NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59p on 01/17/19 - Temperature: 8.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 8.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.265 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 41 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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October 4, 2007

Hi Folks,

So the buzz is all about ice these days. Hard to believe that's the case as we are just in the first week of October, but it's true. People are talking about sharpening ice tools and screws, what are the latest and greatest crampons and boots, and even who will get the first ascent of the Dike this season! And for those so obsessed, Halloween is the magic time. I don't think that anyone managed a full ascent that early last year, but this year may be different, so stay tuned.

A number of people have asked about ice screw sharpening. Last season I sent off 22 of my screws to, a guy in Connecticut who came highly recommended. I couldn't afford to buy a whole new rack of screws so I sent off almost all of them and hoped for the best. Mine are a very eclectic mix of BD, Grivel and Charlet screws. Some were in so-so shape, but some were truly horrible. I was a bit skeptical that some of them could even be salvaged, but I figured it was worth a try so I sent them off. They showed up on my doorstep a little over a week later and I was very pleasantly surprised to see that they looked quite good. Of course the proof was in the use. I did a fair amount of guiding right off the bat last season and they were great. With new screws coming in at around $55 per screw, this is truly a good option. Even my very old BD screws that I use primarily for belays when I go to Canada or up to Willoughby are very reasonable. I still use my slick newish Charlet and Grivel screws for the hard stuff, but all of them a just fine now.

I asked Brian if it was OK to post his name and email address on the site and he said yes, so I'm passing it along.

Brian Dahlstrom

I don't get anything for this, but please let him know that you heard about him in the White Mountain Report.

I'm looking at a new set of tools for this season. It's been 4 years since I went leashless and there are a lot more options now than there were then. I'm not a big mixed route climber so that does narrow things down a bit, but the options are still pretty good. It's going to be fun picking something out and I'll keep you updated on the process.

In the meantime, enjoy the wonderful fall rock climbing. While I do like the spring, this season is the real reason I live up North. Enjoy...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Northwest Mountaineering Journal Released The annual Northwest Mountaineering Journal has been released at It documents mountaineering activity in the Pacific Northwest and features alpine rock climbing, high traverses, glaciers and climate, influential mountaineers, new routes, and first ski descents from April 2006 through March 2007. It's published by an all-volunteer squad in collaboration with the Mountaineers and Highly recommended...

AAC New England Section Fall Gathering:
Saturday, October 20, 2007, 5:00p
Nancy Savickas' Refuge Alpiniste
17 Bridge Street, Albany, NH
(617) 285_0517 (cell)

More details

More About New Routes:
There have been a couple of updates to the new routes on Mt. Webster. Be sure to check out the info on NEClimbs. Apparently there was some confusion between these new routes and some undocumented routes that were climbed some time ago. It would appear that the parties involved have resolved any differences they may have had and everyone hopes that the climbs are enjoyed by all.

Bug Report:
No bugs to speak of... That said, the State has initiated mosquito traps and testing in the Conway area for EEE. Hopefully the results will come back negative, but obviously using some DEET if you are out in the woods or in the evening when the bugs are around would be a smart move. I'll post results as I get more information.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The Puking Gecko, Grand Wall, *** S9 5.12d/e 712m - An intimidating and salacious climb. The final pitch is so exposed, tricky, and continuously strenuous that it is impossible to even contact the rock at any point. Better than making passionate love on top of a Japanese Bullet Train. Superbly magnificent and grimly brilliant.
Andy Cairns
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