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Ever notice how stuff seems to happen in clumps?
Everything flows along for quite a while all nice and stable. Then
all of a sudden, WHAM. A whole bunch of things go down that really
make you wonder what the heck is going on with life? Is it all
random, or is there someone just watching and waiting for the right
time, so that they do something that send you a message? And, what
IS that message?
2 weeks ago I go the news that my old friend
Dave Benson had been caught in an avalanche in Colorado. The latest
word is that he
had some pretty serious injuries, not the least of which required
surgery to install rods to stabilize his neck. Then on Tuesday
a friend casually asked if I knew how Malcom Daly, owner of Trango,
was doing. I hadn't heard anything so I was completely blown
away when my he related that Malcom had suffered a massive heart
on Saturday afternoon in Ouray. I immediately called their offices
and confirmed it was true and that while Mal had flatlined in
the ambulance on the way to the hospital, he was successfully defibrillated
and had no brain damage. He apparently had 2 shunts put in at
hospital in Montrose. With any luck he will be back in Boulder
by the end of the week. Needless to say I am rooting strongly
for the recovery of both David and Malcom. They are both good friends
and wonderful people and neither deserves anything like this.
both episodes are from very different causes, they both are the
kind of things in life that are pretty much unpredictable.
One minute two people are totally vibrant, active, and right
- the next they are fighting for their lives. If ever there
was a reason to make sure that you feel ALIVE every day, this is
it. You simply never know what can happen.
3 Accident Weekend:
This weekend was a significant one for accidents. A skier died
in a fall near Mt. Clay, a hiker broke their leg near Split
Rock on the Lion's Head trail and a climber took a leader
Odell's and broke their leg. Sheesh!!! When it rains it pours.
If you have
any information on the accident in Odell's please email me.
I'd like to write this up for the Accidents In North American
Swarm suspected in death of Camelback climber:
The Arizona Republic - Mar. 8, 2004 12:00 AM - Swarming bees
or hornets caused a man to fall to his death Sunday at
Echo Canyon on the north side of Camelback Mountain. The unidentified
his 30s apparently fell at least 50 feet while rock climbing
with another man. The other climber, about the same age,
for about 100 stings. Neither man had been identified late
My buddy Toby and I went up to Huntington Ravine on Wednesday
and climbed Odell's. While I was hoping for a fast round
trip, it took
us almost 9 hours car to car. Some days you just don't
feel fast and light, you feel old and slow! On the hike
clear and the weather beautiful. Unfortunately as soon
as we got to the
fan of the ravine, it clouded up, and of course as soon
as we got back down to the fan, it cleared. Why am I
after all, Mt. Washington.
While there is clearly less
snow than in some years, the ice is quite good. We saw climbers
on North, Damnation
Yale looked very good. There was a ton of ice in Odell's,
tho there were places where it was running water and
of ice over
very mushy ice. We came down the Escape Hatch and there
wasn't as much snow as I have seen in the past. I believe
ice should hang around up there for some time. Here
are a few pictures:
was an interesting carin near the top of the Escape Hatch consisting
of an old wooden
shovel handle sticking
out of a
cairn. Does anyone have any idea
what's up with that? Inquiring minds... Interestingly enough, on
my way back I passed 3 cars parked at the Humphrey's Ledge pullout.
This is that time of year when you
ice and rock in the same day!
El Cap From Above: Hans Florine sent me this link. There are a lot of interesting
images on this site, so you should definitely check it out...
It's been over 7 years since Ed Webster's guidebook was done.
While there have been a couple of select books, they haven't
done much with the new
have gone up in the area. I am in the process of compiling a new guide
of the new routes in the Mt. Washington Valley, up as far a Crawford
Notch. It will
also have any new ice routes that have been put up this winter. I have
through the New Routes book that is kept at International Mountain
Equipment, If you
have done any routes around here that are not in the previous guides
or the New Routes books, please let me know immediately. I'd like to
and want you to get the credit you deserve.
Please send an email with
your description to email@example.com. Be sure to include a complete
pitch-by-pitch description, the length of each,
locations of any
fixed gear, any unusual gear required, the date of the first ascent
involved and if there are any access issues. If it is at a cliff
or area that is new or hard to find, clear directions would be
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2017
I'm getting texts, emails, PM's, even psychic telepathy queries. all asking the same thing... Is there going to be ice tomorrow, Sunday, Monday, in 2 weeks. I'm telling everyone the same thing - I have absolutely no idea. It rained most of the day today, Friday. There is a big rain predicted for Saturday night. Even if it gets colder on Sunday, it's not going to be really cold! Therefore it's a total & complete crap shoot!
Is the season over, probably not completely. There will still be reasonable ice in the upper elevations for weeks. Most likely Standard and Dracula will hold on a bit longer. But Dropline fell down today and I wouldn't go anywhere near the Frankenstein Amphitheater. Honestly, I would be very very cautious climbing anything this weekend.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
From Everest Base Camp, you can walk four hours and you're lounging on grass, drinking beer with trekkers. K2 stands absolutely on its own. The approach is hard. The base camp feels like the moon. The mountain itself looks utterly impregnable, and there's no easy way up the thing. And all this hits you between the eyes when you see it for the first time. It's like that famous Munch painting. You know the one—The Scream? Except, of course, you're the one doing the screaming.