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Say it ain't so Joe, PLEASE! It has assuredly been warm this week, now it's very foggy and drizzling. What can I say? It sure feels a lot like it's the end of the 25/26 ice season, at least in the lower elevations. Of course the warm up won't last, but it has been wonderful.
While I'm sure somewhat confident that a few climbs will hang on in the shade here and there, but it is probably time to get high...errr head up the hill into the upper elevations. I was out riding my road bike on Tuesday and noted a half-dozen or so cars parked at Humphrey's on what was truly a glorious sunny day. I was envious, in a way, but the ride up through Crawford Notch in 67 degree temps had a charm of its own.
RIP GEORGE HURLEY:
As I'm sure most of you have heard that master guide and all around great human being, George Hurley passed a week ago (3/5/2026). It makes me very sad to see him go, but he had told me that "...I'm 91 and it's time to go." I hope that I will want to go when it's my time. George had a very full life, and once again takes the leads down a path we will all someday follow.
If you knew him at all, you understood that George was a professed Secular Humanist. As such he espoused their Golden Rule:
"...treating others as you would want to be treated, emphasizing empathy, fairness, and compassion, but without religious dogma. Focusing instead on human reason and shared human needs for dignity and respect. Often phrased as Do unto others as you would have them do unto you." Secular humanists see it as a natural outgrowth of our social nature, promoting kindness and cooperation for mutual survival and flourishing."
- Wikipedia
I suppose in a way, my "...be nice..." provides a similar outlook.
George's brother-in-law Ken Tuomi took on the task of writing a basic obituary, which will appear soon in the Conway Daily Sun. I append it here:
----------------
George Foster Hurley, 91 died on March 5th 2026 at Taylor Community after a short illness.
He is survived by his wife Jean, his brother-in- law Ken Tuomi (Christy Bartlett) along with his many friends locally and beyond. George was truly a legend in the rock climbing community where he worked as a professional guide. He was credited with numerous first ascents of major peaks, climbed internationally and developed new routes well into his late 80’s. Later he took delight in what he called first descents as well. He was still active at 90.
George was a graduate of Antioch College, taught literature at schools in the West, for several years in Uganda & Kenya and ultimately at the University of Colorado. While in Colorado he was a volunteer with Mountain Rescue Service. George met Jean as the subject of one such rescue. On another occasion he nearly lost his life when the rescue helicopter crashed. George and Jean travelled extensively over the years in Europe, Asia, the Middle East, Africa and Central America, often to climb. George and Jean moved to N. Conway in the late 70’s for him to become a full time guide with IMCS and then worked independently.
George was a cc skier, chess player, dancer and avid reader. He was a member of two book clubs and for many years, with Jean hosted his own. In his final days he was in his third reading of Homer’s Odyssey. The Hurley’s enjoyed a simple austere lifestyle; a household full of books, several fat dictionaries, volumes on chess moves, science, art and climbing. They maintained a lifelong resistance to the cyber world. Jean and George could often be found dancing on the sidelines of local concerts. George’s friends will miss the wonderful cakes he always proffered when they visited. George, though a staunch Secular Humanist, loved welcoming young proselytizers at his doorstep with a cookie and lively discussion of the finer points of the Bible. (He taught the Bible as literature at CU).
We will miss his recitations in Middle English of Chaucer, and his renditions of obscure ditties. Most of all we will miss his wonderful sense of humor. At his request there will be no service nor
donations.
Rest in peace George.
Ken Tuomi, brother in-law and author
----------------
I have been recruited with the daunting task of writing an obituary-memorial-overview of George's life for the American Alpine Journal. I'm not sure, but I think it will be in the 2027 edition. I will let people know when it's available on the AAJ site.
RIP my friend
PETZL NOMIC & ERGONOMIC RECALL:
I have an early pair of ERGONOMIC's that I've been very happy with and fortunately they are fine. That said, I do know folks that have the ones that are problematic. So do be sure to check your tools. You most certainly don't want to have a problem. As Petzl says;
"The failure occurs with no warning signs or possibility of prior detection."
