NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:00p on 02/25/18 - Temperature: 26.3 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 26.3 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.142 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 82 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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February 19, 2009

Hi Folks,

Not too much to say this week as the family & I are out here in Southern California for the New Hampshire school vacation week. It's been cold back home and temps here have been a bit cool for this time of year as well. And on top of that there has been a lot of rain. Higher elevations have been getting a lot of snow as well. I rode the bike up Mt. Palomar on Wednesday and there was a lot of snow up there. Of course it's above 5,000 feet so it's not all that surprising. We were planning on heading to J Tree for a couple of days, but as this is a family vacation, that didn't happen. Leggoland, Universal Studio, Disney, Sea World and other things took priority! [sigh] Well maybe next time. At least I got in some riding, a few hours here & there.

I did ride up the bike up through the Topanga Canyon area one afternoon and was impressed with the amount of what looked like climbable rock all over the place, especially on Old Topanga Road. I didn't see any indications that it was being climbed and asked some folks who live in the area to see if anyone knew if people climbed there. No one seemed to have heard anything. If not then it may be worth checking out IF there is access. The same was true in the valleys and canyons surrounding Mt. Palomar. I saw a ton of places that looked to have potential for climbing. And there were myriad boulders that looked just like what I have seen of the Buttermilks. I took a quick look on the web but couldn't see any info about climbing in the area so I think there is a ton of possibilities there to put up stuff.

While the weather is nice here, 75 today in fact, I can't wait to be back home. It's been a nice break but I do miss New Hampshire & the Whites, especially this time of year. And there is nothing quite like that late February - early March ice! It's time for some runs up to Huntington with the long days.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 22, 2018
The ice took a YUGE hit over the past couple of daze. Not just in the lower elevations, but everywhere. It's pretty clear that winter isn't over, and March is often our snowiest month. So let's just muddle through this next couple of days and see what next week brings us. Many of the trade routes in Crawford Notch are in poor shape right now and need at least a couple of days and nights of cold temps to firm things up again. Still, there are some climbs to be done like Standard Route and Dracula, and even the North End of Cathedral has hung on. HOWEVER you really need to beware of what's above you now. There are hangers everywhere that will be coming down as soon as the sun comes out! I would stay away from everything left of Thresher on Cathedral, all the way to Goofers. And right now the Amphitheater at Frankenstein looks poor, most especially Chia with all those daggers. Keep your fingers crossed for come chill-down next week folks.
Huntington Ravine UNKNOWN but likely OK  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK Click to see route picture.
Dracula OK middle & right Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Winter alpinism is hard enough without the added dilemma of free-climbing ethics.
Barry Blanchard
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