NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Mt Oscar (SW face) / The Booklet Left (5.6)
Directions:  This route climbs the slab to the left of Mount Oscar Direct, and to the right of the left hand corner.
    Pitch 1: Climb the slab next to a shallow crack. Continue past three parallel cracks to a clean white streak (bolts). At the top of the white streak, head left to a two bolt belay. (100', 5.6)

    Pitch 2: Head left and up a white steak (joining Klettersteig Ridge) to an overlap, then trending up and right to a shared belay with Mount Oscar Direct. (100', 5.6)

    Variation: Climb up a thin, hollow flake on the right to a thin crack at an overlap. Step over the overlap and head up and right, joining Mount Oscar Direct.

    Pitch 3: Climb up and right to the fourth belay on Guides' Route. (5.4, 75')

    Pitch 4: Follow Guides' Route to the top. (100', 4th class)

Gear: Bring a selection of nuts and cams up to .75.
Descent: Rappel the route, or hike up slabs to the top of West Mountain. As you approach the top, look for a trail (marked with cairns) that heads to your right. This trail leads to the trail that you approached on. Follow the road back to the Bethlehem Express Quad.


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