NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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March 24, 2005

Hi Folks,

The weather this week has been a real tease for everyone. You ride down the road and the snowbanks are all brown and look like the ground, but of course they aren't. That said we are starting to get patches of exposed ground where the sun is melting the snow and that's enough to get us all thinking about, what else, ROCK!

Of course the rock season has already started at places like Rumney, if it every stopped! People here are going out to Humphrey's and Sundown trying to grab the sunny pseudo-warm and bug-free days while they can. It is a time when you have to be careful tho. George Hurley and friend were at Humphrey's this week when a large chunk of ice fell off directly above them, fortunately disintegrating in mid-flight. They were lucky. I went over past Whitehorse yesterday and I think it will be a long time before anyone should attempt any climbs on the right or middle. However once we have a few more dry days the South Buttress should be good.

Whatever you do out there just make sure that there isn't some ice lurking in a crack above your head. It's a tricky transition time and maybe one that is better served up on Mt Washington or on a bike. <grin> Hey, I've already gotten in 4 good rides this week.

Oh yeah, one more thing. The Valley didn't get ANY of the snow that hit Southern NH & Massachusetts! Right now it's 44 and sunny. Eat your heart out.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 26, 2026
The '26 ice season has been quite good. Sure there are places where it didn't really happen - Snot Rocket, Machine, etc. But the classics are all in and overall still in great shape. AND we didn't get one of those early-winter warm-up events that put a hard reset on the season. We are scheduled for a bit of a warmup through Sunday, and that should be a good thing. Frankly we need to get some flow happening for a refresh before it gets cold again. And it will. After all, it ain't spring yet!
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


The rules of the game must be constantly updated to keep up with the expanding technology. Otherwise we overkill the classic climbs and delude ourselves into thinking we are better climbers than the pioneers.
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