Petzl has announced a recall of certain batches of NOMIC (U021AA00) and ERGONOMIC (U022AA00) ice axes due to a risk of breakage at the handle that could cause the climber to fall. The Petzl warning advises climbers to stop using the affected ice axes immediately and contact its customer service department for a handle replacement. Please refer to the English version official recall information for full details. Includes: technical details, products impacted, how to submit a recall and FAQs.
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2026
The past 3 warm days, Tuesday upper 60's in Crawford Notch, has really decimated the ice. Almost everything has come down on Cathedral Ledge, with even the top of Goofers gone! I have been hearing lots of crashing during the day and at night. EVEN tho my house is closed up! The right side of Whitehorse has also sloughed. I was riding my in Crawford Notch Tuesday afternoon and heard big crashes from the Amphitheater. It's going to get cold again, but the climbs that are gone will. likely not form again.
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
possible
Dracula
possible
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
MT WASHINGTON OBSERVATORY VALLEY WEATHER:
This prolonged stretch of well-above normal temperatures will come to an end as a cold front pushes through Thursday morning. High pressure briefly builds in on Friday before another low-pressure system approaches from the Great Lakes in the afternoon.
Scattered rain showers will transition to snow Thursday afternoon as a cold front traverses through the region. Winds will pick up quickly with the passage of the front, with gusts up to 40 mph through the day. Temperatures will fall in the afternoon, reaching the lower 50s early before falling into the mid 30s by late afternoon. Little snow accumulation is expected as showers will taper off this evening, with high pressure over the southeastern US briefly nudging in. Strong northwesterly flow will remain as low-pressure exits to our northeast, with gusts decreasing to 30 mph after midnight. Temperatures will be much cooler than previous nights, with low temperatures falling to around 20 degrees. Skies will begin to clear as the high builds in with Friday morning starting partly sunny. High pressure will crest midday Friday, allowing winds to quickly further drop. Skies above will become increasingly cloudy today as our next weather system begins to approach Friday afternoon, lifting a warm front across the region. Snow showers will spread in late afternoon and continue overnight as the center of the low moves overhead, with a couple inches of snow possible in the valley locations overnight.
MW AVALANCHE CENTER: LOW
Today is not a day without hazards, the most significant of which will be a fall in steep terrain. Firm, refrozen snow surfaces and thin new snow drifts are surfaces that could contribute to falls today. Use mountaineering tools like crampons, an ice axe, and a helmet with mountaineering skills to reduce your chances of a fall today.
MUSICAL NOTES:
I'll be at The Wentworth with guitarist Jarrod Taylor playing some great jazz tunes from 5:30-7:30 on Thursday March 12th. I'd really appreciate it if you would drop by and say hi. Good music, great food, a wonderful atmosphere and Leon makes super drinks.
If you are at all interested in what else is coming up with me musically, you can always see my schedule here: http://www.alhospers.com/?PageName=2
VALLEY CYCLING:
The trails for the fat bike are too soft to ride now so it's time for the road bike! I usually only ride on the road when Bear and Evans Notches are clear but still gated. However it was so nice this week that got out twice. First was a ride down West Side Road on Monday. There weren't very many cars, but the shoulders were covered in sand and asphalt where the DOT had been doing some patching. It really wasn't very nice. Then on Tuesday I took the bike up to the Dry River Campground and rode from there to the top of Crawford Notch. The temperature was mid-60's with a very light warm breeze, quite pleasant. I have forgotten how steep the climb to the top of the Notch is! But it was very fun. There weren't too many cars and the wide shoulder was quite clear. It's been a while since I've let it out coming down that hill and it certainly got my HR up. While I was taking off my helmet and shoes back at the car I heard some big icefall in the amphitheater. [yikes] The ice on the left face of Willard is gone as well. A week ago Cinema looked climbable, but it's all gone now!
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20260312/bike.jpg
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
Climbers seem to forget that we said in our introduction that there were simply '50 classic routes', not 'the 50 classics'. We chose 50 from a list of about 120. Only a torturer will ever pry loose from our lips the names of those other 70 classics...
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
