NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:00a on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 32.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 32.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.746 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 75 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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January 25, 2008

Hi Folks,

As many of you may have heard, an accident took place on Mt. Washington in Huntington Ravine on Friday, January 18th. Unfortunately it took the the life of Peter Roux, 39, of Bartlett, Tennessee. Roux had gone up to solo Odell Gully that morning and was reported by a close friend as being overdue early that evening. An initial search of the ravine access routes later that evening failed to find him and, due to avalanche danger, search teams did not enter the ravine until around sunrise the next morning. Unfortunately his body was discovered atop avalanche debris at the base of the gully.

I was going to comment on this incident, but based on the thread on the topic in the forum and the well reasoned and detailed analysis of the incident on the Forest Service site (, I have decided to forgo this one. The only comment I have is one of my deepest sympathy to his family and close friends. May he rest in peace...

Thanks to the Forest Service personnel, the MWV Mountain Rescue Service, Androscoggin Valley Search and Rescue, the Appalachian Mountain Club, the Harvard Mountaineering Club and the Mount Washington Observatory for assistance in handling this tragic incident.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

While the ice right now is not as good as it would be if we hadn't gotten the week-long thaw, we're better off than we were last year at this time. Here are some comparison shots from last season and this:

Dracula 1/18/2007
Dracula 1/25/2008
Great Madness 1/18/2007
Great Madness 1/25/2008
Penguin 1/18/2007
Penguin 1/25/2008
Standard Left 1/18/2007
Standard Left 1/25/2008

Here are a few other unusual shots from Thursday. More normal ones are on the full Ice Report page...

Upper Mordor Wall
Texaco Amphitheater
Upper Hitchcock Right
The Way In The Wilderness

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

If I have learned one thing in my 54 years, it is that it is very good for the character to engage in sports which put your life in danger from time to time. It breeds a saneness in dealing with day to day trivialities which probably cannot be got in any other way, and a habit of quick decisions.
Neville Shute
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