NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:29a on 03/24/18 - Temperature: 30.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 30.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.916 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 58 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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March 22, 2018

Hi Folks,

Well IMNSHO we sure dodged a bullet with this last storm. After 3 biggies in 10 daze, nobody I know was too thrilled with having to deal with the aftermath of another Nor'Easter. Sure, the ski community digs it, but it really doesn't do anything for the climbing other than make it harder to get around.

I got out last Friday with a bunch of friends planning to do Dracula. There were no cars at the Frankenstein lot when we arrived and there 2' of snow on the tracks. George broke trail to the trestle and I broke down to Standard. Sheesh, what a hassle. Dave Karl and I decided to see if we could do Standard Left and George & friends decided to check out Dracula. There was an amazing amount of snow so they decided to follow us and do Standard.

My partner Dave traversed across the snowfield below the middle of Standard to the tree. I followed and then tried to get up to the start of the ice. Unfortunately it was all snow plastered over rock, so I traversed back right and led up the middle of Standard. In retrospect we did some things that really weren't all that smart. The slope we traversed across was a fully loaded snow slope at 45 degrees with close to 3' of powder. Just to get TO the start of Standard middle you're in it. [Can you spell STUPID?]

I set up a belay about 40' from the ledge, brought Dave up and he led up to the ledge and brought me up. Then I led up the right hand pillar, the one that doesn't come in very often. It was steep, aerated and hard! The left side of it was very fragile. Regardless it was fun!

The walk off from Standard was a MAJOR slog. Traversing across the top of Dracula and the other little gully was definitely dicey. We walked across under the Hanging Garden and I continued over to Dracula, past Dropline and Penguin back to our packs while Dave went down to the tracks and then back up. In several places in the woods I felt VERY uncomfortable. Honestly it was foolish. Snow was 3' deep in places and could have let go at any time, even in the woods! Just goes to show how you can get caught up in something and all caution goes to the winds...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 22, 2018
In spite of the crazy swings in the weather this month, including a 70+ degree day or two, there is still some lower elevation ice to be climbed. Not all that much mind you, but there is some. Needless to say you should be careful of the undermining and delaminating that certainly is taking place and be sure to check out at what's above you. But climbs that aren't in direct sun all day or that are huge, like Dracula and Standard Route, still have some life in them. As far as the Ravines, there are options up there as well. That said, I'm not counting on more than another week or so out of this season, at least down here. That's especially true if the prognosticators are right about temps being in the upper 40's+ for much of next week!
Huntington Ravine options  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Of course the regular Thursday ice pix are on and Facebook, but here are some of the other pix.

The past few weeks have been crappy for fat tire riding here in the Valley. The only places decent to ride have been Whittaker Woods, Great Glen and Kingdom Trails - the latter being 90 minutes away. Of course these are all places that groom their trails. Prior to the last storm I was really thinking that we'd be riding in the woods sooner than later, but now I'm not so sure.


Friends of the Ledges is a volunteer organization dedicated to the stewardship of local climbing areas and to preserving the historical tradition of climbing in the eastern White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine. Highlights from the past couple years include replacement of 93 bolts and partnering with the Access Fund on major trail work and the opening of Band M Ledge. Plans for the future include additional trail work at Cathedral Ledge and continued bolt replacement including a couple popular lines on Whitehorse Ledge.

Friends of the Ledges canít continue this work without your support and our early 2018 fundraising goal is $3,000. Please visit our website to learn more and donate:

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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

I'm still tortured by the jackel that drives me to climb. That's why I'm here. It chews on me, insomniac and ulcerous.
Mark Twight
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