized vehicles could see batteries affected, and their fuels and fluids could also gel or freeze.

https://mountwashington.org/weather/regional-weather/mount-washington-valley-weather/
https://www.rainwise.net/weather/wdc

MW AVALANCHE CENTER:
MODERATE - You could trigger a small avalanche as new wind-drifted snow accumulates in east-facing terrain above 3000 ft. While less likely today, avalanches could also break deeper in the snowpack. Look for blowing snow and shooting cracks as signs of today’s developing surface problem. Traveling on scoured old snow surfaces reduces your exposure, but still requires snowpack assessment for buried weak layers.

https://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/

MUSICAL NOTES
I'm down in Wolfeboro Thursday night at the Taylor Community. Next week on the 29th I will be at the Wentworth in Jackson with Jarrod Taylor.

If you are at all interested in what else is coming up with me musically, you can always see my schedule here: http://www.alhospers.com/?PageName=2

VALLEY CYCLING:
Had a very fun ride in the hood on Tuesday. Tho it was really pretty cold and breezy, I did all the local trails around here, plus spent a bunch of time doing laps on Echo Lake. I really do love lake riding. This time it was covered with about 1 inch of powder, which was no impediment.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260121/bike.jpg

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The whole life long you can climb on your own border, on your own limits, you can be satisfied all the time. I never want to stop climbing. I can't imagine to stop climbing because it lives in my brain somehow. It exists and it makes me happy.
Arnold, East German "master" climber and alpinist
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