NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:58p on 04/15/14 - Temperature: 70.6 F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 70.6 F - Barometric pressure: 28.908 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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January 21, 2010

Hi Folks,

I love adventures. Sometimes I'm sitting at home and all of a sudden I just have to get up and do something. In the summer that usually means going for a long bike ride, usually over Hurricane Mountain Road or up into one of the Notches. In the winter it means heading up into Crawford Notch to go climb something. This Saturday I got up late after playing music the night before and was chomping at the bit to get outside, so I gathered up my stuff and headed up to Crawford Notch.

I rode by Frankenstein thinking of Standard or Walk In The Forest, but it looked totally full of people. I thought about Shoestring but there were already 4 cars at the pulloff, so I kept going. I wanted something more than Willies, so I passed that up as well. As I rolled by Willard I could see a couple of parties on Cinema, but I figured that they would be way up before I got there. The lot at the top of the Notch was totally full so I had to park on the road. Man it was a busy day!

I suited up and walked down the tracks. Other than a party on Elephant Head I didn't see anybody else, tho there were a lot of tracks. Rounding the corner I saw that there were 2 parties on Cinema. One down low at the first belay and another up at the large ice bulge. At the base of the climb there was a large pile of slough avalanche debris, obviously from that morning. I wasn't surprised since it was so sunny and warm. It was almost noon and I'll bet it was close to 40. When it gets that warm all the snow in the upper face comes off and causes slough avalanches on the lower face. I've seen it happen before and was fortunate one day for it to not have brought me down.

I headed up the first section and quickly got to the party at the first ice bulge. It was local guide Kevin Mahoney and his client. They were planning on rapping because the client was having equipment problems. His whole boot had blown out! There was even plastic in the snow on the climb. I expressed my condolences and continued on up, being careful not to knock off anything on top of them. At the upper bulge I passed the belayer. He and his partner were a couple of nice guys from NY. They asked me for beta on the climb and I told them how to get across to Upper Hitchcock.

It was great that the trail was beat out all the way across to Upper Hitchcock for a change. As I came across the open snowfield I noticed an interesting ice formation that was right above the start to Upper Hitchcock. Interesting... When I got over there I saw my friend Bob Ahern & his partner Steve.There was already another party up in the upper section and as Bob and I were jawing another party of 3 came up. This seemed a bit much so I decided to rap off. I walked over to the belay tree and chatted with 3 very nice guys from Connecticut. They were kind enough to let me rap with them and I pulled the rope for them in gratitude. [grin]

It was still early and I wasn't tired enough so I walked around and climbed back up via the Left Hand Monkey Wrench. Strangely enough I'd never been up that so it was good fun and it's in great shape. I wandered up the little trail back toward Upper Hitchcock to see if everyone was done, but of course they weren't. The 2 guys I met from NY were on the east face slab right and it looked pretty good. As I was considering it a couple of other folks came up who had just done the Cleft. They said it was in fat conditions. I considered doing that, but they said there was no trail beat out from the top so I decided to follow the NY guys up the right face.

The ice was big and fat and a little crusty in places, probably solid 3 and really good. At the top there was no path connecting the top of the ice to Upper Hitchcock so I had to wallow up on my own. Only 50' but it was chest deep and a real slog. There were 2 nice guys from Manchester at the upper belay bringing up their 3rd. We chatted for a minute and I kept on going up the top of the little ice gully. the trail at the top looked well packed and I followed it to the main Willard trail. I appreciate whoever banged out that track, butit sure did wander around in the woods a lot. The hike down was great as usual and surprisingly I didn't see a soul all the way down. I must say that I was very happy to get back to the car. Car to car r/t had been about 4 1/2 hours of nonstop fun. It could not have been a better day...

The next day, Sunday, my son and I went up to XC Ski on the Zealand Road. On the way by I glanced at Cinema and counted a dozen climbers on it in various positions, picture below. Sure glad I climbed on Saturday...

Here's a few pix-

avalanche debris on Cinema
hanger over Upper Hitchcock
face left of LH Monkey Wrench
Left Hand MonkeyWrench
East Face right
busy Cinema on Sunday

IMPORTANT NOTE - the Monday prediction from the Observatory is calling for possible rain. If you want to get the best ice, get out there THIS weekend. Don't wait...as it's not clear what's going to happen over the coming week!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 12, 2014
As far as I am concerned the ice in the lower elevations is finished and all that's left for this year is up on Mt Washington. I am officially considering this year's ice season concluded for all practical purposes and this will be the last Ice report for this season. While there looks to be some ice in the pictures, trust me that in general it is not worth the effort and in many cases would be very dangerous to attempt to climb!
Huntington Ravine many options - beware of avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Here are some pictures in addition to the ones posted in the Ice Report section of NEClimbs. They are in alpha-order for my convenience...

Angel Cakes
Coffin
Diagonal
Last Exit
Mt. Washington
Shoestring
2 climbers on Shoestring
Snot Rocket

COMING SOON - 2010 Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest - February 5, 6, 7:
Apres Climb Hour @ IME: Fri & Sat from 4-5:30pm Friday Night: Steve House multimedia show and the 2nd Annual Face Off Comp featuring MC Freddie. Saturday Night: Climbers Party and Amateur Photo Contest Winner announced! Guest Athletes & Guides Include: Steve House, Kevin Mahoney, Mark Synnott, Janet Bergman, Majka Burhardt, Emilie Drinkwater, Freddie Wilkinson, Peter Doucette, The IMCS Guides, and more!

For more details on clinics click here

In House at Ryles Jazz Club in Cambridge MA:
The In House jazz jam band is playing at Ryles in Inman Square in Cambridge on Friday, February 5th. This is a world class band featuring acclaimed guitarist Randy Roos. If you are looking for a great evening of music, food and drink join us at Ryles. $10 cover charge and free parking. Wonder what it sounds like? Check out these YouTube videos of the band from the last time we were at Ryles:

video 1
video 2
video 3

Hope to see you there...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Personally, I would rather climb in the high mountains. I have always abhorred the tremendous heat, the dirt-filled cracks, the ant-covered foul-smelling trees and bushes which cover the cliffs, the filth and noise of Camp 4 (the climbers' campground), and worst of all, the multitudes of tourists which abound during the weekends and summer months.
Yvon Chouinard
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