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To get to Squaredock: From Fryeburg: follow Rte 5 North for about 20 miles, turn left on rte 5/35 towards Bethel Follow Rt. 5/35 for approx. 3.6 miles (at about 3 miles you will see a clearing with a view of the cliff on left) Turn left on Mosquito Pond Rd. (just after an abandoned red house also on left. sign is missing, look for orange flagging) Go over logging bridge, take left at the "intersection" of dirt roads. Follow road for approx. 1/4 mile to a small clearing / parking area. The approach trail is marked with orange surveyors tape, the trail is near the entry point of the clearing. Follow the climbers trail to the base of the cliff, the hike time is a gentle uphill and takes about 20 minutes. The trail forks near the cliff (marked with two bands of tape), the left fork goes to the "Steep Wall, Big Science area" and the right fork goes to the "Planetarium Wall, and the Critter Wall".
Heading up to the Planetarium Wall, the first climb you will see is a left facing crack corner with a tree about half way up, this is 5.8 trad. Look for a bolted anchor on the right. There may be additional pitches above.
The big wall you will encounter next is the Planetarium Wall. Look for a fixed line across a sometimes wet slab. |
