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If your gut tells you we've been having less snow and more rain
in New England over the past several years, you may be right. According
to a study released last week by the US Geological Survey, snowfall
has decreased significantly in favor of rain over the last 50 years.
The study was published in the American Meteorological Society's
Journal of Climate. It provides evidence that a warming trend is
in progress and could have a significant effect on winter activities
such as ice climbing and skiing.
One of the places with the strongest evidence of this trend is
Millinocket Maine, home to nearby Baxter State Park and Mt. Katahdin.
The study showed an average decrease in the snow-to-precipitation
ratio from 30% in 1949 to 23% in 2000. Anecdotally, the mid-winter
rains we've experienced several times over the last 5-6 years would
seem to corroborate this report.
Cliff Cleanup Day Rescheduled:
The annual Mountain Rescue Cliff Clean Up had to be canceled due
to rain. We have re-scheduled it for next Tuesday August 3rd
at 4:00. Meet at the Cathedral Ledge Kiosk. The party for
those participating will be held at the Nereledge following the
work. My 4 year-old son Daz, who has helped for the last 2 years,
was very disappointed! Hope to see you all next week.
Local Youth On 2004 U.S. Youth National Team:
Zeb Engberg competed in the U.S. Youth National Championships,
July 9-11 at the Pipeworks gym in Sacramento, California. He
won 1st place in the Boys 18-19 division and will be on the U.S.
Youth National Team, representing the U.S. at the World Youth
Championships in Edinburgh, Scotland in September. Zeb is the
son of Boston climber and longtime AMC member Eric Engberg. According
to reports it took super-finals and even super-super-finals to
make the cuts among evenly matched climbers in several categories.
We wish Zeb all the best this fall.
Final Word On The Tour This Year:
The 101st Tour De France is officially over and Lance Armstrong
is the overall winner for an unprecedented 6th consecutive time.
Whatever you think about Lance he was clearly dominating this
year and his performance in the Alps was nothing short of amazing,
as was his effort in the individual timetrial. It was a truly
impressive and highly inspiring event. No wonder sales of road
bikes have increased significantly in the last 5 years! This
was the first year that I've watched every stage and it was a
delightful diversion from politics and the depressing news that
permeates the airwaves these days. The announcers on OLN, with
the exception of Al Trautwig, were exceptional. I even liked
Bob Roll and his outlandish hand motions.
BTW I got Bob's TDF Companion recently and it's great. he has
a real gift for explaining the arcane rules that make up the Tour.
At the same time I picked up his book Bobke II. It's hysterical
and I strongly recommend it to anyone with even a passing interest
in cycling. Bob Roll is the John Long of cycling. OK, OK... it's
now back to rock climbing, already in progress. <grin>
Another Fixed Anchor Ban - from the Access Fund:
A fixed anchor ban is being proposed for the San Bernardino National
Forest (SBNF) as part of the Southern California Land Management
Plan Revision (SCLMPR) process. According to the Forest Service
draft revisions to the SCLMP, “no new fixed anchors for
rock climbing are allowed.” See http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/scfpr/ for
more general information about the SCLMPR. The full SCLMP is
available online for review here.
The proposed ban would affect all climbing areas located in designated
wilderness in the SBNF, including Tahquitz and Suicide. The ban
would prohibit any new routes that require fixed anchors and would
likely preclude replacing old and unsafe fixed anchors, potentially
placing the lives of climbers at risk.
Here is how to submit a comment online. From the above website,
click on small box in upper left corner: “Select a Document:
Part 1, So. Cal. National Forest.”
Click: “Part 2: San Bernardino National Forest Strategy.”
Click: “Land Management Plan Strategy.”
Click: “Next” at top of right page.
Click: “Prospectus” on the left side of page.
Click: “Next” at top of right page.
Click: “Forest Specific Criteria” on the left side of page.
Click: “Next” at top of right page.
Click: “Wilderness Standards” on the left side of page.
Go to bottom of page on right, then click “Next” at bottom of page.
Scroll down page to SBNF 10
Highlight: “SBNF10 No new fixed anchors for rock climbing allowed.”
Go to top of page where the header says: “Click here to comment”
Alternatively, send your hard copy comments to:
Forest Plan Revisions
San Bernardino National Forest
USDA Forest Service
Content Analysis Center
P.O. Box 22777
Salt Lake City, UT 84122
PLEASE TAKE A MOMENT TO SUBMIT YOUR COMMENTS BY AUGUST 11, 2004.
Nine Climbers Scale K2; First Summiteers in 3 Years (Bloomberg):
Nine climbers have reached the summit of K2, becoming the first
mountaineers to scale the peak in three years, according to a
tour organizer. The climbers were among 120 mountaineers aiming
to reach the top of the 8,611-meter (28,253-foot) peak to mark
the 50th anniversary of its conquest.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective December 3, 2013
Was at Frankenstein this morning with IMCS owner Brad White. With temps in the low 40's, needless to say everything was pouring water. We climbed the first pitch of Standard Route on the right side. That was good but the middle had large holes with lots of water pouring out PLUS there was ice coming off the upper fangs. With warm weather in the predictions for the next few days it may be best to not count on lower elevation climbing until it gets cold again. That said, with all the water in the system right now we should be in great shape as soon as the temps do drop.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.