NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:29a on 01/18/19 - Temperature: 7.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 7.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.182 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 56 %
IceCON 5. Superb New England ice climbing. Even many of the climbs that form rarely are IN.
5 out of a possible 5
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December 10, 2009

Hi Folks,

Hard to believe that last Friday my friend Jeff and I were happily climbing Pathfinder on Whitehorse in light fleeces under a warm sun. Since then we've made the turn to winter in a big way. Snow last weekend and again yesterday (Wednesday) put us squarely into the season, and it's none too soon. It was just getting to be a bit too weird with my grass still green and the Day Lilies poking their heads back up in my flower beds. Friday's climb was a fitting finish to a great rock season for me. A lot of late-season climbing has left me feeling pretty tuned up mentally for the upcoming ice season. Usually there is an in-between period where you can't climb rock and there isn't any ice. This year it was like someone flipped the switch and we went from late fall to full-on winter.

There is a big ski sale/swap held in town every year and it's where we get skis for my rapidly growing son Lewis. This year we got the usual downhill stuff as well as a cross-country setup. After the snow we got on Saturday we headed up above Crawford Notch to to Zealand. Snow coverage was pretty full up there and we did the Pine Tree Loop trail. This is a wonderful loop trail that starts right uphill from the gate. While there was a significant amount of blow-down yet it was passable and the views from the upper ridge across toward Mt. Oscar were fantastic. It was a perfect introduction to cross-country for him and he really enjoyed it. This will likely take the place of our Sunday hikes, until I can convince him to try ice climbing. [grin]

On Tuesday Brad White (IMCS) and I made our early season sortie up into Tucks for an ice tune-up. We usually do this the weekend after Thanksgiving, but we had to postpone it due to poor weather. The trail was almost fully covered with snow, making for a very enjoyable hike. I really hate that trail before it's gets covered because of the icy rocks making for treacherous conditions. In addition this year we both had the new Kahtoola Micro Spikes traction devices. If you haven't seen them you really should check them out. We put them on at the start of the hike and only took them off to actually climb. No matter how much ice was on the ground we just walked right on it with absolutely no slippage.

We saw a nobody on the trail but came across a number of folks up in the bowl; two skiers, a hiker who said he'd been camping in the lean-tos for 9 days (!) and a female climber who Brad knew. There was quite a lot of snow in the bowl and it totally obscured the lower part of the Book. Normally I'll climb right up the middle of the Book, but this year we couldn't see the shield and opted to do the left side instead. We also hoofed over to the big slab below the upper headwall and had some fun on that as well. There were some big pillows of snow in several places and visibility was limited so we only climbed where we felt comfortable. Still it was great just to get out and swing tools, kick crampons and generally check out our gear in preparation for the start of the season.

The hike back down to Pinkham was a breeze with the Micro Spikes. 90 minutes from the Bowl that included a 10 minute pause at Hoo Jo's for a snack and drink. I'm bringing the Spikes with me for all of these kinds of outings. Here's some pix of what we saw in the Bowl:

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I drove up into Crawford Notch this morning. Frankenstein isn't happening at all at this time. I suppose you could scratch your way up P1 of Standard Route, but that's about it. That said things are forming and it will only take 3-4 days of consistent cold temps to yield some interesting ice. The top of the notch is just a bit better. Elephant Head is coming along, the Trestle Cut is climbable and Gully #1 actually looks interesting. Check the online ice report for pix.

All we need is for things to stay cold and the ice will be here quickly. Stay tuned for more updates as we get into next week. I'm hoping for Standard Route at Frankenstein on Monday or Tuesday! Keep your fingers crossed...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 17, 2019
I raised the IceCON rating to a 5 today. It's unusual to get a 5 rating this early in the season, but this one has certainly been special. All the climbs in the Amphitheater are IN, as is pretty much everything else at Frankenstein. It's really pretty impressive just how much ice there is out there right now, in spite of how sunny it is. Just goes to show what snow and cold will do for things. That said, we have a VERY BIG round of snow coming in on Saturday evening through early Monday. Predictions are for 2 feet, but if we even get half that it's a big deal. If you're planning on climbing on Sunday just be aware of what that much snow means and please drive safe on the way home.
Huntington Ravine options, but beware snow  
Repentance IN - P2 start tricky Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN - top pitch is much better Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

When I cross-country skied down the tracks in Crawford Notch this morning I got to the base of Hitchcock and was surprised to see this:

Graves ?

I hadn't heard about anything happening there since last winter. Anyone with any info please shoot me an email. I'm very interested as to what this is about.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The rules of the game must be constantly updated to keep up with the expanding technology. Otherwise we overkill the classic climbs and delude ourselves into thinking we are better climbers than the pioneers.
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