NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 9:00p on 02/24/17 - Temperature: 40.6 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 40.6 F - Barometric pressure: 29.747 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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January 4, 2007

Hi Folks,

I hope that you all had a very happy and safe New Year. It actually was a cold and somewhat snowy weekend that seemed to portend a new beginning for the winter of 2006/2007. There was some ice in lower elevations, even in Frankenstein, and it was a good weekend for climbing up in Huntington and Tucks. There were even lots of folks out on the slopes and in the area stores. I did a guided hike up Mt. Madison on Saturday via Valley Way and managed a summit in 40+ winds and blowing snow. The general consensus is that there still is a chance to salvage the season.

I'd planned on making it out to Schouler Park in North Conway for the annual festivities. However after numerous glasses of wine over many hands of cards I, wisely, made the decision to stay home. No way do I need to become one of the annual statistics. Besides that I had a couple of really bad blisters on both heels from my Saturday hike and I really wasn't comfortable walking around very much. I haven't had heel blisters in years, but I usually build up to the long hikes in cold weather boots. This was actually my first long hike of the season & I forgot the moleskin. DRAT, I'm still paying for it. Live & learn...

All this has combined to make me think about my New Year's resolutions for 'ought seven. I came up with a bunch, but these are the top 5:

1 - do more stuff with my wife and son
2 - climb more
3 - work out more
4 - take a road trip this summer
5 - put moleskin on the heels in early winter

Hmmm... Not sure yet how 1 and 2 will play out as they sometimes can conflict time-wise. #3 is just a requirement for keeping myself in the shape to be able to do what I want to in life. It's been quite a while since I've done a real road trip with the wife. We used to go off climbing at least twice a year before the kiddo came along. I think it's time to resurrect that part of life. Maybe even with the kiddo in tow now that he can manage a little climbing! Of course #5 isn't so surprising is it? These aren't all that earth shaking, more practical I suppose. How about you? Anything on your life-list that you can tick off in '07?
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 23, 2017
The warmup has really hit us hard everywhere but in the higher elevations. Anywhere in the direct sun is dam close to toast right now. The Amphitheater at Frankenstein is off the radar, or certainly should be. You can probably do the Pegasus rock finish, but that's all. And I would be VERY careful walking under anything over in that area. As of today, Thursday Feb 23, Standard Route still looks OK. I also spotted someone climbing on Waterfall, tho I'm sure that the normally funky top outs are worse. The bottom of Dropline fell down, but Dracula still looks good. I was pleased to see that Willies still looks good. The snow has compacted and I saw what looked to be blue ice. The left side of Willard is basically gone, but Hitchcock, The Cleft, Left Hand Wrench, the far right slab and Elephant Head are still climbable. Other than the Barking Dog and North End I would write off Cathedral Ledge. I know people are going to ask about Repentance, etc and frankly I would caution away from it. In fact anything that is supposed to be attached to rock is suspect. Not to mention the fact that there is a LOT of stuff hanging around above you on Cathedral at this time.
Huntington Ravine good  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route still OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The difference between climbers and normal workers is that climbers are glad of the Mondays, so they can rest.
Guillaume Dargaud
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