NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:30p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 9.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 9.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.264 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 41 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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July 29, 2004

Hi Folks,

If your gut tells you we've been having less snow and more rain in New England over the past several years, you may be right. According to a study released last week by the US Geological Survey, snowfall has decreased significantly in favor of rain over the last 50 years. The study was published in the American Meteorological Society's Journal of Climate. It provides evidence that a warming trend is in progress and could have a significant effect on winter activities such as ice climbing and skiing.

One of the places with the strongest evidence of this trend is Millinocket Maine, home to nearby Baxter State Park and Mt. Katahdin. The study showed an average decrease in the snow-to-precipitation ratio from 30% in 1949 to 23% in 2000. Anecdotally, the mid-winter rains we've experienced several times over the last 5-6 years would seem to corroborate this report.

Cliff Cleanup Day Rescheduled:
The annual Mountain Rescue Cliff Clean Up had to be canceled due to rain. We have re-scheduled it for next Tuesday August 3rd at 4:00. Meet at the Cathedral Ledge Kiosk. The party for those participating will be held at the Nereledge following the work. My 4 year-old son Daz, who has helped for the last 2 years, was very disappointed! Hope to see you all next week.

Local Youth On 2004 U.S. Youth National Team:
Zeb Engberg competed in the U.S. Youth National Championships, July 9-11 at the Pipeworks gym in Sacramento, California. He won 1st place in the Boys 18-19 division and will be on the U.S. Youth National Team, representing the U.S. at the World Youth Championships in Edinburgh, Scotland in September. Zeb is the son of Boston climber and longtime AMC member Eric Engberg. According to reports it took super-finals and even super-super-finals to make the cuts among evenly matched climbers in several categories. We wish Zeb all the best this fall.

Final Word On The Tour This Year:
The 101st Tour De France is officially over and Lance Armstrong is the overall winner for an unprecedented 6th consecutive time. Whatever you think about Lance he was clearly dominating this year and his performance in the Alps was nothing short of amazing, as was his effort in the individual timetrial. It was a truly impressive and highly inspiring event. No wonder sales of road bikes have increased significantly in the last 5 years! This was the first year that I've watched every stage and it was a delightful diversion from politics and the depressing news that permeates the airwaves these days. The announcers on OLN, with the exception of Al Trautwig, were exceptional. I even liked Bob Roll and his outlandish hand motions.

BTW I got Bob's TDF Companion recently and it's great. he has a real gift for explaining the arcane rules that make up the Tour. At the same time I picked up his book Bobke II. It's hysterical and I strongly recommend it to anyone with even a passing interest in cycling. Bob Roll is the John Long of cycling. OK, OK... it's now back to rock climbing, already in progress. <grin>

Another Fixed Anchor Ban - from the Access Fund:
A fixed anchor ban is being proposed for the San Bernardino National Forest (SBNF) as part of the Southern California Land Management Plan Revision (SCLMPR) process. According to the Forest Service draft revisions to the SCLMP, “no new fixed anchors for rock climbing are allowed.” See for more general information about the SCLMPR. The full SCLMP is available online for review here.

The proposed ban would affect all climbing areas located in designated wilderness in the SBNF, including Tahquitz and Suicide. The ban would prohibit any new routes that require fixed anchors and would likely preclude replacing old and unsafe fixed anchors, potentially placing the lives of climbers at risk.

Here is how to submit a comment online. From the above website, click on small box in upper left corner: “Select a Document: Part 1, So. Cal. National Forest.”
Click: “Part 2: San Bernardino National Forest Strategy.”
Click: “Land Management Plan Strategy.”
Click: “Next” at top of right page.
Click: “Prospectus” on the left side of page.
Click: “Next” at top of right page.
Click: “Forest Specific Criteria” on the left side of page.
Click: “Next” at top of right page.
Click: “Wilderness Standards” on the left side of page.
Go to bottom of page on right, then click “Next” at bottom of page.
Scroll down page to SBNF 10
Highlight: “SBNF10 No new fixed anchors for rock climbing allowed.”
Go to top of page where the header says: “Click here to comment”

Alternatively, send your hard copy comments to:

Southern California
Forest Plan Revisions
San Bernardino National Forest
USDA Forest Service
Content Analysis Center
P.O. Box 22777
Salt Lake City, UT 84122


Nine Climbers Scale K2; First Summiteers in 3 Years (Bloomberg):
Nine climbers have reached the summit of K2, becoming the first mountaineers to scale the peak in three years, according to a tour organizer. The climbers were among 120 mountaineers aiming to reach the top of the 8,611-meter (28,253-foot) peak to mark the 50th anniversary of its conquest.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Writing about climbing is boring. I would rather go climbing.
Chuck Pratt
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