NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
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September 4, 2008

Hi Folks,

I hope that all of you had a great Labor Day weekend. The weather up here was absolutely spectacular in every way. In fact it couldn't have been a whole lot better. The surprising thing was that there weren't all that many folks out on the cliffs, on any of the 3 days. I'm not sure where they were, but they weren't up here climbing trad on Cathedral or Whitehorse.

Maybe it was busier at Rumney, but from what I've heard it wasn't packed. Not that I'm complaining, mind you. You certainly could have climbed here and gotten on pretty much anything you wanted to climb at almost any time of the day. Kind of reminds me of the Thanksgiving day that my wife and I went to the Gunks and were able to walk up and climb every single mega-classic we wanted.

When we started climbing here a lot 15 years ago on summer weekends you couldn't find a place to park along the road by Cathedral. Besides the sport climbing craze now there are lots more documented places to climb moderates than there were then. Places like Sundown, Lost Horizon, Lost Ledge, Woodchuck, White's Ledge, Humphrey's and others all serve to help spread out the crowds. And even the Morning Glory and Echo Roof areas at Cathedral and Whitehorse respectively have sucked some of the crowding away from places like the Thin Air face and Standard on Whitehorse.

I suppose that the Routes section on has helped a bit in that regard. It's been quite a few years since the last comprehensive guidebook was published. I guess Webster's guide was released about 11 years ago and certainly the editing of it was done 6 months before. Not surprising that it is missing a lot of stuff.

I've been out climbing at some of the off the beaten track places lately. If you haven't done so I suggest that you do too. You too may find some climbs that you haven't done before that you you may like a lot. And besides, you'll help keep the crowds down.
P.S. After the big hike up into the Ravines with my son Lewis that I wrote about last week he expressed more interest in hiking. So last Thursday we did Mt. Chocorua via the Piper Trail. It's a 9 mile round trip and he acquitted himself very well and really enjoyed the journey - as did I. This weekend we're planning on ticking off Mt. Kersarge, weather permitting. And the beat goes on... [grin]

AMC Indian Summer Gathering September 5-7:
Come camp with us at Campton, New Hampshire, in the western White Mountains. Campton is located near wonderful and varied climbing, including Rumney, Cannon, Echo Crag and Artist's Bluff. For information on camping, Saturday night dinner and price contact Eric Engberg at

A Service of the Boston AMC Mountaineering Committee

Still lots of mosquitoes and biting gnats (blackflies?) in the woods. I got eaten up today at the Morning Glory Wall below the Barber Wall on Cathedral. Bring the bug dope with you unless you are in the breeze. Haven't seen much in the way of ticks, but I'm sure they are out there. Some animal cases if EEE have been found in the southern part of the state, so bug spray may be a smart move in any case.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Frostbite ? I consider that a failure.
Marc Twight
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