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Cliffs are actually far more ephemeral than we think, even the
ones we know and love right here in the Valley. I used to think
of Whitehorse as being totally stable, only to have that notion
dashed 3 years ago when a large tree ledge right of Mistaken Identity
simply let go after a week of rain and a windy night. For more
proof of the frailty, check out what's over Michael Hartrich's
right shoulder on page 305 of Webster's guide. That's lots of white
down there in those woods!
Over the past 10 years there's been at least 2 major events on
Canon. We expect that kind of thing on Canon. After all it's an "exfoliating
onion." But in reality, all cliffs are works-in-progress,
some just more so than others. Hey, the hike up to the base of
any climb on Cathedral winds its way through huge boulders, not
all of which are the product of the limited amount of quarrying
done many years ago. That's why it's not all that surprising to
hear about a substantial rock fall on a cliff like White's Ledge.
I got an email from an acquaintance, David Warriner, last Sunday.
At White's the day before to do the increasingly popular Endeavor,
he noticed a lot of fresh debris on the ground. The large belay
tree ledge at the top of the second pitch had apparently suffered
a significant "blow out" sometime during the week. IMCS
guide Tom Burt was there at the end of the week and had noticed
the same thing. As he described it, the large pine was still there,
but the roots were now just hanging in mid-air. Interestingly enough
this bears a strong similarity to what happened on Whitehorse.
Both events involved very large trees on ledges. Hmmm... I think
pictures tell the story. Interestingly enough this bears a very
similarity to what happened on Whitehorse, both events involving
large trees on ledges. Hmmm...
Here's a picture of the scene of the crime. The first is
from David, looking down from the left side of first pitch belay
ledge. The second looks
up at the big ledge. You can see the places where the rockfall
hit the cliff. The third is
a closeup of the remains of the right side of the ledge. The last
two pictures were taken this morning when I went up to have a look-see.
I was very surprised by just how much debris there was at the base
cliff, and that apparently none of the routes suffered damage!
A few weeks ago I was driving back down 302 from Vermont. Between
Bethlehem and Twin Mountain there was an opening in the trees
on the right side of the road and I spotted something I'd never
seen before, quite a ways off in the distance. I turned around,
shot a picture with my 400mm telephoto and scoped it out with
the binoculars. When I got back I started sniffing around about
it. What I saw looked to be a very large hill; one side covered
with trees, the other a bare rock face. Several people knew of
this outcropping, and a very few had even been there. In the
old AMC guides it's listed as The Nubble. In the newer guide
and recent topos, it is Haystack
Mountain. Here is a telephoto of
what I saw. According to some there has been some climbing done
on it and there is a small trail that goes out there. It's an
interesting feature that is worthy of some more investigation.
I was very saddened last Thursday afternoon to hear that Boston
area climber Rick Gauthier had unexpectedly passed away. Rick
suffered a bad fall while ice climbing Cave Route at Frankenstein
Cliff several years ago. He had pretty much recovered from those
injuries and was in excellent condition. An avid road cyclist,
he'd clocked over 7,000 miles last year and well into beating
that this year. I'd communicated with him extensively after the
accident and again last winter. At that time he seemed upbeat
and happy. According to a report I received on Wednesday afternoon
Rick had gone out for a ride around 4 PM. That was apparently
the last time he spoke with his wife Dena. When she returned
home around 6 PM she found him slumped over the couch. She attempted
to revive him and the hospital ER kept at it for about 45 minutes
but they never got a pulse. It appears that he only rode for
8.5 miles then came home. Rick had put all of his gear back in
the usual locations (bike, helmet, shoes and cell phone) as usual,
so they suspect that he had a sudden heart attack well after
getting home. That same afternoon there were severe thunderstorms
in the area so he may have cut his ride short because of the
weather. There were no reason to suspect he may have had a medical
problem. Rick was only 43 years old.
You can make a donation in his memory to the Nature Conservancy
(as NEClimbs has) at
The Nature Conservancy
4245 North Fairfax
Arlington, VA 22203
In case there was any question in my mind that this area is growing,
that was laid to rest on Tuesday. I needed some exercise and
only had 2 hours, so I headed the road-bike out 302 towards
Bartlett. When I got there I had a little extra time before I
had to turn around, so I took a right at the light, rode over
the Saco and headed left along the right side of the river. I've
done this before and it's a beautiful quiet ride. For some reason
when I got about 1/2 way to the end of the road I decided to
take the right on the paved road to Stillings Grant. This was
once the Stanton
Slopes ski area in the late 30's.
Well, now it is a 500+ acre
housing development! There are a ton of houses in progress and
many already occupied. I don't know for sure, but I'll bet that
a lot of them are in the $300k+ range. Plenty of growth is happening
in the area in the 7 years I've lived here & it doesn't look
as if it's stopping any time soon. I spoke to a woman who lived
right there in an older farmhouse & she
didn't sound all that happy about how the development is changing
the complexion of the community, not to mention the tax base. Why
am I not surprised?
NEW on NEClimbs:
We've had a lot of people buttonhole us at the crag or email us
asking about how to choose a digital camera. With so many choices
it's hard even for me to make a decision for myself. Over the
past year the market has gone crazy and the prices have dropped
substantially, so I put together an update to an article I wrote
a year ago for the Climbing Magazine Photo Edition on how to
purchase a digital camera. Check
it out. Hopefully you'll find
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 6, 2013
Friday is yet another warm and drizzly day, as were Wednesday and Thursday. Based on Thursday's observations, we did take a hit this week but many things were still hanging tough. At this point, Friday morning, I can't be sure what's going on in the Notches or on Mt Washington. It is supposed to get colder starting Friday night, and that should set things up. However, I am not sure how much things will have been impacted by this warm spell. If you go out looking for ice to climb, be careful as everything is probably suspect now. I am going to mark everything as OUT until we have a day of cold as I don't believe that what is left is safe to climb!
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
I had the unique experience the next day: placing sixteen bolts in a row. It was just blank and there was no way around. But it was a route worth bolting for, and after a time I began to take an almost perverse joy in it, or at least in doing a good job.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.