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|Green's Cliff: Rock Routes grouped by Area, sorted by Name|
Description: Green's Cliff is a collection of non-roadside cliffs, visible north of the Kancamagus, in the heart of the White Mountains near Sawyer pond. The very high quality granite walls offer climbing up to three pitches tall on a full variety of features. Especially noteworthy are the classic cracks Greenpeace 12a, Stewart's Crack 5.9+, the wildly steep 357 Crack, currently clean aid 3, slab and face climbs Blurry Eyes 5.10, I'm Still Here 10+ and Strand and Lortie's test piece Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn 12d. The semi-outback nature of the cliffs has limited development in the past, but as of 2011 there are about 25 completed free pitches and half a dozen of aid, with a number of projects being worked on and potential for many more.
The Areas: There are three main areas that have the same approach and then The Meadowbrook Slabs, which is on the same formation, but is approached via a different route.
The Main Wall is the broad cliff in the center, a little over 250 feet tall and a bit over 1/3 mile wide. It is the most developed of the three, with a number of NH classic quality routes. It faces south east, so gets sun early. The approach trail for the area will drop you off at the middle of this cliff
The Western Wing/The Alcove To the left of the Main Wall, past 2 intermediary slabs, is a large expanse of rock up to several hundred feet tall that includes a section known as The Alcove, a large steep cave like area of corners and cracks. Currently, most of the routes here have only been aided and await cleaning and free ascents. The impressive overhanging 357 Crack is found in the Alcove. Currently this area is probably best approached by hiking up and left from the far left side of the Main Wall and then dropping down along the edge of the slab to the Alcove, though in the past people used to hike in from Meadowbrook Slabs.
The Eastern Crags lie to the north east of the Main Wall, nearer Sawyer Pond. There is quite a lot of rock here, but only one known route as of 2011. Premarital Blisters 5.11. There is much potential here, with many crack lines up to two pitches, but being within the Sawyer Pond Scenic Area, new routers should be aware of the restriction on using power tools and camping. Combined with the hike in to the Main Wall, the approach is a bit arduous, best accomplished by dropping down from the fire pit at the Main Cliff than following a semi-trail to the north until you can drop down a steep gully to the crags.
Directions: There are two main ways in to Green's. For both ways a mountain bike is highly recommended and will get you in most of the way and save a great deal of time. The first route entails parking at the start of Rob Brook road, a gated forest road on your left a few miles up Bear Notch rd. from the Kancamagus. You ride in here. At a little over 2.5 miles, just past where The Brunel trail crosses the road and past the right turn that takes you to Owls, the main road makes a sharp bend to the right. Take the first right after this bend, onto a smaller forest road (N44.02270 W71.35855) and stay straight on this as it takes you up along the north slope of Birch Hill and onto a plateau. At the end of this flat section you may see Green's in front of you and the road will start to curve left and down the hill. Very shortly (3.9 miles from the start), on your right, you will see a boulder with a cairn and more cairns leading down an old log skidding trail between two orange chevron signs, marking the point where you ditch your bike and head up the skidder trail on foot. (N44.03062 W71.37988)
You will immediately cross a stream. There is a beaver dam just upstream, so depending on their activity, you may have to work your way around the various outflows, but basically head back looking for more cairns and you will be on the continuation of the old, partially overgrown skidder trail. You now have a 1.3 mile pleasant hike along skidder and climber trails. It should be clear going with cairns and some blue tape showing the way. Along the way you will cross another, smaller stream that is well above the beaver activity and a good source to fill up your water jugs (down stream a little bit are some good spots) The climber's trail breaks up the hill from the skidder trail right after the last stream and drops you off at the middle of the Main Wall at (N44.03579 W71.39961)
The second approach entails parking along the side of the Kanc just west of Passaconaway Campground at a currently bouldered off dirt road into a small logging area (N43.99838 W71.37937), heading back(north) a few hundred yards, doing a shallow river crossing, then continuing riding along straight through Swan's Junction, taking your next left and riding along until you get to the same point where you dump your bikes (this time on your left). The Rob Brook Road way is best when conditions are drier, as Birch hill can get pretty muddy. They are about equal time wise, with the river way slightly shorter in distance. It is about 1 1/2 hours to the cliff, up to a few hours if it is your first time, no bike and with an overloaded pack. The ride out either way is a blast!
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|Lattitude: = 44.0358, Longitude = -71.3996|
|Main Wall||Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn||5.12d|
|Main Wall||Blurry Eyes||5.10|
|Main Wall||Bull Run||5.10c|
|Main Wall||Green Party||5.11|
|Main Wall||Iím Still Here||5.10c|
|Main Wall||Stewart's Crack||5.9|
|Main Wall||The Gift||5.7|
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